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Mike Mike

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  1. Mike Mike

    Stupid question

    The forks are 38mm, outside, for 1999 KLR650
  2. Mike Mike

    Yay another rebuild after 3 or 4 hours..

    Nice work miatou ! I agree, Over Rev looks very similar to cold seize. I also like 32:1 for premix. The amount of oil does effect the jetting. Oil in the float bowl takes the place of the fuel and will run lean. Careful measuring is important. When you read a two stroke spark plug, look at the steel ring at the bottom of the threads, excess oil will collect there. For me, cold seize has more distinct 4 corner marks on the piston. Lack of oil is mass damage all around the piston. And like we said over rev has less distinct marks on the intake side. Like anything else, reading pistons and spark plugs takes experience. Another factor in reading a piston is to determine where the heat came from. Hot cylinders can grab a piston. Years ago I had two very disappointed boys and a mad parent holding a Yamaha blaster piston (200cc air cooled 2 stroke atv) that I had installed. It looked just like yours, so my parts guy was concerned, we always stand behind our work. I looked at the piston and asked the boys if they might have run extended WOT. They both smiled and confessed to sticking the piston attempting to out run a cop. The kids asked why they could go WOT before the fresh top end. I explained that a very lose piston ( 0.012" clearance) worn cylinder and rings did not run well enough to stick the piston. But lose is not good it broke the piston and took out the bottom end. Kind of got carried away there, Mike
  3. Mike Mike

    No mess chain lube ?

    For what it is worth I have used most of the chain lubes. Rain, dirt, mud seem to remove the lube from my chains, o-ring or not. For me, I tried PJ-1 messy; tried Spectro chain wax ineffective; Now I use Spectro synthetic chain lube. Best time to lube a chain is after a ride when the chain is a bit warm. Wire brush for a quick clean, and I also lube below the swing arm on inside of chain. Once or twice around, spin tire slow more lube, spin tire fast less lube. Hopefully the warm chain will accept the lube and some time will allow the lube to set up. I like WD40 for cleaning my wheels it is a solvent so it dissolve oils and leaves a surface that resists crap sticking to it. Probably the best thing for long chain life is spending a bit more for high quality. mike mike
  4. Mike Mike

    KLX650C Valve timing help

    Hey thanks back at ya. I always assumed that the KLX was the same engine as the KLR. Now that I finally did look they are very different. The technique of keeping the cam chain tight up the exhaust side and setting the ex cam first should still be effective. No wonder nobody ever talks about swapping parts between the X and the R. I have never worked on or ridden a KLX. They do not seem real popular around here. The Kawasaki Mojave atv had the same type marks on the cam sprockets and the marks always left me guessing. It was the intake cam I would get wrong, but soon on the test ride it just would not accelerate. There is information from Eagle Mike about advancing the KLR ex. cam with only good results, maybe a we bit more power. Mike Mike
  5. Mike Mike

    Big piece of metal on oil strainer

    Looks like part of a plain bearing, my guess is from a gear. Does not look like a boring type chip. The chance it is from manufacture is very very unlikely.It is a burned up plain bearing, the rotating grooves are clear to see. Everything still works because this type plain bearing is thin, once the parts it used to protect wears you will find the problem. Catch it now, buy a gear and maybe a shaft. mike mike
  6. Mike Mike

    KLX650C Valve timing help

    There is no lower chain for cam timing, there is a counter balance chain. Mag "t" start with ex cam. pull chain tight on ex side. Slide ex cam in with arrow mark flush with head and forward, double check "t" on mag. Slide intake cam in, arrow forward and close to flush with head. Keep chain tight up over the ex cam and over intake cam leaving the slack down intake side (this slack is taken by cam chain tensioner). Starting with intake sprocket count the first pin of the cam chain that is above being flush with head, there should be 45 pins to the first one on ex sprocket above flush with the head. This should leave you with the ex cam marks flush with head and the intake slightly above the flush line. Chains stretch and sprockets wear making the flush lines not perfect, however moving the cam to the next closest pins will make the lines way out. Arrow on ex sprocket flush and back line on intake cam above flush with head never bellow. mike mike
  7. Mike Mike

