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About Yooj

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  1. Yooj

    Honda XR400 New Ray 1/6 Scale Diecast Models

    Nice! I was looking at XR400 models the other day, and the ones I found were monstrous looking... the ones you've found are really nice! Do you have a link? Yooj
  2. Yooj

    Stripped case

    Dude, just take it to a shop to fix... they can fix your clutch while it's there. Be honest with yourself on this one, that it is beyond your capabilities, for now. I like the fact that you give it a go, but sometimes you just need to let a professional take over, and chalk it down to experience. There is a realy big chance here that you're going to screw it up beyond repair with this one, either wrecking the attempted repair, or bodging the repair that the next time you ride that you end up losing your gearbox oil which will result in a lot bigger bill. Bite the bullet and go to a pro Yooj
  3. Yooj

    Rmx250 1995 project

    Go for it. I don't think that the current needle is helping. Yooj
  4. Yooj

    Rmx250 1995 project

    Just remember that lean up top can feel like the bike is running really good! So, before you go smaller on the main, keep needle in pos.2 and do a couple of WOT runs over a 100mtrs or so in a high gear. Don't decelerate through the gears or anything, just kill the engine with the kill switch. That way the plug will show the mains condition. You can then see if you are too rich or lean and whether you can safely go a bit smaller on the main. Yooj
  5. Yooj

    Rmx250 1995 project

    Ah ok... thought you replaced a PWK with another PWK, so doubt the needle will swap. All the rejetting might come to nothing if it is the Chinese PWK that's the problem, so swapping back to the original carb as a test might be a good test. Yooj
  6. Yooj

    Rmx250 1995 project

    The rough running between 1/4 and 3/4 is definitely the needle. If it were me, then I would be looking to get a few different needles to try... incidently, what needle do you have in the original carb that you took off, as it might be worth a try depending upon what it is. Alternatively, when you had it in clip pos.3 how was the low and mid? Because if it was ok, then you could try jetting the main a bit lower as clip 3 would slightly richen the top. Yooj
  7. Yooj

    Rmx250 1995 project

    Ok, sounds like some progress... I reckon that you might need a different needle When clip is in pos.2, how is the off-idle response? What needle is in there now? Things to note... pos.2 gives best top end, i.e best needle to main transition... which needle position gives best off-idle and pilot to mid throttle response. Once you've cracked this, I don't think that you'll have worries about jetting bikes again! Yooj
  8. Yooj

    WOT sputter

    Watching your video, the first thing for me that springs to mind is ignition based on what I'm hearing. I would look to make sure that the coil and stator windings are in spec and that you have good ground connections. Trim your coil to plug-cap wire, and maybe get a new plug-cap to be sure. Could be the CDI, but i think the only test is to swap it out. Has your timing been adjusted at all? Are your reeds in good shape? Yooj
  9. Yooj

    Rmx250 1995 project

    Ok cool... the mid-throttle stutter, could be due to the needle, so take it for a ride at the weekend and see if moving to pos.3 have made any difference. At this stage I would leave the main where it is, and I certainly wouldn't go any leaner yet on the main. You don't want to end up seizing it, so it's better to be safe than sorry. See how it goes with just the needle change and if that seems like it has improved then you can decide if you need to take the needle clip up or down or keep it where it is. After that, then I would go up on the main maybe 1 or two sizes and then do a couple of wide open throttle runs to check the plug colour. The only risk of going too big on the main is fouled plug or two. The risk of going too small of the main is a seizure... so go big and then work your way down until you get a nice plug and crisp running. For all you know at the moment, the main might be lean right now, and if you happen to sort out the mid-stutter while out riding... what are you going to do?.. open her up, and get her on the pipe, and if you do and its lean up top, then there's a real risk of a seize, especially when riding on the road. So, just be a little cautious, and hopefully you should get her singing pretty soon. Yooj
  10. Yooj

    Rmx250 1995 project

    Have you ridden it yet with the needle in position 3? Just re- listened to the vid, and yes the is a very slight bog. Yooj
  11. Yooj

    Rmx250 1995 project

    Ah, sorry, didn't see the video before... had a listen, and I think it sounds pretty good... maybe the slightest hang on the way down, but I doesn't seem to bog off idle and sounds good. Yooj
  12. Yooj

    Rmx250 1995 project

    Ok cool. Yeah, normally there will be something like the screw, and a spring and then maybe a washer and an o-ring or seal and they need to be in the right order and present. The fact that at 3/4 and in it dies kind of plays out ok... but then backing the screw all the way out without any other change seems to me to not be right as it's saying that the pilot is so rich that the air screw has no effect after 3/4 turns out. Could be the carb... have you cleaned it at all before installing? Yooj
  13. Yooj

    Rmx250 1995 project

    Couple of questions: - I don't mean to offend, but are you definitely turning the air screw and not the idle adjuster? - Does the air screw have any form of seal, o-ring, spring set-up... if so, are they in correctly, working order, etc? Yooj
  14. Yooj

    Rmx250 1995 project

    Don't get disheartened... you're at the final hurdle and you'll get there... you've done a great job with the bike, and it'll be a real shame to throw the towel in at this late stage! Couple of things... I have been reading your thread over the last few months, but I cannot remember whether you've done a leak down test? I ask, because you want to make sure that your crank seals are good so as to rule them out during your carb tuning, as a leaking crank seal can make you chase your tail when it comes to carb tuning. As for your plug... plugs really only show the state of your main jet, and to get an accurate reading you would need to perform plug chops after WOT runs. Plugs seldom show the condition of jetting of the pilot or needle jets. I always start my carb tuning with getting the pilot circuit tuned first. The pilot circuit does impact both the needle and main circuits, and if the pilot circuit is not properly tuned, then this could make the rest of the carb tuning problematic. For the pilot circuit, you are aiming to get no bog when you are quickly opening the throttle at idle. The bike must be properly warmed up and running at normal operating temperature. Having the air scew out as far as you have certainly sounds like the pilot is too rich, but it is a matter of trial and error with the aim of getting no off-idle bog and air screw roughly 1.5 turns out. When you open the throttle at idle and let the engine return to idle, does it return back without any hanging revs, or dipped revs, or do the revs hang high or dip low? Yooj
  15. Yooj

    XR 400 Lack of low end power

    Also, what gearing do you have? Yooj