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About kawagumby

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  1. kawagumby

    X Trainer 300 Oil change

    It really depends on how you ride. If you use the clutch, slipping a lot in tight terrain you will need to change it more often, if you ride more open territory with mostly using the clutch to shift...then you can go much longer. Just check the oil clarity when you change it and adjust accordingly, but also note how the shifting feels. I need to change the oil about every five hours...otherwise the shifting gets too notchy, but I use the bike for very tight 1st thru 3rd gear work with a lot of clutch action.
  2. kawagumby

    Boano front forks for X Trainer

    I agree completely. At my weight (155 lbs), it was pretty good just changing the oil viscosity and height, the K9 I put in made it more tune-able. They work just as well, maybe even better than the stock 4CS forks that came on my '16 Husky TE250. I have no complaints with their use for any kind of trail riding. PS I never had an issue with deflection...only washing out in turns due to the stock front tire which was immediately fixed.
  3. kawagumby

    300RR massive vibration from footpegs, do you get them?

    My Xtrainer 300 only has noticeable vibes at idle - when compared to either of my YZ125's, or my KDX200 it feels the same while riding - and I use thin-soled Forma Terra boots. I'd say something is up with that bike. I have fixed bad vibrating smokers several times by just tightening the engine mounts bolts - and that vibration was usually at mid to higher rpm's. Back in the day, that was a common problem with open class two-strokes and the softer bolts (that stretched easily) that came with the bikes.
  4. Yep. I installed the gold valves in my WR250R, and they worked well for that bike. But, the MX forks work better, and that's because the WR250R has the smaller 20mm stack vs the YZ and WRF 28mm stacks. The difference:
  5. Either way you're removing material. However, the KYB forks are pretty thick at that lower clamp area and you're only looking at removing a little over one millimeter which reduces the diameter twice that. These forks are from motocross bikes (same tube as the 2002 YZ426 for example) that are designed to endure stresses well beyond what the average joe will put them through. The lower clamping area is the only place that the reduction is needed, which would not significantly weaken the fork, even for MX use, IMO. (I bet the wall thickness would still be equal to or greater than the stock Beta forks). Edit: A couple of disadvantages of boring the lower clamp would be the increased cost of that operation and negating the ability to easily convert back to the stock suspension (you'd have to buy another set of lower triples).
  6. Hi folks, I was sitting in my shop today looking at my Xtrainer and my 46mm-KYB-equipped YZ's (specifically a 2001 YZ125) and noticed that the forks seemed to be about the same diameter....hmmmm. So, I stuck a caliper on the forks where the triples are clamped, and lo and behold, the upper diameters were the same at 54mm. The lower's were 58.4 mm (YZ) and 56 mm (Xtrainer) respectively. So, I sez to myself....hmmm, shaving a mere 1.2 mm from the yz tube at the lower clamp area and you have a bolt-up KYB open-chamber fork that is very tunable with inexpensive parts available just about anywhere. Ok, so what about the axle offset? I measured the axle offset and it was very, very close to the same on both fork designs (just using a tape measure). The horizontal distance between forks on both bikes was so close I couldn't read a difference on my tape measure. So far so good... Then I measured the fork lengths...about an inch difference. So...you'd need to shorten the KYB's between 3/4" to I inch for them to work (I'll get into that later). How about the brakes? Well, the Beta and YZ's both use the same Nissan calipers. it likely would only take swapping the YZ caliper bracket for the Beta bracket...a cheap item from an ebay older yz caliper*. (even if the beta caliper turns out to be different, it would only take getting a YZ caliper to remedy). The vertical distance between the triple clamps is 6 1/4" on the XT, and 7 1/2" on the YZ's. The clamping area on the YZ forks will work with the XT triples, but placement is critical, so shortening the forks 3/4 to 1 inch is critical - you can't just shove them up in the triples with or without bar risers rather than shortening them. What do you need in total to have an extra bolt-on KYB front end? The forks, axle with spacers, front wheel with brake rotor and likely the YZ caliper bracket (due to different rotor diameters). That should be it. You won't need to custom fit axle spacers, the stock YZ's will work. What year YZ's will work? From 1998 to 2003 both the YZ125 and YZ250 used 46mm forks with the current Nissan brake caliper design. And...they also used a top-out bumper (much like the shock bumper) so shortening the forks using the original springs is easy. You delete the bumper and set the preload with washers - a set I shortened 7/8" needed just 2 or 3 washers total to get the correct preload with stock YZ125 springs. BTW, the YZ125's from that era use 40-41 kg fork springs stock. If you need them, aftermarket springs are available almost everywhere for these forks. Rebuild kits are cheap. But...shortening these KYB's is a PITA! The problem is the cartridge thread area is pinned in four places and glued with a compound that is very hard to break loose. So you have to drill out the pins without blowing through the wall, and then heat the thread area while you try to break the threads loose without damaging internal o-rings. For the last shortening I did using '99 yz125 forks, I ended up chucking the cartridge very tightly in a lathe, blocking the chuck so it wouldn't move, the using a pipe wrench to break the bond while heating it with a torch... and it still barely broke loose with all that!!!! So unless you are mechanically inclined that may be something you might want your tuner to do for you. I've not done an XT as described here, but I have done half-dozen or so fork swaps using the YZ forks I described. All have been on KDX200's, all have been revalved for my riding skill level and terrain. One of the pictures below shows my current '94 KDX with shortened, revalved 1999 YZ125 forks. Folks, these are great forks - and I have never yet needed to revalve the internal stacks, only the compression stacks using the 125 forks. So, the front end conversions I've done generally have cost very little. You can get nice fork sets for about $150-200 on ebay. Wheels with axles run about $100-150. Shaving the fork diameter shouldn't cost diddle and the revalve/shortening shouldn't cost too much either. * Note: 2001 yamaha went to a larger diameter brake rotor, so I suspect the caliper bracket changed as a result. As a disclaimer, I've not done this for my XT, so I haven't encountered the snafu's common to such work -as I am satisfied with the forks for what I do, but seeing the prices for the aftermarket fork kits, and the very low cost of this potential conversion (which can be reversed to stock quickly and easily) I thought some of you might be interested in giving it a shot and seeing how it would work out. It looks like a fairly easy conversion to me as you don't have to deal with changing out the triples.
  7. kawagumby

