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About jacob429

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  1. Kind of an old post, but I'm no longer in the market since I plan to move out of state in a year or 2. I'm not talking MX btw, and 1 acre would actually be plenty for my purposes. Thanks everyone for the info.
  2. Dude, it's a dirt bike! Don't worry about giving it a beating. Plus that thing is light enough that it will fall pretty well with barely even cosmetic damage except maybe on rocks. But who cares about cosmetics! From what I hear, trials bicycles don't transfer to mototrials very well at all. They are also hard on the back no doubt, I have ridden one briefly. Sounds like you're interested in nose wheelies. - Start with a little momentum in 1st gear - Compress the shocks with your legs, then at the same time: - Press the front brake, unload the shock, push against the handlebars with your hands (think of yourself pushing the bike around the front tire, NOT pushing straight down into the bars) - Your butt will be near the back of the seat, don't throw your body front toward the bars, it's totally unnecessary and removes all control over the bike. - For turning, throw your hips in the direction you want to go whenever you unload and point your handlebars in the direction you want to go. I'm not very good at it, I can do some nose wheelies and turn it a bit but certainly not without dabbing. It also helps to have your bars properly adjusted, make sure they're about perpendicular to the ground. Let's practice some in a couple weeks!
  3. Yeah that is the key. You have to ride it in complete confidence, even if you're doing something for the first time. Not easy to do but when it's time to commit, you gotta do it. Confidence is your best shot at preventing injury. If you approach stuff all timid and tense, you'll mess up. If you think you might crash, you will crash. Just gotta ride it like you don't care about any of the potential consequences, ride it like you stole it with no &%$#@!s given. You'll still get injured at some point, but it's way less likely when you ride like this.
  4. Can't wait. I want to get some MX seat time in when I finish healing from the broken collarbone. I have another Utah trip planned in June now though, so I also need to get a lot more time in some single track and hill climbs. I'll be riding a wr450 and those things are a lot to handle when you have to recover from a failed hillclimb.
  5. Yeah and the kids and easy tracks are very fun and easy to ride. Even if you've never jumped, you'll be clearing everything in no time. Never start on an advanced track, these will only scare you away from MX. Plus the consequences are minimal for messing up on a kiddie track. You can come up short all day and still ride thru, they are set up so the landings are long and gentle and you'll never be landing into a steep face if you come up short. Edit: this is from a woods rider, I'm not an MX guy. But riding some MX will help your woods riding. Woods riding will even help MX guys, there is a lot of crossover and a lot to learn from both. You do have to swallow your pride when the 10 year old smokes you on an 85.
  6. Nice work dude. Seems like you're figuring out the jetting thing pretty quick. It's always good to avoid changing too many things at once to avoid unintended consequences and not knowing what change did it. At the very least, record a baseline setting.
  7. The common stuff.. - spare tubes and tire spoons - 8mm, 10mm, 11mm, 12mm sockets and wrenches will cover most things - tow strap - something to carry water on the trail like a camelbak is a must - extra fluids for the bike - extra air filters or the means to clean them for extended trips - extra socks and clothes - spray silicone lubricant for general stuff - spark plugs - axle wrench or sockets - icyhot is real nice for multiple days of riding, I believe that is the only thing that kept me going on my Moab trip
  8. You'll be fine and hit them fast again when your back feels better and with some time after taking it slow at first. Plus the mistake that led to your injury should be very easy to avoid in the future (don't sit down when crossing logs). You'll get your confidence back when the pain goes away, or at least when it feels solid again.
  9. Yeah dude, I was one of the dudes helping you lol! The issue has been resolved. I'm surprised and embarrassed that I didn't make the connection between the idle detonation, and trying a very quick and simple adjustment of the mixture screw. I know better, but when you go from 15 year old bikes to dropping 9k on a new bike for the first time, sometimes you don't think clearly when something is going on with your new baby! Haha.
  10. I wouldn't worry about overheating, especially if you have a cooling fan. The only issue is if you plan on racing hard enduro, a lot of events wont score you if you're riding a trails bike. Sometimes even if you're running trials tires on an enduro bike.
  11. The idle screw doesn't affect air/fuel mixture. It directly presses against the throttle slide and raises/lowers the slide as you screw/unscrew. Same thing the throttle cable does. The mixture screw can affect the idle as changing the mixture richer tends to decrease idle, and leaner increases it. You can adjust the idle screw at will to get it to idle where you want, but avoid excessively high idle.
  12. Proper break-in procedure right there. I never bothered putting my tail light plastic back on because I knew it wouldn't last before ripping it off doing something like that. The 300 is a real torque beast so if it needs more than a small crack of throttle to lift the front something must be wrong haha. Sounds like you're getting it dialed. You can also look into throttle cams like the G2 throttle tamer if you find it hard to get used to the response. This'll make the first half throttle tamer. I rode my buddies Freeride with one of these and it made trials maneuvers a lot easier.
  13. Yeah my 300rr doesn't spooge down past the exhaust end cap. Changing the needle you might find that sweet spot. Also going out another 1/4 turn on the pilot might additionally reduce the spooge. Edit: You mentioned the power doesn't come in as smooth. Is that when you get into the power band or like small cracks of the throttle? Since you were running such a rich idle, leaning it out closer to the desired air:fuel ratio will start to make throttle response faster with small openings of the throttle. Generally being slightly lean will make response feel faster, and slightly rich will make response feel slower. This only works to a point before too much on either end of the spectrum will result in power loss, loading up/bogging, detonation, etc
  14. True true... I shouldn't assume he's riding only slow stuff.
  15. It won't hurt to run half a clip richer for testing. Sure beats the alternative while you wait for a new needle. You can probably leave the main alone.