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About Bedunjgi

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  1. Yea, I like mine to disengage when I am off the throttle so there’s not much pipe bang & engine braking. Helps backing up as well. It still drags a bit & there isn’t any delay. I am still getting used to it since I recently upgraded from the 3.0 to the Torq Drive fibers, steels, liners & new disk. I am running medium wedges, 6 gold engagement springs & red & blue PP springs. Last ride I had some bad chatter in first on steep technical hills with fresh old formula Rotella 15w40. I am going to try some Type F ATF.
  2. Just an idea but if the nut will fit on the last few threads properly & there is still plenty of shaft left, why not machine the remaining damaged area & rethread to a smaller size & put a second nut on?
  3. Could you share how you wired it? Ideally, I would like to have battery power when the motor is off so will not be using the timed relay (Yellow/Red wire?). I have already fabricated a bypass for the diodes so that the battery will be in the DC circuit & I will remove the small running light bulb & use the headlight switch for off, low, high.
  4. Has anyone installed the Trailtech DC conversion on an XT?
  5. I have one ride with the 120 Shinko 505 Cheater & so far I am impressed, especially for the price. Its a big tire but that just means that I can ride with near 0 PSI & Tubliss without rim damage. I am coming off the Shinko 520 Series Intermediate/Hard Terrain 120/100 which is a more stout with four ply but harder compound (I think the 505 is three ply). The 520 could be run at 0 PSI all day with Tubliss but had a hard compound & the side knobs started tearing off long before the treads were worn. Old tire? Not a good tire for low PSI? But there is something to be said about a four ply tire at 0 PSI & Tubliss, even with hard compound. You could have a puncture & not even know about it & the contact patch is yuge!
  7. Oops
  8. Once they runaway they are usually dieseling & the spark plug etc is acting like a glow-plug so pulling the wire doesnt help. Thats why the killswitch doesnt work.
  9. Toolman, Ohio is right. Don't drive yourself nuts (I speak from experience). You can make it better but you will be chasing your tail & mostly just be moving that spot up & down the RPM range. Trying to eliminate the "Pipe Bang" on deceleration can also drive a sane man mad. Four stroking at low throttle position on a flat surface @ steady throttle is what you want. Under load & in the trails is where you want to test this type of machine. The reason that I posted my comments & the article that Hawaiidirtrider & I have been discussing is because I am interested to see if the round top piston improves the issue. From Betas announcement; "Domed piston and new cylinder head profile: together with the new cylinder, these increase engine performance and improve running at low revs."
  10. That article is relevant because Beta has switched the Xtrainer for 2018 from a 300 flat top to a dome top piston & I was looking into the differences. I posted it as well as "A Few Thoughts" because I was wondering why they switched & if it is going to help some issues off idle that some have had. Its really not a big deal & some of it is just normal two stroke behavior. I have had the issues with the stock carb, with JD jetting & Lectron but have it running the best I can & love the bike. I rode George Ferges bike for a long time one day when Lester had it & we switched bikes. It had the off idle sputter & compression braking pipe bang which is when I realized that it is the nature of the bike & didn't spend as much time trying to figure it out. I ride with Reggie who has a 2015 250RR & it is smoother & has a domed piston. I probably know Neil, Kevin C, and Fred C by face but I don't think I know them by name. Do they all own Xtrainers? I haven't communicated with Joe for a long time. Most of the info I get about the Xtrainer is on here & other forums.
  11. Flat-Top VS Higher Crowned Pistons (Note: These views were formulated with input from other people in the 2-stroke field) The piston is subject to more abuse then any other part of the 2 sroke engine. It is constantly being pushed on, sucked on, fired on, squeezed on.... well, you get my point. - It is the weakest link in the engine. - Over the last decade or so, advances have been made in piston technology. It has been found that adding Silicone to the Aluminum will reduce piston expansion caused by the extreme heat that is present within an engine. This reduction in thermal expansion reduced piston seizures. Silcone also adds strength to the aluminum and reduces wear. - Pistons are often though of as being a perfectly round cylinder. In actuality, pistons are tapered from the top to the bottom. Why?... Well, different parts of the piston are subject to different levels of heat and since heat tends to expand metals, then it stands to reason, that the areas which are subjected to more heat will expand more then the areas that are subjected to less heat. The top of the piston is obviously subjected to the most amount of heat, as well as pressure, and therefore; will expand more. - Pistons are not only tapered, but oval ground at the skirt. Once again, this is to accomodate the different temperatures that are present on different parts of the piston. - So, when measuring a piston for wear, one needs to measure on the skirt faces at the widest point which is always below the wrist pin. Measuring anywhere, but the widest point will give an inaccurate measurement. - Below are some of the advantages and disadvantages of the two. Flat Top:-Advantages: -Minimum surface area, hence lightest with shortest heat path to cylinder wall -Faster heat transfer to cylinder wall. -Piston crown is in tension under load -Ports open faster, not masked at partial opening by chamfer. -Piston shape does not interfere with the entry and exit angles set by the ports -Combustion chamber can be a true hemisphere Disadvantages: -Aluminium is poor under tension when hot -Greater possibility of ring over-heating due to more rapid heat transfer -Nothing to prevent gas crossing piston from transfers to exhaust port. (this is not always a disadvantage with a tuned exhaust) -Achieving an efficient squish band is not easy. Dome Top Advantages -Piston crown is in compression under load -Dome pushes incoming mixture to top of cylinder and reduces "short circuiting" -Scavenging tends to be better so less four-stroking at partial throttle. Disadvantages -Additional weight -Compression forces tend to spread the top ring land. -Port timing is slightly fuzzy. -Increased surface area of piston and head produce more quench effect in squish band. -Combustion chamber tends to crescent shape, slowing flame spread. Thanks to Dave Boothroyd and Mike Gifford for their contribution in this flat-top vs domed article, they pointed out a few advantages and disadvantages that I over-looked.
  12. Besides the issues that usagi & I have had, there are many others that have had the same issue.The motor is slightly different then the RR with different porting, combustion chamber, compression ratio & pipe design. Rekluse has several clutches for the old style clutch including the new RadiusCX & now they have a new clutch with a slower primary gear ratio to deal with. I spoke with them recently & asked about it & they said that a faster primary ratio makes their life much easier.
  13. Thanks for this great thread! Next time it runs away IMMEDIATELY put your palm over the exhaust. Can you list the tools you needed?
  14. A few thoughts; It will be interesting to see if the domed piston & different combustion chamber sorts out some of the low end jetting difficulties &/or will require higher octane fuel due to the slightly higher compression ratio? I wonder if the "reinforced lower bearing area to reduce friction and heat while improving reliability" was a result of the oil injection running less oil overall? They are giving Rekluse fits!