Jump to content

idratherberiding

Members
  • Content Count

    269
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About idratherberiding

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

741 profile views
  1. Mines a 2012. I know another guy with the same bike same year. He's over 350 hours and gets a leak down test every year at a dealership. Still going strong stock everything
  2. Someone told me once the valves change by 0.1mm it's time to do a valve job. Mine has changed by 0.05mm in 290 hours. I'll probably keeping running it past 0.1mm though. Depending on what the fate of my thumper is. Sell while it's still running mint and buy a newer model? Or rebuild the whole thing and enjoy another 300+ hours of flawless ride time. That is the question
  3. If you Google "wee beasty ktm forum" there's a guy who made a thread with step by step instructions on how to do everything including valve shimming on a 2012 exc 350. Pictures and everything. It may not be exactly the same for other years but it will be very close. I used his thread to do a desmog and first valve shimming on my bike.
  4. idratherberiding

    SHARPENING ICE STUDS

    Thanks for the tip. I ground a 30 degree angle on the opposite side of rotation and it gave me a lot of bite for the first half of the day. Then it wore down again but I think that's the nature of the tapcons. I'm betting a new set will only give you 5-6 good rides on ice before they're toast I had to press really hard with the angle grinder to make it go fast. A dremel would not be enough power and would take hours
  5. Works for me. I'd much rather have to replace a shim than cut new seats in the head. Thanks for the info!
  6. I wasn't trying to insult you max. Do the valve check after 2 rides. And get those PC Racing filter skins if you ride anywhere there is dust. I'm telling you. And don't listen to the manual for oil changes. I don't care if it's maxims or royal purple or liquid gold... don't go the full 15 hours. I did that on my ktm 250 once with full synthetic and there were shavings galore on the plug.
  7. The 500 makes all of its power right off throttle. You're constantly short shifting when you ride. The 350 you have to wring it out. They're both amazing bikes. One day I'll buy the current model year of both
  8. Interesting, I'll keep an eye on that. It's due for a check now Where did you get the parts that cheap?
  9. The 500 is kind of a different animal. Sohc and doesn't rev nearly as high as a 350. Bulletproof engine though. It will probably be my next bike
  10. Yeah you're right, what I meant was the valve seat losing material over time. The journals look really good, I never considered checking out the fingers but I'd rather those go before the valve seats. That's expensive work to get the head machined
  11. In my original posts I said check it in the first 30 hours, then every 50 after that. I said I checked mine around 75 hrs and the intakes were 0.03mm tight. I shimmed them back to middle of tolerances and have been checking them every 50 or so hours. I had to adjust them again but this time the gap was larger, rather than tight. So i assumed that was carbon buildup. I estimate the valves have stretched 0.03-0.5mm in 280 hours. My intent was to stress the importance of frequent oil changes and keeping the air filter spotless and How long these engines can go if you are vigilant
  12. Ok, I concede. You are right
  13. But I do agree with the 10k bike part. Personally I probably would be checking them after two rides
  14. If he's asking what oil to run and when to check valves, he's obviously unsure of himself and not mechanically inclined. A vavle check is an easy job to someone who knows what they're doing, not so much for a newbie. Did I mention 280 hrs on original everything still starts first kick and pulls like when I bought it?
  15. You get about 3 valve checks per valve cover gasket. Would be a shame to waste an hour and 20 bucks to check it at 1.5 hrs when you'll need to do it again at 15-30. But it's your time and money. The most important thing is understanding what wears out an engine. Dirt and improper lubrication. Stick with good oil... bel ray, motul, motorex, whatever. Change it sooner than the manual states and you'll be running strong for years. And keep that air filter mint.
×