kevvyd

Members
  • Content count

    717
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

466 Excellent

1 Follower

About kevvyd

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Maryland

Recent Profile Visitors

992 profile views
  1. How many scribe lines are below the last needle clip postition on the blue JD needle you were given in that '16 kit?
  2. My '18 has about 65 hours. Last measured compression was 145 PSI. Been having weird symptoms, and someone said his bike clocks in at 180 PSI... All the best rides of the year are yet to come...so I could not help but pull apart the top end of my bike. Here are some facts: Motorex Top Speed 15/50 gear case oil, changed every 10ish hours Motorex Cross Power @ 60:1 with VP 94 race gas Twin air filters cleaned just about every ride. RK Tek head, VForce, Turbinecore 2.1 Tight,slow, singletrack riding, lots of lugging, rarely over 3/4 throttle--or higher than 3rd gear. Lifetime average speed for this bike is 16.1 MPH. During my trials with the Mikuni, I definitely ran lean at times. Not dangerously, but lean none the less. Here are my wear findings: Cylinder still has visible cross hatch, no burns or scoring. Cylinder is still very round, and measures 58.0127 mm which is probably just about the same as it was when new. My powervalve assembly moves very smoothly, and I have no doubts that it works as engineered. Piston is a factory size 1 piston, 57.94 spec. Worn piston measured 57.84 at the specified measurement location. Sufficiently beyond the wear spec for this part and justifies replacement. Body and skirts show "polished" areas of wear and look pretty much normal and as expected. Piston is not nearly as "burnt" as it appears in the pics, that black stuff cleans right off revealing metal of uniform heating and color. No burning or blow by on the rings. Ring end gaps were .55, .56 upper/lower. Wear spec is equal to or less than .40, so again parts are well worn and justify replacement. (my guess is that factory ring gap is around .30 mm?) Wrist pin bearing is unremarkable, but will be replaced. Wrist pin definitely has some scoring , with corresponding wear in the piston pin bore and boss and will be replaced. My base gaskets were .40 mm stack from factory. So that is that... Made it to 65 hours and my top end is bona-fide out of spec, and shows wear to all parts. I will be replacing with a size 2 OEM piston set. I created a gallery of pics for anyone interested: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jaG7yhgm4b7zNYNZ7
  3. I was talking about the difference in the above photo. Everything from the mounting flange up. Both petcocks have roughly the same "reserve pickup" which is that 1'' long screen filter. However the "main pickup" from an OEM S petcock is significantly longer than that of the Yamaha Raptor petcock. Therefore a Yamaha Raptor petcock, even with your improved right angle barb, would run out of gas more quickly between "main" and "reserve" But if you read and do what I had suggested---your fuel ranges remain unchanged. Almost every rider I know can say "my bike can go __ miles after I switch to reserve".... Why make this a new unknown? Nothing about what I wrote should be read to mean anything about the fuel outlet barb.
  4. Was not confused, nice write up on the mod for a better fuel outlet routing.
  5. Great price!... JD is higher priced, but he sends his brand new PWK's with a JD jet kit, and his thumb-turnable air screw. If you want/think you'll need those items
  6. Most guys would look to JD Jetting to buy this item...
  7. I have one more round of jetting maybe's to pursue before I throw in the towel. I am pretty sure I have relented, and will very likely get a 36 Keihin as well. And then there is this as well...to which I have added my own unfortunate contribution. http://ktmtalk.com/showthread.php?543163-Mikuni-jet-block-gasket
  8. I got that exact same symptom on mine right now. RK Head, Vforce.... I been going smaller and smaller on the pilot. Got down to as low as 22.5 and its still there. I'll be trying larger pilots tommo...will hopefully report back better running~~
  9. Here is what the mentioned above "8" range plug looks like after about~4 hours. Seems to run and start about the same as the "9". But coloring looks much less black. I have never been a real study of reading plugs...what you guys think? The plug has no wetness whatsoever and is pretty much a "medium shade of white bread toast" There is a bit of a black at one spot on the insulator, normal?
  10. This is the correct logical next step, and would be done by a dealer or KTM before any conclusions were drawn. Things flex, sometimes paint flexes less.....
  11. IMO. By the time your wheelbase grew enough to be of concern...you'd have probably already swallowed your teeth!
  12. A dinged rim bead is "Meh"...this perhaps warrants a little more concern.
  13. Soooooo...... There is another plug BR8ECMIX, part # 3520, Which is virtually the same code as the stock KTM recommended plug. (but in an iridium, and an 8 heat range) Anyone know about this plug. How is this any different than an BR8EIX.
  14. And the worse you do, the easier it is to correct.....
  15. NICE!! Tell us why the dealer had this '18 with a bunch of mods, with 0.6 hour on the showroom?