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About Ride_Flip_Repeat

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  1. I tried to recommend this to my buddy but his guy at the shop said it will add tension on the clutch pull and lose the x’s light clutch pull quality...I honestly like the idea. Didn’t realize until now that is what makes the clutch pull different on my 250 vs the 250x. It’s weird when pulling the clutch with my bike in the shop it feels tough to do it with one finger but on the trails it’s nothing!
  2. My buddy said the guy at the shop said that would put too much pressure on the clutch. I’m pissy my friend always listens to the guy at the shop and not me because I have learned pretty much 95% of what I know from the people on here and he is the one with the bike failing and mine isn’t.
  3. So you’re saying to buy 3 yz250 springs and switch them out with 3 of the yz250x springs? Not sure I think he is using the dribble hole. I just measure 750 in a ratio right and run it.
  4. Buddy of mine and I were riding some awesome trails here in Maine yesterday in about 80 degree weather. Anyway we had been riding a solid 2 hours and we went into this sand pit where him and I equally rode for about 15 mins in. He definitely is a heavy clutch rider but was just doing the regular stuff few donuts, fast sprints across the sand and a few burms. After we were leaving the pit my friends and I thought he accidentally shifted to neutral because all of a sudden the wheels stopped turning. Once we pushed it to the side he had some boiling over and the clutch cover was piping hot and in every gear the bike rolled freely. Now I hammer on my 2011 yz250 that I rebuilt that now has 13 hours on it and his has about the same and I didnt skip a beat. He was told by a guy at a shop to run Honda trans 80wt which I use to run in my 05 yz125 but I run Yamalube 10w-40 only now in my 250. Back to the bike I had to end up driving back to my truck and picking him up. While I was headed back about 30 mins his bike cooled enough and it began to work again. We checked his clutch adjustment and it felt fine and he has stock levers on. Now today he said the oil looked fine after only about 4 hours on it, no metal on the bolt and the plates looked fine. He now is gonna run Yamalube. I just wanted to get your thoughts on this guys and was it the oil or a result of too much clutching and a combination of riding in sand, tons of spins etc? The trails we ride are as super technical as they get rocks, roots, hills etc. I was just surprised with a new bike like that how did that happen when I have had so many Yamaha’s with many more hours on the clutches and I use to clutch like a ton and never had this issue. Thanks.
  5. Just literally thought of this today! I am taking the lever off so there are no questions! Thanks!
  6. Yes what I was referring too not many people know about it.
  7. It has to be air because there is not too much else you could do wrong with installing the major components of a two-stroke (please take this with a grain of salt) where unless you pound or force something that shouldn't be it's just the nature of the beast when bikes are used and not factory sealed.
  8. I know when I rebuilt my 2011 I definitely had some learning lessons and eye openers. It sounds like you installed everything correctly crank/piston wise but there should a few things to consider that helped me out after initial break in. First you want to ask did you install the crank using the correct tools and if so did you install the crank seals before or after mating the cases? I had installed the seals first and when mating the cases the spring inside the clutch side seal got pushed out by the crank arm and destroyed it. I now know to install crank seals after the cases are mated (did yours possibly get damaged or distorted which will create a leak?) I was also diligent about having as close to equal clearance on both sides of the crank. Next I had learned that I should have sent my piston in along with my cylinder that was getting replated because they fit the before to it...well I’ve been running a B piston in an A cylinder and had some weird streaks occur inside the cylinder but no scoring. 10.5 heavy hours and still no issues. Next once the cylinder and piston are installed make sure everything is torqued to spec especially the cylinder and head nuts. Then after the initial break in ride retightening them! Then if you carb has been sitting like mine did for a year or so rebuild that thing! Then my last suggestion is put a thin layer of case sealant on all the mating surfaces of the reed valve. I had major air leaks and dry fouling on the plug after a rebuild on an older bike like mine but after the few adjustments it runs like a boss. I’m not saying you should take your bike apart fully but if you have any question about the crank seals and how they were installed it’s a cheap enough fix with a little bit of time to have piece of mind.
  9. Didn’t read this entire thread but if it makes anyone feel better my buddy dumped his 8 hour 18 yz250x in a mud hole. We took it all apart to the bottom end, flushed it with diesel and suspension cleaner, replace the piston and top end and cleaned everything. Hasn’t skipped a beat and she was stuffed with water and silt.
  10. Hey guys just read through this thread and there seems to be some great ideas. Before I utilize any of them i wanted to bring up the issue with my 15 yz250fx. I had posted a separate thread about the front brake not contracting at all and after 5 minutes of use it will lock up. I bled it and then finally took it all apart and cleared the line completely. Now the issue is that I cannot reverse bleed it at all. I cleaned and inspected everything. Is there a trick to where the calipers have to be? Something is just not allowing the fluid to get up to the front master cylinder. I’ve bled plenty of brakes before specifically Yamaha and am not sure since taking it apart and removing the calipers to clean did something. All my parts are there and when following proper reverse bleeding procedures the fluid will not take from the caliper. Thanks.
  11. Thanks! Polisport got them from rocky mt
  12. That the brakes were locking up. My actions did not create this issue i was trying to resolve it with what I did but still resulted in the same prob.
  13. Sounds like the approach I needed. I’ll give it a shot thanks!
  14. That doesn’t make sense to me because the reservoir was less full and was doing the same thing.
  15. Hey guys working on a buddies 15 yz250fx that has maybe 15-20 hours on it. Well anyway the front brake after a 5 min putt around my neighborhood has over heated like crazy and now with the bike on the stand it cannot spin freely without assisting it. Before the ride I put brand new dot fluid in it after completely bleeding it. The brake without riding functions fine and has no indications of leaking but the fluid was low. With that low of hours and low fluid is that saying there is a possible leak? Not sure how to diagnose it next. Thanks.