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yojuan

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About yojuan

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    TT Newbie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  1. I recently picked up a 2006 CRF250R. There has been some heavy handed wrenching on the bike, so it took a lot of work to rebuild. I need to get a carb float bowl drain screw and bolt, but neither are available from Honda individually. It is listed on the parts diagram as only being available with a complete float bowl, but unfortunately that doesn't appear to be available from Honda anymore. I bought both parts from Jets R Us, but the drain screw has different thread and the holes in the drain bolt have to be modified. Any suggestions for alternate parts (a part # would be great) that would work? OEM drain bolt on the left has 4 slots, FCR-MX part from Jets R Us has 2 small holes. Bolt fits, but will need some Dremel work to open the holes up: Destroyed OEM drain screw on the left, Jets R Us FCR-MX part on the right, which has different thread and no o-ring.
  2. yojuan

    Choose 1 carb

    They have a banner at the bottom, free international shipping over $500 AUD
  3. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    Just realized I hadn't updated this thread in a while. Following up from my last post, I replaced the #158 main with a #155, which improved the misfire at WOT to about the same extent as riding with the air box side cover off - a lot better but still there. I'm hesitant to go any smaller than a #155, so I'll ride it for a while and monitor things. With that in mind last Sunday, I took off to test the bike on the closest dirt track to where I live. This was one of those rides that just get longer and longer, so I ended up doing a good 120 miles into the mountains on a mix of asphalt, dirt and some rougher stuff. I didn't notice the misfire at 5,000', (but I didn't specifically check) so maybe the motor is still running a little rich? Entering Palomar Mountain SP from Nate Harrison grade: At the Mesa Grande Store, a well known landmark. Kinda hard to see without zooming in on the pic, but the Big Red Paint Shaker had already decided to lose some weight by getting rid of the muffler bolt on the frame! Thinking back it did seem that the muffler got a little louder at some point. Thanks to a good supply I keep on hand from boltdepot.com, the bolt got replaced when I got home. After this I went down Santa Ysabel truck trail, popular with the 4x4 crowd and a little more challenging. The stock 15x45 gearing SUCKS for anything remotely technical as most have mentioned! I can see why the 2nd gear mod is popular also, that chasm between 1st & 2nd gets annoying pretty quick. Got something in the mail today which will hopefully help I'm very happy with the IRC TR8 Battle Rally tires. They run well on asphalt and grip well on the dirt. I checked the oil level when I got back home, motor doesn't appear to be chugging oil, but I will keep an eye on it. I'm around 6' tall, so even with ProTaper CR High bend bars on, I'm uncomfortable standing, so I'll likely upgrade to 2" risers and a 1-1/8" bar. Also plan to install proper hand guards in place of the stock ones. Looking forward to the riding season here in SoCal!
  4. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    Did some debugging tonight on the XRL. Took a ride with the side cover off, assuming if the misfire/sputtering goes away the bike is running too rich and I should drop down a main jet size? The sputtering was definitely better, and only happened in 4th & 5th WOT. I put the side cover back on, and it definitely gets worse in 3rd-5th WOT. As a reminder, I have the stock carb with Dave's mods (verified to be correct), 55 pilot & 158 main jets, de-smogged and de-snorkeled. Supertrapp IDS2 with 8 disks and UNI filter. I ordered a #155 main jet, will try that next
  5. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    I'll pull the (new) spark plug to check for any help with the mixture. My carb doesn't have an adjustable needle, but it has been shimmed according to Dave's mods.I believe a #155 is the next step down from #158, haven't seen any #156 jets. I've tried all sorts of violence with the inserts in the Clarke tank, no luck so far ☹️
  6. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    Got most of the items checked off the list to take the XRL out for a ride: Replaced the tires with IRC TR* Battle Rally front 3.00-21 and rear 4.50-18. The rear tire is a little too wide in hindsight, should use the 4.00-18. Why can't tire manufacturers standardize this stuff! Replaced the front sprocket with a Fritzco 15t and JT rear sprocket & x-ring chain Replaced all the sliders and guides on the swingarm - all OEM and $$$ Replaced the battery with a spare cheapie I had, will get something better later. Starter cranks much faster now Replaced the front disk pads with OEM Flushed the nasty old brake fluid front & rear Did another oil change, cleaned the screen and replaced all o-rings and drain plug washers. Nothing in the screen which is comforting. Greased the swingarm bearings There was also time to make her purty: Replaced the stumpy front fender with an Acerbis XR400 fender. Don't really like the look, may use a CRF150R fender instead Replaced the rear taillight with a WPS XRR style. Too bad they stopped making the model with the license plate light. Made a license plate mount with 4 layers of black ABS I had in the garage, laminated together using acetone. Mounted using the stock taillight rubber mounts - pretty sturdy LED turn signals as I had to fix the POs botched wiring anyway Replaced foot rests with the recommended eBay model. Had to grind away some metal to make it work as others have mentioned. Cleaned the black spray paint 🤬 of the tail bag using CitriStrip - that stuff is amazing! Good news is she runs great! The only thing I notice is a slight misfire at WOT - anyone have an idea what to check? The carb has Dave's mods as I mentioned earlier, a 55 pilot, 162 main when I cleaned it. I replaced the main jet with a 158. Still have to check valve clearance and address a few more cosmetics. In the meantime I'll do several more rides close to home to make sure everything's 100%. One major annoyance is that the two bolts on the bottom of the Clarke 4 gallon tank where the braces attach, are seized. It feels like the insert is spinning, but the bolt definitely isn't moving. I've read that you should spin the bolt for a minute or two to soften the plastic then pull out the whole insert. May want to have a spare tank on hand before I do that!
