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  1. 317

    2004 CR250R with over 800hrs

    Regardless if the hours, pull the piston and check for cracks on the skirt, especially on the intake side. They like to start collapsing after a lot of hours and that’s generally what breaks off and ends up in the bottom of the engine destroying everything.
  2. 317

    2003 cr250 pipe on 2002 cr250

    In 2003 I put an 03 pipe on my 02 and ran it that way for a couple of years...
  3. 317

    99 cr250 power valve not workimg

    You are luck then, most of the time the shaft gets smashed and broken and it’s not cheap to replace or easy to find anymore. Glad you got it figured out, once you get the shafts working together the manual should walk you through how to set and adjust it. If you have anymore questions let us know.
  4. 317

    99 cr250 power valve not workimg

    Generally what happens is when the cylinder is put back on the cases no one pays attention and the crow’s foot on the drive shaft gets smashed by the pin on the pinion shaft.
  5. 317

    Keihin PWK number 8 slide?

    That should be a good starting point if the bike is mechanically sound. You might find that you’ll have to lean it out just a little for you elevation/temps though. If the squish hasn’t been checked or corrected then keep an ear out for detonation @ high load, large throttle openings and low-mid RPM.
  6. 317

    2001 Honda cr250

    32 hole is right. Any full-size Honda rear wheel 2000-2012 should fit, but the125/250F’s will be the narrower 1.85 width vs the 2.15 you’ll want to look for. FWW is largerly rider preference but if you’re on the fence a out which one experience has taught me to err on the heavier side vs the lighter. Good luck.
  7. 317

    Hanging idle

    Seven times out of ten it’s the left side crank seal every time. If it hasn’t been replaced in the last two years then do it even if it’s just for the piece of mind. Sometimes, but not always, the Honda’s will ‘idle up’ when you pull in the clutch on the stand because it will pull air through the clutch cable. Other suspect areas include the base gasket where it meets the perpendicular mating plane of the case halves (front and rear) and the reed cage gasket. You’ll never be able to jet out an air leak so make sure you’re all sealed up before swapping any more brass; Good luck!
  8. Pressure test it to find out if you have an air leak or not, you can search for the ‘how to’ on here if you’re not familiar with the procedure. If the left side crank seal is good (it should be if you replaced it in the rebuild) then the other areas to look closely at is the reed cage gasket and @ the base gasket where it mates to the case halves (front and rear).
  9. 317

    slant FCR mid-body gasket replacement

    Thanks for the feedback, I’ll throw it together and repost back. Fingers crossed that this is the problem.
  10. 317

    slant FCR mid-body gasket replacement

    Where exactly is everyone applying the epoxy? As seen in my photo there doesn’t appear to be much, if any when I took the carb apart. My seals just showed up so I’m hoping to get to two of them today or tomorrow. Thank you in advance.
  11. 317

    Rm85 radiator problems

    Ditto on the water pump. The impeller is plastic, if it gets too hot the center bore on the impeller will melt; the shaft will still spin but the impeller won’t. The rest should be self explanatory.
  12. 317

    slant FCR mid-body gasket replacement

    Yes, they all use variations of the FCRMX in different sizes and according to the seller I purchased from all use the same mid-body gasket. I went ahead and tore the 150R carb in half last night since it’s the easiest to get out...I was hoping to find the gasket in much worse shape as what I found doesn’t inspire much hope, but that doesn’t mean it wasn’t the problem. Also, I used diesel as the ‘cleaner’ in the ultra sonic knowing that carb cleaner can be a bit too harsh. No turning back now, but you’ll have to let me know what you think.
  13. 317

    slant FCR mid-body gasket replacement

    CCG, thank you for the reply. I’m actually battling three different bikes that are all suffering from the same symptoms, 08 CRF150R, 09 CRF250R and an 05 CRF450R...as you can see size doesn’t seem to be a factor. All have fresh engines, perfect cam timing, new timing chains/tensioners, new spark plugs, tested and swapped electrical systems, etc. etc. Once you get them to start they run mostly fine at anything above low engine speeds, but getting them started is a major pain and they will not idle for anything. I’ve been everywhere with the pilot jet (+/- 4 sizes from ‘normal’) with new fuel srews and o-rings and nothing ever changes. I have even gone so far as to borrow a buddy’s ultra sonic cleaner and have ran all the carbs through it for 2hrs each. This seemed to help, but only in the slightest and was barely noticeable. I’ve ordered the gaskets and will be doing this as soon as they get here. Thank you for the info, and fingers crossed that this works, I have just about exhausted every other path.
  14. 317

    slant FCR mid-body gasket replacement

    Great post, thank you for sharing. Curious though, what we’re all the symptoms that lead you to this repair?
  15. 317

    Honda CR250 rebuild

    Yes!! They cost $15-20 maybe and the time involved isn’t that bad, at least for the dry seal on the ignition side, which is the one that usually goes first and causes most of the problems.
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