Werloc

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About Werloc

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Guns, Guitars, Motorcycles, and Fly Fishing

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  1. Not me, I'm not looking....LOL. I have just about everything except the bibg bore kit on my bike. I'm not a newb on bikes or the klx. You can see my website for upgrades. I was talking about plastics, fork sleves, etc, and that the klx is the leat popular out of the dual sport bikes. Plus they weren't in the US in 08, and since 2014. http://www.werloc.net/kawasaki
  2. There isn't much at all for this bike. It's not that popular, period.
  3. This forum isn't really active for these bikes. Your much better off reading and posting on the Kawasaki forums in the KLR section. You'll get 5 to 10 replies in an hour over there vs maybe 1 reply in a week here. I don't know if its the same as my KLX 250, but would think its the same. Why would they make it any different on the same brand bike with models being close. Anyway, what I did (like hundreds of others) was unplug and remove the switch unit on kickstand. Follow wires from that switch up frame to where its plugged in under the seat. Unplug the switch, then either jump a wire lead connecting both wires in that plug, or cut that plug off, strip back both wires, and connect them together. I cut my plug off and soldered my wires together, then coved with heat shrink preventing any possible issues out on the trail. I also did the same thing with my clutch safety switch. I don't remember if the clutch needs to be jumped like the kickstand switch, or if it just needs to be unplugged. Its been so long now. Look into that if you do it.
  4. Are you original owner? How long have you had the bike? Is it possible previous owner did the MCM...???
  5. The KLX250S is over cooled as it is. They tend to run much cooler than any of the other bikes out there since it was originally a 300. If your having overheating issues, then you have a different issue like running to lean, etc.
  6. Getting the correct jet kit will depend on your elevation and where you live. So your question can not be answered without that info. Not everyone is the same.
  7. Ebay has everything most of the time for that year.
  8. Ebay had tons of them for your bike. Just about any color you want. I've had a blue set on my watch list for about 8 months now.
  9. All my mods are on my website here: http://www.werloc.net/kawasaki/index.html
  10. Try ebay. I've "Always" found whatever I needed on ebay used. If not, then while waiting for one to be listed, for now, you can easily make one for temparary use just to get by.
  11. Yeah, not worried about having a bolt in that spot. Between the 2 other bolts holding the tank, the tank being very tight in between the frame rails, plus the radiator shrouds holding it down as well, that tank isn't moving at all. It's very solid without that bolt. I had to lube the tank just to push it down into the frame. It will be perfectly fine without that one bolt. I will let ya know if I have a problem with it.
  12. Ok, Update on my bike, it's fixed. It was a bad coil. Bought a used coil on ebay for $20 bucks, put it on my bike and took it out today for a solid, hard, non stop 1 hour test ride with no issues. Thanks to all that tried to help. I appreciate it....
  13. You guys post answers without ever reading what was asked?....lol It's the tank bolt to the frame. So why cut my shroud? BTW, I spun it with a socket on my drill both ways until loose, and it pulled out easy. Thanks guys.
  14. Yeah, That's probbably what I'm going to end up doing. Just pry it out.
  15. Ok, So some of you may have seen my thread about my electrical issue. When I went to remove my 3 gal IMS plastic tank, the one bolt on bottom side right is tight into the threads on the bronze or brass threaded bolt insert. When trying to remove that bolt, the metal insert is spinning in the plastic, so I can't get that bolt out in order to remove my tank. I know this has been a problem for some of you. I do use greese or Anti-Seize on them, but this one isn't coming out. I must have over tightened it. Anyway, has anyone had this happen, and do you have any ideas on how to remove this bolt without cutting that tab on my frame? I removed my coil, but it was a pain in the ass getting to it with tank still on the bike. I will need to remove the tank soon anyway soon when I check my valve clearance. Also maybe a BB 351 kit too. I'm wondering if I just spin the piss out of it with my air wrench to really loosen it up, then pry and pop it out? But I can't chance having a leak. I don't think this will cause a leak, but to late if it does. Thats $270 down the drain. Any ideas? What did you do??? Thank You, I appreciate any ideas or help with this....