    KLX650R Rattling noise/cam chain tensioner

    A couple of things you might try. The auto cam chain tensioner does fail. Sounds like things are already apart. The best place to check cam chain tension is under the valve cover. As the cams roll over, the force of the valve springs will show the slack. Sometimes loosening the cam chain tensioner from the cylinder (back bolts of .250") will allow it to open to the next ramp, then by re- tightening the tensioner you will force the chain tighter. Now you can see if the extra tension has helped. When installing a manual tensioner, you must tighten the chain by looking under the valve cover to be sure the slack is not hiding between the cam sprockets. Do not over tighten. You mention upper and lower chains. The smaller chain behind the flywheel is the cam chain and it is tensioned by the unit on the cylinder. The larger chain behind the first is the counter balance chain. This is where the famous "doohickey" is. This chain is adjusted by loosening the bolt under the rubber plug at the bottom of the mag cover. This adjuster is not automatic and the mechanism likes to stick not allowing the chain to tighten. The best way to tighten this chain is with the mag cover off, so if needed you can help the mechanism tighten and see what is going on. You are wise to correct the noise before riding. Lose cam chains can scramble valves (big $) Lose balancer is terrible noise and left unchecked will wear stuff out, sprockets the chain and even the cases. New balancer chains are $300 plus and no aftermarket.
  8. Mike Mike

    09 crf450r dies when it gets hot

    The pulse coil can be a on or off deal, bring a ohm meter with you. When bike shuts off see what happens to pulse coil resistance. Use a new spark plug and if possible pull plug cap and check for spark. Battery condition, or charging. Weak battery, bad rectifier or stator. EFI bikes need 12volts or things shut down. Check all connections, I see wiring issues more often than component failure. Manuals are very good for testing efi components. Most are easily isolated and simple resistance or reference voltage can be rested. Doubt you have tight valves or bad rings. Especially when problem happens after short run time. Mike Mike
  9. Mike Mike

    Klr600 retarded timing

    You can check the flywheel key, if sheared of the flywheel can spin on crank. I would check my carb for clean and proper jetting. Also check for air leaks in intake system. Did you check valve clearance when you did cam timing?
  10. Mike Mike

    Klr600 retarded timing

    All of the Kl Klr 250,600,650 have a pick up coil at magneto, all timing is done by CDI box. The kl600 and klr250 actually use the same CDI box. You fixed the cam timing? Why do you think the ignition timing is off? Is very rare that a CDI ignition will fire out of time, if things are not correct they usually will not fire at all. mike mike
  11. The KLR works best on stock size tires Asphalt, dirt and mud (we have no sand). Wider with open tread will give a bumpy flat surface that drops sharply to try and turn on. The rims are designed for stock size to present proper radius and tread. Wide tires feel like flat tires. Metric tire sizes are in millimeters. !30/80/17 130 is width; 80 is side wall but is 80% of width. So 130/70 has shorter side wall than 130/80. Rim size 17 is in inches. I would spend my time choosing type and brand of tires that would suit your combination of surfaces that you ride. I ride dirt and really like michelin T63 (can't find rear in stock) 90% off and it will slide on asphalt. I also have Anikee 3 wild great for asphalt and dirt roads. Cheap tires like Shinko are crap. I have not seen a 150 on a KLR. mike mike
  12. Mike Mike

    Xr 100 bogging PLEASE HELP ME

    The picture is the valve cover removed. The head is what we are looking at, it has to be removed to see the valve condition. However it sounds like the trouble is gone. You want it to run best when warmed up. Outside air temps and e!elevation can effect carburation. M M
  13. Mike Mike

    Xr 100 bogging PLEASE HELP ME

    I have not read anything about backfire, usually a failing ignition will backfire as unburnt fuel builds up in the exhaust and then ignites when spark returns. Did the old carb have black color in the engine side? What I am getting at is worn valves. In time the valve faces get worn losing compression and creating excess reversion back through intake. Get a manual and pull the head, post a good picture and those that know will be able to tell if the valves are sitting to deep. If all looks good you are out some time and a head gasket. Good Luck Mike Mike
  14. Mike Mike

    Alot of water in the oil

    This is a case of over wrenching. From a slipping clutch, to messed up water pump seals, to a blown head gasket! Running the engine with ZERO coolant was a bad idea. Water pump seals and the head gasket are the only two places for coolant to enter the engine. It may be possible to leak into the cylinder through the sleeve but unlikely. At this point you may have warped and or cracked the head, the damage should be obvious with the coolant pouring right through into the sump. I suggest getting a manual. MP
  15. Mike Mike

    Alot of water in the oil

    When you instal the mechanical seal find a socket or something that will allow you to press on the outer rim only. The oil seal faces outward , smooth face to pump, spring side of seal to the oil. Slide cover over water pump shaft carefully and keep gasket surfaces parallel. Rock the cover slightly to get the seals past the ridge on the impeller shaft. A bad head gasket will usually create extra pressure in cooling system and push coolant out of overflow. Some coolant can get in the oil but at that point the engine should perform horribly.