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About Jeremyf1

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  1. Hell of a deal!! Don't think you could even rebuild you old stuff for that cheap. Did the CRF brake setup make a worthwhile difference? I see MotoSport fixed their mistake on the Driven oversized rotor kit. $140 in the cart now. Glad I bought two...
  2. Still confused? Basically what I’m trying to say is the frame is no longer a source of ground, the R/R is the power and ground source now. Only reason ground is connected to coil screw/frame is to complete the primary circuit... I don’t know what Dyna coil you plan to use, but perhaps that’s why we’re not on the same page... and I guess that opens up a third way of burning up the CDI. Wire that wrong or don’t have a complete circuit for the secondary, (sending 50,000 volts through the CDI) will surely smoke it... Only way lighting coils could cause any type of magnetic interference is if they’re sparking away down there. I asked Borut if there would be any advantage to twisting the mag pickup wires (twisted pair) or shielding, (since all my Electromotive EFI systems have shielded crank and cam sensor wires) and he said “Nope, no advantage”... Since his magneto versions of CDIs (magneto producing in excess of 400vac) don’t have issues, there is absolutely nothing to worry about with low voltage lighting coils.... Edit; Any news from RMstator?
  3. The grounds are connected in the exact same way and places as factory. Coil primary completes its’ circuit through main harness ground eyelet. Coil secondary through the old magneto wires. There is no actual ‘ground’ from the lighting coils anymore. That is floating now. Each end of lighting coils connect directly to the 2 yellows at the regulator/rectifier. I didn’t bother mentioning the engine to coil ground as I don’t think it makes much, if any, difference using the engine mounts/frame, or copper wire to ground the secondary. 51Mj of spark energy is going to get to where it wants to go, even if that means jumping a 2” air gap... According to Borut, the majority of RF noise is from the spark plug itself, and I can confirm that. lol I tried using some R4118S-8 plugs, assuming the “R” meant resistor... First thing I noticed was the GPS on my Voyager wasn’t working, bike was running weird, and hot. Long story short, they were in fact not resistor plugs.... R6918B-7 plugs are resistor, so that’s what I’ll be running on both next time I switch them. Heads were cut to take advantage of the tapered ends on these... and I got a BUNCH of them to use up... I chose that location for the CDI for easy access to the programming connector, and also that’s the only location I could find where I don’t have to extend any if the wires from the CDI. Carb wires just reach the carb, and the wires that go to handle bar switches, etc... just reach too. Used hook and loop Velcro strips from the hardware store to mount CDI. Figured if it gets hit somehow that it can tear loose from the frame and not break the CDI housing. Also didn’t want to drill holes in the frame...
  4. Oh, okay. Quite a bit bigger than stock. Should get yourself a DRZ400S shroud for that. Yup, those are the old magneto wires. Figured instead of lobbing them off I’d use to replace the ground I took away. Other end goes to an eyelet/coil screw, along with another eyelet that grounds the main CDI harness to coil too.
  5. Right on!!! Can’t wait to hear what they have to say. The tip I was going to give is probably irrelevant now, and may not apply to aftermarket stators, but it may help others that read this... Baja Designs had a ‘how to’ tech article on floating ground, which was cut both Black/White wires and install a crimp connector. Better way is to cut the harness side B/W wire as close to the eyelet as possible, run a slit down the fiberglass sleeve on the winding wire to expose the solder barrel connector, unsolder, slide a piece of heat shrink over magnet wire, then solder the B/W harness wire into the barrel connector, slide heat shrink over the connection, and reinstall protective sleeve. Looks damn near factory, and no crappy crimp connector!!!! Before; After; I’ve been pretty content with the stock stator output for now, which is another reason this went on the back burner. Adding the capacitors under the tank did wonders for smoothing out the voltage, so now it’s not all relying on my poor little battery to fill in the 0 volt gaps with single phase output. The GTR LED opened up a good 25w of power, and soooo much brighter than the stock 55w bulb. I bought a Opt7 LED first, because of all the good reviews I saw on them. That light sucked. Was fairly bright, but I need light on the ground in front of me, not in the tree tops!!! Has a Lifetime warranty with the GTR from Headlight Revolution too... Edit; I thought I had a pict of the headlight backside on my phone, guess not. Anyhoo, the stock rubber grommet couldn’t be used with the LED. I found a rubber LED grommet on eBay I was able to cut down and use. Worked out perfect for keeping dust out of the housing. I do have pict of the frontside. The GTR light uses 3 small LEDs per side, instead of one big one, and mimics the stock filiment quite well. Another thing I liked was no fan on these, one less part to fail.... Only problem, sold in pairs, so if you do go this route, you might want to find someone interested in buying the extra light or sell it on eBay....
  6. Lol. Gotcha. I do that exact same thing... too often Well damn. I was gonna give a couple tips on the floating ground mod, but what you’re describing sure sounds like a break in a lighting coil... When cool, voltage is able to jump the break/crack, but when it heats up and windings expand, the break in the wire gets too big to arc across. Might want to investigate into this further with some hot and cold ohmmeter readings across the windings... The stock regulator is wired in parallel to your headlight, so if it were to have a break, or go open circuit, it would be blowing bulbs. I guess it could be shorting to ground though.... Checked out the CRF50 stator on RMStators website. They say it’s 83mm. OD. https://www.rmstator.com/en_ww/products/stator-for-honda-crf50f-zr50r-xr50r-z50r-xr70r-31120-gw8-671-1988-2016-rms010-101530 They also show the RMX as 84mm and 14mm thick. https://www.rmstator.com/en_ww/products/stator-for-suzuki-rmx-250-1989-1998-rm01385 Coulda swore my stock lighting coil is 84.5 and 18mm. thick. That’s why I was looking for a 85mm. Can always cut it a tad smaller, if needed. Pretty sure the ID of the flywheel was 86..... I’ll have to double check all this....
  7. Jeremyf1

