Jump to content

olddude

Members
  • Content Count

    1,019
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About olddude

  • Rank
    TT Gold Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Virginia
  • Interests
    Hunting, fishing, chasing wild womens, riding my bike
  1. olddude

    1984 suzuki 185 ATV won't start

    I went over there and signed up but couldn't find anything. Thanks!
  2. olddude

    1984 suzuki 185 ATV won't start

    Does anyone have a service manual that could copy and post the trouble shooting steps for the ign system?
  3. olddude

    1984 suzuki 185 ATV won't start

    no, I am in VA. By chance you, do you have a work shop manual for that bike?
  4. olddude

    1984 suzuki 185 ATV won't start

    tried that but didn't make any difference.
  5. I'm working on this ATV for a friend. It had been sitting in another guys shop for two years and he finally gave up on him and brought it to me to see what I could do. I cleaned the bike good, removed and cleaned the fuel tank, then took the carb apart and cleaned it. He bought a $100.00 carb kit that had a bunch of stuff in it and I replaced everything that was in the kit. The carb was gummed up pretty bad but I soaked it in carb cleaner for a couple hours and blew out all the passage ways and put it back together and installed it back on the intake. I also replaced the choke cable that was broken while I was in there along with the spring, the plunger, rubber boot and the part the boot hooks to. After all that it's still a bear to start. After I did all that work the first time I tried to start it it fired up and ran about 20 seconds then cut off and wouldn't fire up again. I went back and pulled on it for 20 minutes and it finally started and I managed to keep it running long enough to get it in gear and after that it ran great. I made a couple laps around my track and it never missed a beat, ran great. I pulled it back in the shop cut it off for a couple minutes and pulled the rope and it started right back up so I figured it was fixed. The next morning before I called him to come get it I tried to start it and it would not start. After pulling on it for an hour it finally started again and it ran ok. I let it sit for an hour and went back to try and start it and again it would not fire up. The first time I looked at the spark plug (before I rebuilt the carb) it was fouled and looked like it had been running rich. I pulled it again and the plug had cleaned up and had a nice tan color to it. While I was looking at the plug I checked the spark and it looked kind of weak. I mean it had a blueish white color to it but just not as bright as it should be. It had a B7EA NGK in it and I didn't have one of those and all I had was a BR7EA which is a resistor type plug but I tried it anyway but it still didn't change it still looked the same. Now I'm wondering if something in the ignition may be going bad but I don't have anything on the ignition system that tells how to test or what readings I should look for. What I was wondering was if anyone had a manual with that ignition on it that they could post up or lead me to somewhere to where I could find it without having to buy a manual that I would probably never use again. I'm open to any suggestion that anyone may have at this point, Thanks in advance!!
  6. olddude

    Haulmark elete

    Thanks.......and yes it's been quite a hard ride for me. I had talked to a couple people about buying the trailer and both wanted the extra stuff but didn't want to pay for it. I need to get $3000.00 to break even on just the trailer. I've spent over $1500.00 on all the other stuff I have bought and installed and that's not counting some stuff I already had and time involved. I know my time isn't worth anything when dealing with something like this but I hate giving away my hard earned money that I put into this trailer. If I strip everything out then I would have to spend a lot of time doing so and then on top of that I would have to trim out the inside to put it back like it was to begin with. That just seems like wasted time but it may be what I have to do to get anywhere near what I need to get for just the trailer. The rest of the stuff I guess I could sell on fleabay or chaigs list and get some of that money back that way.
  7. I haven't been around for some time. I see some nice changes to the site, looks good. Some of you may remember me some probably not but just for a refresher I had a son that was having problems staying on the right trail and I thought getting him into bike racing would help him sort things out. It was working for awhile and he became quite a good rider. Even then peer pressure got the best of him and he finally ended up in jail. I had bought this 24' Haulmark car trailer that I was working on converting into a toy hauler when all this came down to a crashing halt and was about 75% completed when he went into jail. I had divided the trailer into half with a walk through door to the shop area. I had installed a shore power setup with a 30 amp service plug that you could plug into available AC power with a battery charger built in so that you could run off of battery power or by the 30 amp service. I had also run an 120 volt AC line to the back of the trailer on the outside to run a pressure washer off of. I also ran AC recepticals to several places in the living area and also in the shop. I ran a heavy DC line into the shop area to run the pumps for the fresh water system and the bike wash system. I put in a shower box on the rear outside of the trailer and also a fill station for the water tanks. I had installed a nice marine stereo system with speakers in the front and back among other things. I never got around to bunks or stuff like that but it does have electric heaters in the front and also Air. At this point I do not think we will ever go back to racing when he gets out simply because I really can no longer afford to do so and what I was wondering was what do some of you guys think would be the best way to sell something like this and what would it possibly worth. I don't know if it would be better to strip all the stuff I put into it out accept for the insulation I placed throughout and just sell it like that or leave it as is and hope for the best. I thought about putting it on Chaigs list just to see what happens but don't know how to price something like this.
  8. olddude

