Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About nedc

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    South Carolina

Recent Profile Visitors

240 profile views
  1. nedc

    Honda XR200R Hydraulic Clutch

    Me too-ordered a MSR Raptor shorty lever, thanks for the suggestion. The Barnett HD clutch springs make the clutch pull fairly stiff.
  2. nedc

    XR200 piston wrist pin stuck

    The piston will not rotate/move at all which is probably what locked it up and caused the skirt to break. So, definitely locked on the piston...maybe the rod too.
  3. nedc

    XR200 piston wrist pin stuck

    Yes, circlips removed. Beating on it with a mini sledge did not move it (on it's side w/ the piston supported so it could not move). Thinking I will take to the local machine shop and see if a hydraulic press can get it out.
  4. nedc

    XR200 piston wrist pin stuck

    Oh, I've hit it with all kinds of penetrants. I'm really afraid to bang on it for fear of hurting the crank. Maybe I will rig up some kind of fixture that holds the engine sideways and the piston solidly supported-then I can go crazy with the sledge hammer.
  5. nedc

    XR200 piston wrist pin stuck

    Yeah, I may have to 'get medieval' on it!
  6. nedc

    XR200 piston wrist pin stuck

    No, I'm trying to avoid splitting the case.
  7. After I broke the frame for the second time on my 83 XR200, I found a 2001 complete bike with stuck motor. Since i had completely rebuilt the 83 engine w/ Wiseco over sized piston, etc., I swapped that motor over to the 2001. I added XR250 front forks and shock and kept riding and enjoying the bike. Before I knew better and before rebuilding the motor, I had the decompression system not hooked up. Once I got smart and hooked it up, it was much easier to kick start (duh!). Well, I guess the damage was done because the other day, the kicker slipped and then it locked up. Now the bike won't even freewheel in neutral so I guess something inside the cases is jammed up. I decided to take a look at the 2001 motor and see what's up with it. As you can see, looks like it was run low on oil and/or very hot and the piston tried to mate with the cylinder. Also, some of the skirt is missing!But the crank spins freely and there was not a lot of debris in the slinger- just oily, powdered aluminum swarf as you would expect. What i want to do is maybe put the top end from the 83 on the 2001 bottom end, but the wrist pin is locked to the rod and I have not been able to get it out. Not gonna bang on it, because I don't want to risk damaging the crank, but using a threaded rod and a big socket is not working either. I'm trying to avoid splitting the cases on either engine. Included pics of the top end to show that there are no real obvious signs of oil starvation, which leads me to believe the bottom end is OK once I flush it out Anyone have any ideas on how to get that wristpin out? Heat? dremel the piston off?
  8. OK, so I wasn't happy with the too low and not long travel enough rear suspension, so I found a decent looking 96 XR250 shock on ebay and pulled the trigger. Here it is: IMG_2285 by Ned Chilton, on Flickr As has been noted, it measures 15" eye to eye-too long for an XR200, so I set about redrilling: IMG_2287 by Ned Chilton, on Flickr I spent a lot of time to ensure that the hole would be the exact right size and perfectly straight and then drilled it about 1/8" too high! Didn't know this until I cut the ends off (you have to so it will not interfere with the linkage rocker) and saw that there was not enough clearance between the rocker and the shock clevis to permit free movement. Damit! IMG_2288 by Ned Chilton, on Flickr So, a couple hours of carefully grinding a small amount off the top of the rocker body and some out of the inside of the clevis gave enough clearance for everything to move freely over a range of motion. IMG_2291 by Ned Chilton, on Flickr My transmission jack makes a good lift for getting the wheels off the ground and keeps the blke stable. IMG_2286 by Ned Chilton, on Flickr And success! A short ride showed that the rear lands very nicely off of jumps without bottoming and feels pretty good over roots and braking bumps. I barely have any preload on the spring and haven't really messed with the clickers. I have the bottom screw set at 'S'- I guess that is soft. I will adjust sag and play with the settings later but for now, I'm just gonna ride and enjoy. Oh yeah, the resevouir doesn't have much pressure so that needs to be charged up. Seat height is now about 37". IMG_2290 by Ned Chilton, on Flickr
  9. Chuck, thanks for chiming in. If I went w/ the 96-04 shock, i would get cartridge emulators for the forks I think. The part of the linkage i was referring to is not the dogbone, but the main pivot piece-don't know what it's called. Anyway here is how the bike sits at present: IMG_2283 by Ned Chilton, on Flickr And here's the linkage piece, showing the difference: IMG_2284 by Ned Chilton, on Flickr
  10. As I documented in a post earlier this year, I broke the frame on my 83 XR200 and after finding a good 2001 roller, I moved the newly rebuilt 83 motor to the 2001 frame. I had modified the 83 w/ an XR250 front end but in the interest of time (and since the XR250 needed fork seals badly), I kept the 2001 suspension intact. Well, I felt like I was on a minibike when I took the first ride on the 2001! So I cranked up the preload on the rear shock and added about a 2" preload spacer in each of the front forks legs. that raised the bike up some but the suspension was pretty harsh. Which takes us to the last couple of weeks. I rebuilt the XR250 forks with new seals, etc. and filled them w/ 16 oz. of 10w fork oil in each leg and put them on. Now I have a really nose high bike even with the forks about an inch up in the triples. I know the way to balance it out is to put a 13.5" XR250 shock on and I've been looking on ebay but they're all over $100 and probably need rebuilding. I know the specs say a 1983 has about 9.7" rear travel and the 2001 has about 8.3"? maybe. Also, at this time I replaced the worn out rear tire with a 110/100 Volcanduro which raised the back end up a little bit. So, I decide to put the 83 shock on hoping that will give me back some rear end height and travel. Turns out the 83 shock is only 13" eye to eye as Chuck and others have documented. Now the back tire actually just barely contacts the airbox when landing off of jumps so that won't do. The 2001 shock is maybe 13 1/8" eye to eye so where does the increased suspension travel come from on the 83 (I ask myself)? I decided to compare the 'dogbones' and, sure enough, the 83 is different in the placement of the hole for the shock clevis. Anyway, I used the 83 dogbone and the 2001 shock since it is slightly longer, had firm damping and the 83 shock was fairly mushy, and that brought the rear end up maybe 1 1/2-2". The seat height is now about 35 inches unloaded. I'm 6'2" so I would rather have about a 38" seat height. At some point I will probably put an XR250 shock on but, at least for now, it is rideable and no contact between tire and airbox when landing off of jumps. I think, for my purposes a 13.75" shock would be ideal, but that's not a size that any XRs use. Maybe I'll get a 96-04 XR250 shock and cut down the clevis and redrill as someone posted on here.
  11. nedc

