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About asian195

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  1. The 04 lower triple clamp won't work. Different forks between your 17 and 04. You only need the steering stem and press them into your 17 clamps.
  2. before buying anything, i would tear it apart to find exactly what went wrong.
  3. It revved real high then died. That sounds like it ran out of fuel. Butt that doesn't explain the knocking noise. Unless it was detonation that you heard. Pull the fuel line off the carb and open petcock. Getting fuel? Clean carb really well also. Just a thought. Sent from my SM-G920P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  4. This makes zero sense. Tell that to the vintage racers riding a 1976 Honda Elsinore. Sent from my SM-G920P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  5. Practice on your stand in your garage. Just pretend your jumping and go through the motions like you're really doing it. Sent from my SM-G920P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  6. If you're coming off a 125 2 stroke, then you'll have a learning curve. I know i did. Hell, look back at Ricky Carmichael when he switched from 125s to 250s. He spent more time on the ground than on the bike. Lol. The added power will want to pull you of the back of the bike, plus the added weight. Squeeze the bike with your knees to help eliminate the need to hold on tighter with your hands. Also, adjust the shifter up or down to fit your style better. It's your bike, make it fit you. Most seem to run their shifter level with their peg. I run mine higher. The bottom edge of my shifter tip is level with the top of my peg. Its what i found comfortable for me. Just keep practicing. Sent from my SM-G920P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  7. Holeshot devices do help. But as said above, if you don't have proper technique it won't help as much. The amount of throttle you launch with will vary depending on track conditions. Some tracks have less traction than others. And you don't necessarily just dump the clutch, you gotta feather it out. For the most part, you should be wide open throttle by the time your rear tire passes the gate and use the clutch to keep the front end down if needed. Practice this as often as you can. As far as feet position. That's a personal preference i feel. Some like 1 foot up some both feet down. I have short legs and have tried both ways. I found that with my left foot up i tend to lean to my right. So when the gate drops i launch to the right. So i start with both feet down, i practically set my balls on my gas cap and lean very far forward with my upper body. Keeping as much weight forward as possible. Throttle is at 3/4 mostly and when the gate drops i open it up to full, then slip the clutch as little as possible to keep the forward drive and not up. 2nd gear start and i shift to 3rd about 10 feet out of the gate. I keep my feet down until i shift and in 1 fluid motion i do 3 things; I lift my feet, shift to 3rd and slide my butt back to the middle of my seat all at the sane time. This takes patience and practice. My last race, labor day weekend, i actually short shifted 3rd to 4th while everyone else just wrung 3rd out and used the torque of the bike to get the holeshot. And that was from the far outside gate. Once you got this down, buy a holeshot device and you'll be able to launch even harder. But technique must be learned first. Otherwise you'll just be masking bad form. This is for dirt starts. Concrete starts i sit more neutral on my seat and stay more upright with my upper body. This puts more weight on the rear tire for traction on the slippery concrete. Also use less throttle and more clutch to eliminate just spinning your tire. Sent from my SM-G920P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  8. I second the linkage bearings. Remove the shock and lift swingarm up and down. Sent from my SM-G920P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  9. When i ride or race, I'm pretty good at looking forward except when it comes to ruts. I stare at the rut the entire time, especially in corners. Where should i be looking in a rutted corner? What's the proper eye technique from start to finish in a rutted corner? Sent from my SM-G920P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  10. Watch YouTube videos. Very easy to do. Just need a couple specialty tools. Cap wrench if their SSS forks and seal driver. Sent from my SM-G920P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  11. I have completely replaced every part in my clutch over the years on my 02 yz250. It still does exactly as you described. And I've had my bike since it was new. I start a race with zero play in my lever and finish with excess play. But as you stated it tightens up as it cools down. I've always ran Belray 80w. But recently switched to mobile 1 4t. We'll see... Sent from my SM-G920P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  12. ok cool. Thanks. will do next time i have them apart.
  13. 2 things. first, since we've been talking about float, how do you measure it? i know numroe said this, but wouldn't that flex the shims? would measuring the gap between the last shim/spacer and spring cup be ideal? Second, i got a set of .47 springs from a friend for free, so i installed those and rode with them yesterday. WOW, what a difference. They didn't dive through the stroke like they used to, which in turn let the forks absorb braking bumps so much better. i did not make any valving changes and started with the clickers in the same position i had them at with the old springs. (1 change at a time). had to slow the rebound down a couple clicks in and went 2 clicks out on comp also. the only change i made was started with lower oil height @ 325mm and never bottomed out once. i even purposely flat landed and cased a couple jumps, just to feel it out. still about 1.5" from full bottom. These springs are about 1 size to stiff, from Racetech calculator. the only negative thing i noticed was flat rough sweeping corner, the forks deflected off the bumps and pushed me outside. i will continue to play with the clickers and test. Thanks for your help everyone.
  14. I've read a lot of the suspension threads and float always had me confused because i didn't know what it was. So if I'm reading this correctly, float is the gap between the piston and first "sealing" shim? If yes, i guess i assumed the shims were tight to the piston.
  15. Being I'm new to this i want to be sure. By crossover shim, you're talking about the 25mm shim, correct? And should i completely remove it or put it against the spacers to keep shim height the same?