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About Red800rider

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  1. Hopefully a toyhauler is in my near future so I can go overnight and run that fl/ga series
  2. What track is that Scott?
  3. Take Shawn's advice...... Rocky mountain ATV?
  4. Hahaha I thought I was the only one on the stand in the garage......I'm still a rookie but that garage drill really helped me get my head turned when the leg goes out
  5. I'm 50 shooting to get to 199lbs currently @215 from 225. My local track changes layout regularly, there's 2 monster tables that stay. I use those to gauge myself whether to take a particular double. There is no clear cut line drawn on jumping IMO. I've cleared tall doubles with not so much gap, then avoid others with large gap even though my B level buddy says it's less than whatever other table. Then there's the itty bitty double (basically 2 whoops) entering the 180 that I almost overshot. So I gotta pay the bills too and would advise if you are really confident in the turns/obstacles before and after questionable jump is most important. I found that if I really have to hit the brakes to roll it, it's time to think about sending it. I haven't tried a brake tap yet, my throttle control and speed estimates have been good so far..... Doesn't get much more vague than that huh? Just be in complete control on approach. If you are running a checklist in your head it's not time yet.
  6. I've heard many times that racetech's online calculated rates should be used as a ballpark estimate. Not trying to get a brand debate going, I use FC because they are local but what I like is their recommendations come from their database of customers. I was on the low edge of a rate based on my skill level. I eventually said what the heck and went for the next rate up and wished I had sooner cause it made a big difference at the track
  7. I have had one of those Chinese blingy cap vents cost me a moto.....I knew there was plenty of gas in it but the big whoosh of air when I opened it to check gave it away. Oem hose back on now
  8. I have a 5.8 factory connection spring, its yellow same as the 5.6 that came off it. Luckily they have a branch not far from me and they tested my "unknown" springs (front and rear) while I waited.
  9. I'm about same size, rookie MX on 06. Running 5.8 rear and .48 front springs @106 sag in soft stuff and @102 on SX
  10. I saw how old this was but read through it anyway. Ironically I was dealing with the opposite....I bought a woods tuned 06 (didn't have any idea as dirt was new to me). Props to Dogger's thread and the many contributors there. I am MX with rare trail rides and was chasing front wash...started with just way to much dive, brought all 3 springs to local suspension shop to determine rates. Front was 1 step low kept them thinking close enough. Bought rear and set sag. Better but lots of room for improvement. Did first teardown for stack inventory and could not figure out what was going on in bleed stack (double stage comp stack revealed woods tune) thought I laid bleed out or wrote down backwards....reassembled with bleed OEM as only change and wow now I could feel comp clicks. Handling improving still. Had a riding buddy show up with new tires, got to talking ... there's a date code??? Looked at mine, even though tread was good 6 years old!!! Put on his 2 year old front same model dunlop and wow BIG improvement. Last service went ahead and bought 1 size stiffer front springs....thing handles like a dream now. Of course I did top and bottom cart seals, stiffer press springs front and rear couple restacks....all opposite of yours (woods vs MX). Still running OEM clamps Just a share that may help someone chasing handling. So many variables 🤔
  11. If you can't get it fixed....rocky mountain
  12. Agreed with Dan regarding clearing the jump. I'm no expert but I'd say NOT to tune your suspension for shorting jumps but rather tune it for the turns. Get through the turns fast and the jumps just happen
  13. Both those issues were solved for me by going up 1 rate in fork springs.....
  14. I'd have someone video you riding to help understand what suspension is truly doing. Front may feel stiff cause rear is to high=play with sag $0. May feel stiff cause rebound to fast=play with clickers $0. Local suspension guy at track could observe ride and give feedback, may cost few bucks. See DIY sticky at top of crf450x/r forum. Good info for idea of where to start. No guarantee that a top dollar shop will get you valved right on 1st attempt so just jump on in there. Keep lots and lots of notes.
  15. By the "pulls left with bars straight" I have to say the rubber bar mount insulators have done their job after a small drop. As Axeman suggested, bar mounts and clamps. Loosen bar clamp boots. Loosen the nuts that hold those clamps and tap clamps up slightly. There are 4 cone shape rubber inserts on those bolts. Give bars and clamps wiggle to ensure free. Snug top bar clamps to align properly then alternately tighten clamp nuts to spec. Do final adjustment and tightening of bars, don't overtighten these. Get good at this, you will need to do between motos.