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About CurtisA

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  1. I've heard organic pads don't create as much heat as sintered and in a long race won't suffer from fade or brake fluid boiling. Is that true? Which pads are least likely to over-heat?
  2. Often I initiate turns by weigting the pegs, especially in tight single track. On the MX course if I want to turn right, I push forward on the right handle bar, for an instant and this makes the bike slightly lean/dip to the right where it is then very easy to carve a turn. You can push the bar and weight the pegs at the same time. . . like Gary said, once in the turn I do not continue counter steering unless I'm power sliding the rear-end around. When you push on the bars the slight change in front wheel direction causes centrifigal force to lean the bike the opposite direction that the "push" has turned the wheel into. Pushing on the right bar turns the front wheel left and the force then dips the bike right. Once the bike is leaned, the centrifical force is sort of your friend pushing the tires into the ground.
  3. The WR would be a fun play bike, but if you end up liking to race, it won't last long. KTM's are great, but so are the Gassers. Of the 3 bikes you mentioned I'd recommend the EC 250. A YZ 250 with a few minor mods is also a popular trail/HS race bike and usually sell for a lot less than a KTM.
  4. Yeah, too tall for the KDX frame. The KTM is great, but as a ST woods machine, the smaller wheel base of the KDX is noticeably better than a KTM. For other types of riding the KTM is better.
  5. There was an article in "Dirt Rider" magazine about Service Honda's KDX 200. They really liked the bike but thought the motor could use a little more torque. Its a great motor and a fun bike, but in stock form it doesn't have umpf of a KTM 200 . If you go to the KDXRider.Net Site, you'll see how to get that most out of a KDX.
  6. Had them both and the KDX 200 is a better woods bike. Service Honda puts a KDX 200 into a 2012 Kx 250f frame and for $12K it is the ultimate small bore woods machine. Pricey though.
  7. Don't guzzle water leading into your race, just sip some so as not to screw up the electrolyte balance. I like using Hammer Nutrition's electrolyte mixes, it definitely keeps me from cramping. I suspect any of the race fuels out there are good as well. I wouldn't try to win the race on the first lap and think about seeing all those good lines you missed during the first lap and try to hit them on succesive laps. I do a lot of HS's and have a ton of advice . . . for your first one, stay focused and don't worry about results.
  8. Yeah, I don't care how big your arm msucles are, you can't stop head shake with muscles, but staying in shape really helps you ride faster and longer.
  9. Thanks for the responses! In order to drag on a right-hander, your foot has to stay on the peg and I'm thinking about an auto-clucth with a rear hand brake. Hand brake also have way better feel than brake pedals . .. . I know the purist out there hate auto-clutches, but I'm heading in that direction. In any case I get tired of the same old posts and wanted to hear about more advanced riding techniques.
  10. If you increase the rear sag you will effectively increase the trail and that should help with the head shake. In general head shake is caused by the front forks "packing" because the rebound is too slow and/or the "trail" was designed for quick turning, which equals high speed instability. Find a section that gives you head shake and then turn the rebound clickers counter clockwise, 2 clicks each time/run, and see if the stability gets better. You will need the proper fork springs in order to achieve the proper rebound rate. If you run out of rebound adjustment, your springs are too light. Slowing the compression rate will also help, but it will also stiffen the front end. The risk with speeding up the rebound is at some point the front end will "push" in the turns or climb out of rutted turns. If this happens, you need to loosen the bolts on the triple clamp and raise the front end (push the forks down). Go back and slow the rebound until she turns properly. Raising the front end will increase the "trail" and stability (similar to increasing sag which lowers the rear-end). This will of course slow the turning, but that's exactly what KTM did on many of their newer bikes, including my 2011 KTM 250 SX. 1. Your overall suspension needs to be close. 2. Get proper fork springs 3. Speed up the fork rebound 4. Raise the front end in the triple clamps 5. Steering stabilizers help, but get the suspension as good as possible first
  11. How many of you guys are dragging your brakes through the turn and never completely rolling off the throttle? Predominantly the rear brake to get the suspension/bike well planted, but also the front. Most guys come into a turn by rolling off the throttle, which raises the rear and immediatley pushes the front end. Coming into the turn that way realy helps with braking bumps and I find coming out of the turn, dragging my brake(s), allows me to control how the bike accelerates, especially when its muddy. Dragging and gassing through the turn keeps the slack out of the chain and keeps the bike from whipping around on an agressive exit. Its probably more of an MX technique, but I find it works well in many situations. Some guys feather the clutch to control the power to the rear wheel, but that doesn't settle the bike nicely throughh the turn the way the brakes do.
  12. Is it bogging? Sounds like the bike is running too lean. Try turning in the air screw on the carb.
  13. The rear shock preload is important and could be the culprit. Try locking your knees straight just before you leave the lip and your bike will fly level/flat.
  14. Auto clutch can't be beat. Sure you can hit the e-button, but its even better if you get just past TDC, twist the throttle about 1/3 open, 2nd gear and when the gun goes off, kick and hang on tight. You'll be lunging before EVERYONE. Oh yeah, get a two-stroke, because Thumpers can't start with the throttle cracked open and they never win Hole Shots in HS.
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