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About Oldie230

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  1. yes, it was the same here, until the early '70's when the XU1's. E39's and GT-HO's ratcheted up the ante spurred on by Homologated production car racing and things started to get interesting. It's didn't last too long though, before the anti car wowsers canned it, and things returned to Ho Hum..
  2. Ahh, yes. Just like the old Grey and Red Holden engines!
  3. I would tend to agree with you (although I have little idea what 'the old GM LG-4 305 or L-48 350 engines' are - Are they something like the old grey or red Holden engines? ) But once those little XR or CRF's are modified for extra performance, I think they start to become 'high performance gasoline engines' in this context. Also, perhaps 'old' technology may be more in need of a greater margin a protection than 'new technology'. Perhaps 'performance'', and technology' are two different things? After all, isn't the use of water cooling to lower the chance of the engine operating at dangerously high temperatures that might damage the components and/or stress the Lubricant?
  4. We'll, the person who wrote the blog and did the testing is a Hot Rod orientated person. So I would hazard a guess that he has in mind any sort of engine that is modified for greater than stock performance. But I think I would take a broader view, and include any engine that might be running in conditions that stress it with hard work or high temperatures, and especially both. Is it possible that our little air cooled engines, in summer conditions, can sometimes run at temperatures that could stress the Lubricant just a wee bit? Your definition is up to you. Ya makes ya' choices, ya takes ya' chances.
  5. If you don't like it, don't read it. I have studied up on oils for years, but this thread actually led me to some new, interesting and useful information.
  6. I offer this without Prejudice: Quote from the Rat540 blog after his testing on using diesel oils in Petrol (Gas) engines: SUMMARY Thermal Breakdown BEGINS SOONER with Diesel oil, than with gas engine oils, which is not desirable for High Performance gas engine usage. And as you can see by looking at this short list of “high zinc” gas engine oils, or by looking at my complete Wear Protection Ranking List, there are many, many gas engine oils available that are FAR SUPERIOR to the best Diesel oils in terms of wear protection. Therefore, using Diesel oils in high performance gas engines is NOT the best choice, if you want superior wear protection with plenty of margin of safety (extra reserve wear protection above what the engine typically needs). . For those who have used Diesel oil in High Performance gas engines for years without issue, you were able to do that only because the wear protection required by the engines, never happened to exceed the oil’s capability. But, you were clearly running a MUCH LOWER margin of safety than you would have been, if you’d used a much more capable gas engine oil instead. So, if you’ve been using Diesel oil in High Performance gas engines, you may want to rethink what you’ve been doing and consider upgrading to one of the far better gas engine oils. CONCLUSION The bottom line is that the end user does NOT know more about motor oil than the Oil Companies’ Chemical Engineers and Chemists. So, the BEST choice is to use only quality gas engine oil in High Performance gas engines. These oils offer MUCH HIGHER wear protection capability and can withstand somewhat higher temperatures before the onset of Thermal Breakdown. Leave the less capable Diesel oils for use only in Diesel engines, where they are meant to be used.
  7. I rode this to Uni. circa 1971. Yes, I replaced the header pipe and later I had fitted a 305 Kit. Weekday Commuter and Weekend trail bike. Now I wish I had not given it away in the late '80's.
  8. LOL! Fair enough! Probably on the back wheel as well!
  9. WOW! I am guessing that adds a LOT of top end! How many extra pounds does it add?
  10. Thanks Chuck. There is some enormously interesting reading in that link! (and took me all morning! ) The logic he uses is hard to fault from my Layman point of view, but I would like to know if his methods have been documented and, more importantly, peer reviewed. That aside, his results do strongly suggest that: a. High Zinc content is not nessasarily the 'be all and end all' of wear protection. Far from it. But can provide better long term protection as it depletes but is still present. b. Diesel engine oils are generally a poor choice for better wear resistance in high performance Pertol engines. They rated only 'Modest' on his scale of 1=Incredible, 2= Outstanding, 3= Good, 4 = Modest, 5 = Undesirable. Yep, that surprised me too. Unfortunately for me, he has not tested most of the oils available in Oz, or if they are here, they are called different names or are different formulations and therefore his testing may not be relevant I suggest that if you are a Rotella fan for motorcycle engines, read his article on DIESEL OIL TESTING (a bit over 3/4rds the way down the Blog page.) At least you may have some additional insight.
  11. Correct me if I am mistaken, but the way I read those links, only one of those oils is MA rated and advertised as suitable for shared gearbox engines.
  12. I thought he just did: Clean, good quality oil and change it often. Best advice ever! Hey, they only hold 1 litre of the stuff........ Who are the penny pinchers?
  13. Yes I agree. Good point about the Hydrocracked base oils marketed as 'Full Synthetic' Turbo Dan. The better non PAO/Ester based 'Full Synthetics' I was thinking of are the 'gas to oil' type, produced particularly by Shell, and I think they are also sold by Pennzoil in the USA. I wonder if they use this base oil in the full synthetic Diesel oils? In any case, Diesel oils often contain higher amounts of some anti-wear additives like Zinc that car oils do not because they are not Catalyctic converter friendly. So there is good reason to use some Diesel oils in a motorcycle. It is my understanding that more motor oils are using higher quality base oils today, like the Shell product and PAO/Easters, to meet the ever increasing standards for low viscosity (better milage) and long change motor oils. It is very hard to know a lot of the time what the base oils are in so called 'Full Synthetcs', and many of the car focused oils may not be any good for our wet clutches anyhow and often have much lower levels of motorcycle engine friendly additives like Zinc.
  14. The best oils for a wet clutch, shared oil engine and transmission engine is a Fully Synthetic, PAO/Ester based oil without friction modifiers that hurt the clutch. Non PAO/Ester 'fully synthetic' are not quite as good but definitely better than Mineral based or 'semi-synthetic's". All mineral based oils rely heavily on Viscosity Modifiers (VM's) (to achieve their Muti-Grade range) which break down quickly in the high shear environment of the transmission, leaving you with a very low viscosity oil at high temps. Air cooled engine obviously needs an oil that is stable at high engine temps. PAO/Ester base oils typically use very little, or no VM's, have a naturally low *W rating and very high VI and flashpoint (protects upper cylinder better). They are also extremely shear stable. Win-Win-Win! If you change the oil often (every long ride?) it probably doesn't matter if you use good Mineral based oils. If you use a high quality POA/Ester synthetic it will cost more but you wont need to change it as often and it will offer better protection at both ends of the temperature spectrum, especially after a few hours of hard use. I use a 10W-40 PAO/Ester based, high Zinc racing oil, MA rated. I buy it cheap when it's on 30% discount.