    Help please-KYB 41mm forks question

    Chuck was correct-snap ring under the dust seal. Took me a while to realize the metal 'ring' around the top part of the fork leg was actually part of the dust seal and had to be pried off. After that, the circlip showed itself and once that was off , the two pieces came apart easily. As usual, I felt like an idiot after I figured out the procedure and saw how easy it was!
  12. nedc

    Help please-KYB 41mm forks question

    I haven't located a snap ring, but maybe I need to look a little closer. Will report back with my findings.
  13. nedc

    Help please-KYB 41mm forks question

    Thanks...they are conventional. I thought they would come apart after the damper rods were out too. I've been slamming the fork legs like a slide hammer and they still won't separate. Maybe I'm not pulling apart forcefully enough? Don't want to screw something up...
  14. I've got some KYB 41mm XR250 forks to put on my 2001 XR200, but can't get them apart to change fork seals. I've got the damper rods out and have mangled the fork seals, but can't get the sliders apart form the legs so i can finish the job. Is there a nut or snap ring or something i am missing? There seems to be a metal on metal sound when I extend them, but they won't seperate. Thanks.
  15. nedc

    Will a 230 motor fit in a 200r frame?

    Yes, I had an 83 and adapted KTM pegs to it easily, so I was unpleasantly surprised to see that the newer frames used a completely different setup.