Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About MotoTribology

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Riding, spectating, Anything Outdoors

Recent Profile Visitors

2,104 profile views
  1. MotoTribology

    My new 650R dual sport

    Nah, last time I checked, they recommend the GN4 in everything and it should be fine. You could certainly go to a higher performing oil, but if you've already got the GN4, that'd be what I would be using.
  2. MotoTribology

    My new 650R dual sport

    Yes. I don't think there are any Honda's that the GN4 isn't suitable for. I'm assuming you were using 10W-40 GN4. They do both call for 10W-40's as far as my info shows.
  3. MotoTribology

    2 Stroke oil???

    If it meets the specs it meets the specs. That being said, the JASO and ISO specs main points of focus are cleanliness and deposit control. There is a "lubricity" test to ensure a minimum is met, but it doesn't take a lot of properties into account. Here's a decent description of the "lubricity" test: JASO M340-92 Lubricity Test
  4. MotoTribology

    Yz450f aluminum dust in oil

    Just FYI, baby oil would qualify as an API GL-1 gear oil. GL-1 is any refined petroleum oil, with or without additives. They cannot contain friction modifiers or extreme pressure additives.
  5. I think I'd rather take maintenance advice from someone who didn't need to rebuild Porsche engines.
  6. Whatever 540rat is trying to convey with this, its way off base. His description of "onset of thermal breakdown" is nonsense. NOACK volatility indicates one thing and one thing only, the volatility of the oil at a specific temperature in a specific time frame. It is used to estimate the oil loss due to evaporation in real world applications. Deterioration or oil degradation due to heat has no starting point with regard to temperature. Oxidation is occurring at all times. Both in the dead of winter in the Yukon and in a air cooled bike in the Mohave. The difference is the rate of degradation due to oxidation and heat accelerates that rate. There is no "onset" temperature where oxidation suddenly starts occurring once passed and isn't occurring below it. 540rat also states in that test that those temperatures are when the oil "started to vaporize". There is no barrier temperature where evaporation does not occur until passed. Yes, the rate is pretty much negligible at low temperatures and heat does accelerate the evaporation rate, but it isn't the same as boiling with a specific temperature limit.
  7. MotoTribology

    DRZ400 Burning oil. Where's it going?

  8. MotoTribology

    DRZ400 Burning oil. Where's it going?

    I have no opinion on the brand choice. If you don't want to continue this cycle of topping up so often, check the specs of some other brands. You can either try to find data sheets that include the volatility numbers or reach out to the companies and ask directly. I'd estimate anything under 8% volatility would be fine to avoid the need to add oil during 1000 mile intervals.
  9. MotoTribology

    DRZ400 Burning oil. Where's it going?

    Well that would be about 10% of a sump containing about 2 liters. So all signs point to oil volatility if you ask me.
  10. MotoTribology

    DRZ400 Burning oil. Where's it going?

    Last I saw, their volatility numbers were around 10%-ish, so I wouldn't think that would be the issue. However, if you are losing more in the initial 500 than the later 500, I would generally lean toward the virgin oil having high volatility and the initial burn off being excessive. How much loss are we really talking here? Half a quart or a few ounces?
  11. MotoTribology

    DRZ400 Burning oil. Where's it going?

    Excessive volatility could cause both. What oil are you using, and after you top off, are you needing to top off every 500 miles or just after the initial 500 following an oil change?
  12. Yeah, it'll probably have burned quite a bit dirtier than a modern 2-stroke oil, but switching back to decent 2-stroke oil now should clean up any deposits or carbon it might have built up in that short time.
  13. Well, my website has some general information that you might find informative. I haven't posted anything new in a long while, but I am trying to remedy that, life just gets in the way sometimes and my motivation wanes. I try to avoid any brand specific stuff though, so you'll want to track down any specifics you are interested in on your own. I'm happy to answer questions along the way though if you have them.
  14. The only way is to track down comparable test results from the different oils you are trying to compare: Oxidation stability Shear Stability Wear prevention Extreme pressure protection Friction control Deposit and sludge reduction
  15. MotoTribology

    Premix Ratio Richer Vs Leaner

    Right, when I speak with customers or am just having a conversation I try to always specify a rich or lean oil mixture to be clear. The typical nomenclature is in relation to the amounts of fuel and air being supplied though. More oil means less fuel, so it is "leaner" and less oil means more fuel so it is "richer". That is the generally accepted use of the terms. So when I talk about enriching or leaning the mix I try to specify that I am referring to rich and lean with regards to the oil itself and not the intake in general.