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About MrMotorhed

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    TT Bronze Member

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    r/c car racing, wakeboarding, autocross
  1. hard knocks university. alumni. one of my favorite books is "scientific design of exhaust and intake systems" by philip hubert smith and john c Morrison. another in the same vein is "the design and tuning of competition engines" by philip h smith and david n wenner. another couple decent ones are the 2 and 4 stroke books by a.g.bell. I learned how to assemble and true a single cylinder crank from an old Haynes kdx200 manual as unglorious as that may seem. it's been my experience that when learning a new aspect or skill to get at least 2 books preferably 3 and read them all because that will make the better approach more apparent for whatever your trying to do.
  2. "i'm getting a four stroke and I don't want to spend a bunch of money" good luck with that approach.
  3. wiseco are the insta crap Chinese stuff, speaking of the cranks only. (many folks have run them with success but I say some had to make somebody happy right.) ironically, wiseco is a distributor for pro x wich is reboxed Japanese oem stuff usually (good). hotrods tooled up to finish machine their rods in the u.s. from their Taiwanese forgings so that's a step up from wiseco. they can check quality control better that way. do you have someone you can trust to redo your stock crank with a new rod? if it were mine i'd redo the stock crank with a new stock rod or pro x rod. that only works if you know of someone to do the crank who is legitimate, preferably the guy to show you on his jig how straight he got it before handing it to you when hes done ya know. if I had to buy a crank my preferences would be Honda crank first then maybey a hotrods crank after that.
  4. you should post this somewhere more appropriate than in the jet ski section
  5. ok so what did it run like when you put it back? it can't be that bad if your still driving it. just sayin. if it gets bad enough you'll figure out how to find the time to have that guy look at it.
  6. sometimes clutch plates stick together when they've sat clamped shut like they do. start in neutral, squeeze clutch lever several times, while running, before placing transmission in gear. problem solved. if you still have a problem, ask a pro you can trust and feel comfortable asking basic questions like that.
  7. I think he did recommend something. he recommended that if you did everything he suggested than you have a different problem. have you undone everything you did and put everything back the way it was before you started just to check your work? have you had a pro look at it?
  8. looks like it may be pre jetted with a good starting point. how well the out of the box jetting was for your configuration would be a big consideration for me.
  9. same as on every other streetbike. owners manual.
  10. they're called trials bikes. haha
  11. "ideally", you'd have a little more info about your scenario. you probably have multiple problems indicated by the fact it was hard to start to begin with. the difficulty in finding your problem may be exacerbated by the fact that you never found out what was going on with the bike before the map sensor broke. you'll need more patience and skill and info for starters. got a manual?
  12. fyi. as far as seat shaving goes that's a whole lot
  13. you wont know how jenky it is till you try it for yourself. it sounded like a good idea that's why you asked. but no there's no way that'll hold probably won't survive the tank being reconnected. on the other hand, a useful technique I have used with other stuff like this for broken off vacuum fittings goes like so: go to the hardware store, broken off piece in hand and go to the hobby metals section. I don't know if this is what the store is going to call it but I don't know what else to call the point of sale display with the different lengths of aluminum and brass tubing and flat stock and little aluminum angle and stuff. you use your busted piece and find a size of tubing that slips just inside as closely as you can get one to fit. buy that piece of tubing, take it home and cut off a short piece and file the ends smooth so it'll pass into your broken pieces nicely. this will act like a splint. clean all your pieces one last time and jb weld that stuff together with the splint you just made inside. before the jb sets, take a paperclip or pin or something and pass it through the inside of the passage to make sure no jb is left in there plugging up the nipple. once it sets up, the metal piece inside holds all that stuff together in the field and yes it does make the inside of the passage much smaller but on vacuum stuff that pretty much never matters as long as it's not plugged and there's no leak. don't use that to fix that tank unit the constant gas exposure and 50 or so psi will work that off in short order.
  14. exactly right and trimmed subframes, including the most dominating motocross racer of all time.
  15. when I worked at a mc shop selling ktm and husky in the ninties, our biggest obstacle for selling units was financing. peoples personal banks didn't like to finance a bike without stellar credit or at all because they saw a bike as much more of a toy and therefore a default risk than a car and a car was looked at as more of a necessity by the institution. the Japanese brand shops had banks that had pre negotiated much better terms through Suzuki of America or Honda of America etc... much looser terms and better rates. financing is way tougher than a car from what I remember. it might be more cost effective to develop a relationship with a pro that would be willing to help you shop for a few creampuff secondhand bikes. if financing was still needed at those price levels, you may just be able to apply for a personal line of credit or some kind of personal small loan through your bank or c.u. and never really need to acutely disclose what the loan is for. just a thought.
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