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araitim

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About araitim

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    TT Bronze Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Michigan
  • Interests
    Fly fishing, assisting my kids excell in life, motocross/supermoto/trail riding

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  1. araitim

    dual caliper bracket E

    It has quite a bit of power for how light the bikes are. The sportbike stunters use dubble, even triple and even quad 4-6 piston calipers with a 320mm rotor. The 650r caliper comes with a mounting locations to build a bracket too. That oem mount allows the caliper to float as it should.
  2. araitim

    dual caliper bracket E

    Yes, the master cylinder is on the left under the clutch lever. Bumtarder, thank you
  3. araitim

    dual caliper bracket E

    Using my common garage tools I made a dual caliper bracket for my E. Many of you may already know, the E/S swimgarm is different than the SM and no one makes a dual caliper bracket for it(50stunt makes one for the SM). My band saw blade was too dull yo cut the aluminum so I used the drill press and drilled many perimeter holes then used a jig saw to cut it out. To machine the oem bracket, I used my drill press, locked the handle, clamped it in a harbor freight milling vise (~$30) and went at it with a random cutting bit I had laying around. To attach the 2 pieces together I did a face to face LTAB(low temp aluminum brazing ~900°), then LTAB the entire perrimiter followed by drilling and tapping 1 bolt(for good measure). The caliper is a front right 2 piston caliper off of a Kawasaki ninja 650r(~$40 on ebay). The whole set up has been on the bike for a month or so and works fantastic. I also swapped out the rear master cylinder woth a crf450 unit. It has a smaller piston. The smaller piston gives more pedal movement and a tad more feel imo(not as big as the hype i have read). Thanks for reading
  4. araitim

    BB Stroker build, info needed!

    I'm not sure if you received the answer yoy are liking for about Web cams but in addition to the very good responses the Web allow the for more air flow. As mentioned people like to use things intended for their intended purpose, hot cams were not intended for a big bore and stroker. Web cams were. More air In, more air out and the amount that of overlap are the reason for Web cams. Im not sure if overlap plays a roll in the ice cube cylinder since it has an O-ring deck but on a normal cylinder that is punched out the distance from cylinder to water jacket in relation to the head gasket, hot cams and other mild cams have been known to blow head gaskets due to the amount of overlap of the cams(as told to me by Eddie and Web). There is scavenging that is cut short in the stroke and added suction is what is known to ruin head gaskets (again, as told to me by Eddie and Web).
  5. araitim

    BB Stroker build, info needed!

    I was recommending against the hot cams for the big bore stroker. Web cams would be far superior. It seems you are well on your way to a remarkable bike. Keep us informed
  6. araitim

    BB Stroker build, info needed!

    When I talked to Web cams, they were the ones to strongly suggest switching Springs, then I noticed it on their page next to the individual cam descriptions (I felt like an idiot since I didn't notice it). The futrure plan was to switch to big web cams and since i was in there it was easy to switch then also, i have read (and was told on a phone conversation with HC, but it was a young guy and he said some other stuff that didn't add up in regards to other questions) that the OSHC arent available anymore due to spring bind and even though HC reccomended switching with those grinds people didnt and a big issue came of it. The machine work, albeit very minimal, would be for the wide ratio gears.
  7. araitim

    BB Stroker build, info needed!

