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About djidji

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  1. I have 5.0 rear on the WR 125 and sag and feeling are good (75 kg without gear). 0.42 at the front (stock) but 0.40 may be better. So I'm surprised by your 6.0 rear. But if it fits for you, it's fine. Jeanjean
  2. TE with OC fork, TC with CC fork. Look at your top cap. If positiv hexagon head, OC, if hexagon recess, CC jeanjean
  3. The opposite i my case. '13 Husky with KYB48OC: first service at 25 hours, the first batch of oil was clean, as I pumped the rod to extract the oil of the cartridge, it became black! I found it weird, since in an open cartridge, the oil should mix. jeanjean
  4. The allballs website is wrong. The DR650 bearing doesn't have 25 mm inner diameter but 30 mm ! Maybe better to look for a Honda triple clamp (XR400 / XR600 / CR from the eighties jeanjean
  5. What do you call "ride bearing"? You have to remove the inner bearing ring with the tapered rollers from the DR stem and put the inner bearing ring from the 32005 bearing on the stem. jeanjean
  6. Have a look at https://www.allballsracing.com/forkconversion The DR650's bearings are id/OD 25 x 52. The CRF230 bearings are 26 x 47. Takes a 25 x 47 bearing and your are done (if the length of the stem is OK). SKF 32005 for example. jeanjean
  7. ...you can put it in your engine as well... jeanjean
  8. I use LHM with success in both shocks and forks. Viscosity is 18 Cst at 40°C, with a high viscosity index (<350). LHM is quite hydrophilic and should be changed regulary. jeanjean
  9. Would you be so kind to give feedback when installed? I have a showa 43 on which I'd like to switch too from NOK to SKF. Thanks jeanjean
  10. I've seen this side, but thanks for the tip. I've done the shim mod in the base valve a long time ago, going at the time from 12 to 6 shims, as suggested for the XR400. However, my bike is 60-70 lbs lighter. I love the XR400 fork compared to the one I had before. I went first from the stock 36 mm fork to a 43 mm Kayaba from a YZ 125, I think 1983, with orifice damping through the damper rod an compression adjuster at the lower end. Was an improvement compared to the stock fork, but the cartridge fork is a different world. There is one area where I'm looking for improvement: when riding on skid trails in fourth or fifth gear and hitting ruts or small rocks, I would say around 2"-3". That's where I which the fork to be more plush. For the rest, it's perfect. jeanjean
  11. I'm know with 4 shims on the comp stack. I had a closer look to the adjuster. The piston has no bleed hole. The bleed bore through the body is 3 mm. Assuming, the needle opens it fully in the wide open position, adding a 2 mm bleed hole would allow to run the clicker at their medium position with the same bleed. The rebound piston has a 1.2 mm bleed hole. I did't take the holder appart, and don't yet understand how it works. I was assuming that there is no passage from the lower chamber below the piston to the rebound chamber via the holder, but only from the holder to the top cap through the rod. But the holder has a bore from below, although there is another part inside the bore occluding the exit. Is there a kind of one-way valve inside the holder? This would give one bleed in compression direction (useless as the stack opens like a check valve) and a second, different bleed in rebound direction. To know more, I'll have to take the rebound holder apart... jeanjean
  12. ---it's German, but see at the bottom of the page the application list Seal alone https://www.s-tech-racing.de/fahrwerk/gabelteile/simmerringe-einzeln-skf/42236/skf-gabel-simmerring-kyb-43-schwarz seal + dust seal https://www.s-tech-racing.de/fahrwerk/gabelteile/simmerringe-staubkappen-skf/4974/skf-gabeldichtring-staubkappe-kyb-43 jeanjean
  13. I'll try with one or two shims less. I'm 160 lbs without gear and the bike around 210 lbs without gas, so if 4 shims works for you, it should work for me as well. The place where I ride is forest, always wet, but sandy ground, not loamy. Lots of up- and downhills second gear, skid trails fourth or fifth gear, so no high speed, but plenty of rocks. One round is about 15 miles and takes 50 minutes. Thanks for your inputs jeanjean
  14. Well, although the improvement compared to the stock fork is substantial, I'm sure there is room for further improvement. I run the XR400 fork with the stock springs and full travel, so not shortened as you do. 6 from 12 shims removed from the base valve, but I have to run the comp clickers all the way open. In a conventional set-up, I would add a bleed hole through the piston. The rebound valve is stock. I don´t remember exactly, I guess I had 6 shims. Oil is LHM 18 cts at 40°C, level 116 mm. On roots, could be a little bit more plush. That's the bike jeanjean
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