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bofar

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About bofar

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    Utah

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  1. bofar

    '71 Honda CL100 Running Rough!

    Thanks mate!
  2. bofar

    '71 Honda CL100 Running Rough!

    Thanks, LaVern! Yeah, I've stumped also. I checked the spark plug and it seemed to be sparking well but I figured I'd throw in a new one anyways (cheap and simple). I did that last night with no real improvement. I just ordered a new carb kit. I'm going to replace the gaskets and O-rings to see if that helps. I also charged up the battery last night so i'm hoping between the plug, new carb kit, and battery it'll fix the problem. Thanks for the tips!
  3. bofar

    '71 Honda CL100 Running Rough!

    Beautiful! Thanks! I found another shop manual but the quality was so bad you could hardly read it. This one is way better. Thanks again.
  4. Ok, so I just got a 1971 Honda CL100 ...only it's more like It starts, but not very easily. Once started, it runs very rough. I pulled the carb, removed jets, soaked it in carb cleaner, blew it with compressed air, the works. All passages are clean and clear. I was hoping that would solve my problem but no such luck. I've messed with the fuel/air screws but nothing seems to help much. It idles for a few minutes but will eventually bog down and die. When giving it throttle it will rev a bit but too much and it will bog down and die. It is gutless when riding on it. I've spent a good bit of time researching. It sounds like a vacuum leak could be the culprit. I sprayed starter fluid on both ends of the carb and it seems to be sealed (from what I can tell). The battery is dead as the lights will only turn on while it's running and will only stay on for less than a minute once it dies. Could that be causing any problems? I wouldn't think so, but someone on a form I read mentioned these bikes don't run well on a dead battery. I don't know enough about the jets or sizes to know if I should swap one out for a different size. The PO put a fuel filter in the fuel line from the tank to the carb. It seems to have good flow but maybe not enough? The spark plug has a chalky residue on it. I read this means it's running lean but like I said, the air/fuel screws don't change much when I mess with them. I'm hoping someone has the magic answer. Thanks for the help! Here's a video so you can see/hear how it's running:
  5. Anyone out there have a suggestion?
  6. Hey guys. I could really use your help diagnosing an issue that came up riding today. Bike is a 2013 YZ450F. Well maintained and haven't had any issues until now. Both the oil and coolant are new and levels are to spec. Issue After riding for about an hour in the sand dunes, I noticed a grinding going on on the right side of the bottom end (from what I could tell). When I looked to see what was going on my kickstarter was vibrating and grinding really loud. This was a different sound than if you engaged the kickstarter while running. It sounded less "clanky" and more "vibrating/grinding" if that makes sense. Grabbing the kickstarter and moving it didn't help the issue. When I noticed it, I shut the bike off and gave it a second. Being a few miles deep into the dunes, I had to get it out of there so I started it back up and it seemed fine- no grinding. I headed back to the car and after a few minutes, it came back so I shut it off again, started it back up and nothing. That process happened one or two more times before I made it back to the truck. Seemed to run fine otherwise. Once I got it back to the truck I started it up and tried to pay more attention to what was going on but it wasn't doing it. I did seem to have more of a metal on metal noise coming from the motor. I started and stopped the bike a few times and after the motor stopped there was a distinct metal clank/grinding noise that happened right after the motor shut of for maybe half a second. This doesn't happen every time. I tried doing some research and have seen things that make me think it could be the spring that connects to the kickstarter, or the kickstarter stopper plate- but really I have no idea. Seems strange that the issue is off and on. Thanks for the help!
  7. I've been looking around for a reasonably priced cylinder head for my 1982 XL500R. I found one from a 1982 XL500. Can someone tell me if that will fit? They look identical but I've looked all over and can't find anything definite about whether or not it will fit. Many thanks.
  8. I read somewhere that that might be the case, but it doesn't seem to change the noise when I engage the clutch.
  9. Thanks! Didn't even cross my mind but that would make sense. Especially if it's a bit loose. I'll look into that.
  10. I'm new to KTM's. Just bought a used 2011 SXF 450. It sounds different than other bikes I've had int he past. I just want to make sure there isn't anything out of the ordinary... peace of mind, really. The sound I'm hearing is more significant on the right side of the bike. There is no knocking or ticking from what I can tell, just a noisier engine then I'm used to. I hear KTM's have a thinner engine case, so maybe that's why. I also hear the timing chain tensioner tends to be an issue with these bikes. Please take a listen to the video and let me know what you think. Thanks!
  11. I'm new to KTM but glad to be here. Just bought a used 2011 SXF 450. It sounds different than other bikes I've had int he past. I just want to make sure there isn't anything out of the ordinary... peace of mind, really. The sound I'm hearing is more significant on the right side of the bike. There is no knocking or ticking from what I can tell, just a noisier engine then I'm used to. I hear KTM's have a thinner engine case, so maybe that's why. I also hear the timing chain tensioner tends to be an issue with these bikes. Please take a listen to the video and let me know what you think. Thanks!
  12. I can find a used one of these for around $200 USD which doesn't seem too crazy. Muzz67- I'll have to look around to see what I can get this repaired for. What is the correct term for that? Seems like I've seen line boring thrown around in this context. Just don't want to sound like an idiot when I call around. Thanks guys.
  13. I just bought a 1982 XL500R to restore (famous first words). I've got it all in pieces now, top end apart, and I found an unexpected issue (famous last words). The camshaft is significantly worn down and there is a bunch of metal buildup on the cylinder head journals where the end of the camshaft sits. Am I SOL or is this something a machine shop can fix? I fully expect to have to get a new camshaft, but the cylinder head/valves are a bit more expensive and harder to track down so I'm hoping its salvageable. It looks to mee like the metal has built on the journals up from the camshaft, not worn down the journals so I'm hoping that's a good thing. Thanks for the help!
  14. bofar

    XL500r Engine Knock... Thoughts?

    Good call! Thanks, I will be sure to dig a little further. Forgive my ignorance, but let's assume the piston seized. To my understanding this damages the cylinder. So when I get in there, I'm looking for grooves or damage to the piston or cylinder? What is the solution here? Is boring the cylinder and a new piston the only solution to a seized piston? The bike starts up and seems to run fine (so the position is no longer 'seized'), minus the knocking sound. Is this knocking sound explained by the piston hitting the cylinder? Thanks!
  15. bofar

    XL500r Engine Knock... Thoughts?

    Thanks for the input! Good advice. I will dig into this thing to look for metal shavings. Am I just looking for bent rocker arms, damage to the valve and tension of the timing chain? The oil was topped off recently. It leaks a bit so it wasn't totally full but not significantly low, either. Thanks again.
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