• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

227 Excellent

About Bedunjgi

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

346 profile views
  1. I will just leave this right here;
  2. I was just writing a reply to the questions you asked me but deleted it because wwguy did it for me. Let me know if you have any further questions.
  3. I am cutting off the factory shrink tube & crimps & re-crimping with heat shrink connectors with adhesive & then covering with heat shrink tubing for additional protection, also in case I pierced the insulation on the crimp & in case I wasn't careful enough putting the dielectric grease covered wires in the crimps since the adhesive doesn't stick on silicone covered wires. They aren't designed to be used with grease but I wanted to. I have been trying to be very careful with the grease & wiping with alcohol before heating & keeping the wires from touching the sides as I put the crimp on. Then I am rewrapping it with split loom & zip ties following my rough tracing & photos before disassembly. For the non-waterproof connections I will either fill with grease & shrink tube the ends to keep it from washing out or when I am connecting the plugs, I will heat shrink them with non adhesive (So it can be cut off) tubing over the entire connection to hold it together & keep the grease from washing out. Products; Assorted Hook Self Closing Braided Wrap Sleeving; Heat Shrink Wire Connector; 3:1 Shrink Ratio Tubing; Dielectric Grease; Bernzomatic BZLTR300 Premium Flex Stem Utility Lighter; Hot Knife Solder Tip; Craftsman stripper / crimper Small black zip ties 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol Needle nose pliers to open up shrink tubing to fit over connectors
  4. I received the wire loom I bought from eBay from a 2016 (Mine in a 2015) & laid it out on a piece of plastic & quickly traced it & labeled the connections for reference before I stripped the covers. These are photos that I made for myself just for reference & I don't feel like wasting allot of time sharing every detail but I will continue to point out important findings or answer questions as time permits. After these photos were taken, I stripped all the covers & laid it back out on the tracing. I will try to take some time to make a video with all the wires exposed of what I have found & how to locate crimps buried in the loom as well as how the wiring diagrams are confusing since several of the connections that look like they are from plugs, are actually crimp connections in the loom & far from the location shown on the schematic. I will be using heat shrink type crimps with adhesive & possibly some strategically placed dielectric grease on the wires so as not to disturb the adhesive as well as additional heat shrink wire cover with adhesive to redo the crimps in the loom & then I will be rewrapping it with self closing split braided wrap sleeving & zip tying all the breakouts etc. I don't want to have to disconnect all the plugs to used regular no split covers & also want to keep the wires easily accessible. The braided wrap is protective & also allows water to drain;
  5. I tried a new Digital Multimeter to confirm & the readings are the same. I am confident in stating that there is a misprint & that .5 ohms on yellow to white from what I believe to be a Kokusan 4K3B Stator, is acceptable. Also, the Shindengen SH721AA Half Wave, Single Phase Regulator/Rectifier, cannot be tested with normal Digital Multimeters except for charging voltage while the motor is running; I have ordered the eBay wire loom I posted here; Rather then try to do it on the bike, I will disassemble the new one, rebuild it & take lots of photos & post them.
  6. Funny you ask because I recently serviced the kickstand because it was loose again. I thought that the bushing had worn so I pounded it out with a correct sized socket (SOB! I must have used high strength thread lock & couldn't remember what size drill bit I had used) & installed another ( since I had ordered several) with thread lock. There was still allot of play. The problem is also caused by the shoulder bolt not being able to account for the wear of the aluminum against the steel frame so I added a thin washer so that the shoulder bolt clamps everything tighter. That helped a lot. Put thread lock on the threads & figure a way to get some marine grease in there before tightening without smearing the thread lock off is tricky so I just regularly spray lubricant there. I put back the safety wire that holds the bolt from loosening & made a new aluminum shim/stop. Its holding up well with minimum play. Here are links from when I originally did it;
  7. I had some time this morning to work on the bike before riding & was able to catch my tail after chasing it for a while; Both stators are working properly. The manual is wrong. .5 Ohm is fine between White-Yellow coming direct from the stator both on & off the bike. Also, if you want to test AC voltage on the yellow & white wires direct from the stator while running, you will get very low readings probing between them but, once you put either probe from either of the yellow or white wires to ground, you will see the proper AC readings (~30VAC at idle to ~ 60VAC revving). Either my Multimeter is bad or its impossible to test either of the Regulator / Rectifiers, but they both work properly. It has worked properly for all other tests & I use it regularly. I blew my high beam & running light when I disconnected the R/R to test the voltage on the incoming wires. DOH! Once I reinstalled it, I ran with my low beam that wasn't on at the time of the disconnect throughout the day & it worked properly. I put heat paste under the R/R to help conduct some heat to the frame. I checked it throughout the day & it was very warm at times but not too hot. I opened up the headlight cowl & started moving wires around while my multimeter was connected on 20VDC setting with alligator clips to the battery while the motor was running. I found that the electrical tape that I had used to cover the broken front brake switch wire had slipped off a bit & may have been grounding out. I thought that was the problem but after I eliminated it as a cause, I saw varying voltage readings as I moved wires around. I disconnected all the plugs from the computer bracket & cut open the loom & saw some of the questionable connections that have been discussed here & on the other related thread I have going. I was running out of time & want to do the job properly so I just used a pliers to pinch together the wires through the insulation & put everything back together so I could ride. One thing I noticed that might have also thrown me off besides the incorrect stator ohm readings, the inability to test the R/Rs & not seeing high AC voltage until I