PlannedObsolescence

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About PlannedObsolescence

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    British Columbia
  1. Clean through I'm guessing it's no good with that big patch of bare metal?
  2. I'm hoping not; haven't cleaned it yet. If it's anything like the upper exposed portions, it'll clean up pretty good. Got it apart just a bit before I had to start my work shift so I'll find out tomorrow.
  3. Found out why it was so stiff and hard to move. Big patch of rust on the outside of the upper leg, and the inside of the lower leg. Any advice on cleaning the inside of the lower? I can't believe how much crap was sitting on the top of the oil seal, and how chunky it was. Didn't get a picture before blowing it off with the air gun, but it's the same kind of stuff which is on the inside of the dust seal, but there was much more of it. Some of whatever it was, looked crystallised. The good news is the 'piston' and stanchion move freely, and aren't bent.
  4. You make a very good point about the sludge adding to the volume. While I looked at the specified volume (140cc) before adding anything to the fork. I did not measure it because I was just adding enough to lubricate the internal parts. While I don't believe this is the cause, since it was seized before adding lubricant; I will keep this in mind and thank you for sharing your experience. After seeing this morning the alarming amount of dirt which was in the 'grease' I cleaned off the spring, I will be draining the current fluid in it for it's definitely soiled now. Making sure not to add in excess of the recommended volume to avoid a hydro lock.
  5. Canada BC, I think you are likely right about that. This is the kind of enthusiastic spirit I like to see.
  6. Now we're getting somewhere, thanks for your input bimbamboom. The fork is compressed about 3 inches (and basically stuck unless heat and force is applied) will I be able to put the parts which come out of the bottom back in? The reason I ask this is I was worried about getting the fork moving before taking it apart. I know if I take the top cap off I am unlikely to get it back on since there will be a lot of spring to push back in. My plan at this moment was to remove the top cap, wash it out really good and lube it. Put the top cap back on (probably without the spring) and pinch it back in the yokes and try to get it moving. But I'm open to trying a different approach if I understand why and it makes sense. I imagine it's the 'piston' which is caught up with all the dust/dirt in the lubricant; but I don't know for sure.
  7. Nah, we'll see yet, that's what service limits are for. Plus, what will I learn if I don't get to the bottom of this situation? How to buy used parts? I already know how to do that. Quite sure it is not. No offence, but you didn't exactly provide any mind-blowing insight or advice. Your first two sentences were directed at the previous poster. My manual specifies unless information is provided specific to the XR100 to refer to the information provided for the XL100 S. Hence the title in the manual/photo; quite sure that's the shock I'm dealing with less the drain bolt/plug. And I'm quite aware of my option to find used parts. But I'm not one to quit and I prefer to know for sure the fork is hooped before opening the wallet. What I'm looking for is advice in dealing with the current state of the shock. Since I haven't dealt with cycle forks before, there may be things I haven't considered which is why I'm asking here. Anyways I didn't have time to work on it this morning, however yesterday when I withdrew the spring which was covered with what seemed like a thick grease and I was shocked to find no lubrication (in a liquid form) inside. I took the spring and a brush and got as much of the 'grease' off as I could in some mineral spirits. It sat for a bit and I drained the mineral spirits in to the waste container. This morning I took a look and there's a layer of fine dust which was in that 'grease' So now I'm thinking there's just way too much junk in the fork, I will need to wash it out good before trying to move it anymore. It may be hooped, but I also think there's a chance it can still be saved. Though once again, any advice on how to proceed (Salvaging the shock I'm working on) is appreciated.
  8. It's not that the jack was unsafe, it's that the fork was that stiff. Sure now it's unsafe, but that's because of the fork and not he jack itself lol. Any ideas how to get her to loosen up?
  9. Hello, 1984 Honda xr100 One of my forks is seized. Its been sitting for a long time, there appeared to be no (liquid) lubricant in it, Just the spring covered in grease. I added the recommend lube, ATF. I tried to compress it while cold with a jack, and that ended up bending the jack some. I heated the lower leg up slowly with a propane torch evenly and tried again, I got it to compress, about 3 inches. But it's still too stiff to move. The book says it has 6.7" of travel. Unlike the attached photo my forks don't have a drain plug, just the one on the very bottom end which is #16 in the photo. I'm not sure how to proceed here, should I continue compressing it and hope it starts to move? I don't think I will even be able to retract it at this point. Any ideas are appreciated.
  10. Hey Socalxr, It should be centred though right? not to one side or the other? It's spitting out the carb but it's more likely due to (I believe rich, even though I read lean) condition than timing. But want to make sure it's not advanced ignition adding to it's ability to spit/cough/backfire out the carb.
  11. I'm not looking for advanced/retarded timing, I'm looking for stock timing. The flywheel keyway on a CDI flywheel is LARGER than the flywheel keyway on a points ignition crankshaft. I just want confirmation on the placement of the CDI flywheel on the point ignition crankshaft. I assume both the woodruff keys you posted are sized for the modern flywheel. Neither of which would work on my engine since, as already stated, it is a points ignition crankshaft, not the later CDI ignition crankshaft. Plus I already slotted my cam sprocket which makes my timing adjustable.
  12. Hello, I'm hoping someone can tell me what position a CDI flywheel sits on a points ignition crankshaft (xr100). Should it be centered, or to one side? I've read on here places sold a "stepped key" for this, but I have no idea what it looks like since it doesn't seem you can buy them anymore. I currently have it as close to centre as I could achieve by eye.
  13. Well the guy who bored and honed the cylinder cleaned up both mating surfaces. I'm not sure how he did it but from the look of the surfaces I'm guessing some material may have been removed. I also have a new cylinder head on it. Using athena brand gaskets. I figure I'll get a piece of tube/pipe which fits the centre hole of the cam sprocket. Clamp that to the drill press bed so I can rotate the sprocket around it; and make the holes in to slots.
  14. That's the answer to my problem, modify my cam sprocket. I think the fact I hadn't thought of this shows I could use some time off work xD.
  15. I replaced the timing gear on the crank. The old one that I removed (flywheel keyway) was centered between two teeth -- and previously performing a timing alignment worked as it should have. Now as I stated, the current position may be JUST a HAIR off from centre between two teeth but it is quite a bit off when doing alignment. I guess I should have made a mark on the crank. According to my manual, and I quote "To maintain the correct valve timing relationship the sprocket should be refitted with reference to a known datum line; the datum in this case being an extended centre line of the generator rotor locating keyway" and "On the XL80 S and XL100 S models the keyway centre line should pass through the dead centre between any two teeth" Now in my manual it says unless there information is specified for the xr100, to use what is specified for the XL100s. Also as I said the original timing gear had the keyway centered between two teeth. Once again I just can't imagine the little tiny bit that it may be off from centre between two teeth is making such a difference. But that's what it probably is. I'm going to compare the original gear with the new one I think. It seems I will have to dismantle the engine, and sadly try to remove the tack welds and the gear again. I might just end up buying a new crankshaft. I have to say Honda's interference fit timing gear is probably one of the biggest cons of the design of this engine. Especially for the end-user.