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Smallen

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About Smallen

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    Illinois
  • Interests
    Wheelies

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  1. I'd say it works! Immediately after this video one of the bolts holding my cylinder head cover on decided to break, and then oil started spraying everywhere. So, on to the next project. Thanks for the help everyone!
  2. There was no lever play before. I'm trying now to adjust it to where I have as little play as possible without blocking the fluid flow.
  3. Attempting to use the phone app... I have an aftermarket clutch lever (midwest mountain engineering). The extra banjo and resevoir is for a left hand rear brake lever.
  4. Esteemed Sirs, We have found the problem. Now to figure out how to fix it
  5. Re-greased the piston with actual brake fluid. Also changed the oil, just because, and I did seem to notice some improvement for the first few rides.
  6. Well, I'm officially out of ideas now. Other than the brand new pack, I have a new slave cylinder, and I cleaned and rebuilt my master cylinder. The bike still doesn't work. Even if I'm just riding around town and the bike is relatively cool, after about 15 minutes of riding the clutch starts to slip. Other than the bubbling noise up at my master cylinder (which is still there), after a few minutes of riding if I quickly slip my clutch it makes a loud squealing sound. When I took my new OEM clutch back out to put heavy duty springs in with it, I noticed that there were dry spots on the fiber discs and that the metal discs looked a little glazed. But, this clutch pack is literally brand new; it has only been in the bike for a couple of weeks. I just don't get it, the bike runs perfectly for 10-15 or so minutes after a cold start, after that it turns to garbage. I also checked to see if my oil was overfilled, which it was, so I drained some out, and the problems still continued. I'm getting very near to the point of dropping the bike off at a shop and taking a big hit to my piggy-bank .
  7. Bought a rebuild kit for the master cylinder. I have also installed and tested a new Oberon slave cylinder, along with going back to heavy duty springs for the pressure plate. This has seemed to help slightly but the slipping and squeaking resumes after 10 or 15 minutes of riding. My only guess, if this is even possible, is that maybe pressure is getting stuck inside of my clutch line when the oil heats up. Then this excess pressure is pushing fluid past a, most likely, damaged master cylinder piston which is causing the bubbling noise while also causing the slave to apply pressure on the push-rod slightly. This theory does not explain the squeaking noise that only happens once the bike is warm though.
  8. Yeah this is why I had so much trouble learning how to bleed my clutch before. In a reverse bleed the syringe plunger would be completely stuck.
  9. Whenever I bleed the clutch I have to completely remove the lever otherwise the piston gets stuck. There is no fluid flow whatsoever unless I take the lever off.
  10. I ordered an Oberon slave cylinder to replace my current one. Even though the one I have appears to be fine, I did mess around with the clutch lever previously when the pressure plate was off, so I'm not taking any chances with it.
  11. After pulling the clutch cover off and doing some inspecting, it seems that my outer two clutch plates (the metal discs) that make contact with the pressure plate and hub were both glazed over and had burnt oil sticking them onto both the pressure plate and hub. For the most part, the other plates looked fine, however many of my fiber discs appeared to be dry in places. I'm assuming this is the source of the squawk when slipping the clutch lever.
  12. When bleeding the clutch I also heard a clicking/bubbling noise coming from the master cylinder connection to the clutch cable. I am really starting to reconsider this whole "Hydraulic Clutch" thing.
  13. Update to everyone: ATVMC gave me a refund for the Tusk parts I ordered. However, weeks later... I am running in to issues once more. When my bike starts to heat up, my clutch starts to slip again. On top of that, whenever I slip my clutch after the bike is hot I hear a sharp squeaking noise.
  14. I am happy to say that after installing the OEM clutch plates and springs, along with re-bleeding the clutch (it was slipping just as bad before hand), the clutch certainly seems to be operating properly again. My guess as to why it was slipping even with all of the OEM parts is that when I bled my clutch last it had the Tusk heavy duty springs, and maybe when switching to the OEM springs the pressure plate had extra force pushing on it from the slave. Time to argue with customer support at RMATVMC about getting a refund for my Tusk plates and springs . I will be sure to provide an update about how that pans out for me.
  15. I just rode it again. Better than before, but definitely still slipping. I did not measure any of the springs; the OEM ones felt like they were actually being compressed though. I also do not have a torque wrench that I can use for parts this small so I tightened in a star pattern with light pressure (and locktite) just until the bolts had enough force to stop my hand. Motorex. Have been using it since I picked the bike up with no issues.
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