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About wwguy

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  1. wwguy

    Any way to tame down the xtrainer?

    +1 for the G2 throttle tamer tube with 400 cam. I put one on my 4T WR250R a few years ago to lessen the off-idle jerkiness inherent to some EFI bikes. It's fantastic for low speed riding, especially off-idle. IMHO there' not much more you can do to tame the engine itself down, as the the PV is already 3.5 turns in in stock position and the Xtrainer already has a tiny expansion chamber for a 300cc engine. You want to control the power curve, which is done pretty well already, rather than choke it into submission. I'm with weantright on the gearing. Taller gears may increase ground speed, but this comes at the expense of more granular control at low speeds. Especially if she's a bit shy about getting on the throttle off-idle in tight or steep terrain. Stall outs followed by tip-overs are no fun for new riders still working on developing new skills. Taller gears and faster ground speed are east to add later when she's more confident on the bike. Not to beat a dead horse (too much more) but I'd also do something to improve the stock forks if I was going to put my wife on my Xtrainer. Front wheel deflection and fork dive on braking were barely tolerable by me, and sometimes not at all in more aggressive terrain. I couldn't imagine putting my wife on them and then expect her to become a better rider by following me around as I ride on a better suspension. If anything it should be the other way around. New riders need well-behaved horses, which is pretty much the point of your post. I really like the feedback I'm reading about AMP's Xtrainer fork upgrades from riders over on the Facebook Xtrainer group. Also the least expensive valving upgrade I've seen so far.
  2. wwguy

    Tubliss removed from BYOB

    You're killing me Smalls. Tubliss would never be successful if they sold a system that left a quart of water sloshing around and resulted in corroded wheels over time. The video clearly shows a quart-ish size container that's still 2/3 or more full when she's done. But that's a moot point because the water doesn't stay in the tire anyway. (I usually put twice that much in mine.) Most of the water is displaced when the tire is bounced around like shown at 6:00 in the video. More is displaced when the tire and bladder are aired up, and the small remainder trickles out around spokes and valve stems as the bike sits for the next couple of days. I've had to replace used tires with damaged beads that wouldn't seal with Tubliss after a couple days of watching them slowly lose pressure after installation. Aside from a damp surfactant film on the inner surfaces of the tire and wheel there's no residual water in the tire. All tires I've removed from Tubliss after normal tire life (50 to 60 hours for me) have been bone dry inside. Every. Single. Tire.
  3. wwguy

    Tubliss removed from BYOB

    Have you actually seen corrosion from this? I just spooned my 3rd front tire and 5th or 6th rear tire onto the same Tubliss setup I've been running on my 2016 since the first week I brought it home 2 1/2 years ago. I squirt that soapy water anywhere and everywhere it'll go... up to the point that it's squirting out of every place it possibly can when I air up the the Tubliss bladder and tire. The inside of my rims still looks great. No sign of corrosion anywhere and I've never discovered residual moisture from previous tire changes when installing new ones. I like the soapy water because it's less messy, less expensive, and more readily available than slime tire sealant.
  4. wwguy

    Tubliss removed from BYOB

  5. wwguy

    Show me your...BETA !

    IMHO it's actually more "just east" than "just south", with emphasis on "just" in either case... but I digress. The pool is open and we've got plenty of room to ride. Riding is on USFS land, maintained with your tax dollars too! More info at these links: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/boise/recarea/?recid=5103 https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5026618.pdf https://www.riderplanet-usa.com/atv/trails/info/idaho_12700/ride_d803.htm Here's another shot of the Danskin area from a ride earlier this year. (Would have been a sweet spot for another drone shot!)
  6. Wow. Either enduro riding is a lot different than trail riding or the stock Keihin carb is a lot more piggish with fuel than I remember. I recently rode the mountain single-track profile below on my 2016 Xtrainer 300 fitted with a Lectron carb and only consumed 1.2 gallons of premix in 56 miles. And I'm easily 240 lbs. fully geared up, plus another 13 lbs. or so for my chainsaw and carrier plate.
  7. wwguy

    Show me your...BETA !

    Ha ha! I like being a statistical outlier. Also makes for interesting trailhead conversations with curious orange pumpkin fans.
  8. wwguy

    Show me your...BETA !

    Nice! I think I can see you from here, LOL! (For those following along the location for this awesome video is under the red arrow in my photo below, taken last spring.) Seriously though, great shot and great perspective. That's such a scenic area, especially in spring when it's green and the wildflowers are going off like fireworks. The drone thing is way cool. I'm going to have to step up my ride videos game.
  9. wwguy

    Wr250r handlebar clamp spacing

    Just checked my HDB invoice from a few years back. The HDB top clamp for the WRR uses the "100x38/40mm Bolt Pattern".
  10. wwguy

    Perfect womans bike? You decide...

    I don't have any experience with the other bikes mentioned but I think the Xtrainer 300 in stock form has very tame and manageable power characteristics. IMHO, unlike the suspension, this characteristic does a great job of ticking the "entry level" box without compromise to performance. It's also very easy to open up the power to performance levels very near the 300RR by winding out the RH PV adjuster, removing the LH PV spacer, and/or adding a Gnarly, Fatty, or Factory pipe.
  11. wwguy

    Perfect womans bike? You decide...

