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About jacob429

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  1. Would you rather ride a male bike or female bike? Yes it's a joeymac booby plate. I was wondering how long before someone would point that out haha
  2. Mtn biking is fun! The music was hard to pick and I don't have a great system down for that yet. For this vid I browsed sites like audiojungle and used keywords like cinematic, dramatic, orchestral, suspenseful. As I skip through music for hours I take note of potential stuff I might use in the vid. Then at some point i just have to say screw it and pick something. And in this case I did license the music for the vid, but have used royalty free songs as well. I have 6 transitions going between 3 different songs throughout the vid, keeping each section of music under about 1 minute before transitioning in hopes of making it more engaging to watch (high spots and lulls). In one of the transitions it wouldn't have been smooth at all so I figured out you can add in a cymbal roll type sound between audio clips to smooth it out. Otherwise I was able to find a good transition part in each music clip for the rest of the transitions (cymbals, bass roll and bass hits).
  3. Shit dude I don't think I could confidently do it on a 701 so I'm not sure how I could help you haha. It's very difficult for me even on a big wr450f I recently rode, tallest bike I've been on (I think it had an extra cushion seat on it). I also generally find it much more difficult to control the throttle without stalling on a 4-stroke bike. When I do pivot turns on the 2 stroke I am generally very very low revs.
  4. This video only scratches the surface (although I have all the best scenic shots in it) - we had 6 days of riding with 1 day of rest in between. I don't think I've ever been so fatigued in my life. We did load up the truck every day so no camping this trip. I'm using the Sony HDR-AS300. I selected this camera for it's stability, it uses optical stability tech as opposed to 100% digital. It turned out it was too stable and took you out of the action, so I do all shooting in the semi-stable mode so there's still a bit of shake. The mount is just a plain old 3-axis adjustable mount. I am using an external mic which I modded the camera and case (easy to do) in order to fit while using the waterproof (no longer waterproof) case. I have the mic in the chin guard near my cheek. The drawback of this camera is it isn't the 4k model, and the battery life leaves some to be desired, and unlike the gopro there aren't any extended battery options. You also have to remove it from the waterproof case to change the battery. Most of the time I had the helmet cam shooting at 60fps. The drone used is the Mavic Air. Turns out I was able to fit it, 3 extra batteries, spare props, and 2 cases of ND filters all in my regular riding bag. For the most part I filmed in 4k @ 24fps, and for certain shots where the camera wasn't tracking the subject I would do 2.7k @ 60fps so the subject wouldn't just be a blur. In order to shoot in 4k @ 24fps and keep a 1/50s shutter speed with a low ISO, I mostly used the ND64 and ND32 strength filters with polarization. White balance was also manual, for the most part just staying at around 5400k, however near the end the sun was beginning to set behind the mountain tops so I adjusted the white balance for a warmer feel. The drone has a number of autopilot modes and the active track feature which can track and follow the subject. However it turns out even if you ride smooth and slow with no abrupt movements, the drone does not follow dirt bikes well. It does better with bicycles, and I think part of it is that you change shape when you're ready to go (take off and stand up on the foot pegs) - I noticed it tracked better when I drew the square around the dirt bike so the drone would look at it rather than trying to track the rider. I definitely spot a number of imperfections with the vid, but I'm just accepting it and chalking it up to brand new software, new workflow, and having to learn a bunch of new stuff. One thing I screwed up was the FPS setting on the sequence but I'm not sure how to fix it. Oh well, I'm still happy with how it turned out! Edit: Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I did go ride in Moab last year, which I think is what most people picture when they think Utah. Well let me tell you, this trip was way better than Moab! I think it has something to do with the variety of terrain and scenery, plus the fact that you're always on single track dirt bike trails rather than jeep trails.
  5. I'm pretty happy with how this turned out! Wish I lived in Utah.
  6. IMO the platform obstacle I built is the most versatile in terms of the amount of techniques that can be learned and applied to it. About a bike length, one side flat one side with a steep ramp. Japzaps, double blips, carrying the wheelie, braking and balance to hop up then stop on top, floater turns to wheelie off and and yourself up for the next obstacle. Seriously the best obstacle I've learned on, and I still made modifications to make it fresher and more challenging to keep learning. We will see how bad I am at trials stuff by the time I get back on it! It has been months since back yard or trials practice. The thing I wish I would have started doing sooner before an ankle injury started preventing me from doing the trials stuff (the impacts in trials are just right to reinjure it, yet the trail is fine), is multiple obstacles in quick succession. It doesn't take long to get good at one lone log or rock, but set a few up about bike length apart and you're in for an ass whooping.
  7. I very much disagree with not learning to use the clutch. You can get away with this on bikes with a mellow hit and heavy flywheel like trials bikes. Your average race enduro bike, 2t or 4t, will require good clutch control to do climbs period; else you will either send it or just lose traction period. I'm not a great climber but there's no way I could do half the climbs I can if I didn't modulate with the clutch. The clutch is key in hill climbs and should be built into practice from the get go in order to develop good habits. If you don't believe me, do some climbs on my bike next time with only throttle, it won't be a good time especially if technical slow climbs.