grounded one of the probes from the stator yellow & white wires, was that the charging voltage takes a while to creep up. I don't know if that had thrown me off from the beginning when I was testing it while holding the probes to the battery for about 15 seconds & deciding that the charging voltage wasn't high enough, but I think it might be related to the capacitor charging because once it reached a higher charging voltage & stayed there, even after stopping the motor, I needed to run the starter motor while holding the kill switch to see the voltage drop back down (Capacitorr discharged?). After I found that my OE Capacitor had failed from corrosion, I installed a similar rated one (4700mf?) but possibly a bit more robust. Well, at least I know the capacitor is working! Anyway, the bike ran great today & started every time so it was charging. I was a bit cautious of running the fan & kept it off until it started to get hot (I have it hooked up to a switch & have a temperature gauge with the sensor mounted to a head bolt). I think that the replacement Spal fan I got, although it looks very similar to the OE Spal fan, might draw more amps. Here are some of the usual suspects from a preliminary preop biopsy (Four pinks?, 7? blacks, 3 purples). A few strands of copper wire were poking out the side of the insulation of the black wires (Keep it greasy );
  8. Correction; At 1:25 I say Red/White but I meant to say Yellow.
  9. Some discussion happening over here;
  10. Dr. Kludge Dielectric reporting back. I tested the stator that I bought from a low mileage 2016 XT before installing & it had the same ohm readings as the one my 2015 XT came with that I thought was bad. The ohm reading stated in the manual is; "Yellow - Mass" (WTF is "Mass"!? Ground?) 0.61ohms +/- 15% & is the same as my reading for "Yellow - White" (which is supposed to be 0.18ohms +/- 15%) on both stators tested from the plug & at the solder connections on the stators as GP suggested. KTM states similar numbers for the Kokusan 2K-3. So, unless the stator I bought is also bad, I think that the Beta numbers are for the wrong stator. I hope that I now have a spare properly functioning stator. I went ahead & swapped the stators since I was already in there. FYI; If you ever do this & the stator bolts don't loosen easily, stop & heat them. I had the same problem when changing the fork spring. Beta used some seriously strong thread lock on some fasteners. I tried a heat gun but the nearby plastic was getting heated so I rested a soldering iron inside the hex of the bolt & let it sit while I did other things. I did the same with the second. I tipped the bike to the left with paper towels under the motor & let the oil in the Bendix well drain out. Then I worked the Bendix towards me & opened it up & sprayed brake cleaner inside & all around the stator. After it was dry while reassembling, I tipped the bike against a wall to the right & poured in a little more fresh oil then specified since it seems like it could use a bit more lubrication. It seems to get whipped around & unless the starter motor oring is bad etc, very little water enters (mine had a slight milky color but was still doing its job.). I have done this a few times since new. The service manual isnt clear but they state to put silicone paste at the wires coming off the stator & at the rubber grommets that exit the cover, but both the stators I have, already had silicone sealant at the wires that are soldered to the stator. I assume it is to assure that they stay tucked back away from the flywheel as I have read about some new KTMs having issues with the wires getting cut by the flywheel. Jeff Slavens has a video about this. The other spot that Beta says to put the silicone seems to point to the grommets which I have done with some RTV Copper every time I opened & closed it. Dielectric (Silicone) grease on the gasket helps make it reusable. I buy the big cans of Dielectric (Silicone) grease from Home Depot & went through all the connections as I was working & filled them all up. I didnt see much corrosion. ­čÖĆ I assume that its at least partially due to the fact that I spray the bike down with soluble machine cutting fluid after I wash it. I am not sure how good it is for the rubber parts, me, or the environment, but it seems to have kept the corrosion at bay. I also have used Simple Green HD mostly to wash it which helps with the corrosion & when new I went through all connections & sprayed Fluid Film in them (Lanolin). Anyway, I tested the the SH721AA Regulator/Rectifier that my 2015 XT came with that I thought might be bad & compared it to the one that I bought from a low mileage 2016 XT with the Diode function on every possible combination with my multimeter & the meter always read "1" & never changed. Help! I hope that I now have a spare properly functioning Regulator/Rectifier. I will install the new one before riding Sunday & hope all is well. The voltage drop at startup tested at the battery was normal (~10VDC) so the battery is good. I hope that I now have a spare properly functioning EathX battery. Just throw $ at it! I checked the voltage with the starter motor spinning from Red/Black to Red/White & it was the same with both stators between 18-20VAC. Charging voltage at the battery while running with both was similar 12.8 - 13.2VDC. Yellow to White while running was about 5 - 15VAC with both from idle to revved. Are we having fun yet? Edit; Oh yea, I don't know if its possible on post 2015 bikes but since I removed the Oil Injection, I had some slack in the wires so I loosened the wire clamp at the back of the fuel tank & moved the connections forward so I could access & test them from the left side without doing anything with the fuel tank. I also took all the wires & connections under the left rear fender side & moved them to the center in the middle of the U shaped water diverter to keep them dry & also be able to pull them through from under the seat to test them. The only connection left there now is the CDI & another large one that wouldn't fit into the middle without lifting the subframe (I will do that next time the subframe is loose) but its filled with Dielectric Grease & pointed down so it doesn't fill up with water. The only plugs left to deal with are under the rear fender & the headlight cowl but they have gotten at least some attention since new. Now to find the three mystery connections from this photo;
  11. Charging voltage at battery while running was low. That was the first ting I checked.
  12. Battery not charging properly. Tested .5 ohms yellow to white (Should be .16 +/- 15%). Its been dry but that can change if any hurricanes come near. Do you have simple instructions on how to test the R/R? I am not too familiar with using the diode function on my multimeter.