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About kawagumby

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  1. Survivor, My advice would be to go conservative on suspension changes so the bike is safe and fun to ride. What I would do is have a shop shorten the suspension travel by one inch, front and back, then only go to a lowering link in addition to get an additional 1/2 to 3/4 inch drop only if necessary. You can also raise the forks about 1/2-3/4 inch in the triples (check to see if everything clears for that first). Lowering links are generally OK if you don't use them to drop too much or to just to make the rear softer (they can be used to soften up the suspension without dropping the suspension at all and for some bikes which can improve the handling for some...like my WR250R). They do change the suspension rising rate which will soften the rear suspension, so you must use less rear spring sag to keep the bike geometry in spec - that is very important, otherwise, the lowering link will offer too much travel affecting handling and potentially causing the rear wheel to hit something at full travel. If the stock spring rate is right on or a bit stiff for you now, you should have no problem with using a link and dropping the seat that small amount. So, playing around with the a link-outfitted shock preload to get just what you need (handling vs height) is important...you don't want to overdo the lowering. Having some shop put a spacer in the Fox shock to drop it one inch shouldn't cost much either. Racetech sells spacers, but I don't know what they will work with off-hand...but spacers are easy to make if a shop has a lathe. Now, regarding lowering the forks, that should be very easy and cheaper for a shop to do than for most bikes. You are only dealing with modifying one cartridge which is extremely easy to remove and to open up. However, even if you just drop the forks about 1" you will need a shorter front spring. Not to worry, Cannon Racecraft will custom make any spring you desire. I have used their paired spring sets and the cost was reasonable at about $140. A single spring such as the Xtrainer uses should be cheaper. There may be some issue re: the Beta xtrainer fork spring end design (check it out on the parts fiche), so you may need to explore that issue more BEFORE having work done and ordering a spring, as there may be some washer or other hardware issue needed to adapt a straight wound spring vs the beta tapered spring setup - which could change replacement spring length or even applicability. If you like the stock fork spring rate you can specify that rate with a 1" shorter spring. If you do opt for the softer shock spring action using a link, and only drop the seat about 1/2" the stock fork spring rate will likely still keep the suspension balanced, but again, you'd need to fiddle with the linked-up shock preload to get the best geometry setup for how you ride. The above should net you about 1.5" riding drop which shouldn't change the handling noticeably, IMO. You'll also need to shorten the kick stand.
  2. Man, I'm really think'n about that 125 RR. I'm not riding my 390 enough, I just can't get enough of riding my smokers! Sooo, I'm kinda thinking about selling the 390. One of my favorite bikes is my KX100, all set up for my size and weight...I can go so many really nasty fun places on it and the suspension works real well doing trials-like stuff on the trails. I bet the 125 will be great on the tight trails I ride too, with more balls, and I can get more aggressive on it on the open stuff where the tiny KX kinda falls on its face. I hope someone on this forum who has one does a ride report for us. Here in CA we're saddled with riding new smokers only 8 months out of the year, but it'd still be worth it. I'm torn, because I can get a 2002 or older YZ125 that I can ride all year, but I'd have to go through everything to make it reliable and work well off-road - and it still wouldn't be as good.
  3. In those intense situations, an e-start can be a blessing. Last tuesday, out on an abandoned, overgrown horrible single track, I got out-of-shape trying to get around a deep root drop-off and lost it. Only walking speed, didn't matter, I fell down onto a small tree trunk with the weight of the bike on me, crushed my left side, broke two ribs, couldn't breathe. I had to ride it out, nobody else around. Kick start only, a KDX200, luckily starts one kick in gear or not. BUT, you know what it's like kicking a bike with broken ribs and fluid filling up in your chest? Not fun. And that horrible trail full of things that causes the bike to deflect and stall every 5 minutes or so while I get weaker and more dehydrated. I would have killed for an e-start. Another example: another very tech trail...on a CRF250X (pig), but it had electric start. Bike slid down off the 8 inch wide trail about 2 feet down...nothing but drop-off below. Bike was too heavy for me to lift up at that angle. But I was able to tilt it up enough to hit the starter and have the rear wheel turning in gear to walk it back up on the trail. Saved my bacon for sure. E-start = good for survival mode Over the years I've owned 8 200 cc bikes and no way could I start any of them by hand - not even close - but like others have said here the option for a kicker or vice versa would be great.
