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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018



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About firechicken93

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  1. Solved! As is tradition the fix was simple and I spent two weeks chasing ghosts. At least through my testing I know that my bike is good order. I was MISSING 2 parts in my carburetor, the previous owner must have lost them during a rebuild, I didn't notice them missing because the carburetor looked complete without them, I was missing the collar between the emulsion tube and the plastic cap that snaps onto that collar number 23 and 24 below. I've also attached some after and before pictures to show how far the bike has come in 1 month. new chain and sprockets, new air filter, full tune-up, new fenders, and new headlight, plus multiple little fixes here and there, and lots of paint removal. The carb still needs to be dialed in (running 4th needle position and 140 main, its a little rich in the midrange, need to drop back to position 3) but at least now I have a good starting point.
  2. oh alright, looks like a jumped the gun a little bit. I wish i would have checked that my cam is stamped "5" and not "6" while I was in there, but i'll assume it is correct for now. Thank you! i'm learning something new every day.
  3. I will also add that I checked the pick up and source coils and their ohm readings were right on the money. The ignition coil read 1.6ohms primary and should be 0.1-1.0 so I may be faulty but i'm not convinced, secondary ohms were proper.
  4. The plot thickens. I wanted to make sure timing was correct so I pulled the valve cover and guess what I found! Well the timing was correct, but also I found an Auto-Decompression cam sitting on top of my dirt model DR350! So that is why I have low compression readings! The auto decomp cam cannot be disabled for proper readings as far as I can tell. This also means I adjusted my exhaust valves too loose (as I adjusted them for the manual decomp 99 head), which wouldn't cause my running issue but it is strange. Can anyone tell me what my valve specs SHOULD be? lets assume it is a 99 dirt model head with an SE auto-decompresion e-start cam.
  5. I did check the choke and it is functioning properly, I did not replace the o-rings but they were still in good condition. and the choke works when running, I use it to start the bike, and the bike responds appropriately when disengaged. I was careful not to over saturate the air filter, I used proper oil and have a pretty good technique down.
  6. great thought, I have had that scenario play out with old 70s 4-cylinder street bikes, but remember this is a dirt model DR with flat side carb, with a non-vacuum assisted petcock though of course I checked the petcock for proper flow in the on and reserve positions.
  7. Let me start by stating that I have done quite a bit of research and trouble shooting on this problem already, which is why I am seeking advise. I recently purchased a 99 DR350X (pumper carb dirt model). It ran like crap when I bought it but I thought it was a jetting issue. Mods: pro-circuit slip-on and airbox mod+backfire screen removal. Symptoms: Bike starts right up and idles clean, revs are pretty crisp all the way through in neutral, when in gear under load it will not rev past 4 or 5k rpms, it just bucks, sputters, and misses. It smokes when it hits these RPMs but not at idle, smoke is blue. The plug, which is new and correct, is black, dry, and sooty, the inside of the muffler is the same. sounds super rich, right? I'm not convinced. The carb is squeaky clean and jetting is at least close. The flat slide housing is a little worn, but I've read that the symptom of an overly worn slide is leaking air which causes inconsistent idle and decreased throttle response. I don't know if it would cause an issue this dramatic. Trouble shooting so far: New plug, adjusted the valves (they were pretty close to spec already), new and oiled air filter, compression test (80psi), adjusted compression release, rebuilt the carb, new plug and plug boot and slightly trimmed plug wire (to ensure good connection). The wiring harness is in pretty good shape but I cleaned every connection and ground, dialectic greased all connections, made sure all male/female connections were tight. Repacked the muffler and ensured that it is not clogged. Rebuilt the carb meticulously, including cleaning the float valve screen and checking float height, and thoroughly cleaning and inspecting the accelerator pump and can visually witness it operate correctly with a strong consistent "squirt". Current jetting is stock pilot, 3rd (middle) needle position, and 140 main. I have tried the following jetting combinations as well, all with properly adjusted air screw. (all w/stock pilot) 4th clip needle 145 main 5th clip needle 145 main 3rd clip needle 127.5 main (stock) and 3rd clip needle 135 main none of these jetting changes made a noticeable difference in the way the bike runs, it still falls on its ass under load. It has great throttle response and power in low rpms but as soon as it hits the midrange it sputters, misses, and jolts. And it revs much higher in neutral, I think this is important. I'm starting to suspect an electrical fault, I've seen stators and internal coils go bad but they usually fail completely or will cause a miss throughout the rpm range. I'm pretty baffled. I've read 4 other posts with this DR350X condition and noone reached a conclusion. One guy rebuilt his top end because he thought that was the problem but of course that didn't fix it. I just sunk a bunch of money into this bike and i'm running out of time in my favorite riding season. Please help! Thank you, -Calvin
