Jump to content

ThumperHead

Members
  • Content Count

    330
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ThumperHead

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    California

Recent Profile Visitors

508 profile views
  1. There enough room for a chain breaker tool used pressing out a link pin? On the stuck piston with the head off, thinking mount a steel cross bar secured by head bolts threaded all the way into the cylinder with a big threaded bolt and nut, 3/4" diameter thread works great being strong. Add a metal slug of aluminum a disc slightly smaller than the bore of at least 1/2" thick placed on top of the piston. With a propane torch heat the barrel a couple times adding penetrating oil over a couple days time. Use the bolt as a press applying pressure on the piston also making sure your not at TDC or BDC, the rings should break free. Use common sense applying the amount of pressure on top of the piston, not a King Kong wrenching ripping out the head bolts.....~~=o&o>.......
  2. Good to read your reply as common sense vs one's opinions have two different results. Adding grease slowly not by pneumatic powered lube guns (common sense prevails again). You had a bike that functioned smoothly suspension travel wise vs rusted up garbage with costly parts replacements. BTW, which island as well the nearest city or town your at? I have a fellow licensed aircraft (A&P) mechanic who married a NZ woman and worked at a tour helicopter company. He and I go back to 1972, both still into Norton's. Was told come down to NZ as there is a Norton waiting for me to ride long as I want including 2-3 months no problem. I rebuilt his engines and transmissions so no worries on his part maintaining his bikes. Just got to convince the wifey I need a solo vacation, stay long as I want including stopping no time or distance schedules like those expensive bike touring adventures. Hell Oz. will be on that trip also being that close. Any Matchless 500 thumpers running around? Cheers, Carl.....~~=o&o>......
  3. I must have a large "inertia" device in my thumper as it will pull and pull the bike up Sonora Pass for 23 minutes to 9,600' elevation in 2nd and 3rd gear down to 10 to 15 mph with several 180 degree tight turns.....~~=o&o>.......
  4. Here ya go a XR350 offered really cheaply. Fully adjustable shock XR's vs XL's having one only adjustment. Only distraction the owner had to use JB Weld on the gas tank as it was rusted out and leaking gasoline.Note the perfect frame with zero paint rubbed off it from riding boots, as well the frame and front down tube also looking too glossy of paint touch up but sell noting the BEST XL350 OUT THERE. What's a 2,900 original mile 85 XL350 with a perfect gas tank no past leaking rusty holes, I should ask $5,000, NOT! Ebay add made me laugh......~~=o&o>...... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-honda-xl350r/372242140998?_trkparms=aid%3D888008%26algo%3DDISC.CARDS%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20190920090938%26meid%3D7282eb8ea30a40178e140cacc66eea85%26pid%3D100035%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D153678319490%26itm%3D372242140998%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100035.m1982
  5. "As Motogiant posted people overfill the pocket with grease" well that's the peoples fault not knowing what they are doing not the item with a zerk fitting. "This why mechanics don't recommend zerk fittings" that's just one mechanic's or several mechanic's opinion protecting people not having a clue what they are doing, do not place everyone in that same group of non mechanical ability people not having a clue or common sense. "If the design has no seals, user is knowledgeable, or unable to remove bearing assembly easily zerks work" no kidding someone with common sense with mechanical abilities as certain bearings having seals which can be properly greased without blowing the seals out. Bearings without seals greasing them displaces water, dirt and grit last time I checked. How can water, dirt and grit overcome thick grease entering a bearing even unsealed bushings or needle bearings unless blasted with a pressure washing? Even sealed bearings will get water contamination from pressure washer blasting forcing waster and soap if used past the seals a small amount. Let water or soapy water do its rusting thing or purge the bearing with fresh grease displacing water, dirt and grit you now forced in. Your call I know what procedure I use on my equipment. Example, on average by 150K miles Land Rover owners by service writer quotes dealing with SUV's sporting lifetime non zerk fitting (lifetime) tie rod ends and ball joints the owners will need their 2nd to 3rd set of replacements. Zerks added to non zerk lifetime rod ends and ball joints of factory original new are still snug stiff at 143K miles as example on my Land Rover. I know what works for me, do what works for you, not getting into a pissing war.....~~=o&o>......
  6. Title about explains it all in regards to the 84 XL250 pegs only onto a 85 XL350 peg mounting brackets. Reason asking, wanting to modify pegs making up a pair being longer for full width of shoe support. Keeping originals purchasing a pair off ebay. Figured more owners and action with XR's vs Enduro or a XL forum. Thanks in advance. Carl.....~~=o&o>.......
  7. Look at the bright side, the chain didn't bunch up blowing out the bottom of the case. Have the welder Vee out the two pieces for a wider and stronger filler bead. The engine out of the frame and possibly welded without splitting the cases? That would be nice......~~=o&o>......
