Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About tedcool

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

415 profile views
  1. FWIW - I've got two of these, one for wife, one for daughter. I went up about 1 size on both the pilot and the main. After adjusting the fuel screw, they both run great. No tilting or fooling around with anything - just choke when cold, and they fire right up. I think I have figured out jetting reasonably well, and I am satisfied that they are not too rich. The general consensus seems to be that these are delivered from the factory on the lean side to help reduce emissions. If you don't want to fool with the carb, tilting the bike is a pretty good trick!
  2. tedcool

    2017 300 xc-w power valve preload adjustment

    From what I remember about JD's dyno tests, the preload change doesn't add power anywhere - and it doesn't do anything like 'shifting' it from high to low. Your only choices between springs and preload seem to be where you remove power from. I went for max possible power. My clutch and throttle hands give me all the control I need.
  3. tedcool

    2012 250XC - Starter weirdness ( of course...)

    I did the wiring tricks mentioned in various places with one important variation: I ran one ground wire from the subframe bolt where the battery negative lead is, to the ground point on the frame next to the coil. This is where lots of things ground, including the ECU. I ran a second wire from that frame ground point to the outer bolt on the starter. Now it starts instantly, with no kill switch needed, even when dead cold. I think this is the full solution. I used 8 gauge silicone wire.
  4. tedcool

    TTR125 carb issues

    I'd love to run ethanol free gas, but there isn't any near me. I go for Sunoco Ultra 94 octane, and add Sta-Bil to the can as soon as I get home. So far, so good....
  5. tedcool

    TTR125 carb issues

    I think on this carb there is a 'needle jet' which is the part that the needle slides through. That also wears over time and should be replaced. You can tap the old one out, but lining up the new one so that you can tap it in is a bit tricky. I think I used the old needle as a guide to align the jet with the carb body so that I could tap/press it in. Here is my post from when I went through my carb: Good luck!
  6. tedcool

    TTR125 carb issues

    Jet's R Us has a good quality rebuild kit. Look at the jetting stickies above. Get the jets you need on the same order. A 'T' handle fuel screw is nice to get them dialed in easily. I don't remember what I did about that, but I get one for all my bikes. Make sure you get the float level right. I recall that the TTR has a procedure that is a pain in the butt. I might have posted here a year or two ago with a measurement that you can use to get you close. I went a bit richer on the jetting, and they run great now ( I have two in the family fleet ).
  7. tedcool

    What Have You Done To Your KTM Today?

    Your DIRT bike has no DIRT on it. That can't be good. You should fix that ASAP!
  8. Beautiful work! I'm probably missing something obvious, but it seems like it might be easier to put the 230 engine in the KTM85 frame. Any reason not to try to go this way? My wife and daughter need short bikes. They will eventually want an upgrade from their TTR125's.
  9. tedcool

    No Spark When Using E-Start KTM 250xc

    Try tapping the kill switch while cranking. This works for me every time. There's a theory about poor grounding causing the ecu to get confused. Some people run ground wires directly from the battery to the starter case lower screw, and a second one to the frame ground point under the tank. Might help. You can just add wires at the sub frame screw where the battery negative is attached, and run forward in the slots in the tray where the starter solenoid wiring is. Good luck!
  10. tedcool

    Impossible to remove tire

    I agree that this tire and tube is far heavier than what I would choose. The rear wheel weighs a ton! I was just checking out what I have on this new to me bike. I was wishing for a valve stem puller. I've never needed one before - my hands and fingers have been strong enough. I think HondaMan might have been on to something - I was trying to pull the second side of the tire down and off the rim - kind of in reverse of the normal direction. This has worked for me on lighter tires. I think if I had removed the second side like I did the first side ( leaving the rim inside both tire walls ), I might have been able to push it out. What do you think of running a 120 instead of the factory size 110? Wider, maybe grippier. Probably heavier. Worth it?
  11. tedcool

    Impossible to remove tire

    I got a good workout today... I decided to investigate the rear wheel on my new to me 2012 XC. The valve stem wasn't protruding from the rim very much. I have a decent set of tire irons, a bead buddy, a bunch of clamps, and a five gallon pail. This has worked for me well enough for the last few years doing work on the family fleet of 5 bikes. Today, not so much. The rear tire is a Pirelli Scorpoin XC mid hard, a bit oversized - 120/100-18. I discovered the side walls are super stiff. The clamps barely squeeze the tire down. It was a struggle just to get the irons in. I used liberal amounts of Murphy's soap to help. I finally got one side off with a mighty struggle. There's a bit of damage to the rubber on the lip of the tire, but the bead cords are OK. A previous owner has struggled with this too I think. I then discovered a super heavy duty tube inside. That fought me the whole way out. It seems thicker than some of my bicycle tires! I went to work trying to get the tire off the rim. After another 20 minutes with the irons and the soap, I gave up. I put a dose of talc in the tire and rolled it around to spread it out, then went to work stuffing the tube in. That was another 20 minute fight. The stem was a royal pain because the lower side wall didn't want to slide down enough to allow access to the hole in the rim. I finally got it together and aired it up. The bead seated fully on one side at about 25 psi. The other side had one area that just wouldn't come up over the rim correctly. This is where the damaged bead rubber is. Aired down, soaped it, poked at the area with the tire iron to make sure the edge wasn't out of place, and aired up again. This time it seated correctly at about 30psi. I've never had a tire fight me like this! The tire is marked 'heavy duty' with three ply side walls. It's also wider than stock size which is 110. I will not be able to fix a flat in the woods. I will have to ride it home flat. The side walls are so hard, I might not notice at low speeds... Any advice on how to deal with this? I won't be looking to get this tire again, that's for sure!
  12. tedcool

    2012 250XC - Jet change no carb removal?

    You may have the answer! The manual did have separate instructions for SX and XC, but there was no difference in the printed instructions. Also, no advice on actually removing the carb. The KTM manuals are a bit.... minimalist. I was able to remove the carb top and slide by swinging the kick lever over and reaching in from the right side. Just barely enough room to swing the hex wrench, but it worked. I was then able to rotate the carb and finish the job - details above.
  13. tedcool

    2012 250XC - Jet change no carb removal?

    The KTM service manual seems to show pulling it out the left side. I couldn't figure out how they ever did it. If someone here can explain the trick, I will be forever grateful.
  14. tedcool

    2012 250XC - Jet change no carb removal?

    Yes, I went in through the bowl drain plug. I didn't think of removing the chain guide - I'll look at that when I swap in the 168 mj. It wasn't too much of an issue to pull the carb out of the engine side boot. That gave me just enough clearance to get the carb rotated over really well so I could see in the float screw hole and do the work. FWIW, I didn't remove the seat or tank. I want to be able to do this with minimal time and effort. Next time I have the slide out, I think I will notch it. http://ktmtalk.com/showthread.php?539335-FREE-Mod-to-do-to-your-Carb-s-Slide-for-better-running I suspect my son will be greatly suspicious about taking the Dremel tool to the slide, but - no guts, no glory....
  15. tedcool

    2012 250XC - Jet change no carb removal?

    I left the bike in the afternoon sun for a while to get the rubber happy, and went at it. I ended up slipping the carb back out of the engine side so I could get the carb over enough to get a screwdriver and nut driver in to get the jets. I only had a 170 for my leanest MJ, so I will get to do it again when the 168 I ordered comes in. I hate it when find more things to order almost every day. I try save up for the free shipping at RMATV.