    2004 YZ125 Basket fit a 2005?

    If you look at the 04 basket beside an 05 you will notice that the area around the kick start gear is a lot heavier. As I said in an eariler thread, I did one time while I was going through this problem.... bolt up an 04 basket to my 05 bike. I started it but never ran it at the track because the basket belonged to someone else. At the time everybody was saying that I didn't know what I was doing and that when I put my motor together I had not done it right and that was the reason the baskets were failing. At that point I really didn't know what was causing it but I did tear that motor down and put it back together as close as humanly possible and still had the same thing happen again and again. I still don't see why the 04 basket would not work but I never found a spare one laying around to try before I went to the Hinson clutch. Then shortly after that we quit racing because of personal problems within the family and I boxed up everything and put it in my 24' car trailer I was working on and turning into a race trailer so we could be more comfortable at the track. Everything has been packed up for a couple years now and on hold in hopes that some day we might be able to get back into the game but at this stage it is highly doubtful. I wish I could give you a more definitive answer but I simply can't because I never got the chance to try it. I would have thought by now that Yamaha would have either owned up to the problem or at least come up with a fix on the newer yz's. Have you looked at one of the baskets out of something newer.....say like an 08 or later bikes? The 05 was the first year for the new style shift setup and those 1st year deals are always trial and error until they find out what works.
  9. olddude

    2005+ YZ 125 Rad Valve OR VForce3 (w/ PICS!)

    I opened up the box a little by cutting some holes in the rear and on the sides of the box and installed some vent plugs in the holes to keep out big chunks of mud, sticks, rocks an junk. I also modified the air filter cage itself to help it breath better. When we would run the stock motor I ran a Pro Circuit platinum 2 with a stainless shorty silencer. I also did a little cleaning up of the exhause ports to help the flow a little. When we ran the 144 motor I ran the FMF Fatty pipe and believe it or not I had it connected to a stock YZ scilencer and it ran the best it could run that way.
  10. olddude

    2005+ YZ 125 Rad Valve OR VForce3 (w/ PICS!)

