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About Doogster85

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  1. Those are the numbers I was originally asking for. In that case I'm in spec(ish). Alright so what do the Sachs take well to on adjustments? Air gap change, shim stack change, lighter oil? Definitely going to check into some different valving this winter, anyone had good success with any specific shop or valving changes? Atm I'm planning on just shipping them to beta this winter
  2. So you pulled the entire preload spacer, #11? And then just added another washer on top of the spring washer? The other 2 preload washers are below it, 14 and 15, I'm assuming you pulled one of those? I'm not putting too much in it, but because my sag values are roughly 40mm off the golden rule of a 100ish for beta's, I am trying to get that number closer to its target. With gear I'm right around 235 lbs. My bike is a 2015 Beta 300RR. The forks have been rebuilt by Stillwell prior to me buying the bike, so their has been valve work done, but what exactly, I'm not sure. Just talked with my local dealer today about getting ahold of Beta and seeing what the cost would be to do the "Factory" valving kit that they do in-house.
  3. Ok, I'll give that a go. Is the internal preload just a solid spacer, or a stack? Forks are open chamber, rear was taken care of over the winter, but funds ran short on taking care of the forks. I'm still having a hard time understanding why a bike that should be undersprung for me only has a race sag of 60mm
  4. That is a novel idea. Would soften things up without me throwing my free out the window. What if I did that in combination with removing a few mils from the preload spacer. That would still keep my free somewhat in check
  5. I'm not looking to add preload. Looking to remove preload. 38mm free is a little high, but the guys at stillwell told me their EX setups have ran up to and slightly past 40 without major negative effects. I concur on the stiffer springs, which I'll take care of that when I send the forks in to Beta this winter. I've got 3 races left so I'm just trying to soften them up a bit more to get me through to the end of the season
  6. Finally getting some time to mess with my front forks, it's been a busy year, so I've been pretty much just been racing, cleaning and parking it. I've been complaining of stiff forks all year long, even with the compression backed off quite a bit. So anyways, got my wife out to check preload on the forks. My free sag was meh at 38mm, Little high but not terrible. I checked my race sag however and I'm at a terrible 60mm. I know there's no external adjustment, so I'm planning on pulling the preload spacers and cutting them down a bit to get me through the last 3 races of the year. However, I'm not quite sure what's a solid number to aim for on the forks. I'm a converted street guy so the numbers I know are way different. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dusty
  7. Yea, I just saw that system this morning. Since I know I've lost a leg on my stator, charging at 12.3V, that's probably the route I'm gonna go. I run a race harness and the only pull on my system is a trail tech universal fan. Anything weird or funky I should know about?
  8. Thanks GP. What bridge rectifier did you use?
  9. Hey, just a quick question as I'm having a bit of trouble finding the info I'm looking for. Had the bike out Saturday riding at a friends place, and after a lot of stopping and starting, my magic button stopped working, and I had to resort to manual labor and kick it over. Came home today and checked the charging voltage and I'm only at 12.3 volts, so obviously I'm down on charging power. I installed a trail tech universal fan kit that's a direct to battery setup, pulling 30 watts. So I'm wanting to know how much extra wattage the charge side has to play with. Obviously I know my stator is weak and I'll get that fixed up, just don't want to put another stator in it and overload it as well, if that's what's happened. Also, my bike has a race harness on it, so I'm not running anything off of the A/C side of the bike. Has anyone converted the A/C side over using a rectifier to power lights, fans etc, and if so, what'd ya use. Thanks
  10. No problem, and no, it's wired straight to the battery
  11. Word, thanks for the info on the impeller, makes me feel better buying it, lol. Man I really want a S3 head, if if nothing else, just for the bling factor
  12. You're welcome. I had been running just the doubles and after a mudfest race this past May I decided to figure out a fan option, and ended up going with the TT universal. I've got a rekluse as well and I've noticed a difference this summer in the fan keeping my operating temp down, therefore keeping the clutches a bit cooler, so I was really happy with that. It might be overkill, but this winter I think I'm gonna buy beta's upgraded water pump impeller just go to full monty on it
  13. There ya go gents. Bluespark, if you have the stock rads, you can buy the kit from beta, which will will give a solid mounting option. Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty the rad guards won't affect the beta hard mount option. Hawaii, the fan will fit with the myler doubles. I have doubled on mine and a race harness, so I didn't have a choice, you don't really have a choice once you go with doubles anyways. The trail tech mounts through the rad fins, with 4 plastic "studs" that are held onto place with the 4 plastic bits you see in behind my rad guards. The temp sensor that came with universal kit, was too wide, and so I had to grind the edges down a good bit, and I still ended up putting a hole in the rad. Sent it to Mylers, and he said she was rusted pretty bad, so I ordered a new one and had him attach the little bit you see on the bottom. Not perfectly hidden from ambient air, but I've managed to kick the fan without any problems a couple of times. There is enough room that you could mount one of TT's inline temp switches, which will plug into any of their fan setups, on the lower rad hose right above the exhaust. Wiring is zip tied in there. Still debating whether or not I want to splice it down or just leave it as it is. I might come up with a fancy bracket that'll drop off the rad shroud plastics to hold the temp meter, but I'm not sure yet
  14. Yea that's the downfall to a os tank, especially when your woods racing. I'm in the same boat as far as fuel. I can barely squeeze out a 2 hour, but it's really close sometimes. Raced a a hour and a half race 4th of July weekend, it was a pretty fast course, and I had maybe an inch of fuel left on both lower portions of the gas tank. I use a quick fill tuff jug, so I'm not gonna cost myself a ton of time putting a bit in, but at the same time, I hate stopping when I'm in a good rhythm, I seem to loose a bit of focus when I do
  15. I have a buddy who has a lectron and an os tank on his ktm, and he swears by that carb. He does destroy me on mileage and often times when we go to Hatfield-McCoy I have to steal fuel from him on longer rides. That's a little bit of a bummer to hear about the loss on the bottom end though. I thoroughly enjoy lugging my 300 around in 3rd in the woods, so that might alter my decision making now