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will-burr

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About will-burr

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    California
  1. will-burr

    09 crf 450 or 09 yzf 450

    Hey Captain, First, I would like to apologize for using the word "blew up". I guess I should have said, "stopped running and required cam removal". Second, your "subjective" Yamaha comments didn't bother me. I review TT to look at issues and fixes, not opinion. Yes, I read that you advised him to "wait or buy another brand" but what I thought was "not advised well" was "personally knowing people that have broken the original, got the updated kit, and then continued to break 3 more pins." If the HONDA Update kit is not really a fix, I would not have then said, "Then go for it! You won't regret it " I added you to my buddy list and put away my NEW Waterboard Kit !!! Cheers!!!
  2. will-burr

    09 crf 450 or 09 yzf 450

    Motomike, I was thinking of getting a 09 Honda, but after reading about all the issues I decided not too and keep my YZ250F 1 more year... Are you aware that the "The Captain" you got advise from actually blew his bike up with the decompression pin falling out of his 09 just a few weeks ago? You may want to read the following link... http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775731&highlight= So I guess "The Captain" doesn't care if you are pushing a bike for hours... I wouldn't buy the 09 Honda due to: decompression pin issue. tranny falling out of gear and recall in the UK. flooding problems with the fuel injector. stalling problem unless you set the idle high (1900-2000rpm) I think this proves for the 1 trillionth time that getting advise on the internet is futile. My advise is that you need to read many, many posts on the the issues with each bike before making a decision. Take off the HONDA sunglasses and start reading about all the bikes.
  3. WORD OF ADVICE IF YOU OVER-TORQUED the Oil Line... If you have over-torqued the "Oil Hose Line" that bolts onto the Right-side Case, also check that the "Aluminum Block on the oil line" that the bolt goes through is FLAT on the backside so that it does not leak. I have found that the material on that "Aluminum Block" of the Oil Line is SOFT and crushes down which then will not properly squeeze the o-ring underneath and you will have an oil leak. The fix for a "crushed down Aluminum Block" on this Oil Line is to completely remove the line and carefully flat file and then flat sand that backside surface and thorougly clean and rinse the oil line afterward.
  4. will-burr

    Suspension oils

    Comment on suggested oil: #1 choice is Silkolene Pro RSF #2 choice Torco RSF Would not confuse KTMs WP issues with Silkolene. Shock oil wears out in shear, so a simple service will restore your comp and rebound damping...
  5. will-burr

    YZ-WR Shock Rebuild Procedure

    Agree with ShockDoc's suggestion about protecting parts during "grinding off the peened threaded shaft end". I completely tape and wrap with the blue scott wipe towels around the piston, seal head and shaft to minimize the grinding particles from getting on seals, valving, glide ring, etc...
  6. will-burr

    High Comp. Piston

    Oh yeah another thing is that 92 Pump Gas is fine and I have never heard any pinging... I run Chevron gas.
  7. will-burr

    High Comp. Piston

    I put a 13.5:1 Wiseco in and like it. Stronger torque and power through out. It is not harder to start...
  8. will-burr

    Yamaha, I hate you.

    Important comment to make after reading the responses: 1. If the bolt on the "Block End of the Oil Line" is overtightened, the "Block End of the Oil Line" will crush down and when retightened it will leak. IT IS NOT A FAILED O-RING. The "crushed down Block End of the Oil Line" lifts the oil line off the engine case which relieves the squeeze on the O-ring and this is why it leaks!!! You will need to remove the oil line completely from the engine and oil tank and file the bottom surface of the "Block End of the Oil Line" to be flat. Clean out the oil line after it is flat filed. This will restore the squeeze on that o-ring. If you can't figure it out or file it flat, go to the Dealer and buy a NEW Oil Line. 2. Yes, get a torque wrench and torque it to spec. You'll save a lot of anguish in the future... You'll be suprised how low the torque feels yet is properly tight without messing up parts. You'll love the bike once you get it up and running again!!!
  9. will-burr

    feeler gauge

    Get the narrow angled tappet feeler gages from Motion Pro... The standard bent angled ones you get from the Auto Stores are 1/2" wide and don't fit well on the NARROW INTAKE side of a YZ250F head. The 3 narrow angled Motion Pro gages to get are .002"-.003", .004"-.005" and the .006"-.008". http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/tappet_feeler_gauges/
  10. will-burr

    loudest exhaust for an 06 yz250f

    FMF Q4 Muffler is ear-splitting and has unbelievable power gains. I'd get the Q4 if I had the money...
  11. will-burr

    loudest exhaust for an 06 yz250f

    I agree also, the FMF Q2 or Q4 are freaking loud powerful mufflers!!!
  12. will-burr

    Where do you put your hour meter?

    I made a low-profile Aluminum bracket to fit on top of my upper gas tank bolt (the bracket replaces the large washer under the bolt). I like it so you can see the tach when your on the bike for adjusting the idle...
  13. will-burr

    sometimes I just laugh at myself.

    Beware that the JD Jetting kit worked well on the YZ250Fs up to 2005, but it does not work well on 2006 and newer. You can do a search on this by entering "06 and JD Jetting Kit". I believe the 06 needle was improved so much there was no difference noted when installed. On my 06, I installed a #40 Leak Jet and set the AP timing correctly and the bog was gone during ALL riding conditions. You still can get a slight bog occasionally reving it on the stand, but that does not matter.
  14. No problems on my 06...
  15. will-burr

    05' vs 06'

    '06 Fork is phenominal.
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