MotoTribology

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About MotoTribology

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  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Riding, spectating and lubricants.

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  1. Right, when I speak with customers or am just having a conversation I try to always specify a rich or lean oil mixture to be clear. The typical nomenclature is in relation to the amounts of fuel and air being supplied though. More oil means less fuel, so it is "leaner" and less oil means more fuel so it is "richer". That is the generally accepted use of the terms. So when I talk about enriching or leaning the mix I try to specify that I am referring to rich and lean with regards to the oil itself and not the intake in general.
  2. Any port in a storm, as they say. It'll work and certainly shouldn't do any damage. The best option though? Nah. A high VI suspension oil with the right 40C viscosity, good anti-wear, and low friction will be the best option. But unless you are concerned with the performance and need something more than just "any degree of damping" its all irrelevant.
  3. I don't know how old you are friend, but 105 years ago is far from "just now" in my opinion. Automatic Lubrication Unless you were referring to direct injection; in which case, who wants a dang-fangled computer strapped to their 2-stroke?
  4. Some oils are scented like Ipone strawberry scented oil. Something like that you'd probably be able to tell by scent, but regular 2-stroke oil won't give off enough scent to overpower fuel.
  5. About a 10W for most brands would be pretty close to a 5W-20 What in the world?! The 5W winter grade is measured at -30C and -35C and has a minimum viscosity of 3.8 cSt measured at 100C. No SAE engine oil viscosity is measured at 40C.
  6. Good advice above. Unless it is sitting for a year between rides or out in the rain, every 10 hours of ride time is fine.
  7. Yes its fine, the minimum rating listed is SG, and that you got meets SG and then some, so your good to go. The MA instead of the MA2 really shouldn't be a problem either. An MA2 oil should give better clutch performance, overall, but its unlikely you'd notice a difference on a stock KLX.
  8. C'mon man. 90's Yamahas
  9. http://products.petrochoice.com/system/documents/2738/1/Pro_Honda_HP_Trans_Oil_SAE.pdf?1439315289 Idemitsu makes most of Honda's oils
  10. If you are riding in warm weather, the important thing is to match the second number in the viscosity grade. Since the manual specs a 10W-40, the 10W-40 will be fine. As will a 15W-40, or 5W-40. If you are riding in the winter, you might need to pay more attention to the winter grade, but the most important is still the second number in the viscosity grade. That bike specs out from SAE 30 to SAE 50, so you are safe anywhere in that range. Just try to stick to JASO rated oils for wet clutch compatibility and a 10W-40 and that should serve you well in just about any situation.
  11. What's to remember? They're still around: http://www.blendzall.com/
  12. Ummmm most of you are saying is absolutely true, but just one note. Moly dithiocarbamate or MoDTC absolutely will make a clutch slip if the concentration is too high. When MoDTC is used in moto oils meant for wet clutches, it is used very sparingly. But it is a friction reducing additive and will cause clutch slip if there is too much. Moly disulfide, MoS2 powder and MoDTC are both friction reducing additives though. MoS2 is rarely, if ever used, in an engine oils anymore. Too much downside for what little benefit it might offer. MoDTC is very common in automotive engine oils and is used in a number of moto engine oils too at low levels.
  13. You may need to adjust the jetting, or the mix ratio. Other than that, just depends on what happens. It might be dirtier, it might not prevent wear as well, it might be totally fine. Lots of people do just fine with mineral 2T oil, just like lots of people do fine with expensive synthetic oil. If you take care of the bike and maintain it as needed, the operation should be pretty much the same. The synthetic might require less maintenance over time, but there's only one way to know.
  14. Yes, deifnitely. If you go with the engine oils, the JASO MA/MA2 indicates wet clutch compatibility. If you go for a motorcycle specific transmission oil, usually the 80W or 85W oils are wet clutch compatible. Either way, it should have some mention of it on the bottle somewhere. No, some are better than others, but they all generally do the job. I'm not prepared to start a which-oil-is-best debate at this time.
  15. An 80W or 85W motorcycle transmission oil should be fine for that. You could also opt for an SAE 50 engine oil with JASO MA or MA2 registration.