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Explokid

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About Explokid

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Michigan
  1. Added ohlins all around last friday. Im 5'5" and 140lb in gear and only ride for fun. Wide single track is what I like. Michigan M20 is my baseline. Evaret is my favorite, but too far for a weekly ride. Ordered ohlins (and more) before I ordered the bike (250rr re). Springs to match via ohlins recomendations. Shock showed up the friday after I received the bike. Forks showed up about 2 weeks later. Forks had a huge scratch. Not happy... AOMC.MX did me right. Replacements showed up about 2 weeks later. Stock suspension, I played with the shock rebound a bit. It was ok. Forks didnt move much (at all) and that was going to be my next step, but my forks ohlin showed up. Rear spring for my weight and the "stock" springs that came with the forks. I can say it's a huge difference, especially on the high speed whoops before any adjustments. Front springs, one rate lighter will put me where I need to be. The fork springs I ordered will be way to light. Rear spring felt perfect, but time till tell. Overall, its plush, but holds up in the rough. A lighter spring and a touch of adjusting and I think it will be perfect for 40 hours until I get to find out rebuild cost...
  2. The diagrams are missing something. A link between ac- and dc-. Electricity flows in a loop, and the loop is not obvious in the diagram. Test it with a bridge rectifier, if it looks like you are only useing 2 of the 4 diodes, you will need to float the ac. Think it's a center tap on the stator. Why, AC, cuz 2 diodes is a 1.4v/14.4v drop. That's about 10% lost in efficiency. Luckily, led are about 1000% more efficient than incandescent. Iv run leds on the AC with out a bridge or caps and it worked with my leds, but I didnt like the flicker. Especially since its half wave.
  3. Evart is my favorite trail in the area. M20 is my after work trail since it's closer and a fairly quick ride. I try to avoid cedar creek.
  4. If I remember correctly, I figured I needed arround 10,000uF. This was for 18w of actual draw. I used a 16v 100,000uF (.1F). Was overkill, but it's what I had on hand.
  5. I did the led in the stock headlight bucket twice. First with the stock stator + rectifier + capacitor and a cheap cob led. Second time I went for the TT stator/ flywheel and a hi/low cree xhp50 setup. Then I added a decent light bar. For trails, I run just the light bar. But for the roads, I still use the stock bucket with the cree. If I was to do it over, I would just do the light bar with a rectifier and cap.
  6. Rectifier and a 100mf 16v capacitor runs 24 watts (measured) of LED on my crf250x. They will glow for about 4 min after I turn the bike off, but no flicker at idle. A 10mf worked but the LED were brighter with the 100mf due to voltage sag. If you put a switch in, make sure it is before the capacitor. The voltage at the capacitor will quickly exceed 50v with out a load.
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