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About sbmon

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  1. This is really disappointing to see. I was very much considering a set of Warp9 wheels (complete setup) for my DRZ400E. Have you folks having issues tried to test fit the smaller oem brake disc to the wheels to see if that might get you by for the time being? Warp 9 setups are not cheap and to see/hear issues like this stinks. Also prestonb44 it looks as though not only is the wear on your front pads very uneven side to side, it also appears as though a very minimal amount of the pad is even making contact with the braking surface or is that just a function of how uneven they are wearing (if that makes sense). Prestonb44 do you have any pictures from the side of how everything is bolted up?
  2. cowpie I too was considering getting some eBay or warp9 wheels for an E model. I thought you put some SM wheels on your DRZ, which wheels did you go with and how do you like them (any pics)? I have seen a few different options like warp9, smpro, and kke but am not sure which or if any of those are decent quality options. Thank you
  3. Using my phone to read jets
  4. Sorry I know this has been covered but I can not remember the answer or find it. I have a 2004 DRZ400E model (electric start) and the oil return tank has an open outlet. It is the rear port facing left that is just wide open (the front 2 are connected as usual to the cylinder head and case). Shouldn't this have at least a hose routing somewhere, maybe I knocked it off but I can not see it anywhere. ps here's a screen shot of Suzuki manual that states it is to be routed to air box but if memory serves me correct I believe this E model air box does not provide a port for this. Any help greatly appreciated.
  5. It's an rs2 can. I'm pretty sure that can was not developed for many years after 2001. It also looks like the mid pipe mount was bent (could be the pic angle) possibly to fit the E model subframe, this would likely explain why the can mount was also cut to a C shape to fit.
  6. E subframe? How does that rs2 midpipe mount?
  7. Another little update. Today I received the TT MCCT and installed it. Basically adjusted the MCCT loose and tightened it up while bike was idling until the racket noise just stopped. The spark plug looked like the bike is jetted a little rich but that's something I will sort a little later. While I had the valve cover off I checked the valve lash. It looks like everything was good (nearly centered in the range) except for my right side intake which is right on the edge of acceptable at .1 mm. I will likely get a shim for it and adjust after a few hundred miles hopefully. As far rubber bits go I did see a couple tiny bits in the cam chain area but only a couple specs. Thank you for the help from everyone.
  8. Did you try the raptor petcock with the gas cap removed? If the gas cap is not venting correctly it would stop free flow.
  9. I did around 500 miles in a day a few years ago on my first drz (stock seat). Was a nice ride but my rear was sore. Thousand mile day on a drz would be quite impressive.
  10. Excellent thank you for confirming. Just as you mentioned I am only finding those little hard plastic bits when draining the oil from the case. I found no signs of the plastic/rubber in the frame screen. Thank you
  11. Greatly appreciate the input everyone. I went ahead and placed an order for the TT MCCT. I looked at some cheaper options on fleabay but none of them appeared to have the o-ring seals which looks like a pretty good idea in this application. Rustynut2 mentioned the rubber particles could be from the pieces that contact the ACCT. He noted specifically part #2 & #4 in the schematic. Are those items made of rubber? Are they easily replaceable if they look as though my current ACCT has worn them out by placing too much tension on them? jjktmrider Glad to hear you don't sound excessively concerned with the findings in the screen. I too was hoping to go a couple hundred miles (knowing me curiosity will get the best of me by 200 miles) and check the oil, filter, and screens again. I didn't mention it in my last post but the magnets on the drain plugs are coming out very normal looking with very very minimal micro dusting of metal (similar to anything I have seen on my other drz's doing 1K mile interval oil changes) when emptying the oil. Thank you
  12. Update I put less than 10 miles on the bike since the oil change. Upon William1's recommendation I wanted to pull the frame screen to have a look. The new oil drained had approximately 20% of the rubber bits that were there originally. However when I pulled the frame screen there were no signs of rubber but there was metal. Not a huge amount but there was one particular piece that I fished out of the frame (using a telescopic magnetic pen) that has me concerned. The large piece actually looks a lot like remnants of a thread that is beginning to pull out, it doesn't appear like a smashed piece of metal. I have attached pictures of the filter and offending particles for reference. The bike runs very good and sounds good (starts right up, no smoke). This is my 3rd drz so I have a decent reference for judging the power and usual sounds the drz emits. On my other drz bikes I did find some minor particles in the frame filter but never pieces as large as the one shown. So my question is how should I proceed? Should I ride it a few rides and pull the frame filter again in hopes that this is an anomaly or should I start tearing into the motor? As always greatly appreciate any help Thank you
  13. If u change to an SM swinger (lol) the rear brake setup is different so you would need to look into that aspect. While the E model setup is close to your S setup (brake wise) it has no chain guard mount.
  14. Considering the condition of the tank and plastics you can come out way ahead (if condition is really good) by selling the originals and buying the base color you want. Also the graphics on the tank are under the clear coat.
  15. I would much rather a 5th gear indicator on a drz than the neutral switch/light. I find myself kicking for 6th too often.