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About jeddclampette

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  1. jeddclampette

    How to tell if my piston only needs rings changed

    you can deburr it by using a bigger drill bit. Try a 1/4" dia drill bit and just spin it lightly over the surface just to remove the burrs. that should give that hole a nice clean chamfer. as for whether to reuse, if you were just trail riding, I'd say, yea, clean it up and reuse it. but if you're rippin' it up and WFO on the pipe on a track, I wouldn't chance it. just go w/ a new piston setup. It's alot cheaper than to deal w/ a piston that could potentially shattter in pieces while you're WFO.
  2. when you flip a tire that's been scalloped like that, you do gain some forward direction traction, but lose rearward traction (ie, no brakes). Braking is similar to rotating the wheel in the reverse direction. With the tire flipped, the rubber needed to contact the surface is not there. So keep that in mind, and don't forget...The front brake =70% total braking power.
  3. jeddclampette

    Dirt Trick Sprockets

    As most of you may already know, The CR250 came stock w/ a non o-ring chain. If you go w/ an 0 or an X ring chain, it's wider, so it may rub against the side of the case. If this is the case, there's a thin spacer from honda that can be added behind the CS sprocket to space the chain out more to prevent this OR, go with the narrower "T" chain posted above, and that will prevent any rubbing against the side case. This VT chain is unique in that it's narrower at the rollers and the "T" shaped rings are also narrower in cross section, so the whole chain is narrower than the O or X ring. And as a benefit of the VT being narrower.... it's lighter too.
  4. jeddclampette

    Dirt Trick Sprockets

    For that premium sprocket, I would go with the DID 520 VT "T" RING chain. Narrower and lighter than an O ring. Lasts a very long time. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Product Description DID VT2 Narrow Racing Chain Narrow sealed chain with newly developed T-ring Narrow width of T-ring allows chain to be used originally equipped with non-O-ging Chain. Comes with connecting link Great for the RD's and RZ's 520x120 links only, Cut down as needed.
  5. jeddclampette

    Help with plastics on a 2003 CR250

    Fuel tank is the same tank for all 2002-2007 yrs CR250, so you'd be wasting your $$ getting the '05 tank. So....yes, '05 tank will work on your'03 frame. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- the 2005-2007 radiators are thicker than 2002-2004, so when you make the change, this is an added bonus. And with '05-'07 radiators, you will need dedicated '05-'07 radiator grills/louvers/slats. Your '03 grills won't work w/ new rads. and, possibly the '05 lower rad hose on the LS radiator may be needed as well b/c the down tube may have bends differently than the early radiators.
  6. jeddclampette

    Would you use this part?

    hate to say it, but you hardly have any splines left in that hole. The ring gear needs some meat to hold it in there real tight. it may be time for a new basket ...
  7. jeddclampette

    My new, or new to me, 2000 CR250

    Congrats on diving right in there...that's quite an accomplishment. From your pics, those finger marks indented into the inner clutch hub (not the basket), at 3 o'clock position; will eventually cause your clutch metal plates to stick. There's grooves on the back flange of the hub (that mates to the 1st clutch friction disc). That surface should be very flat, mirror like. At some point, this clutch hub will need replacing. while you're at it, check the condition of your clutch cushions. Get a penny or a dime, wedge it between the basket's gear and the idler gear meshing it. then try to rotate the clutch basket. If it moves, like video below, the clutch cushions (rubber pads hidden in the back side between the gear and the basket) are shot. You can leave it like that, but it's real hard to find neutral, and shifting is notchy and stiff, and when you stick bike in gear, it'll lurch forward. If you're going to keep the bike, plan on replacing clutch basket down the road. They're about $250 new, not cheap.
  8. jeddclampette

    Cr500 on trails??

    yea, i rode mine in trails, 12 yrs ago when I didn't know better.... even raced it in a WORCS nat'l. that swung through TX (Paige, TX of all places!) It can be done, but that's just way too much motor for trail work. A 500 needs room to stretch its legs. I'm 2x faster and have more fun on a CR250. And my kicker leg is happier -a 500 will blow out your knee if it kick backs and backfire same time.
  9. jeddclampette

    Is Spark Arrestor on 2001 CR250 stock muffer/tailpipe?

    there's no spark arrester on the stock muffler, b/c a CR's an MX bike= don't require spark arrest. The turbine core is what i'm using. No complaints. works fine.
  10. jeddclampette

    how to read CR250 Mikuni needle jet size

    38-70: 38 =Length from tip of needle to start of taper=38mm 70= Diameter of cylindrical portion of needle= 2.70 mm 38-73:. 38 =Length from tip of needle to start of taper=38mm 73= Diameter of cylindrical portion of needle = 2.73 mm thus, the 38-73 needle is a leaner needle than the 38-70, or put it another way.... the 38-70 is going to be one big FAT RICH needle compared to a 38-73. Nothing wrong w/ that if that's what you are after.
  11. jeddclampette

    2004 cr125 JD pwk airstryker??

