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    • Bryan Bosch

      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

surfez

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About surfez

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  1. First question, has the suspension been worn in yet? Service manual states run in the suspension before adjusting anything other than sag. Second question, Are you in the recommended weight category for the new KTM's suspension? Ultimately any new bike may need suspension adjustments via spring rate changes depending on your weight and riding style. To expect pro level suspension and to your taste out of the box would be lucky regardless of who made the bike. I used to despise KTM after myself and a mate had a few handling issues and costly engine repairs (on older models to be fair). I bought a 30 hour KTM 200xcw 6 speed (with a softer spring rate than i should be using) and i absolutely love this machine to bits. I couldn't fault the handling for what i ride, cross country & novis mx tracks. It has an FMF pipe and chamber and lifts the wheel in third gear like my old cr250 power but way smoother. Buying a new bike to me is asking for hours of suspension adjustment and tinkering. Test riding someones bike thats near new and buying what feels great saved me money & time. Ex-KTM hater. Now I love them. I like Beta also but dealer support is limited here as is after market parts so i would never buy one. My mate just bought a brand spanking new YZ450. He hates the suspension & is spending a large chunk of money to get it right. Thats the norm for most guys on any model really.
  2. Ditto! Third ride on my "new to me" ktm200xcw (20 hours on the bike) and i was taking a nephew for a trail ride. First lap stuck my leg out as stuck in hidden rut under the grass. Feb 6th 2018. Last Friday i had ACL reconstruction. Bike parked up with a blanket over her. Knee braces on my mind... not a perfect solution but 50% reduction in injury according to stats.
  3. Exactly why I sold my wr450f and bought a near new 15 ktm200 xcw with the six gears. Admittedly the 200 has fmf exhaust at both ends but it would whip my old 91 cr250. And probably beat the wr450 up to 140kph the 200s top speed. The wr450 was modified also.
  4. I ride single track and high speed woods or cross country. Last few bikes I've owned. Wr250f 2003 with exhaust mods & suspension mods. Dream bike. Getting old. Steel frame but heavy. Later model better. Ktm300 2010' probably more than I needed. Great bike for tall rider. Loads of torque. Ktm350sxf 2011 limited race edition. Soft springs for mx use awesome for woods. Light enough and fast. Xcw or endure model prob better with stand wide ratio box etc. Bought New 2009 wr450f with every mod you could do. Great high speed cross country bike. Heavy but fast top speed, tiring in woods. Latest ktm200xcw 2015, 30hrs with gnarly pipe & shortly muffler. Absolutely love this machine. Changed my view of the wr450f. The ktm has 6 speed box and with factory exhaust it's super quiet! But if you want 3rd gear wheel stands the race exhaust is a must and helps with torque. I was a four stroke fan. I'm way faster with less wastered energy on the Ktm 200' not sold after 2016 but essentially a modern day kdx200. I'd go wr250f with low hours or 2stroke possibly the 300cc tuned for torque via exhaust spring adjuster... as is easy to lug around with factory muffler. Or modern 250 two stroke enduro will be my next bike most likely ktm again. I like the slightly smaller 200 and would go 250cc next time as I don't need the 300. My ktm200 is super light and not much slower top end than my wr450f. I ride the 200xcw faster for longer and feel safer with more energy. I swapped from riding a mates 2012 ktm300 to mine and far prefer the 200. Mind you it's 3 years newer with amazing suspension etc.
  5. The Acerbis ones you can see from the front are light weight plastic without alloy. As someone else has said they hold up well so long as your not hitting stuff hard. The ones viewed from the top are Bark buster for a BMW and much stronger. I have hit trees, fence posts and such without any drama. i like the look of what i think people are calling "flag type" but only experience is factory KTM ones that break as soon as they touch the ground or an object. IMO: I wouldn't ride woods/enduro without full wrap guards. However i do like the above "flag type" with the alloy brace embedded. Handling argument. I don't notice any issues with lack of flex. After pictures taken bike has has suspension and other mods done. I don't think the handling would change if the suspension and ergo's is all sorted correctly anyway. If so... You could always use flex mount bar clamps etc? The Acerbis plastic wrap around hand guards allow for flex with a 2 piece alloy bush insert between clamps and bars. This is what mine have, mounts used from the Acerbis kit now on bark buster kit.
  6. Pictures of my first 03 WR250f steel frame 4 years ago (sold now). My 2010 WR450 as new in Dec 2015 (Black edition sold in New Zealand as 2010, likely 09 build) with new decals last year blue,black white. Since changed decals back to Yamaha GYTR blue and changing again to red and black again some time.
  7. These bikes look awesome! Have fun guys.
  8. Even as a qualified technician, you damage something due to using any impact tools your alone. Dude... Its happened to me in the trade before, using any form of impact gun/tool is asking for trouble. Two things can occur. 1. speed at that the nut/bolt is spun can cause it. 2. Angle that the tool is held with weight of the impact gun and socket can drive the nut over on an angle. Your going to kick yourself for using an impact tool. I'd put money down a power bar would not have caused that... So i wouldn't hold Yamaha responsible. They will say. Where in the owners manual does it tell you to use impact tools on your bikes engine... IMO.
  9. 250cc 2 stroke should be comparable with a 450cc 4 stroke (I've owned both, basically the power curve changes from bike to bike, it also changes within 2 stroke models, however the HP is generally similar between 250cc 2 stroke and 450cc 4 stroke). That said... The power delivery changes. My KTM300 was tractable power and had loads of top end speed. My CR250r was way faster off the mark. My WR450F in factory form is tame as an XR200 and could have been operated by a learner. (They come with throttle stop & a 10mm tail pipe new). Its now a fire breathing weapon with a race pipe, jetting changes and other performance mods. I raced dirt drags and ran the same times as a guy who won the class on a CR500. Basically my average track speed was his race win time. Digital race lazer used at national champs. Before you go throwing parts at this new bike. Check the jets, Check its getting full throttle, make sure the choke is off, check the thing has not been set to "tame" or mild vs "wild" on a switch. Check exhaust for damage or blockage and power spring. If you still don't find anything. Start digging deeper. Check reeds, check piston etc. Its not as likely but bad or failing stator windings can cause trouble with power also.