  8. I purchased A 2001 Honda 250ex weather weak spark issue. What I have done so far: went through the wiring harness with a fine tooth comb, greasing all connections, and cleaning all grounds. The start button does not engage the starter, but when engaging the start button, I'm getting power from both wires leading from the start button to the solenoid, leading me to believe that the solenoid is bad. If I cross it with a screwdriver it will engage the starter. When I pull start the four wheeler I get a very weak spark about every 5 to 10 rotations. The ignition switch is functioning, I rebuilt the kill switch and it appears to be functioning as well. I'm not sure where to go from here. Since I am getting a little bit of spark does it sound like the coil, stator, CDI, or voltage regulator? I am new to electrical diagnostics luckily parts are cheap for this bike. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Also I ran the compression test today. 150 cold 150 hot/dry 180 hot/splash of oil Not terrible but since the manual calls for 199 150 does seem a bit low. What do you guys think? I will need to do a leak down test to really know anything.
  10. Thanks for the info chuck! My system has no valve on the bottom which means I was probably sucking dust through the crank for 7 hours straight last weekend. Looks like I need another oil change! I'm going to plug to bottom hose and put a cheap breather filter from advanced on the top hose. They cost about 10 bucks, I ran that system on my old bike and felt good about it.
  11. This is unrelated but does anyone know how the crank case breather hose is supposed to be routed? Mine comes from the case then splits at a T, from there neither end is connected to anything. Is this correct? I though it was supposed to connect to the airbox. I searched here but couldn't find info on the routing.
  12. Thanks for the advice. I plan on maintaining the bike meticulously until I rebuild. I just installed a band new well oiled Uni filter and changed the oil. I also lubed everything on the bike, chain, bearings, etc. I reset the cam chain tensioner and adjusted the valves. This thing does run really well. Hopefully it will keep taking the 10 hour days I intend to throw at it. With the oil burning I will probably have to change it often.
  13. That certainly makes since to me. I'll still post the results from the compression test when the tester comes in. I've been wanting to do my first top end rebuild but I'd rather wait until the heart of winter to do it. I feel pretty confident that I can tackle the job. The deepest I've been in a motor is replacing the cam chain, guides, and clutch on my old Klr250. I'd like to keep riding the bike for the next couple months while we have the weather for it. I assume it shouldn't do much more damage to the motor since it isn't smoking badly and seems to run great. Is it a terrible idea to continue trail riding until I rebuild in January?
  14. Here's a pic of the bike. & I change the oil with bel Ray 20-50 mineral oil and added a magnet to the drain plug before my 7 hour ride. The oil is already pretty black but it didn't use a noticeable amount
  15. I just picked up a 2001 xr200r for $500 that was smoking at high Rpms and wouldn't idle. It is in good shape cosmetically and didn't make any "I'm about to explode" noises so I picked it up. When I got it home I found that it did not have an air filter, just the metal housing. I installed a uni and rebuilt and rejected the carb with 1 size bigger main. It still wouldn't idle so I adjusted the valves and found that the exhaust was loose and the intake was tight tight tight! After adjusting both to specs is started in half a kick and idled perfectly, which is nice and all, but means that the intake valve had tightened up excessively, to the point of effecting compression, likely after a prolonged lean condition. Poor thing...I took it on a 7 hour ride and it ran like a champ, just smoked on start up, in high Rpms, and consistently when really hot. It didn't smoke a ton but about as much as a healthy 2-stroke. It didn't seem to smoke on deceleration at all. The plug is black but not fouled, lots of carbon buildup on the piston, and the muffler is sooty but not wet with oil. If feels like it has tons of compression. I know it's anyone's guess as to why it is smoking but I just wanted to see what everyone thinks. I have a compression tester coming in the mail, I'll post the results when it comes in. If the compression is within specs does that mean it's a valve guide/seal problem? If that is the case I'll just keep riding it but if the rings are worn I want to yank it apart before I score the cylinder too bad. Thanks for the input, let the guessing begin!