MotoTribology

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About MotoTribology

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    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Riding, spectating and lubricants.

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  1. For most machines, from what I've seen over the years, going one grade up or down is generally acceptable. A lot of machines will say that a range is acceptable depending on the outside temperatures so they are built with that variability in mind. Other bikes that specify only one acceptable grade might be a little more picky and maybe not run as well with other viscosities, but it likely isn't going to cause any actual harm. When talking about transmissions, usually going up a grade from a 10W-40 to a 15W-50 is no problem whatsoever unless you are getting a lot of overheating of the clutch or having other types of problems.
  2. That all depends on if they are just rebranding an engine oil as transmission oil or if it is an actual transmission oil. Oil formulated for transmissions is going to lack certain additives that you'd want in an engine oil, so you shouldn't run transmission oil in an engine unless it is an emergency since something is better than nothing. I've always found it odd that they call it a 10W-40 since that is an engine oil viscosity specification and not meant to describe transmission and gear oils.
  3. You are afraid of ethanol yet want to put acetone in your fuel?
  4. My father runs the MC-1 in his 82 IT. The H1-R is suitable for your bike even without powervalves and its good for both air or water-cooled bikes.. You might need to adjust the jetting compared to the settings it was at for the MC-1, but that should be the only potential downside.
  5. Yeah, chain and bar oil has similar properties to filter oil in that regard and I would definitely choose that over regular oil too. It might not be perfect, but it is a pretty darn good improvisation in lieu of an air filter specific oil. A really sticky chain lube could do the trick too in a pinch. The key is something that is sticky, can go on thin, and will dry out to the point that it won't run (an added plus is waterproof). Good filter oils will do all of these things. Chain and bar oil might not go on as thinly as desirable but it isn't too bad. A sticky aerosol chain lube would probably do all those things although it might actually still be a little underwhelming in the "dirt trapping" area.
  6. Yes you could use any oil, but it doesn't mean that specific oil for air filters isn't a better option. Filter oil compared to engine or gear oil should have a tacky consistency and should "dry in place" so it doesn't run out of the filter. The tacky properties are better at trapping dirt in the cells of the filter and allow for a lighter application so as not to obstruct air flow too much. Using regular oil is certainly an option, but it is also certainly not the best option.
  7. Yeah castor oil is generally unadditized or very low on additives. Unless you are planning on rebuilding that transmission very soon I wouldn't suggest running straight bean oil in there.
  8. Looking at the technical data on the Maxima site it looks like the only difference between the two of them is the color. All of their physical properties are exactly the same according to Maxima. The SDS does list some additional additives in the Fork Oil, but I couldn't say what difference they make in performance. The physical properties are the most important in suspension damping fluids.
  9. I know I said I wouldn't, but I'd rather not let people be led astray. trimethylolpropane tricaprylate is a type of polyol ester base fluid. It is very commonly used in engine oil mixed with other base oil types. If you are looking at the SDS and seeing the amount of trimethylolpropane tricaprylate and interpreting that as the total synthetic content in a synthetic oil, you are making an assumption that is likely not correct. Polyol esters are commonly mixed with other esters, PAO, and mineral oils in both 4-stroke and 2-stroke engine oils; of which, mineral oil is the only one universally required to be listed on an SDS. If you are assuming that the remaining percentage after disclosures on an SDS must be mineral oil, that is not correct. All mineral oil content must be displayed on an SDS to remain in compliance with international regulations. So if mineral oil isn't listed on the SDS, it isn't in the product. (and before that statement gets skewed to say something it doesn't, pretty much all oils contain at least trace amounts of mineral oil because mineral oil is used as the carrier fluid for most additives. In cases like this, a product containing or not containing mineral oil is really focused on the base oil only.) I'd like to stop repeating this statement, but it seems it needs restatement. Focusing on a single aspect with no regard to the total picture is not a good approach for this topic. If viscosity, VI, and flash point are the three most important things, mix bitumen (asphalt) into your gasoline. You won't find any thicker or higher flash point oil than that. At the temperatures variations in a 2-stroke engine, the viscosity would be extremely stable too so the VI properties would be terrific. You'd be following your own advice too, so no need to worry about "big oil" leading you into their devious trap.
  10. There are a lot of options for conventional JASO rated oils. The most up-to-date list can always be found here on JALOS's website: JASO 4T Engine Oil List If you are familiar with the brands, it'll be easier to pick out which ones are mineral/conventional/dino, but the whole list of officially registered products is there.
  11. With regard to everyone's comments of the differences between 10W-40 and 10W-30s (and really any viscosity): Clutch performance: Yes it can affect clutch feel and performance but it can also vary by brand so even though the 10W-40 of one brand may feel better than their 10W-30, you could have the 10W-30 of another brand feel better than their equivalent 10W-40. The viscosity and the additives both play a part in clutch performance and even though the viscosity will remain fairly uniform from one company to another the additives will vary. Fuel economy: gwool is basically correct in how a 10W-30 results in better fuel economy than a 10W-40. The more viscous oil leaches more power from the engine through pumping and it also takes more energy for the transmission gears to push through a 10W-40 compared to a 10W-30. Outside temperature: even though the engine heats up well beyond what the outside temperatures will be, the consideration is in cooling. Hot air doesn't dissipate heat as well as cold air does and you want to maintain a specific engine temp for performance while running. With air-cooled bikes, this is very worth considering. With water-cooled bikes this effect is significantly reduced, but it will still an effect on the overall engine temp even if its just a degree or two. Tolerances and journal sizes: Yes, the engine is designed with oil channels and whatnot for a specific oil viscosity. If you deviate too far from the recommendation, it can effect the oil delivery throughout the machine and result in some damage in the case of under-lubrication. That being said, most manufacturers design in some versatility. My general rule of thumb is that you can deviate 1 grade either up or down from the OEM recommendation and remain in the "safe range". A lot of manufacturers will list from SAE 30s to SAE 50s as being acceptable depending on the outside temperature. When I see a recommendation like that, it screams "A 10W-40 IS GOOD FOR ANY SITUATION" to me.
  12. Yeah suspension oils are a totally different beast. Engine and gear/transmission oils are strictly controlled by the SAE so they are all equivalent no matter what brand. Engine Oils: Gear/Transmission Oils:
  13. Thanks for the suggestion. There are a few reasons why I actually try to avoid doing that though. One of my goals with my content is to try to not bring brands into the discussion and keep everything on a purely technical level. I want my readers to be able to research these things for themselves; which is why I am trying to provide the tools to understand the information that is out there and how to decipher it. If I just provide a list of brands/products, yes it would be easy to read, but it could be wildly inaccurate after some formula changes by the various companies (which happen often). The information I am providing is purposely broad because it remains true across the board. I feel (and hope) it is more valuable because customers should be able to take my information and be able to apply it anywhere. If you know what to look for and what questions to ask, it becomes quite easy to get the answers you want.
  14. Thanks! I've been on a bit of a hiatus for a while, but I do have one in the works coming out soon.
  15. This is all the evidence that I need to tell me that you clearly haven't read any of my content and are just a troll with an axe to grind. I'm done trying to help you. Have fun, that tinfoil hat looks great