  7. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    Good points you bring up! The filter is well oiled, probably looks dry cause it's brand new? I cleaned the oil strainer and the oil filter screen when I had the crankcase cover off. Will clean the strainer again and put in a new o-ring when I change the oil & filter.
  8. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    Made good progress this weekend. A machinist friend recommended I use "crocus cloth" to polish the mainshaft, using a shoelace wrapped around the sandpaper to spin it around the shaft. Worked like a charm, although the mainshaft was pretty smooth to start with. Rebuilt the clutch with new OEM plates and it works fine! Done! I plan to run the motor for a few minutes then change the oil again to get rid of any remaining clutch basket bits. I did notice the PO has stripped the lower oil filter cap bolt - GRRR!! I spent several hours with degreaser just cleaning all the crap of the bike, amazing how much crud accumulates if you let it. There were a few things I needed to change before running the bike. First was to get rid of the K&N air filter and install a UNI Filter Next I changed the old fuel line with some quality stuff I had lying around, I'm sure this will be good for a few HP and MPH I also cleaned the petcock on the Clarke tank and installed new gaskets, the filter screen was surprisingly clean. I repacked the Supertrapp IDS2 and cleaned it up with a maroon Scotchbrite pad, looks much better! I also had to drill & tap new holes in the aluminum tip as the PO had butchered these. Surprisingly Supertrapp has run out of replacement IDS2 name plates, so this one will have to do. They did send me new rubber mounts for free though! The muffler is MUCH quieter now after I replaced the packing. While waiting for the last clutch parts, I took care of some more cosmetics. I stripped the paint off the painted side covers, but they were beyond rescuing sadly. eBay to rescue with a used set of side panels in decent condition from the same guy I got the clutch basket from. Once I dumped the stale gas in my wife's car and put a fresh gallon in the tank, the bike fired up immediately. Success! I couldn't resist a short spin around the block - runs really well I'm happy to say, no smoke visible at all. There are still a few things that have to be done before I take it out for a good test ride: new chain & sprockets, all the sliders on the swingarm are completely worn, it needs a new battery, new front disk pads and most of all I have a set of IRC TR-8 Battle Rallys on the way, somewhat similar to the Dunlop D606, which I got a good deal on. I'm not a fan of the stumpy front fender, so I have a replacement on order. Also plan to repaint the rusty header and s-bend for the Supertrapp. Then a set of handlebar guards, new taillight, better foot pegs and many more I'm sure! 💸
  9. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    Will do Neil! I'm in RB, so just south of you. Hopefully the clutch turns out to be ok, then I have to change tires, sprockets, chain, front brake pads, check the valves and it should be rideable.
  10. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    While waiting for parts, I violated my own rules and addressed some cosmetics. The speedometer is really badly scratched, I assume the PO liked riding with a huge bunch of keys bouncing around. Sorry for the crappy photo, was trying to get a shot of the mileage: The side with the indicator lights wasn't as badly beaten up, so I could get away with 1,000 grit wet-and-dry and worked my way up to 2,000 grit. On the speedometer side, however, it took a lot more! I had to start with 320 grit up to 2,000. Afterwards I used Novus Scratch Remover, first #3 then #2 on a buffing wheel to finish it off. I would call this a success: 😎
  11. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    BTW, my wife suspects I like working on bikes more than riding them and she may be right. Even though I'm not a fan of street bikes (this one was my first in over 30 years), here's a look at my previous project I just sold to fund the XRL: a 1992 Yamaha XJ600S Seca II This was also a non-runner which I picked up for $200. I replaced, rebuilt and repainted pretty much everything on this motorcycle, except the motor. I probably won't go all OCD like this on the XRL, but I can't promise anything 🤪
  12. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    I have a new Fritzco sprocket which I'll try. Thanks for the advice, I'm going to polish the mainshaft and test fit the new bushing. If I split that crankcase I'm likely opening Pandora's box which I can't afford right now with 2 kids in college! The motor didn't smoke at all when I fired it up after sitting for a few months. I'd much prefer to get it running so I can enjoy the great fall weather here around San Diego.
  13. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    The blueing may be from me heating the gear in attempt to get it off the mainshaft. The bike has done just under 24,000 miles, which means it's probably time right? I just checked the countershaft (in the previous post), that probably could do with replacing also.
  14. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    May have found another reason to pull the motor apart. PO had an OEM sprocket on, has a LOT of movement on the countershaft EDIT: I should probably try a new Fritzco sprocket on the countershaft first. The edges on the splines actually don't look too bad to me now that I've stared at them for a while, they're not rounded much. The current sprocket's very worn, so it's splines are likely gone too.
  15. yojuan

    The true cost of a cheap XR650L

    Decided to try removing the seized & fused gear/bushing combo from the mainshaft today. Even though I will likely be replacing the mainshaft, I still have to attempt to get the bushing off, otherwise it may be very difficult to get the mainshaft out of the right crankcase. Plan of action is to cut 3 evenly spaced notches into the gear then use a 3 jaw puller to pull it off the mainshaft and possibly do the same with the bushing. Notches done. I used a 4" angle grinder with a metal cutoff blade As the puller's center screw fits inside the mainshaft, I turned up a little adapter on the lathe to give it something to push against And here we go Success! Even better both the bushing & the gear pulled off together. Here's where I need advice: The shaft is actually pretty smooth, I can feel some damage on the inside of the bushing. Should I polish the mainshaft and risk refitting the new clutch basket? Hard to take a picture of the inside of the bushing, but damage is somewhat visible
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