  8. Sorry my bad. Below me a newer reply "new cases" i'd be looking for a set of good used empty cases long before shelling out for new ones being it's a 12 year old bike. Just saw your photo of the pocket the guide slips into. That pocket looks deep enough to hold the guide in place provided it has some mechanical means to keep the guide pressured downwards into the pocket. If so hell i'd assemble and ride it now seeing the whole picture unless the broken piece had pressure on the guide keeping it parallel vs possibly twisting now. Dry fit assemble and check the guide's alignment, good then assemble or better yet have it Tig welded back on.....~~=o&o>......
  9. We did that schitt in the 60's proving Schwinn's tough as nails bicycle forks can be broken. We survived that era including riding motorcycles years belfore helmet laws came along......~~=o&o>.......
  10. Your cases are a matched set, left and right so do not mix by replacing it. Get it welded no matter how ugly of a Tig weld done by a local welding shop as it's inside the engine. Just make sure it's a secure and a strong weld plus check for any clearance issues with the crank before final assembly. My opinion it's there to catch oil and directing the oil into the main bearing. I wouldn't run it with that piece removed. Why did the manufacture go through the added trouble tooling the die with this added feature, they had a reason?......~~=o&o>........
  11. Wow a XR400 with "around the 50ft lbs of torque" when the 96 XR600 of 46 Hp only produced 38.8 ft/lbs torque at 5,5,00 rpm's. Just think a 74 in 1,200cc Harley producing 150 ft/lbs torque. It would need every bit of that to move one......~~=o&o>......
  12. New bikes yes having zero interest in them, rode several with the 85 XL350 the newest bike in the collection. Been riding bikes 60 years and as a passenger at age 5 before riding by myself. So fittings are not recommended, who says that may I ask? Lifetime lubed and sealed bearing is one thing but what explains the above bearing being a bunch of rust posted above? Another lifetime bearing like a lifetime tie rod end or suspension parts which means when it fails it's lifetime is over? Short life. Not to start a pissing war weantright, just respecting and expecting machinery to run a long time at my end.....~~=o&o>......
  13. I would not use a hardened tip center punch but instead use a flat blunt end of a brass drift knocking out any hardened bearing race. Chipping the bearing as well wasting the center punch tip. Must mention that outer race bearing picture showing an outer diameter groove, it's there for a reason, allowing grease to be injected into the assembled part relubing the bearing's needles and inner bearing race. Must ask, where are the zerk fittings as they should be in the center of each bearing location on the triangle link within the same location of the grease channel? Cutting corners again production saving on labor plus additional parts added? Triangle links on older bikes have a zerk on every pivot point location which is great for relubing the bearings also displacing water after playing submarine or a pressure wash.....~~=o&o>.......
  14. Good question not knowing what parts swap between 250's and 350 XL's??? I bet there are a lot of parts swap possibilities like an engine "if" swap as example. I have a 85 XL350, the rear shock with spring measures fully extended is 14 5/8" dead nuts center to center at the bolts. Compare this to yours or another member chiming in measurements. On another note look into an XR swing arm as they are longer than a XL swing arm at least on the 350's something like 2" longer. That would raise the back of bike with it angled downwards. Again another "will it swap" 350 XR into your 250 XL? Your already dealing with normal chain protection wear above the swing arm, angling it down more increasing this wearing problem mentioned above. If for looks only is one thing, riding it the handling would be degraded. Give KoubaLing an email to see if they have a different length rear link that will fit. Word of caution with KoubaLink as I have a 650L link and was told it will not fit into the yoke on the XL350, wrong it did fit after a slight Dremal sanding drum blending taking 30 seconds blending the machined to cast transition, big deal! Lowering bike project this end still maintaining proper front to rear suspension geometry. I can slip the forks up the triple clamps but how are you going to lower your fork tubes to correct for the raised back of your bike? Longer fork tubes off a different model bike? ......~~=o&o>......
  15. Not a problem, check valve up high, filter before it with a long tube down to near the bottom of the frame. Check valve also maintaining a slight crankcase vacuum which helps in preventing oil leaks. Excessive blowby would have to overpower the check valve, filter and tubing's flow by a massive amount before positive crank case pressures build resulting in seals and gaskets starting to weep or leak. By that time that engine is already toast and a mosquito abatement machine. Timed check valve by rotating disc another bike manufacture way used controlling crank case pulses generated by parallel twin engines of 750 & 850 cc's. That's a lot of huffing going on internally including 1,000 cc BMW boxer engines still well controlled resulting having a slight vacuum in the crank case......~~=o&o>.......
×
×
  • Create New...