  4. Make sure the gas tank vent is clear. If...the vent line is pinched tight somewhere or the gas cap check-valve is stuck, no fuel will flow from the tank after a time while riding. It is possible that a partial vacuum could still exist in the tank over night. I'd check that first by simply removing the gas cap and see if it starts. If that's not it, as surfer-dude said, look to the electrical connections first...esp. fuel injection related and ignition system. If nothing is found, at this point you can just take the bike in and have them trouble-shoot it - or if you're like me and a curious guy... I'd pull tank, then the plug and check for spark. (having the tank off will give you a better view of the running systems also). If there's spark, I'd squirt a little bit of gasoline into the cylinder, put the plug back in and see if it runs, farts or pops. If it does that, you've got a fuel delivery issue..a fuel pump may have failed or some bit of manufacturing by-product may be plugging something. If spark and no runfartpop, could likely be a mechanical issue. If no spark, likely an ignition component failure -
  5. If it is an Xtrainer, the OEM speedo on mine broke at the right mounting tab after about 30 hrs. The plastic just failed on its own at the base of the mounting tab. So, the plastic is marginal. I used shoe glue to fix it...no problemo. (shoe glue is the stuff of dreams on dirt bikes, IMO, I've even used it to successfully repair rubber exhaust isolation brackets where the rubber separates from the steel, seat rips, etc... It just does it all.) Because it stays flexible, it seems to withstand vibration better than epoxy. I would venture to say that a trail tech striker would work fine too, all you'd need is to wire the oil warning wire to an additional light. Trail tech makes an indicator light "dashboard" mount that is designed for turn-signals, high beam, etc., but could also be used for that oil light. You could get a trail tech striker with that setup for about $130. (walmart sells the striker for about $80 and the light-display mounts go for about $50). You may be able to find better deals than that? I used that setup on a Suzuki RMX250 that was street legal and it was very sturdy.
  6. I suggest not doing anything to the shock if it is not operating properly. Take it in to the dealer and let them deal with it - things can get out of hand quickly and they might not honor the warranty if the shock gets buggered up trying to fix the adjuster. I've had an adjuster that was seized simply due to out of tolerance parts from the factory (an RMX250). Even if it's out of warranty most dealers would fix an item that never worked properly without cost for a current year bike.
  7. I was having a lot of trouble with the pilot also. I eventually went to a 40, with mild temperatures and about 1500 elevation, but still had detonation on deceleration and bucking when at low throttle while cruising on smoother trails. Turns out, the gas tank vent line was pinched from the factory near the steering head, so on the rough trails which I mostly ride, the tank could get enough air back through the aerated carb (bouncing float), but when on a longer smooth section of trail, the float valve would shut that off causing an increasingly lean mixture. Blew my mind for a while...until it finally completely quit on the trail once and I checked the vent line. The reason I bring this up is that the bike developed this problem over time. Evidently, initially the hose kept its shape enough to pass air through for more than a year, however, the low and off-throttle knocking became more of an issue as the hose slowly collapsed. I ended up re-routing the hose completely. Other Xtrainers may have the same issue, just something to check out if a similar symptom presents itself.
  8. That sight glass might be sold separately from the case. Other bikes I've owned had that part separate, suzuki, yamaha, etc.
  9. Thanks for the excellent write up! That is very good information.
  10. I bet the Honda has engineered much more durability and weather-tightness into the wiring harness, lights and so on than KTM or Beta (I own a Beta 390 RR-S). Like Yamaha and the WR250R, they may be opting for heavier brake parts, controls and so on, which adds cost and weight.
  11. The CRF450L Dual Sport comes with a two-gallon gas tank. Why are these manufacturers keeping the range so limited for a dual sport? The tank configuration looks fairly complex, I don't know if an aftermarket tank will be available because of that design. It will be interesting to see if other Japanese companies will join in the fun...
