idratherberiding

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About idratherberiding

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  1. Yes.. what sort of epoxy is the question
  2. This is off my 2006 yz250. It's a mounting bracket that attaches the expansion chamber to the frame. The rubber part is separating from the metal. What can I use to bond it back together? Not sure what will bond rubber to metal. Thanks
  3. Thanks. Im guessing its shorting out somewhere since the resistance the stator is giving me is much higher than the manual. Ive read a few threads of ppl replacing the entire system only for it to continue the issue
  4. So I should have continuity from the rectifier to ground? Because one of the tests for the stator is to ensure there is no continuity to ground
  5. hahahha at least the cop knew how to shift to N. I'm surprised he didn't shoot them. That's why my bikes have street plates. Closest call I had was riding down town, a cop stopped beside me, asked if that thing has a plate, I said yeah! Pointed to the rear and he took off. No mirror or blinkers either :S. Mind you I wasn't riding on peoples grass
  6. What AC voltage should I be getting from a wr450 stator at half throttle? 2012 wr450
  7. 2012 WR450, bought it in the fall and am starting to fix it up. The battery looks fairly new, Previous owner said it's new. It charges fine and will start the bike with E-start. But throughout ride it drains, won't e-start and then the bike starts running like crap and the engine light goes on. I pulled the headlight bulb and that helped a bit but still started to run bad after more riding. I charged the battery last night, was at 12.8V throughout the day. Put it on the bike, started it a few times, rode it for 5 minutes. Now is at 12.6V I went through the troubleshooting process. On the wiring harness, I tested the stator plug. The specs are 0.52-0.78 Ohms, pin 1 and 2 showed .7 Ohms. Pin 1 and 3 showed 6.7 Ohms, pin 2 and 3 around the same (7 Ohms). I'm guessing if this is the problem, it's in pin 3. Not sure if that's enough of a difference in Ohms though. Then put the voltmeter to the rectifier/regulator and ran the bike. Specs are 14V @5000rpm. It never got past 4.8V and I was revving it well past 5000rpm. Was at about 2.8V on idle. Now, is the stock stator failing common for these 2012 WR450s? Has anyone else dealt with this and knows what the results of the testing is showing? I'd rather not buy both a battery and stator, I'd like to figure out exactly what it is then fix/replace. If rewiring the stator/cleaning it out is an option too that would be great Also, the error code it gave me was 4 long flashes, then 6 short flashes. Kept repeating that when I turn the bike on. Check engine light
  8. How big of a difference did you feel when you put an aftermarket muffler on. Im running the stock with the small end cap taken out but it still is running choked up and popping on deceleration. Am thinking of FMF powercore 4, will that fix my issues? Will I need a remap?
  9. Ill try that oil. Cheaper than ysmalube 4T? I change oil every 8 hours The chain and cams looked very good. I didnt notice any wear on the gears or even the lobes. The odometer states 3900km but for all I know he could have removed the magneto for 10,000km. The bike does look ridden. Next thing I do engine wise will be a compression test
  10. Thanks guys. Thats what I was looking for. It starts up fine cold with the kicker now, e start not working still but I'm guessing that's an efi issue. as far as the timing chain, a buddy has owned 2 wr450 2011s, with the 5 valve head. He got around 50,000km out of both and never replaced anything in the engine on either bike. Aside from shimming the valves. That's the reason I bought this bike. So no I will not be replacing the timing chain or tensioner at 4000km on the engine
  11. Ok, here's the question I need answered. Its a simple one.. Anyone with a 2012 WR450 (5 valve head): Do you line the cams up with the |-----| Or the | The H comes first, then a few mm later the I.
  12. It was off one tooth I'm guessing. There was no way to have the cams dead even when I aligned to the flywheel mark I-I like it shows in the manual. It was either one is dead even with the case and the other is a touch too up or down, I opted with both a touch down. However when I set the flywheel to "I" like the guy said in the post, I was able to move the exhaust cam back one tooth and they both ended up being pretty even with the case. And it starts up much better now. But im concerned now that you mention a vavle hitting the piston. Even though ive shimmed the valves on 4 bikes now
  13. How come it wouldnt start before and now it starts?
  14. Funny thing is that gobbely gook made the bike start fine with the kicker. Not the first time I've come across a mistake in a factory service manual, it shows to line it up with the H. Now on to figure out how to make this lemon start with electric start. Will there be anything useful in the manual for that one?