    The TMX does require more effort with matching the pilot w/ the needle w/ the main, but once all the circuits are in balance and dialed in, I don't think the TMX is any more difficult to keep it jetted than the PWK. OThers don't agree, and that's OK. All I know is once mine got jetted, I rode on the TMX for 3-4 yrs w/o it ever loading up on me or fouling plugs and it never failed to start on 1st or 2nd kick. Never touched the TMX jetting again thereafter, except to rotate the a/f and idle screw as needed. The main reason I'm now using the PWK is b/c I've gotten away from MX'ing and I'm just trail riding, so I went w/ a smaller 36mm PWK vs. 38 TMX for smoother throttle response in the low to mid openings, which is 90% of where I throttle. And I'm still adjusting the a/f screw at least once or twice during a day's ride w/ the PWK, just like the TMX.
  12. jeddclampette

    2004 cr125 JD pwk airstryker??

    Your bike will run w/ the TPS not used. no probs. I could be wrong, but I think the carb you have -w/ the TPS -is the latest version mikuni TMX ? If so, It got completely redesigned for '04, and doesn't conform w/ any of the parts nor design configurations like the older Mikuni for which most, if not all, jetting complaints are based off of. If yours look like this, then it's the good one. and as such, the new mikuni tmx vs. the airstryker isn't all that much of an improvement. The airstryker is an improvement if you want better throttle response like for offroad (Keihin). Otherwise, the Mikuni TMX carb makes more power, esp. in overrev.
  13. jeddclampette

    New cr250 owner

    re: bad fuel economy ATC250 nailed it. you're leaking fuel somewhere, and 9 out of 10, it's through the carb. Doubtful the motor could burn that much fuel in such a short distance; otherwise your plug would have fouled out in no time. re: low/no power: Is it easy or difficult to kick down on the kicker to start it? If easy, do a compression test. The kicker should have a pronounced kick back if your top end is fresh. Next take the exhaust pipe out and shine a light to look into the exhaust opening of the cylinder. rotate engine so piston and rings are shown through the exhaust opening. Do you see your piston coated black below the piston ring line? If so, you many have blow back, a condition of worn ring(s) and or out of round cylinder wall. Either way, a fresh top end and hone will get that power back. Next, check your reeds . If they don't look nice and new, then you'll lose power when trying ... "to ring it out like crazy to keep it alive up a big hill climb."
  14. jeddclampette

    PWK Jetting cr250 06

    ...to add some jetting spice into the mix.... For slow single track riding, ie, averaging 20-25 mph typical of most enduro type stuff, I like my jetting tb on the rich side in the low to mid revs to get me more traction with loose, slippery hill climbs and smoother pulling power as I'm snaking through tight trees . In many tight technical sections and rocky climbs I ride on, a crisp throttle -one that cleans out quick for acceleration through the more open stuff - unfortunately will have my front wheel coming off the ground everytime I throttle through the tough stuff. Needles that starts out richer earlier in the throttle opening and then tapers more lean later in the throttle opening works better for single track riding w/ the tough technical rocky slick hill climbs thrown in b/c they don't seem to be as abrupt as they transition into getting on the pipe. I find the single taper needles better vs. the double and triple needle tapers like the NAFF, NECH, N3CW. Nothing wrong w/ those if that's what you want, but imo the double and triple tapers are better if you ride more open single tracks where you're getting on the pipe more frequently. The two straight taper "woods friendly" needles I've used for slow single tracks on my '05 is: Sudco DCK for the 38mm pwk Sudco DDK for the 36mm pwk Note: premix ratios are between 40-50:1, and the premix I use for slow woods riding is a light/thin viscosity premix to eliminate excess spooge for riding that's mainly under the hit of the pipe. I try not to use premix that says "Racing premix" as these are often thicker viscosities made to work at higher rpm and won't evaporate quickly at higher cyl temps. But there's nothing wrong w/ using race premix for woods, except I see more spooge coming out the pipe when I don't ride it hard.
  15. jeddclampette

    06 CR250 Issues with idling/ power valves

    Your powervalve looks a-ok to me. Cable slack is AOK too. it's working as it should. ps, looks like your stock pipe got bent inward as it looks like it's touching the frame (right in front of the powervalve housing) nothing to worry about for now, but check the connection at the cyl head to ensure that both your pipe's orings are still hidden and seated inside the cylinder exhaust spigot. YOu dont want any air leakage as a result of the bent pipe b/c that'll cause your single ring to wear out prematurely. also, sounds like maybe some sediment inside the carb (or the dreaded ethanol white puss) may have been sucked through the pilot. i'd drain the bowl, then refuel it back up, and see if that helps. if not, then taking out the carb may be necessary to visually inspect further.