    Oh I can relate alright.........I used to be a tournament bass fisherman so I truly understand what you mean about wanting just the right gismo to win the tournament. My bass boat was filled with literally thousands of different baits, all different kinds of depth finders that showed all the pretty little fishes that were under the boat, temperature and PH measuring gauges. Gauges that claimed they could tell a fisherman how big the fish was, what kind it was, what it weighed and what it ate two days before. I had10 to 20 different rods and reels packed in the rod box that were marketed for one reason or another. With all this stuff packed in the boat I still found myself reaching for the same 3 or 4 rods that were rigged with the same baits. 1), Model A, medium running crank bait in either the fire tiger or the blue and silver shad color pattern. 2), either a yellow or white spinner bait, sometimes both colors on one bait. 3), A rod rigged for worm fishing, usually rigged Texas style with a quarter oz slip sinker, a really sharp azz hook with a 4 or 6 inch worm tied on in a color suited for the water color in the area at the time. 4), A great big ol white or yellow Buzz bait rigged with a trailer hook to entice that big ol' bass off of that log over there in that giant field of lily pads. Then of-course in the heat of the summer or in early spring when the water was high and the fish were either way up under a flooded willow bush or lurking way down deep under an old duck blind I would reach for my 7' flipping stick rigged with 25lb test line with a 4" smoked color worm tied on the end to get them out from under all that debris. Bass fishermen and dirt bike riders are a lot alike, both want to win the game they are playing. They both like to go fast and they both like to brag a lot about who caught the biggest fish or who looked the best going over that tripple jump or railing that sweeper turn. Both like to brag about how fast their bike or boat is and both have all kinds of excuses of why somebody else beat them to their favorite fishing hole or why they came to the flag in 7th place and not 1st.Oh yeah, they are both lured by bright and shiny stuff offered by companies that make all sorts of claims about why you, just have to have this on your bike or boat or somehow you are just not going to have the edge when it comes lap times or the weigh in. Hey, I'm just an old fart just running my jaw so don't take any of this stuff personal or as if I am putting your riding skills down in some way because that is not the case. You asked a question in the OP and then pretty much answered your own question in your last response to me or at least that's what it seems to me, but hey...what do I know? What I know is from stuff I have tried and was either successful at or in a lot of cases not so lucky. To me it seems to me that from what you have stated the V-Force would do well for you. They are a tad better over the stock setup and rarely will you have jetting issues when you install them. They do tend to wear out rather quickly in extreme cases but from what you have stated that doesn't seem the case in your situation. I never could tell much, if any improvement over stock reeds using the Pro series reeds other than they may be a little more durable over stock. Installing the whole Rad Valve will in some cases hurt more than they help and will probably make a stock bike harder to jet at least this was the case with our situation. Once we made some airbox mods, did a little port work and found the right pipe and of-course learned a little about jetting it did make the stock motor come alive.
  11. olddude

    2005+ YZ 125 Rad Valve OR VForce3 (w/ PICS!)

    I don't know why I do this but here goes. First let me say I don't care what you use, it's your money and if you are happy with V-force or the Rad Valve then keep on twisting the little thingy on the right hand end of the handlebar and be happy. Are you going to get the huge horsepower gains that all of the companies making this stuff claim you will.......well probably not. The thing is most of the people riding their YZ 125's are not riding them to their potential to begin with so how would you even know? I wont say they are gimmics that they make just to get your money......well they want your money but either of the two products you mentioned do provide some gains and in the world of competitive racing every little bit helps. The thing is anytime you can pack more air into the intake for the engine to use it helps, more air normally means more horsepower. Are you gonna feel it in the seat? Maybe, if everything before and after the reeds is working as it should then all these things combined add up to more power and there is not just one piece of the puzzel that one can really claim is a game changer. Both, the V-Force and the Rad Valve enables more air flow over the stock reed system. Both of these products will normally give you a few more R's top end and a little better transition between Idle and mid range. Most all carb engines have a slight problem in the transitional stages between idle and mid range and again from mid to top end especially two strokes. Two strokes engines need RPM's to make power and they suffer badly when just one piece of the puzzel is out of place. More air in means the engine needs to be able to effectively use it in order to get more power. If the jetting isn't spot on and the air filter is not clogged because it hasn't been cleaned since it came from the showroom, the right heat range spark plug is not used, powervalves are not clean and free to move like they should, your pipe doesn't look like it was run over by a truck and it is sealed good at both ends, the packing in the silencer is still there and not so oil soaked it's a fire hazzard or it's spread all over the last 4 or 5 tracks you rode at, you are wasting your money and you should correct all this stuff first if you want to see a difference. Me, I'm a Rad Valve kind of a guy especially after I did the 144. The V-force did well on the stock setup but the biggest problem I had with them was they would burn up after a couple races especially if you were running your jetting right on the edge and the rider stays on the pipe the whole moto. Most of the tracks here in Va and NC were big wide open tracks where you stayed in the WFO mode the whole race and that took a heavy toll on them. The Rad Valve reeds seemed to hold up a lot better under those conditions and you could really tell the difference with low end torque especially with the 144. The 144 provides good low end torque anyway and the Rad Valve really complimented the low and mid range all the way to the top for a smoother transition between the whole range. It seems to me the V-Force works well with the stock 125 and is not as hard to tune as the Rad Valve in a stock setup. I found that I had to change jets pretty much each race when we were stock and running the Rad Valve. The V-Force was just drop in and run with regular stock jetting in most cases. With the 144 jetting was easier with the Rad Valve and it was a waste of good money to try and run the V-Force reeds in that beast cause they just would not hold up.
  12. Come on RC.....I know you have to have an old service manual laying round some place with that old shift set up. P L E AAAAA ZZZ EEeeeeeeeee.....
  13. olddude

