Jeremyf1

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About Jeremyf1

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  1. No problem A few months ago the China stators were selling on eBay for $90 (cheaper than used OEM), but don’t see any for that price now. Price probably goes down in the off season ??? Very cool you’re fixing up a RMX. Great bikes. Just last month finished restoring my 96. Just need to find a graphic kit I like, and more time to ride!!! lol
  2. Ah, I see. Picts definitely help. My first thought when you said it didn’t fit inside was RM 250 cases, but looks like someone has swapped the pick-up coil out from a different bike. I recently replaced the pick-up on my 96. New OEM was $40, but you’re also missing the cover, another $7. Not the best photos, (Old ones from my 98) but this is how the pick-up should look and fit.
  3. Some Picts might help. The pick-up coil sits father out on the RMX, VS the RM to accommodate the larger flywheel. If your RMX stator does not fit, you probably have a RM bottom end or cases...
  4. Ha, just read you new post. You already know about the “model year” differences then. The Mitaka basket link I sent should fit your 89 no problem. That’s the basket moto2000 used on his 90....
  5. First off I’d like to say welcome to TT and as an owner of two RMXs I think it’s cool you’re fixing one up!!! Suzuki micro fisch system can be rather confusing, and as parts get superseded over the years, has only gotten worse. Helps a lot if you know how to read them.... A model K denotes a 1989. There is no such thing as a 90-96 model K, and there are not 3 different RMX made for any year RMX. Why the micro fisch has K, L, M listed under any other years other than 89-K, 90-L, or 91-M, years is beyond me... Now, as far as baskets for the RMX goes there were at least 3 different ones between 89-98. Some used 8 frictions, some 9, some had pressure plate keyed to the inner part of hub, some outer, It was my understanding that the 89 & 90 used 8 frictions, 91-92 used 9, then back to 8 again in 93. I started a post a couple years ago on the differences between the the late model RMX basket and 96 and up RM basket. Rmxdan and moto2000 were quite helpful and provided photos and links to other posts you might find helpful. For a aftermarket basket for a 89 looks like your options are pretty limited now. Pro-X, MD Racing, Talon, and Mitaka used to have them, but now all I see is Mitaka. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-RM250-RM-250-1988-1989-1990-1991-1992-Mitaka-Clutch-Basket/302759172610?hash=item467dda5a02:g:r34AAOxyYTRSVXjv Why they list as fitting the 91&92 ??? Don’t know? Seems to me that the basket would be too short for those years. As far as cases and crank goes, the RMX switched the size of the LH crank bearing between 92-93. Do your research before buying cases other than 89 or 90....
  6. Oh, and another thing on the kickstarter. If the bolt has ever been loose (previous owner?) you might find it difficult to remove from the splined shaft. Might need a small gear puller to get it off. The splines will wear sharp edges that stick up if it’s been loose. File those down (if it has them) when you get it off. Be sure to loc-tite the bolt, and when you go to tighten, hold the kicker with one hand (slightly back from where it normally stops) and tighten with the other. Otherwise the slop in the splines will rotate a bit, and loosen up the bolt on your first kick. Should be able to find aftermarket F&R wheel bearing seal kit on eBay too... I remember the rear brake bushing was also ridiculously priced. I’m trying a experimental bearing setup on my 96. Absolutely no slop now. Not sure how well these tiny bearings will hold up in a crash though...
  7. Look up part #’s and check eBay Here’s a spherical shock bearing for $25 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-SUZUKI-RM125-RM250-RMX250-REAR-SHOCK-CUSHION-BEARING-62175-43D00/263745336417?epid=1723568060&hash=item3d68727461:g:MsIAAOSwVuNbGpG-:sc:USPSFirstClass!98110!US!-1&redirect=mobile Looks like the upper shock bearing is same part #. Unfortunately seller only has one, but there is another listing for $29.. I had to replace all the bearings on my 96. Previous owner never greased any of it Scorced almost all of them from eBay. I tried an aftermarket kit for the swingarm bearings (don’t remember which brand ATM) and they were junk... Could have used the inner bearing races as a file!!! Something I noticed with both my bikes is the swingarm thrust bushings (#2 & 9) were bone dry and gritty with dirt. No matter how much grease I pumped in, it leaked from the outside ends and never got to them. My 96 I left the inner seals out (#4) and just kept the dust seals (#12). Now grease seems to be reaching the bushings. Next time I take the swingarm off my 98 I’m going to cut a chunk from the inner #4 seals with knife. Oh, and it’s the pivot point that arm swings out on you want to grease on kickstarter. Have to remove it and take out the #3 screw. Be sure to wrap a rag around it while pulling apart so the spring loaded ball bearings don’t go flying. Have you pulled cylinder and checked your PV yet?