    Exhaust valve assembly - stubborn screws

    Hand impact Punch set; https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hand-Tools-Chisels-Files-Punches-Punches-Nail-Setters/N-5yc1vZc25qZ12kx/Ntk-tagger/Ntt-Punch%2Bset?NCNI-5&catStyle=ShowProducts&storeSelection=4702,8944,4711,4706,4705 The tops of these screws are actually pretty soft and malleable... Use hammer and punch to drive the high spots from stripping down and continue to tap until the cross pattern closes up a bit, then tap the JIS bit into it to reform the cross pattern. Bit should be a nice tight fit again. When you go to use the impact driver shove down as hard as you can (which will center the cam action) then rotate CCW just a few degrees. No need to turn to the max. It only takes a couple degrees of rotation to loosen the screw...
  8. Ya know what, that 6 pole is a good idea!!! Whole reason I was originally looking at the 12s was I thought the magnet poles were aligned with the circumference. For 3 phase, the magnets to magneto poles ratio must be multipliable or dividable by 3, so 4 magnet X 3 = 12 pole stator, 6 X 3 = 18, etc etc... But if we think of the N and S pole magnets that are 90* apart as one magnet, this just might work!!! Good thinking there. The YZ carb is definitely worth it (you wouldn’t want a pumper carb), but I know what you mean with funds getting thin. Been busting ass at work so I can re-roof the house this year. I’m sure that will be $25-30K... Those circut breakers are pretty cool. I found some manual reset ones on eBay, but these auto reseting ones, so much better.... Have you wired your stator for floating ground yet?
  9. Jeremyf1