    Wiseco clutch basket quality

    I don't know about the rest of the guys but yammy knew there was a problem they just didn't want to fix it. To do that they would have had to trash hundreds of baskets and start over. My rep at the time denied it of course but a year or so later he dropped a hint that confirmed my thoughts. I can't say that I blame them though. It's hard to just throw out all those good/bad parts when it only happened to a few breaking here and there.
  14. olddude

    Wiseco clutch basket quality

    The whole center hub would just rip right out of the basket. Sometimes they would break off nice and even like you cut it with a saw, other times they would look like someone beat the center hub out with a 10 lb hammer. A few times they would give a little warning like when you kicked it over it felt a little funny before it broke. Other times nothing, it would kick just fine and everything would seem fine then the next time you went to kick it over.....zing pow! Nothing. I tried everything all stock brand new stuff, wiseco basket with all new stock parts, I tried Barnett parts, EBC parts, Hinson basket with the same setup, then complete Hinson with all Hinson parts. That one is still in the bike but it dosen't have but a race or two and it hasn't been used since.
  15. olddude

    Wiseco clutch basket quality

    It's been a few years since we were racing and it's sad to hear that someone hasn't come up with a fix for this yet. I went through several of these baskets back then and it wasn't too much of a big deal cause at the time I had a yammy dealer number and the parts I was getting at dealer cost. I didn't start having problems with this until the kid really started ride the bike like it needed to be ridden to be competitive. We had a couple basket failures while the bike was stock but really started having problems once I made it a 144. We broke two baskets in one race one time so I went to a heavier clutch...or so they say and we broke them too. Then I tried the world famous Hinson basket and broke one of those too. I called the yammy factory, wiseco, PE, and the Hinson guys and everybody was saying the same thing....we haven't ever heard of that hapening before. Hinson was the only people that ever replaced a basket for me, well accept Yamaha did credit me for the first one that broke but wouldn't do anything else for me. The guys at Hinson seemed really concerned and they asked me to send them the first one that failed so they could have a look see and try to figure out what had happened. With that one it turned out to be one of the eariler baskets that they were using a different type medal and a different process in the manufacturing process. They sent me a brand new basket and gave me a real good discount on the rest of the parts to make up a whole new clutch and that one did last 4 or 5 races. Then it broke on the starting line at one of the biggest races of the year for us and we had to wait for the gate to fall then push it to get it going. It never gave any warning at all it just started to go to the gate then it was broke when he tried to kick it over for the gate drop. The bike made it the whole moto but everything was toast by the time it was over and I had to put a whole new one in to finish out that day. That time Hinson sent us another brand new complete clutch and we only raced a couple races after that because the kid got into trouble and we had to take a time out and have never gotten back into it. I still have them sitting in the trailer ready in case we ever do decide to do it again. I ride it every now and again but it just isn't the same anymore. I guess what I am saying is don't let them tell you it just don't happen all you have to do is do a search under my user name and you will see ....yeah it does happen.
×