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About tplayer100

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  1. My first thought to. Do you still have the original oem fuel petcock by chance? Might be leaking.
  2. To get that seal out i used a not recommended method... heat, punch, and a hammer. Worked for me but you do run the risk of scratching up a wall and never having a good seal again. I did not have this problem however. Once that seal is out and if you have access to a press the bearings are pretty easy to press out, if i remember correctly. But it's been awhile. The seal is the most important part however. I doubt your bearings are bad but i usually replace them if I got them like I'm guessing you want to.
  3. This guy did a walk through of some of the components you need if your still interested
  4. Post pictures. Technically any FCR will work but some require major modification. Some key components you will need so you wont require major modification are a detachable bell housing, A plastic throttle cable housing, Choke, and a hot start is nice to have. Also be aware as its used you have no idea of the condition. There could be a million different things wrong internally or their could be nothing. If your not accustom to working on carburetors i would not recommend buying a used fcr. There are some sorry horror stories on here if you do some looking around.
  5. Are you turning the petcock off when not in use? Does the oil smell like gas? As previously noted by another user it's sounding more and more like gas in your oil. E models and SM models have the same stator assuming they were both oem stators. Only K model had different stator i believe.
  6. What do you have the idle set at? I would turn the idle up a little while your diagnosing as well. Should help it stay alive a little longer when its get warm to figure out the problem.
  7. I dont have the powerbowl but i have asked a similar question before. Recommended to me from several users to try and dial in the carb as much as possible first. Then if you can't get the throttle response and fix the bogging the way you like, get the powerbowl. The powerbowl is suppose to be amazing but its expensive. Not like you'll see any horsepower gains from it either. Just makes the fcr carb even more responsive and fixes common fcr problems without having to try and dial in the carb.
  8. 200 main air jet is standard
  9. Just looked at his math and your right. Didn't see he wasn't converting the metric.
  10. You'll always have some air leaking the cylinder its not a completely air tight teal. That's what the leak down test mentioned above is for. Pretty simple you pump in 100 psi into the cylinder and read the pressure it holds. (Should see anywhere between 85-100 psi). If u have less then that (like when i had a cupped valve for example i saw 15 psi) then you have a leak somewhere. Edit: Also if you do have a leak listen for it. You Can hear where its leaking (e.g. air coming out of your exhaust ) and help identify the problem.
  11. For 50/50 riding i would go d606. Should see around 3000 miles out of them and some pretty good off road performance for a street legal tire.
  12. crf450 master cylinder is a common upgrade if you need to rebuild buy a used one. Probably cost around the same with better performance. Got one off ebay myself for $20 and immediately noticed a difference in feel.
  13. I do. Thinking the kickstand switch is going off on landings? I havn't considered that and never got around to removing it. Good Thought!
  14. Ouch expensive. But if nothing else works definitely a consideration. Any personnel experience with this bowl?
  15. I used safety wire for the o ring mod and airboot is nice and tight. Also i read 8mm for the fcr. Does it matter if its the mx variant? Splash guard is not something I considered as well good thought.