  8. Another slow night at work, so bit of an update... Finally got some time to work on the 96 wiring last weekend. Bike is damn near ready to fire up. Original plan was to try and make this one battery-less, but I’m not sure yet if that’s going to be possible with the stock stator. I used my spare Trail tech R/R from my 98 (since I already had connectors on it) and found the relay circuitry in these sucks the voltage down a lot more than I thought it would. With spark plug out and kicking over by hand I’m momentarily getting just over 8v., but before I can even get the kicker back up, it’s down to below 2v. Once the internal relay times out (2 second minimum) voltage in the caps actually goes back up to just under 4v. I have a Baja Designs R/R on order. Will have to wait till that arrives to see if I can get enough voltage from stator at kick start speeds for the MX11T to power up and create spark in time... I did wire in a plug for battery if needed, and may just run one anyway. Found some el-cheapo ‘Excel’ ni-cad batteries on eBay for $15. I don’t have high hopes of getting enough voltage from the stators lighting coils at kickstart speeds. I am thinking a fix for that, and to fill the void left by removing magneto is a stator with more poles. I found a YFZ stator on eBay that is a 12 pole, and the same 85mm diameter as RMX stator. Might make my first attempt at rewinding a stator, but wind it for 3 phase instead of single. Thinking with 3 phase I might have a bit of a ‘emergency back-up’, should one winding fail by pulling my headlight relay and powering just the CDI with the remaining single phase... Been having a hard time though finding any info on how many wraps to start with for a 4 magnet 12 pole 3 phase configuration... Anyone??? The stock RMX stator is wound differently than what I thought, and has me scratching my head.... With 4 magnets 90* apart and 3 stator poles 90 apart, I thought all would be wound in same direction since the N or S end of the magnets are all reaching or leaving the stator poles at the same time, but not so.... Weird . I checked and magnets are configured N-S, N-S. Not N-S, S-N... Haven’t swapped to the YZ TPS/PJ carb yet. I have one of the 45* RAD valves currently installed and wanted to give that a try first with the screw top PWK. Want to see if I can use the earlier/longer Mikuni carbed intake boot instead of machining the YZ carb for spacer. Boot is on backorder... Also, want to see if I can’t use Boyesens new 3 stage RAD valve reeds. They told me that they don’t make them for the old RAD valves, but the new RAD valve I just got for my 06 RM 250 looks like the exact same size reeds, and screw spacing. We’ll see... I did discover a problem with my 98. One of my connectors I used to connect CDI to the rest of harness was a metri-pack 150. Bad idea!!! While I was double checking which wires I had going to each terminal (so CDIs could be swapped between bikes if needed) and installing the new caps under the tank I disconnected the metri-pack. Installed caps and put everything back together and.... no power. WTF? Thought maybe I blew fuse somehow? Nope, discovered the metri-pack had bad terminal to terminal connection, so I omitted that connector from the 96 and will have to do the same to my 98... Glad it happened here at home rather than miles out in the trail... And a bit of a off topic FYI... If anyone is looking to go with the Pro-Circuit exhaust and spark arrestor on their RMX, the PC spark arrestor doesn’t fit worth a crap. Hits frame, and still needs to go forward and up more to get mount bolts in!!! Such a shame!!! They do such a nice smooth job stamping the pipes out, but even that had to be tweaked on. Pipe was hitting frame by the shock mount, and it fits so crooked in the cylinder I’m not sure if the o-ring is going to seal.... Getting anxious to get the ol’ girl going. Went with re-sprung (.40) DRZ400 forks, BRP top clamp, O/S Driven rotor, Galfer SS lines, and new Brembo master. Front brake is flipping amazing. Gonna have to get some hand guards so brushing by a twig on the trail doesn’t lock my front brakes up!!!
  9. No problem This is the compression tester I have. https://www.sears.com/craftsman-compression-test-kit-used-for-automotive-motorcycle/p-00947089000P Got it in store for 1/2 off. Works great. And yes, your right about using correct length adapter, and it needs to have the one way valve in adapter so hose volume doesn’t affect reading. A couple other things you should check or replace soon are your reeds and crank seals. Both of those will affect jetting if worn or leaking. Reading some of the new posts here I see a few guys have had problems with the stator screws coming loose and damaging $200 flywheel. Might want to check yours and blue loc-tite those too. You’ll need a 27mm left hand thread flywheel puller, and something to hold flywheel so you can remove and re-torque the nut. (I just use huge crescent wrench on flat parts of FW hub) If they don’t budge with regular #3 JIS driver your probably safe, but when you go to do crank seals, stator will need to be removed. Might need to buy yourself impact driver for later on to get them out.... I’ve replaced all the PITA JIS screws on both my RMXs with stainless Allen bolts. Stock PJ carbs are not the best. My 98 ran very rich @ 1/8-1/4 throttle. After a couple years the wear on needle jet got so bad that I’d foul plugs in tight single track. I didn’t bother re-jeting the PJ, or swapping to leaner needle (what it needed) Replaced it with a new ‘sudco’ PWK A/S instead. Much better carb...