  8. LOL I doubt that especially with how I've been riding lately but what a great compliment! I have recently been getting more into bicycles and picked up a dual sport since I needed one to do both trail and street, probably 50/50. Pretty fun but yeah I don't think the skills transfer well at all. I could see bicycle trials helping with indoor trials and especially balance and hopping around on the rear wheel, but you still got to learn the clutch and throttle control. I haven't been doing much of the trials type stuff lately because an injured ankle, actually I'm taking a few weeks off the bike in hopes of healing up enough for my Utah riding trip in 2 weeks. Anyway, theres a lot of muscle memory involved in throttle and clutch control and if you dont use it regularly you definitely get rusty which is what I'm dealing with now. Mototrials on the other hand transfers very well to enduro bikes.
  9. Yeah I can do them to the right but it's quite rare that I would do a full 180 right handed so I'm probably not all that consistent with it. Since you don't have access to the rear brake going to the right, I lean the bike slightly so I can reach the ground better and don't get the bike quite so vertical (but close) so it's definitely more tricky. This usually makes for a slightly wider turn or sometimes if the bike is leaned over a bit too much it'll break traction and you'll get a combination between a pivot turn and a wheel slide turn (or whatever) which still works quite well if you have clearance. Hopping the front of the bike like Jarvis and trials riders is the ultimate way of learning the rhythm of the suspension so you can get more back from the suspension. You need to have both feet on the pegs so either very good balance or have someone help hold the bike upright, if you can get a couple of hops you're pretty much good you now have the rhythm. Most people move too fast and end up working against the suspension and I think this is why Jarvis likes to make people try this very difficult (hard to balance) technique. To hop, do this: 1. Hold rear brake very hard, like all your weight, especially when unweighting the forks so the bike doesn't roll back. 2. It's all in the knees, dip your knees forward then back. You can do this with absolutely no pushing or pulling from the arms, a bit of a pull with the arms can help but isn't necessary. It's all in the knees. 3. Suspension setup. Any setting on an enduro bike that's not completely out of whack is fine. You don't need to back out your rebound just to do this (although I'm sure it would make it easier). I haven't tried on an MX setup but I'm assuming it would be more difficult. Also, bike weight matters, you probably aren't doing this on a 690 but can probably manage on up to a 450 if you weigh more than 150lbs. Anyway, that's my 2 cents, take it with a grain of salt because I certainly ain't no Jarvis
  10. Forgot to share this vid. Just random clips over the last year, trying to get a mix of fails in there too. Obviously the music won't be for everyone but I may turn it down a bit lower if I make another vid like it eventually.
  11. Been a while since I made a topic here! Something has been nagging at me and I wanted to get input from you guys. So when we're on trails ride, we always try to look as far ahead as possible. This also counts for techniques like pivot turns, floater turns, etc.. The question is, if you have multiple obstacles in quick succession, especially requiring intermediate techniques like the double blip so you can't simply roll over everything, when do you switch your focus from the first obstacle to the second? For instance, let's say you got a double ledge with the first being undercut and requiring a japzap. To get a solid front wheel punch, you need to focus on the ideal point of impact right? And then do you shift your focus to the next thing right as your front wheel impacts the first thing since you know you got it - or do you keep focusing on the first thing until your bike is climbing it and look at the next thing when you feel safe/cleared? I feel like the best thing to do would be to shift your focus the instant or even slightly before front wheel touch (once you know you're lined up and going to hit it), but I have found it extremely difficult to do this in practice, especially the bigger the obstacle is. This might be a mental thing but for the big obstacles out of my comfort zone I feel like I get tunnel vision, and will forget things like look ahead or good brake control. Then again, in trials you walk the sections and make a mental note of positions of obstacles - for instance in some of the indoor trials the pros might be doing a massive blind splatter (as in they can't immediately see what's ahead) where they have to bridge a gap with their bike which means placing the front wheel on the next obstacle correctly or take a massive tumble over the bars. My thoughts are scattered around on this, everything is situational, but I just need to do a real training session with an instructor one day!
  12. The bit about leaning back is very good and important advice. Never straighten your arms. Also nothing too exaggerated, anywhere from neutral attack position to butt slightly back works fine for most cases - that way you have room to correct when you hit it. Depends on the pace too, get back a bit more the faster the speed.
  13. On obstacles that you can do safely while sitting, I don't see why not. You'll be slower doing so. But lots of stuff isn't safe or possible while sitting. Like decent sized logs you're in for a big time bucking if you hit it faster than a crawl while sitting. I agree though it's good to learn how to do everything you can whether sitting or standing. Sometimes you might be forced to sit like after getting out of shape on a hill climb, and still need to push forward over something or else fail the climb. Or maybe a log or obstacle right out of a corner.
  14. I asked my dealer about break in of my Beta 300rr when I got it. Small town owner operator super nice guy with a long history of racing. Anyway, he basically told me to ride the shit out of it. And the last thing you want to do is baby it.
  15. Ride it exactly how you normally would. This will ideally create the conditions for even wear and fitment of all moving parts. Then change your oil after the first 2 hours of riding, metal shavings are normal. Break-in periods are a myth for the most part, especially with modern engines.