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About MotoTribology

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    New Jersey
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    Riding, spectating and lubricants.

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  1. If you are riding in warm weather, the important thing is to match the second number in the viscosity grade. Since the manual specs a 10W-40, the 10W-40 will be fine. As will a 15W-40, or 5W-40. If you are riding in the winter, you might need to pay more attention to the winter grade, but the most important is still the second number in the viscosity grade. That bike specs out from SAE 30 to SAE 50, so you are safe anywhere in that range. Just try to stick to JASO rated oils for wet clutch compatibility and a 10W-40 and that should serve you well in just about any situation.
  2. What's to remember? They're still around:
  3. Ummmm most of you are saying is absolutely true, but just one note. Moly dithiocarbamate or MoDTC absolutely will make a clutch slip if the concentration is too high. When MoDTC is used in moto oils meant for wet clutches, it is used very sparingly. But it is a friction reducing additive and will cause clutch slip if there is too much. Moly disulfide, MoS2 powder and MoDTC are both friction reducing additives though. MoS2 is rarely, if ever used, in an engine oils anymore. Too much downside for what little benefit it might offer. MoDTC is very common in automotive engine oils and is used in a number of moto engine oils too at low levels.
  4. You may need to adjust the jetting, or the mix ratio. Other than that, just depends on what happens. It might be dirtier, it might not prevent wear as well, it might be totally fine. Lots of people do just fine with mineral 2T oil, just like lots of people do fine with expensive synthetic oil. If you take care of the bike and maintain it as needed, the operation should be pretty much the same. The synthetic might require less maintenance over time, but there's only one way to know.
  5. Yes, deifnitely. If you go with the engine oils, the JASO MA/MA2 indicates wet clutch compatibility. If you go for a motorcycle specific transmission oil, usually the 80W or 85W oils are wet clutch compatible. Either way, it should have some mention of it on the bottle somewhere. No, some are better than others, but they all generally do the job. I'm not prepared to start a which-oil-is-best debate at this time.
  6. An 80W or 85W motorcycle transmission oil should be fine for that. You could also opt for an SAE 50 engine oil with JASO MA or MA2 registration.
  7. The short answer is no, unless there is a very good reason for it. The long answer includes explanations as to why the answer is usually no and can be read below. Aftermarket or over-the-counter (OTC) oil additives come in a few general variations: Performance Additives Viscosity Modifiers Cleaners Inhibitors Magic & Sci-Fi There can certainly be other types, but a vast majority of OTC additives fall into one of these categories. Performance additives generally include anti-wear, extreme pressure, and friction modifying additives. They often have some root in traditional oil formulations; meaning they are commonly used in existing oil formulations and advertised as "performance boosters". For the most part, as OTC additives, they are unpredictable at best, the marketing claims for their performance is rarely supported by any credible evidence, and they usually don't live up to the expectations. A big problem is: more rarely equals better for these additives, and simply adding them does not increase the advertised performance reliably. Many of these types of additives experience diminishing returns with regard to performance and their proportion of the lubricant formula. Other groups of them actually experience decreased performance with increased concentrations. So adding them to oils that already have additives providing this performance results in neither additive groups doing the job right. Another problem with these additives is their ability to disrupt the surface activity the additives of the original lubricant were designed to do. So by adding one of these chemicals, it is likely to diminish the original performance of the lubricant and substitute it with a potentially less effective replacement. There are undoubtedly many anecdotes of these types of additives doing good, but that is more than likely due to either luck or a placebo effect. Every oil formula is different and adding these random amount of random additives is unpredictable at best without knowing the original oil formulation and exactly what you are adding at what quantity. No additive I have ever come across would work in every formula at the exact same concentration. Viscosity modifiers are typically either high viscosity oil or a polymeric fluid. They are usually un-additized and therefore dilute the original lubricant's additive concentration. This is bad for similar reasons stated above regarding changing the additive concentrations. By changing the formula concentrations, you may be changing performance aspects that were balanced in the original formula to an unbalanced concentration. These additives can be useful in a few circumstances though. They can be temporary fixes to compression issues and leaks, but even in fixing those problems, you may introduce unintended consequences such as engine efficiency and oil supply through the pump. If it is the only way to get the bike somewhere for maintenance, it might be the best option, but still not good for normal use. Polymer fluids in motorcycles add an increased risk. The increase in viscosity is usually very temporary because these polymers are not often shear stable. So once they shear, you have no increase in viscosity and a diluted bulk of oil. So it is a lose-lose in that situation. Cleaners come in two main varieties: detergent/dispersant additives and flushing compounds. Detergents and dispersants are similar to the performance additives in the sense that they are very surface active and can disrupt the surface active additives of the original oil to its detriment. Detergents, dispersants, anti-wear, and friction modifiers are carefully balanced in oil formulas and increasing the detergent concentration can prevent those other