coyoteduster4406

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About coyoteduster4406

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    New Jersey
  1. Ok. Thanks for all your help Ohio!
  2. No, in neutral.
  3. Already have it. No way I would want to try and tune this thing without one.
  4. Took it for a short ride around the block, throttle response is instant. Couldn't really jam on it with a school down the street and people everywhere, but the bike squats and pulls with just a quick jam of the throttle. Stills stalls out at idle with a full throttle turn. Perhaps this is normal?
  5. I checked and verified that the AP arm is engaged immediately with throttle operation. The wear in the eyelet is not causing a delay in engagement. Oh, and the initial leak out the overflow is gone now. I found yesterday that I had bent the float tab in such a way to cause the needle to stick open when filling from empty. That has been corrected.
  6. Ok, so i pulled the carb yesterday before work. Changed out needle to dxp on 5this clip, reset the float height (it was low by a mm), and this morning checked the AP squirt and adjusted it so it's just a little over a second, missing the slide. It is now idling no problem at 2.5 turns out. Haven't ridden it yet but throttle response is nice and snappy everywhere except with a hard twist of the throttle at idle. Half throttle gets me a pop with no climb in RPM, full throttle kills the bike. I'm just at the point with the mixture screw where an 1/4 turn leaner starts to drop the idle speed, 1/2 more noticeably so. At that point I can't really raise the idle speed with the adjustment knob. Advice from here?
  7. OK, I'll change out to the dxp, 5th clip. Just pulled the carb and my squirt is missing the slide but seems too long so I'll play with the linkage forks a bit. Float level is off again, I don't know how it keeps getting out of whack, I had this bastard at exactly 9mm before I put it back in. I appreciate the responses guys. I'll post again once it's all back together.
  8. I have tried several times on prime since first fill up and it never overflows a drop. It is a new needle and the float seat did not looked damaged or corroded in any way. I pulled the carb three times because of the float height. Everytime I would set it to 9mm using a digital caliper to confirm and being sure the plunger on the bottom of the needle was not being depressed. I'm pulling the carb again right now so I'm gonna check it again. I don't know if I'm bumping the float when I'm putting the bowl back on or something, but it is never back at 9mm when I recheck it.
  9. Just saw you said dpx, not sure if that's a typo or a different needle from original OBDXP
  10. I have the original dxp that was in the carb, is that preferable? If so what clip position?
  11. E airboot, and I have the breather tube plumbed back into it if that makes a difference.
  12. Oh and my elevation is around sea level, I'm in southern NJ, not much elevation around here
  13. Anybody?
  14. Hi everyone. I just recently converted my 400SM over to an FCR39 slant style carburetor. I am have issues with getting the bike to idle correctly and was hoping someone with more knowledge may be able to point me in a direction. My setup is as follows. 05 DRZ400SM with full Yoshi RS-3 exhaust, long spark arrestor installed, 3x3 mod, and Hot Cams (not sure if stage 1 or 2, installed by previous owner). CE circuit removed and plugged. Eddie mod performed to the AP and the rod is not bottoming out, though I never visually verified the squirt duration. 160 main, 200 main air 45 Pilot, 100 pilot air EMN needle clip 3 I cleaned the carb and replaced every o ring in it, as well as a new float needle and choke assembly. Float level is set at 9mm without depressing the float pin. And I was careful not to knick the AP diaphragm when grinding down the stopper. The bike will idle with the choke on and after a few minutes I can get it to idle without choke at around 2.5 turns out on my flex jet, but it seems to be stumbling the whole time like it can stall out at any point. Also, engaging the AP at idle with a quick turn of the throttle instantly kills the bike. I am wondering if 2.5 turns has the bike idling too rich and this is why the AP immediately kills it? Am I just not letting it warm up enough? Engine is definitely hot to the touch. One more thing thato I thought was strange. When I first reinstalled the tank and turned my pet cock to prime, it let gas out the overflow until I turned it back to on (stock SM petcock). Afterwards, turning petcock back to prime yields no overflow. Is this normal? Thanks for any help.