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hondahondo

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About hondahondo

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    TT Bronze Member

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    Male
  • Location
    Indiana

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  1. hondahondo

    TC2 Repacking

    Try this link: https://www.fmfracing.com/?Content=http://wp.fmfracing.com/wordpress/rider-support/muffler-repacking Step 1 Before getting started with the repack, be sure to remove any spark arrestor or insert from the muffler outlet. To begin repacking, first remove the Allen screws from the front of the muffler (closest to the midpipe). Do not remove the rear end-cap from the muffler can. Step 2 Using care not to damage or distort the shape of the metal, grasp the front end-cap (midpipe side) with your hand and begin working it out of the muffler canister. You may need to lightly tap the muffler mount with a rubber mallet for an easier separation. Slowly pull the end-cap and core all the way out of the can, exposing the remains of the old packing material. Step 3 Unwrap the old packing from the core and discard. To ensure there are no clogs in the perforations, clean the core with a wire brush to remove all of the old material. Step 4 Align the new packing with the longest dimension running the length of the core. Wrap the core and secure the packing with a strip of ½” wide masking tape near each end. The packing should be snug, but not too tight, as this may actually increase the noise level. Step 5 Before reinstalling the inner core assembly into the muffler can, apply a thin bead of FMF high-temp silicone on the front end-cap where it makes contact with the canister. Step 6 Slide the inner core assembly into the canister, making sure it is fully seated into the rear end-cap. Wipe off any excess silicone and reinstall the Allen screws. Tighten each screw an additional 1/4 turn once the screw has made contact with the canister. Allow sufficient time for the silicone to cure before starting the engine.
  2. hondahondo

    CRF230F Build

    Yes, 254, sorry I missed that question.
  3. hondahondo

    CRF230F Build

    Oh here's a little sidebar tool I made. I bought a cheap 2 dollar tape measure (with metric) and glued a magnet to the back, I think the magnet was one from a previous Trailtech kit. This was made to my sag scale.
  4. hondahondo

    CRF230F Build

    Progress report. The project is moving along. Today I finished the intake system, machined manifold flange, silicone tube from the airbox to the carb. Set the preliminary jetting to a 35 plot, 140 main, 3.5 slide. we will see what changes need to be made later. now on to the sprocket alignment. The rear hub is much narrower than the stock CRF230, so I will be machining four bushings to make the offset. I've toyed with the idea of making a laser alignment tool for accuracy, probably better than the eyeball method. Any ideas from you guys are welcomed. As a side note as I have been building this bike, I have sourced a few parts from China, Austria, Australia, USA, and the local hardware store. I just received an aluminum gas cap that I ordered from eBay a month ago. After getting it I decided not to use it. When I weighed it, it weighed twice of the OEM part. I decided that since I have never been stranded by a failed gas cap, that the additional weight would give me no benefits. But it is a cool anodized blue aluminum cap...... if anyone wants it.
  5. Awesome! what type of hinge system are you using?
  6. Love my XR400R. Been street legalish for two year now.
  7. I assume that the green garden sprayer contains a simple green or other degreaser and not Round-up weed killer? Had to label mine, BTW Simple Green will temporarily kill weeds, then they comeback like a M'F"er!
  8. Awesome! Nothing like some 2 smoke on the highway! Love it!
  9. hondahondo

    CRF230F Build

    Here's the progress this weekend. Keep in mind, I took the day off to enjoy watching the Ironman enduro with my daughter. The carb is just mocked up right now as I am still working on the intake. I was fairly happy with the exhaust mounting, but had to make several adjustments (and drink a lot of beer) to make it the way I wanted. The engine was completed with 6mm more stroke and an Athena big bore kit, and a nice little Web Cam ST1 profile. Next week I need to sort out the sprocket alignment issues and the cable routing. I've got some critical stuff coming dangerously close to the header, and I don't feel warm and fuzzy on this.
  10. hondahondo

    CRF230F Build

    Sorry guys, I've been in Birmingham all week. The only thing I've done tonight is replace the plastic idle set screw with an aluminum one. This took about an hour of lathe work.
  11. hondahondo

    CRF230F Build

    Or, Did Harry defeat him? HAHA! I noticed the face like image as well, but only in the photo. With a 15 degree angle change, it actually resembles Phil Collins!!!!!
  12. hondahondo

    CRF230F Build

    That's what I love about TT, so many ideas, opinions, and thoughts! BTW, what kinda crazy plans you got for those 230 engines?
  13. hondahondo

    CRF230F Build

    Piney Unlike Texas, up here in Northern Indiana and Michigan (since I travel and ride there a lot), we have this brief period of time where jetting has to be changed and the "nuts" become frozen! This can sometimes be offset by installing studs in the tires and wearing 4 pairs of long johns, most of us wusses tend to hibernate and work on motorcycles and watch YouTube videos. Mostly YouTube videos!!! Oh and a metric $h!T load of BEER!
  14. hondahondo

    CRF230F Build

    jeffrow68 Yes, the sprocket alignment has to be adjusted. I will be doing that next, I have to cut spacers on the lathe for the rear sprocket. you're correct, I weighed three swingarms, and found the 230 just over 8#'s. As far as the spring goes, I called Paul at race tech and gave him my estimated bike weight and he sent the spring. I will try and find the invoice with the spring rating on it. I will take the airbox back apart and get some pics of the PVC flange, and how I made it airtight. As far as the swingarm, I used the 16mm CRF axle, I changed bearings and seals, then machined spacers for the set up. the hardest part was machining the brake side spacer, as this had to step-up for the caliper mount. A lot of aluminum shavings were created on that!!! Yes the 85 forks are being used. What I did was turn 2 steel collars to 25mm od (I think) and the id to match the KTM steering stem. Then I cut another aluminum spacer to drop the KTM steering stem 10mm. This was installed under the lower bearing, giving me the clearance for the 21" front wheel. I spoke to Doug before I started, He was a wealth of knowledge on what to do, and more importantly, WHAT NOT TO DO!!!! Now, back to the intake. I'm using the PWK carb and had to cast a manifold or spigot (depending on whether you're British or 'Merican). I also have modified an insulator between the manifold and the cylinder head. But this part is still in the prototype stage, so it may change before I'm done. I really have been using this project to practice skills that I have not perfected. I've been a mechanic for 30 years, however, sheet metal and welding has never been my strong points. I'm learning a lot. I also welcome all input and criticism. I plan on posting the two other FAILED air/battery box designs, so that everyone can laugh at my misery!
  15. hondahondo

    CRF230F Build

    Today's progress included, finish wiring, fit body work and confirm mounting tabs, paint swingarm and install new pivot bearings, bleed new stainless brake lines, and drink a lot of beer! Next update reassemble engine with stroker crank and set sprocket alignment! Then comes the carb and intake manifold, any thoughts would be appreciated.
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