    Exhaust valve assembly - stubborn screws

    The small investment in tools will probably be cheaper then paying millenium to do it, and if you ever encounter this in the future, you’ll have the tools to do it... $80 to clean the valves could be better spent on a small ultrasonic cleaner. Mine is large enough to fit cylinders into it and cost under $300. Lots of small US cleaners out there for under $100
  10. If you’re planning on running the YZ PJ/TPS carb, keep an eye out on eBay. There’s a fellow on there that frequently buys brand new YZs and parts them. Got mine for less than $300 with a ebay coupon. Came with cable and new throttle tube assembly. Extra bonus is the YZ throttle tube opens up the slide quicker, so you don’t have to have your wrist in a awkward position to get to WOT like the RMX throttle. Don’t know if you’re planning on using a fuse/relay box, but I sourced mine from cycle terminal. http://www.cycleterminal.com/mp280-fuse-box.html# The relay I found cheaper from Del City https://m.delcity.net/store/ISO-Ultra-Micro-Relay-with-Resistor/p_806552.h_806553 And also found some auto-reset breakers from them that I like a whole lot better than the fuses. https://m.delcity.net/store/Mini-Fuse-Blade!Style-Breakers/p_167860.h_188570
  11. That might be a possibility, but the RM stator is only 58mm diameter, and a 6 pole, 6 magnet design I believe, so 3 phase is out with that. The lighting coil versions sold be Stealy and Electrex are seriously underwound and are only 50w max, dropping to less than 20w at idle. We also don’t need the magneto windings for DC-CDI. Dyna coil should be fine. Just thought I’d mention in case you still had the original coil on there. Another nice thing is his coil is smaller than stock, so more room to get wires past it in the limited space under the tank. You may have to change the delay compensation (compensates the microsecond lag(s) for different mag pickups and coils) from my setup though... Not a big deal to do. If it’s not too late get a programming connector plug too. Costs like $5 and will keep the crud and mud out of the connector.
  12. Jeremyf1

    Exhaust valve assembly - stubborn screws

    I too would suggest trying getting the screw out yourself. I doubt the $80 PV cleaning fee includes extracting stripped screws. TT member ‘Bavarian’ recently had Millenium clean his PVs in his RMX cylinder he had them plate. The photos he posted of the “cleaning” made me cringe. Looks like they stuck them in a blast cabinet and blasted all the hard anodizing off the valves with sand!!! Ouch!!! A lot of times the screws are just stuck from hardened spooge “burnt pre-mix” that has seeped into the threads. Darn spooge is like glue when it’s cold. A bit of heat softens it right up, and the difference in expansion of the aluminum vs the steel screw will help loosen the threads up too.
  13. Jeremyf1