  10. My brother inlaw just said to me tonight the new KTM 85sx bikes are blowing up left right and center. Nobody was joking around. He went to the KTM dealers in our area because my nephews KTM mini needed a new clutch (they give trouble from over heating by the way). The KTM mechanic said to my bro inlaw "you have four boys on 85's" Yes. The mechanic assuming we had new KTM85's "Have they blown up yet" No we have KX85's. The mechanic had one near new KTM mini for his kids that had spat the dummy, I've had heaps of them packing up he said. More personally. I've had engine problems from my KTM350sxf. My college had a KTM520 with a flat spot we couldn't resolve. Neither of the two dealers could resolve it. They started throwing parts at it, fuel pump, fuel injector, regulator etc. My new Yamaha showed metal in the oil for the first two oil changes (and it was a very minimal amount) then it cleared up after 150kms 3-4 hours max. The Yamaha manual says expect a little bit. My mate who had the Ktm520 also bought a new Yamaha yz450f and his had minimal metal as expected same deal 3 hrs and casting remains gone. This should settle and go away pretty quick smart as the engine wears in. Keeping in mind that the engines are run from new in the factory also. At 30-60+ hours if you are getting reasonable sizes of metal shavings... That is not normal fine wearing in metal unless this is your first oil change. I appreciate your right with many things discussed becoming... he said, she said, I heard this guy say. However, If you would like contact phone numbers of the engine re-conditioners and cylinder plating/diamond honing specialists i was in touch with while replacing my valve guides & plating my cylinder i can provide these contacts. Keep in mind these guys fix race engines all day so they generally don't have time to "spin stories on the phone about what they've seen and fixed" however in conversation... I heard many remarks about failed camshafts, valve chains jumping teeth, timing chain tensioners failing LIKE MINE DID after the bike dropped on its side. I hear your point. But be careful discrediting opinions of those in industry who are dealing first hand with dealers, machine shops & parts suppliers. Generally in these fields of expertise we don't have time to rubbish something if its not rubbish. While i appreciate there are people who love their bikes, read all the reviews about how great they are. Generally a review never discusses, longevity, parts prices, design, ease of repair due to design etc. The closest an observant owner of a shinning new model bike will get to wondering the longevity of his/her bike may be is when they look at the dealer service schedule of their engine. My ktm350sx factroy cairoli replica at 100 hours in the service book. Replace piston & rings. Replace all valves, replace gaskets and seals and ALL engine bearings??? I'll let you decide the cost of this rebuild if you do it by the book. Do some research past the dealers words, walk into the workshops, discuss it with engine builders etc before you make up your mind.
  11. By leaving the last 1-1.5kgs in the engine to keep them strong maybe a good start... Lol. We are talking about 2-3 lbs. Not worth the saving IMO especially after reading and hearing more and more stories of the later stuff not lasting as well. This is the 3rd post i have seen this month of a KTM that has metal filings stuck to the magnet that is way bigger than anything I've had from a new bike up to two years old. I won't go into the stories I've heard from engine builders because i'm not invested in KTM now nor am i interested in a debate. But give it some thought. Its exactly the same with any technology in the auto industry. Sacrifices are made for weight. Its a fact. If your that worried about 2lbs weight, buy a 2 stroke.
  12. Hopefully the Katooms are not sacrificing strength for light weight engines... The first thing that comes to mind each year i read that KTM have shaved more weight from their 4 stroke engine. "What has less strength and rigidity" that would have otherwise lasted years for the regular riders... In order to keep the pros winning, people who ride/race new bikes each season wouldn't care what happens 2 years down the track. (Two years is about the time the regular Joe is buying these bikes). I've had two KTM's a 300 and 350. Both great bikes to ride. But as a trained mechanic/technician (now trade tutor). Weight loss from an engine, as in the 2016 onward bikes, at least in high performance small engines... does not appeal that much IMO. I'll take the bullet proof proven engine hands down for long life, reliability and low cost maintenance. (Not that we want to go back to XR's TT's and DR's, but can you see the link to weight & the reputation for reliable bike engines that lasted decades). Something to consider anyway and if your buying new bikes often who cares.
  13. I've switched to tubliss... Couldn't be bothered taking a spare tube on rides. I bought a small co2 canister inflation kit and rubber string repairs, some tyre patch glue in my rear fender toolbag. Now I can run 5psi when I need it and have an easy tyre repair in the bush. Really good system. Imo. Fail safe...Totally depending on the professional method in that you install tubliss as to if you have any drama. Take time and follow the instructions.
  14. No rekluse fitted sorry. But i was basing my comment on what is a normal metal catch amount on a magnetic plug vs what is not normal. If that amount of loose metal is what ends up going through my engine due to running a rekluse i'd remove it straight away and send it back. (Should point out i'm not a fan of "automatic" bikes anyway).
  15. I bought a new Yamaha, way less metal than that from new as expected for the first one or two oil changes (even the owners manual says a little is normal) judging by the size of those "shards" that is not normal casting coming loose. Also the first two oil changes the lose metal is usually gone. I'm at 1200 kms and two years, my oil comes out like new almost after 200 kms of trail riding. I only got a few bits of fine partials for the first 400kms max.