    I'm probably getting off topic a bit since the OP is asking in reference to a specific rider that he knows well, but I agree with the above 100%. In my case I learned that the best "bike" for my wife was an ATV. But I know several local female riders and their abilities differ greatly, just like their male counterparts. I just saw the video below yesterday and it seems appropriate to share here now. Megan and most of her female riding posse are better riders than I'll ever hope to be. So much for "the weaker sex"...
  12. wwguy

    Perfect womans bike? You decide...

    I didn't like the Xtrainer's inferior stock suspension at all and couldn't imagine putting my wife on it. That'd be like putting a beginning horseback rider on a poorly trained horse prone to misbehaving. Sure , if you ride it slowly and carefully in non-technical terrain of manner it does great. But when you open it up a bit in gnarlier terrain, where a good suspension matters most, the rodeo starts (been there, done that.) That said, I love my Xtrainer now with a different suspension under it and have enjoyed over 200 hours on it. I have a local friend who bought an Xtrainer as an upgrade bike for his girlfriend last year. It didn't take long before she was complaining about deflection on our narrow Idaho mountain singletrack. He put his KTM 300 XC aside for a bit and rode her Xtrainer to see what she was talking about. Her Xtrainer forks are currently at All Moto Performance in Montana getting rebuilt with upgraded valving. Aaron , the owner at AMP, spent a significant amount of time and effort examining the Olle forks after buying an Xtrainer for his girlfriend. He shares his observations, experiences, and suggestions for upgrades in this public Facebook post. I haven't ridden on them myself but several riders over on the Xtrainer Facebook group have had Aaron revalve their Xtrainer forks and all reviews have been very positive so far.
  13. wwguy

    2018 300rr over oiling?

    Have you tried the fatty by chance? Just curious on the difference between it and the Gnarly? I've only tried the Gnarly. I was looking mostly for more bottom end to help with extended climbing on Idaho mountain singletrack. Some of my rides have 4000' to 5000' elevation gain. I was expecting power gains, but what I got literally surprised the hell out of me. I bolted the Gnarly on one hot August evening after work last year and couldn't help but take it for a quick spin around the driveway and street in front of my house to see if I could feel an immediate difference. Since I was only going to blip the throttle a few times in 1st gear I didn't bother to gear up properly and just rode in my shorts and Chaco sandals (yes, dumb... but it was "just for a minute".) This is probably also a good point to mention that my PV adjuster was still wound out flush from my preference for the stock pipe, but I still had the PV spacer in place. So I rode across the pavement in 1st gear and blipped the throttle as I rode up over a 6" high landscaping curb, like I've done a hundred times before, and was quite surprised to find myself staring at blue sky as the front end came up and the bike started to loop over backwards on me. I had to pull the ejection handle and bail out before the bike got on top of me, but I still got a little scraped up from the pavement. My wife and neighbors were standing in the driveway staring at me like "what in the hell is he doing now?" Since then I've ridden a couple thousand trail miles on the Gnarly and I'm a big fan (and a bit more respectful) of the power. I'm currently riding with the PV turned in a couple of turns. Flush is too much mojo for me.
  14. wwguy

    2018 300rr over oiling?

    Fixed it for ya. An Xtrainer with a Gnarly or Fatty pipe, PV spacer removed, PV spring wound out a bit, and a properly set up carb with consistent oil ratio is a completely different machine than what comes out of the factory crate.
  15. wwguy

    2018 300rr over oiling?

    It's true. More oil means better ring seal, increased compression, and more power. The practical threshold is determined by a combination of of jetting and riding RPM. I had great performance with minimal spooge in my Xtrainer with 40:1 for a year and I know other local 2T riders that are running 32:1. I only switched to 50:1 because most of my riding is slower technical, resulting in cooler engine temps and a bit more spooge at low RPM. This article sums it up pretty well, including the dyno summary pasted below: "I have run Dyno tests on this subject, as a school project in Tech School. We used a Dynojet dynamometer, and used a fresh, broken in top-end for each test. We used specially calibrated jets to ensure the fuel flow was identical with each different ratio, and warmed the engine at 3000 rpm for 3 minutes before each run. Our tests were performed in the rpm range of 2500 to 9000 rpm, with the power peak of our test bike (an ’86 YZ 250) occurring at 8750 rpm. We tested at 76 degrees F, at 65% relative humidity. We started at 10:1, and went to 100:1. Our results showed that a two-stroke engine makes its best power at 18:1. Any more oil than that, and the engine ran poorly, because we didn’t have any jets rich enough to compensate for that much oil in the fuel. The power loss from 18:1 to 32:1 was approximately 2 percent. The loss from 18:1 to 50:1 was nearly 9 percent. On a modern 250, that can be as much as 4 horsepower. The loss from 18:1 to 100:1 was nearly 18 percent. The reason for the difference in output is simple. More oil provides a better seal between the ring and the cylinder wall."