    Beta Factory Demo tour coming

    They're new to this, and probably just going with the most direct routing to start. They likely only recently got the new models in, and the Beta warehouse is in Paso Robles, which is only a bit over two hours drive from the Morgan Hill area. I suspect route/timing sophistication will come with a little trial-and-error and budget adjustments.
  8. kawagumby

    Beta Factory Demo tour coming

    I just got my confirmation and it is going to be Metcalf.
  9. kawagumby

    KIckstarting the 500, or the 430/390, even the 350

    I had an 87 CR500 and a 2002 yamaha WR426 with the compression release lever, never had any issue starting either one or any of the many 400-500 cc open class smokers of the 80's I rode. I could not kickstart my '17 Beta 390. I could barely move the kicker to spin the engine, I'm fairly light at about 150 lbs - the Beta kicker is a bad design, IMO.
  10. kawagumby

    Beta Factory Demo tour coming

  11. kawagumby

    Beta Factory Demo tour coming

    Well, I signed up for the Morgan Hill demo, which is tomorrow, but I still haven't heard back from them and there are no directions or indication as to where the actual event is being held. Weird.
  12. kawagumby

    Beta Factory Demo tour coming

    They show one next week a short drive from my location in CA. Don't know where they plan to have the action, probably a farm area. I'd love to ride the 125 rr so I signed up.
  13. kawagumby

    Beta 125rr?

    LOL, I'll pile on here too... I've had this discussion with a lot of other riders over the years who claim the the new bikes are wildly better than those of the late nineties and 2000's. I beg to disagree. I've owned the latest of KTM's 250cc enduro smokers, and was not impressed. Yes, the new Beta 125rr is a thing of beauty and probably the best woods small bore out there, but to disregard the older YZ125's as not comparable is not completely correct for everyone involved, IMO. The HP is not that different according to some tests, the Beta has more mid and top but not so much at bottom. The old YZ's were not all ported the same...the 2001's have a strong mid-range, more than the '97... different sized carbs, different porting, different head designs, pipes, etc... The 2001 had vastly improved brakes... you can choose any year based on rider's feedback and testing results... so the older suspensions are OC MX...but a revalve fixes that and many people like OC forks for woods stuff, esp as a play bike - and they are very easy to tune and maintain by a do-it-yourselfer. Later YZ's use the SSS forks. 19" tires? not a deal breaker. It all depends on the owner/rider. If that person is experienced as a mechanic, they can retune the bike to be very good at what they want it to be, whether it be an MX'r for woods, 250 or 125... the older bikes can still rock the palace for many people who may not want (for what ever reason) to spend the bucks for a brand new bike. Disclaimer: Just my perspective...one of many that may or may not carry any validity for anyone else....LOL...
  14. kawagumby

    Beta 125rr?

    That wasn't my suggestion at all. I think it is clear that a properly setup 125 (the Beta for example), given a rider that appreciates the attributes of a small bore bike, will do just fine in the woods. Your interpretation is just silly.
  15. kawagumby

    Beta 125rr?

    Well, I'm not going to buy a 125 rr after all. I've gotten my bargain-basement YZ125's dialed in and they just do it for me. I'm very familiar with the KYB OC forks they have as those are the forks I used to upgrade several KDX's I've owned in the past - so the off-road valve stacks are solved already . The spring rates are basically the same as the 125 RR, they weigh about the same, and they use six-speed trannys that seem perfectly spaced for off-road (I gear down from stock 3 teeth on the rear), and the bikes handle flawlessly. I lower them 3/4" which makes them just right for off-road. I have a 97 and a 2001 (pre-2003 is a must for year-round riding where I live in CA). The shock is fantastic. I can go over the roughest trail crap, put my weight right over the rear with full throttle and the front just skims while the bike seems to float (I did go one step lower on the rear spring rate). Wow. This is the best shock action I have ever experienced. Yamaha got it right with these bikes...power is sufficient low, good mid, good run out on top. I can't imagine the 125 RR being that much better to justify the money. It has been a lot of fun rebuilding the bikes from the ground up...mostly undoing the previous owners destructive ways. They aren't as pretty as the Beta tho'....LOL. Anyone who thinks a 125 can't handle woods is wrong. It ain't the bike. 😛