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      JUST IN!   07/18/2018

      Video: 2019 Yamaha YZ250F Features & Benefits 


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About Doogster85

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  1. Alright folks, help the electrically dumb guy out please, lol. Got a 100w TT stator kit, and for the life of me, do not understand the wiring. Obviously the pin connectors I've got hammered out, but the blades are confusing me. I'm assuming both yellow stator wires go to the blue and white wires that were connected to the original stator???? And then the 2 blades off the RR I have no idea. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Dusty
  2. Thanks guys, I'll move it down in the A.M. That's where I thought it went intially. Just did a Google image search and it also appears to show it in the lower slot. BTW, if anyone needs a 5.2 spring, lmk. I've got one that's just gonna end up collecting dust otherwise
  3. Tore my shock apart a while ago and now can't remember which slot the spring retainer goes into. Anyone able to help refresh my memory Thanks, Dusty
  4. Does anyone have a spring chart for the podium rc3? Can' find anything online and need to change rear springs Thanks, Dusty
  5. Those are the numbers I was originally asking for. In that case I'm in spec(ish). Alright so what do the Sachs take well to on adjustments? Air gap change, shim stack change, lighter oil? Definitely going to check into some different valving this winter, anyone had good success with any specific shop or valving changes? Atm I'm planning on just shipping them to beta this winter
  6. So you pulled the entire preload spacer, #11? And then just added another washer on top of the spring washer? The other 2 preload washers are below it, 14 and 15, I'm assuming you pulled one of those? I'm not putting too much in it, but because my sag values are roughly 40mm off the golden rule of a 100ish for beta's, I am trying to get that number closer to its target. With gear I'm right around 235 lbs. My bike is a 2015 Beta 300RR. The forks have been rebuilt by Stillwell prior to me buying the bike, so their has been valve work done, but what exactly, I'm not sure. Just talked with my local dealer today about getting ahold of Beta and seeing what the cost would be to do the "Factory" valving kit that they do in-house.
  7. Ok, I'll give that a go. Is the internal preload just a solid spacer, or a stack? Forks are open chamber, rear was taken care of over the winter, but funds ran short on taking care of the forks. I'm still having a hard time understanding why a bike that should be undersprung for me only has a race sag of 60mm
  8. That is a novel idea. Would soften things up without me throwing my free out the window. What if I did that in combination with removing a few mils from the preload spacer. That would still keep my free somewhat in check
  9. I'm not looking to add preload. Looking to remove preload. 38mm free is a little high, but the guys at stillwell told me their EX setups have ran up to and slightly past 40 without major negative effects. I concur on the stiffer springs, which I'll take care of that when I send the forks in to Beta this winter. I've got 3 races left so I'm just trying to soften them up a bit more to get me through to the end of the season
  10. Finally getting some time to mess with my front forks, it's been a busy year, so I've been pretty much just been racing, cleaning and parking it. I've been complaining of stiff forks all year long, even with the compression backed off quite a bit. So anyways, got my wife out to check preload on the forks. My free sag was meh at 38mm, Little high but not terrible. I checked my race sag however and I'm at a terrible 60mm. I know there's no external adjustment, so I'm planning on pulling the preload spacers and cutting them down a bit to get me through the last 3 races of the year. However, I'm not quite sure what's a solid number to aim for on the forks. I'm a converted street guy so the numbers I know are way different. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dusty
  11. Yea, I just saw that system this morning. Since I know I've lost a leg on my stator, charging at 12.3V, that's probably the route I'm gonna go. I run a race harness and the only pull on my system is a trail tech universal fan. Anything weird or funky I should know about?
  12. Thanks GP. What bridge rectifier did you use?
  13. Hey, just a quick question as I'm having a bit of trouble finding the info I'm looking for. Had the bike out Saturday riding at a friends place, and after a lot of stopping and starting, my magic button stopped working, and I had to resort to manual labor and kick it over. Came home today and checked the charging voltage and I'm only at 12.3 volts, so obviously I'm down on charging power. I installed a trail tech universal fan kit that's a direct to battery setup, pulling 30 watts. So I'm wanting to know how much extra wattage the charge side has to play with. Obviously I know my stator is weak and I'll get that fixed up, just don't want to put another stator in it and overload it as well, if that's what's happened. Also, my bike has a race harness on it, so I'm not running anything off of the A/C side of the bike. Has anyone converted the A/C side over using a rectifier to power lights, fans etc, and if so, what'd ya use. Thanks
  14. No problem, and no, it's wired straight to the battery
  15. Word, thanks for the info on the impeller, makes me feel better buying it, lol. Man I really want a S3 head, if if nothing else, just for the bling factor