    Wide ratio doesn't include 1st gears so you will be keeping it whether you wanted to or not. I would definitely do new 1pc valves even if those look ok. For bore and stroke, i ahvr always been told to not go over +4 for the stroke and +4 for the bore. Those are said to be the limit, bigger than that your reliability go's down. That isn't personal experience, just what I have been to and what I have read. Sounds like you might have the hot cams hypnosis, those aren't ideal for what you are building. Go with Web cams like the gentleman above said. Also, since ice cube lowered their prices on would DEFINITLY look into their bore and stroke kit. Billet jugs with cylinder wall coating used in F1 cars, supposed to be superior. I would (and have done) a wide ratio. It is not uncommon (in experienced this) for a 470 bored and stroked drz to bust 4th and/or 5th. The wide ratio are made of stronger material. I am very happy with mine. So, let's brake this down. Ice cube 485cc kit - $1200 Web cams- $500 Fcr41mx - $600 1pc valves- ~$100 High lift valve springs (you will need these of you go with big cams)~$140 Wide ratio- $600 MRD Zpro- ~$500 Someone that will do all the work and machine the case- $????? I have a hotrod +4 crank and a je piston 94mm big bore. Fcr41mx (my old fcr39 wasn't doing it for me), wide ratio trans gears, mrd exhaust, old school hot cams(the biggest hot cams ever made for the Z and arent available anymore would like to go bigger but found a crazy deal on these for the time being), 1pc wiesco valves, port n polished head, race valve Springs to accept the cams. The bike is my daily driver. It is on the expressway at about 6000 rpm doing 80mph using 15/44 sprockets. It has a ton of grunt and humbles many of the 450 people almost daily. http://www.maxrpms.com/drz-ltz-kfx-dvx-485-ice-cube-big-borestroker/
  8. araitim

    Hesitation at speed

    It's a new stator but I did just test it. Battery is a ballistic lithium and good on voltage. The stator is putting out a steady 15-15.4 volts per trail tech voyager and verified with my fluke meeter
  9. araitim

    Hesitation at speed

    I always run premium 92 or better. I usually stick to a certain gas station because they have individual hoses for each grade gas. I'm running in the 13.?:1 compression. Was a 13.5:1 bug bore with single layer gasket. It's stroked now with a 3 tayer. I'm told it is still close to that figure.
  10. araitim

    Hesitation at speed

    So, after talking to many mechanics, asking forums and a bit of research comparing other big bore bikes I ended up swapping the spark plug and going to a 50 pilot. It has only been a couple days but I have not noticed the "hiccup's" that I was experiencing. I was told that, since I have increased displacement and raised compression, I might be experiencing detonation. Looks at what other bikes with similar displacement and compression (mainly ktm's and the yamaha's)and I was seeing many run a cr9 as opposed to the suggested cr8. I have also read that the yzf450 people recomend switching to the 9 if you have done any mods. As for now, this has helped and I'm tired of messing with it. We will see how it is after a week or so.
  11. araitim

    Drz bucking and staling

    What was the fix for the buck if at 500-6000rpm? Mine is doing the same now. I can sit and Rev the engine to between 500-6000 and it will rev then pop and Rev and pop continuously. This is only while holding it at that specific range of rpm. Nothing has changed recently and has been running fine. Was thinking either jetting or air filter but more likely I predict the ignition pick up or ignition
  12. araitim

    Hesitation at speed

    What did/do you do to fix the stumble between 4700-5100, needle adjust, different main, something else, or just live with it? I get a single chug/hiccup while holding a steady speed in any gear. It only does it 1 time. So, if I were to accelerate to 3rd gear then hold 3rd at a steady speed above 5000, after a min the bike will pop/chig/hiccup 1 time. Happens in any gear. I'm reasonably confident it's jetting.
  13. araitim

    braking pads

    I actually read your whole post. We have the same Braking 4 piston caliper and I use the 784cm55 sintered as recomend by my local track parts store
  14. araitim

    hydraulic clutch conversion

    If you type in. "RSC" or "RSC clutch" into the search engine you will find a massive following. That following is for a reason, they really are that nice. They are catching on in the various race community's too. You won't be disappointed. They may even have a "if you don't like it then we refund" policy, I don't know for sure. They do have a "if you are unhappy with the lever length within the first couple rides and there is no wear on it will swap it out for a different length" policy, this is do know for sure.
  15. araitim

    hydraulic clutch conversion

    If you are looking for easier pull then an RSC ez pull clutch lever might be the ticket for you. They are bigger in the stunt world and have true single finger ease and are butter smooth with the bearing pivot. They are made here in the USA by a small shop and are solid billet aluminum and carry a life time warranty no questions asked to whoever owns the lever at any point and they stand behind that. I have a magura sitting in my parts bin that I ended up having issues bleeding and switched to the RSC. I prefer the RSC. http://www.righteousstuntmetal.com/international/levers.html
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