doug the slug

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About doug the slug

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  1. If the cam timing was off when you got the bike, it's possible that the cam sprocket has somehow slipped on the cam itself. They're a press fit and I've had this happen to my YZ450 after it exploded. Was there any sign of piston to valve contact? Also, make sure that there's the correct amount of oil in it - too much and they are also hard to start.
  2. Last night Carson Brown came up to Canada and won the Pro Lights class against some tough competition at the Arenacross in Armstrong, BC. He was on a Kawasaki but does anyone know if it's the 2 Stroke or not?
  3. Before you do any more jetting changes I would first try a float valve leak down test. Usually I do them with the carb on the bench (clamped in a vice to keep it upright) but that's not really necessary. All you have to do is fill the float bowl with gas through a short piece of fuel line that is see through. With the fuel almost to the top of the fuel line you can easily monitor the level. If it keeps dropping then you know the float valve (ie. needle & seat) aren't working right - a steady level is what you want. If all else fails, give this a try so you'll know for sure if it's over fuelling. Hope this helps...
  4. I doubt it, usually the original wiring from warn is good - you'll be fine!
  5. Did you have the transmission assembled into the left crankcase half first? When I rebuilt my CRF450X, that's how the manual said to do it.
  6. Hey, that's good news! Electrical failures aren't too common that are the modules' fault. They can be tough to diagnose....good that you stuck with it and can now ride that 30 year old! No such luck for us out here yet - the forest fire situation in the interior of B.C. has a total ban on off roading this summer & it's driving us nuts!!
  7. Sounds like it's either the connections at the box or the cdi itself....since you already tried another module I'd suspect the wiring in that connector.
  8. Take a close look at the rubber diaphragm that connects to the slide - those are vacuum operated and are very sensitive. When you open the throttle with the cable, the second slide has to lift too or you won't have any power to speak of. Sometimes there is a poor seal where the rubber meets the carb body - try some grease in the groove to see if this helps. Little problems in carbs really cause a big running issue on a single cylinder engine!
  9. Sounds good, hope the issue is over with! Sometimes with electrical you think you have it, then it comes back to bite you again....if it does crap out again, keep checking for a faulty wire that might be intermittent. I've had some that were broken inside of the insulation - looked ok but still made poor connection. Keep wiggling things to see if there's a change. Good luck & good for you to keep the old beast alive!
  10. The other test you should do is check the stator coil isn't grounded out - there shouldn't be continuity between it and the engine cases. Other than that I suspect you're looking for a wire or connector that looks good but isn't 100% - you have to keep checking them for high resistance somewhere. Does the system use a key switch at all? Not sure if you've bypassed it if there is one....
  11. So it sounds like your external ignition coil is likely ok, now it's time to test the stator coils. They are behind the flywheel on the left side of the motor - you should see the wiring that comes from there, you can test them without taking anything apart except the wires' connector. I don't have the specs in front of me but you usually test for resistance between the wires and to check if there's a short to ground.
  12. You'll have to go through the wiring very carefully & check all your connections and ground wires for good, clean contact. After that it will take testing using a meter on the stator coils - even good test results don't always mean the part is good though....sometimes you have to try a known, good working one.
  13. If the external coil and the CDI module have been tested and ruled out, then the stator would need to be checked next. That is assuming that the problem is electrical and not something else. Are you sure that there is a lack of spark when it won't start or is this just a guess?
  14. I recall doing one on an air cooled motor, the rear case cover had to be removed. Pretty sure you needed the motor out to make it easier. Don't remember that the cases needed splitting which would be good for you since then the top end doesn't need to come off again. Your quad isn't the liquid cooled Rubicon, is it? All the others would be air cooled which makes the work less complicated.
  15. That motor should be like most Honda quads and has a cam chain to run the cam/valve system. I believe it's in the bottom end so you will be looking at a motor removal and teardown to fix it. You can likely download a service manual from a Honda ATV website if you haven't done so already.