    Exhaust valve assembly - stubborn screws

    Heat is your friend for PV screws. Get the whole cylinder up to a decent temp and hit the area around that screw with a propane torch. Take a hammer and punch and try to knock down the high spots from stripping, then tap the proper sized JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bit in to it and try and reform the cross pattern. Impact driver with lots of downward force, and don’t rotate the cam action to max. Turn just enough so it lifts a bit... laping compound (or anything similar) will help the bite too. Never use standard Philips bit on JIS screws. Philips screws and drivers when they were invented were actually designed to strip....
  14. Lol. Got in a bit of a hurry thumbing that out on my phone. Actually got off work early last night Nice break from the 12hr shifts we usually work.... Should have read what I wrote when I got home, but sounds like you understand what I was trying to say... A mandrel for aligning the two stators is a good idea, but I don’t want to put too much time and effort into something that may just burn itself up. Might have to buy some replacement smoke in case it all leaks out. Lol Seriously though, most all the 3 phase stators I’ve seen have the N-S magnet poles aligned with the circumference, and only 2-1/2 phases are over any one magnet at one time. I think that’s important for good phase alignment. With all 3 phases sitting over a N or S pole, all 3 will be producing a + or - voltage in the same direction. Thinking this is going to make for some screwy phasing. Another thing is when phase A and B are sitting over a N pole magnet and phase C starts over a S pole, the voltage potential might double ??? Trying to visualize this in my head makes my brain hurt. Ha ha!!! But, before I totally give up, I may try wrapping A phase CW, B CCW, and C back to CW, then flip winding rotations for the next A,B,C that are 90* offset. If all else fails, I’ll chop B and C off the stator and see if there’s any advantage with the 4 smaller windings vs. stock 3 windings.... The non-North American RMX250S “street legal” versions got a nice 3 phase stator setup. I looked into this awhile back. Problem with that is the stator is about 5mm larger in diameter, and it’s 18 pole, so it would also need the non-US 6 magnet flywheel to work properly. Would be quite expensive, and I don’t know if the flywheel would even fit the crank. ??? Got your PM. Grabbed my programming laptop from the RV and got it charging it back up. I’ll get that .zee file sent to ya in the next couple days... Something I didn’t mention in this thread is I also bought his high performance coil for both bikes. Might not be a bad idea for you to do the same. Only a couple things that could wipe out the DC-CDI. Over-voltage, or shorted coil. If I remember right it was like $40. Cheap insurance... Its also important to use a resistor plug with this ignition. Resistor plug boot is optional (I’m using 5k ohm on both), but you absolutely must use resistor plugs!!! These put out one hell of a spark and the RF noise will mess with the magnetic pickup signal otherwise...
  15. Right on!!! This will be cool to finally have someone to share and test ignition maps/mods with. I didn’t see your PM last night, but if you want to send me your email via PM I’ll send you the .zee file when I get a chance. I noticed Borut (owner of Zeeltronic) still hasn’t added the PDCIS-MX11T to his products page. If you’d like to see the software first hand, it can be downloaded from his website by copy/paste the following links (starting with http....) ZeelProg 32 bit: http://zeeltronic.com/ZeelProg/setup%20ZeelProg%20PDCIS-MX11T(32bit).exe ZeelProg 64 bit: http://zeeltronic.com/ZeelProg/setup%20ZeelProg%20PDCIS-MX11T(64bit).exe Be sure you have the NET Frameworks 3.5 before downloading. http://www.zeeltronic.com/page/zeelprog.php Software manual I may have to send email. Can’t figure out how to copy and paste the PDF here from my phone... The Yamaha YFZ450 stator kinda went on the back burner for now. Upon closer examination it turns out the magnet poles are not configured N-S around the circumference as I first thought, but rather N-S on the axis. Makes sense now why the stock stator alternates CW CCW CW windings. I’ve also been waiting for the price of these to drop again (which they finally did) back to $33 from $100+ summer time prices. https://www.ebay.com/itm/STATOR-Fits-YAMAHA-YFZ450-YFZ-450-2004-2005-2007-2008-2009-2012-2013/280900679333 The YFZ stator is only 10mm wide. I wanted to buy another so I can remove one of the end plates from each, and stack the two together to get a 18mm width core. The wider core should make more voltage with less windings and hopefully less heat. Want to try and see I can wind for 3 phase similar to the RMX, with the first 3 windings CW, next 3 CCW, so on and so fourth... Have no idea if it will work out or not. Perhaps something you could ask your friend that rewinds motors? I must have deleted the photos from my phone, but the post I created in the tech section has the picts still. There is also the fitment issue. The RMX stator has a different screw centers between the top and bottom screws. Hoping I can center the RMX stator up with the YFZ, and use my transfer punches to get the YFZ stator bolted up to RMX backing plate... I was thinking the same thing on the Power Valves. Finding a good set is next to impossible anymore. Luckily I bought a couple really good sets about 10 years ago. If you were to model up some, I bet there would be quite a few of us that would love to have a new set of main valves. Be sweet to get them hard anodized like OEM too. The PV bores in the cylinder really take a beating. I noticed that’s where most the slop comes from. Thinking of when I send my old cylinder in for re-plating, asking if they can bore and plate the PV bores with nikasil too. Power Valve solenoid will ‘hopefully’ work similar to the ‘00-‘01 RM 250. Trap the blow-by that gets past PVs, and use that pressure to help the weak adjustment spring keep the valves in a closed position, then release that pressure somewhere around 3500-4500RPM to allow the primary valves to open up. If you’ve ever ran your bike with the side PV cover off, you’ll see the valves basically just flop all over the place at low RPMs. Valves don’t have any stability until the secondary springs come into operation... In addition to the banjo fitting, I blocked the PV drain hole with a setscrew and drilled through the thick part of side cover area (where top bolt is) for the trans breather.