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About aviator79

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  1. aviator79

    1990 DR350s hanging idle

    I had this post bookmarked because I had/have issues with starting dr250...still cant start it https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1235411-cleaned-carb-dr250-and-small-jet-in-float-bowl-idk-what-its-for-1990/?page=2#comment-13936313 Replaced all the seals in carb and still struggle to get it started. Broke my leg so its not easy when it wont start after a few kicks. Is there an AM carb I can buy for it?
  2. aviator79

    My dirtbike accident that just changed my life!

    Sucks. Hope you heal well. Broke my leg last year on my DRZ and was in the hospital for a month. I too was not wearing my boots.
  3. aviator79

    1990 DR350s hanging idle

    Im sure this is no help but have you made sure the rear right hand side tube to carb is clear? And bottom float line is clear?
  4. Also the o-ring that I got from here 13374-46710 http://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_dr350_orings.html for the float cage was too large and would not seat. This could have been another issue. I replaced it with the one that came in the kit I bought and it seated properly K&L Economy Carburetor Rebuild Kit #18-9310 Suzuki $23.63 shipped I also replaced the float valve, float valve seat w oring and float bowl gasket with what came in that kit. I am missing one seal 13556-44B00 that goes on both sides of the throttle shaft #14: https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr250se-1990-l-usa-e03_model15951/partslist/BLCK0009.html#results It is basically a felt seal to block air and debris. I put on oring on shaft and filled with grease so hopefully will work without it for now. Now to install and see if runs...
  5. Still not sure if this jet is working right but cannot remove so we will see... I sealed this with permatex #2 form a gasket. I am still not clear on these ports/jets.
  6. Almost done putting it back together but I am not sure I can get the plunger to seal on the carb without some sealant or something so think I will get some silicone grease (solid, not spray). I was unable to get a wire to go thru one of the front jets. I can get carb cleaner to spray thru it and I can catch the hole in the main jet tube but I wonder if the main jet tube is twisted slightly so the hole does not line up. There is also a hole on the intake side that may just be a dummy hole that is used for 350 or other bike but I cannot trace it with a wire either. Along with that I am not clear as to what the hoses coming off the carb do or where they go. Front right is plugged. I will redo the plug I made. Rear right goes up into frame. For oil pressure? Tiny bottom just seams to be a drain?
  7. Tube is clear. Now does it actually seal? I doubt it so could be causing flooding.
  8. I am trying to make sure the fuel enrichment tube (the external copper tube) is clear but without pulling it off i am having a hard time. EDIT: I can stick a wire down nearly the whole ting to the bowl and stick a wire down the tube that is in the bowl and seam clear. I try to spray carb cleaner but so many holes to plug. Spray air from compressor and do not feel it but IDK. Will keep on working on it.
  9. I do not think there is a leak on the top of carb. When I hold the slide up for a minute it still comes right back down. Sprayed soapy water around top seal while pushing slide up and no bubbles so I do not think there is a leak in diaphragm of upper seal. I am rebuilding the carb again but am about to call it. Bought a new float valve and gasket kit but I think the choke really needs to be replaced as the boot is shot and at $30+ a whole new carb would just make more sense if I knew what carb to buy. I have taken it all apart; removed choke, diaphragm, shaft and butterfly valve. But the choke is bent and as I said the rubber boot is shot thou it may just be a dust seal so no vac leak. I might as well put it back together but feel that I am spinning my wheels. But maybe the float valve was just bad so I guess it is worth a shot.
  10. So just took dr250 for a ride. Same issues. It seems to only start w/o choke. And needs starting fluid. Wont idle until warm which is normal but ussually would half choke until warm?idk maybe always that way. Really slow to idle down from revs which to me clearly indicates carb issues. Possibly throttle cable issues... It is a bit hesitant. Rides ok but seems low on power as far as i can tell though ive been on drz400 mostly so i know its slower but it definitely is not running right. Seems that it is clearly gas/carb issue. Thinking air leak so rich off throttle and lean on? ...idk. Will have to pull carb again i guess but ive no idea what to try as there are no adjustments.
  11. Put jet/restrictor in and made sure it would stay. New o-rings. Bike still wont start and run right... IDK why I cannot delete pic I uploaded by mistake.
  12. I just verified all the 0-rings are the same for 250 minus needle 13295-29900 which 250 does not have and THROTTLE-SLIDE-GUIDE. I also did not purchase starter or rear shock head o-ring as have no starter and not doing rear shock even if they are the same which ive no idea as they do not list PN but they probably are so I probably should have bought but oh well. $11 shipped.
  13. That is where I was going to get them. Cycle shop has the float needle housing for $6. I just need to figure out what other o-rings are the same between 250/350 as a quick search shows that the DR350 uses 09280-12008 on crankcase oil line whereas 250 uses 0928012009 on crankcase.
  14. Oh, I did not understand what you meant but now I see. I will have to order the o-rings and then I will put that jet pack in place hopefully can get it to stay.it I guess it is not so much a jet as a restrictor. The tube that it feeds in the carb already has a very small orifice but I assume this serves some purpose. The o-ring being bad where the float connects to carb where that tube sticks out could also be causing problems. THANKS!
  15. Found this post: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/anatomy-of-a-dr350-carb-help-with-nomenclatures.497917/ IDK if ok to post link to other forums but DR350 basically has same carb other than that needle valve AFAI can tell. My float was stuck. Cleaned and replaced float needle valve housing o-ring, #24 (13374-35C00) (Mcmaster Carr 9263K137) with one I found off HPFP sensor that fit OK as mine was shot. The other float o-ring #19 which feed a jet at front of carb is also bad (1337446710) so I will have to buy new ones. Bike started and rode fine after it warmed up but still hard to restart. Could be that bad o-ring flooding crank but IDK. My leg is too shot to try kicking it over when it wont start easy so did not try very hard. I have no idea why that jet in first pic was in the float tank.