  12. Kranny? What vibration? The only time I notice vibration with my Xtrainer is when it is idling, after that no problemo. Hmmm, who was that guy who just had all those 4-stroke problems?? I can't quite remember his name...Crummy, Fanny, some'pn like that.... First, it is a two-stroke, so engine maintenance is minimal. The engine design is simple and it uses a Keihen carb. Beta's are known for durable engines and trannys and this bike seems typical - The kind of maintenance it requires is...tighten spokes, check tire pressure, adjust chain, clean air filter now and then, WD-40 the pipe after mud rides, wipe your lip prints off the seat and tank so your wife will not think you're cheating on her. Check the plug every 500 hrs. If you want peace-of-mind pull the oil-injection and run premix like I do. This bike reminds me of my KDX's...I've ridden those bikes for about 30 years with never a problem, never stranded. The Xtrainer is likely the same, I've had mine for about a year and a half. The forks are the easiest to work on of any bike I've owned, and the shock is full rebuildable. Nissan brakes...solid. I run ATF type F in the tranny and change it out at about 7 hrs...just like all the other smokers I've owned...never had a tranny or clutch failure and I'm an absolute clutch abuser. So, there ya' go. Oh, some guys stick silicon grease in the electrical connectors to help keep moisture out.
  13. Yeah, no argument here... The 390 is very capable and fun. I think our different perspectives between the bikes are probably due to the Xtrainer's springs being right on for my weight @ 150 lbs..the shock valving tends to be more appropriate with the stock springs and a lighter rider. The 390 however, has a softer suspension also, which is great for most riders, including me 99 percent of the time, and it does soak up trail trash exceedingly well, but even with my lighter weight, sometimes faster, aggressive riding will bring out the limitations. I love really tight technical trails and the 390 is heavy for that kind of riding (P=MV), where the Xtrainer is built for it. Both bikes are great, the choice between the two is really a matter of where and how the rider chooses to ride. Both are good fits ergonomically.
  14. I have both a '17 390 and a '17 Xtrainer. The 390 is sad because I ride the Xtrainer more. Both are great bikes; the 390 is a hoot because of the thumper "feel" and the stability that comes with a soft suspension, low cg and more weight. Neither is a high speed machine in stock trim, IMO, as although I am only about 150 lbs without gear, I have blown through the stock 390 suspension coming off some mid-sized jumps at speed with nearly very bad results, ...and stiffening the damping only helps some - the issue is no doubt that even tho' the Sachs suspension is more sophisticated than the Olle, the 390's weight is just harder to handle in some more extreme situations. The Xtrainer only needed a slight front suspension adjustment to handle similar jumps (the K9 tuned for me with just oil height and viscosity changes). On most of the trails I ride the Xtrainer is golden, the 390 is fun but will get you in trouble if you push it...its just a matter of momentum in tight turns on rough ground. The actual difference in weight is about 30 lbs, and I seem to have a need to pick up bikes on a regular bases also...LOL. I don't use my 390 on the road at all, just for trail riding. Both are very, very fun bikes. The only problem I have with the Xtrainer is that I tend to get in trouble sometimes doing things on it that I would never do on another bike...hah. A good example is a steep, loose, downhill-only trail with a huge 3' diameter tree laying across it blocking any riding line...no way to get the front end up and over due to the downhill slope, my Gawd, trying to lift the 390 up and over that tree almost killed me - no exaggeration (ride is now over, old man) and provided the incentive to buy radiator braces (just the weight of the bike on its side while I push it up and over squashed a radiator), but getting the xtrainer over that obstacle was easy in comparison. So what? I dunno. BobinIndy: I also have a WRR. If you plan to use the bike for off-road mostly, the 390 is vastly superior to the WRR - better power, weight distribution, and suspension. However, if you enjoy riding paved backroads with some hiways, with low-to-mid difficulty single track and fireroads, the WRR is more versatile. Why? Because the the 390 is a plated dirt bike and dirt bikes just aren't that comfortable on paved roads. I've revalved the suspension on my WRR so now it gets the job done off-road, but it really shines on backroads and the occasional hiway - smoother, more comfortable, better gas mileage (50+mpg) and it is built to last - everything is heavy-duty compared to the 390, brake rotor thickness, wiring harness, brake reservoir volumes, lighting, sub-frame...etc, it is designed to resist weathering better. Beta's wiring harnesses are mickey-mouse, btw. The difference in weight between the bikes (both fueled) is the '17 390 is 273 lbs +/- vs the WRR's 300 lbs +/-.
  15. Too bad the cable isn't setup for the std clip. First time I worked on the carb I thought the clip was missing...tried to put one in... oops, no go.