additives from interacting with the metal surfaces where they normally would. Generally speaking, unless you have an engine in absolutely terrible shape, with regard to sludge and carbon deposits, a good oil already has more than enough of these additives in it to do the job. Flushing compounds are usually some sort of high solvency fluid meant to dissolve sludge and carbon deposits in dirty engines. These can be useful in very dirty and neglected engines as long as care is taken not to overdo it. If an engine has a high level of sludge and deposits, it is possible to release too much all at once and cause unintended harm by blocking oil flow or forcing that bulk of contaminants into areas it can do harm. So an engine flush can be useful, but care should be taken when doing so. Inhibitors usually take the form of antioxidants. These are safer than some other additive types because they aren't generally surface active chemicals. They do still dilute the overall additive concentration somewhat and can possibly throw off the balance of a formula to produce worse overall performance though. There is less risk in using these types, but still, your typical oil should have more than enough antioxidant additives in it to begin with and there is rarely a need for more to be added. One final thing I'll cover here is the "magic" and "sci-fi" group of additives. These are the types that usually make some pretty unbelievable claims. They are usually unbelievable for a reason; because they are nonsense. The claims by the "manufacturers" (usually marketers, not chemical manufacturers) are very lofty, always unproven and supported by anecdotes, and typically backed up by lots of buzz words and little substance in any true technical sense. Typical claims are: large increases in power and efficiency rebuilding of metal surfaces from the inside out fixing leaks with no effect on any other property of the oil "nano" (This prefix above all other things makes me cringe and look closer at marketing claims. Yes I will admit I am prejudiced against "nano" materials in lubricants, but I will also be the first to admit it when I see one that is proven to actually work as advertised.) Typical results are: nothing harm benefits claimed with zero evidence lighter wallet and again, nothing For a motorcycle with a wet clutch, one thing to especially look out for with any additives is whether it will affect the clutch. Some additives are right up front with it and say not to use it with a wet clutch, but others are less obvious. So in summary, yes there are a few circumstances where benefit can be had from using an OTC additive. In most cases though, there's not much to gain and they either result in a performance decrease or no change at all.
  8. I have absolutely no doubt in my mind that a majority of people improperly oil their air filters. The response, which had nothing to do with silicone, was to your assertion that all air filters release oil into the engine; so, no. Again, mine doesn't and a properly oiled filter should not introduce any measurable amount of oil to the engine; so no. The comment had nothing to do with silicone. My comment about volatile compounds was in response to your assertion that oils had no volatile components, which they do, and construing it to make it seem like I was saying oils used to make air filter oils might completely volatilize at ambient temperatures. Then you have not seen a machine with a properly oiled filter, which explains a lot of your beliefs on this topic.
  9. No, I'm not using silicone, but that is not relevant to the topic of whether it will leave the filter and enter the engine. I can see that the oil I applied to the filter is still in the filter and no significant amount has "disappeared". If you are doing it correctly, there is no excess oil to be ingested by the engine, or drip off the filter. The well supported fact you are thinking of is people do not properly oil their filters. If you are doing it right, there aren't any solvents left to evaporate by the time it is installed. Of course there are volatiles in oil. Oil is fractioned off through distillation columns and the purity of each fraction can only get so high. There are always some amount of lighter fractions in the higher oil viscosities. Hence, there are always at least a tiny amount of volatile organic compounds in any oil. That is why I mentioned that it would only be in the range of PPM measurements, because it is unlikely any more than that would evaporate, but it is still there.
  10. Mine doesn't I suppose if you went down to the ppm level you might find some oil vapors making their way in, but that will never result in an observable effect. Large quantities certainly will, but not what will evaporate due to air flow through the filter.
  11. Well yes, you do not want silicone getting into the engine since it won't mix well with the gasoline or any oil and could disrupt the films, but the point is you should not be getting air filter oil into the engine. It is supposed to stay in the air filter. If he is applying it correctly and not overdoing it, it should never make it into the engine. I rather not have any filter oil going into my engine, silicon or not.
  12. Those oils are a type of dimethyl siloxane I believe. Totally inert in any foreseeable situation they'd be put into. Silicon based compounds don't just turn into sand when around oxygen.
  13. As long as you have a way to clean out the silicone and it is tacky, I suppose it should do the job then. I don't know that it will be difficult to clean, just that typical solvents like mineral spirits probably won't do much. Soap and water might just lift it right off though.
  14. Just be sure the filter is clean before using it. If there are any solvent residues left over from previous cleaning, the silicone might not hold so well. On a side note, how big is that bottle? It looks like it would cover an area about 5 square inches.
  15. Change intervals and filtration for the most part. If your filtration is subpar or nonexistent, extending change intervals isn't really an option. And lots of people have a hard time pushing the change intervals to what a synthetic oil can do. So if you are going to continue with the same intervals you would use for a mineral oil, the added cost of the synthetic doesn't work out.