  10. Lol. Don’t blame ya. Damn hard to resist the urge to go ride. They are fun ol’ bikes Looking good I like to replace the secondary PV springs (#10 in diagram) every, or every other top end. These kinda wear on one side. When they do, they compress crooked and wear hard against the guide holes they ride in. Other than that, not much else I can think of... Cylinder is nicasil plated (or should be). Not bore able unless someone has sleeved it. Don’t hone nicasil. Just scrub good following the crosshatch pattern with new scotch brite pads and either a strong degreaser, or lightweight oil to get the glazing off and you’re good to go... Stock cast pistons seem to be fine. I always replace with a Wiseco though. Pistons are not something you really want to go cheap on... Don’t forget to replace wrist pin bearing while you’re in there. While waiting for parts it would be a good time to grease every thing that can’t be hit with grease gun. Upper and lower shock ends, steering stem bearings, etc.. Kickstart, rear brake lever, and shock bearings really wear fast when dry...
  11. Hello, Wow, looks like you had some pretty bad blow-by going on there. You got your money out of that top end, for sure. I recommend doing top ends more frequently in the future. I don’t see the cracking you mentioned, but do see a lot of burned on carbon on cylinder walls that’s so thick, it has began flaking off. The ‘glazing’ needs to be scrubbed off as best as possible for new rings to seal, and get lubricated properly. Scotch brite pads with a strong degreaser, or even a lightweight oil, such as ATF works good. Rings need the direct metal to metal contact to ‘break-in’, and what is left of the crosshatch pattern from honing needs to be scrubbed and cleaned as best as possible so oil can be retained in the scratches left by hone. If you know someone with a ultrasonic cleaner, or if it’s in your budget, these work awesome for cleaning cylinders. Really do a good job of cleaning out the carbon buildup in crosshatch. I finally bought one a couple years ago, so glad I did!!! The new wrist pin bearing may have seemed loose due to greater clearance between the bearings and cage itself. You need to slide the new wristpin in to get a accurate assessment. Hopefully you installed the wristpin circlips with the open end facing up or down. If openings are on the sides, clip can bounce itself out from the rapid acceleration/deceleration of piston at high RPM... One thing I see wrong is your head gasket is installed upside down. This may have contributed to the glazing on the cylinder walls, and the hot spot you see on your head by the coolant “short-circuiting” it’s way through cylinder and head. The 3 small holes in front is correct, but gasket needs to be flipped over left to right, so the small holes are located under thermostat. Water will take the path of least resistance, which is through the large openings and straight to thermostat with gasket installed like that... You might also consider a 2 stroke oil with higher flash point, but it maybe okay once blow-by is reduced and coolant is passing through cylinder properly and absorbing heat as it should. Coolant appears to be having a reaction with head gasket (rust). Be sure to replace with new coolant. If you reused your head gasket temporary, beware that it could be leaking coolant into your cylinder. If you must ride, I would relieve pressure in cooling system after shutdown by carefully removing radiator cap. Just be careful not to burn yourself!!! I would also try to clean the head gasket surfaces a bit better. I use razor blade to get the thick crap off (being careful not to gouge surface), then follow-up with scotch brite pad. You could also use wet-dry sandpaper with water on a plate of glass for the head. This will help flatten out the surface in case of any warpage.. I believe standard Power Valve setting is one full turn of pre-load, but some guys like less... Found this last night on ADV rider about your pipe options. Middle of page 6, 96-98 RM 250 FMF pipe on 98 RMX250S. He does not have the oil injection, so don’t know if that will be problem... http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/aussie-rmx250-adv-riders-sign-in-here-please.710468/page-6
  12. Again, 93-98 North American models used a PJ carb. His is clearly not a PJ.
  13. RMX in the US came with Mikuni, or from 93-on Keihin PJ carbs. Jetting will be completely different. Theres not really a ‘one size fits all’ jetting guide. Most of us here switch our PJ carbs for PWK air strikers. Your carb is standard PWK (non-air striker. Before doing any jetting I’d suggest making sure engine is in perfect mechanical condition (new piston, rings, reeds, and crank seals) and also if your still planning on changing to aftermarket market pipe, or any other mods (RAD valve), do those changes first. Best advice I can give is write down which jets, needle, and throttle slide are currently installed, google jetting guides, and by ‘seat of the pants’/spark plug readings, decide where you would like to make changes...
  14. Hi Madmax, Yes, I see the problem. The gaskets you purchased off eBay look to fit the smaller bolt pattern non-thermostat heads only. Suzuki is usually pretty good about changing part #’s on any little change. These also appear by the label to be old inventory. Possibly even copy’s since package is stapled back together.... I do have a $15 no-name gasket kit here that has same MLS gasket. I don’t know about one gasket being better than the other. Both MLS and composite will work just fine. In some cases, such as warped sealing surfaces, composite will seal better. Only reason I prefer MLS is easier to clean old gasket from surfaces.... I wanted to mention yesterday that since your combustion chamber is so different than our US models, there may be a difference in volume of chamber also. A wise thing to do at this point would be get an accurate compression reading. To do so you need a gauge with full length spark plug threads, and the one-way (Schrader valve) in the bottom of thread adapter like this one. Important to have valve at bottom of adapter, otherwise the additional volume of hose will lower your reading. Also wise to have fresh top end (piston/rings), otherwise compression losses will lower reading too.. ((Edit; To keep leakage past rings at a minimum and lowering your compression reading numbers, put a few drops of premix oil down spark plug hole prior. You could also try doing a before and after reading. Try first without oil, then see how much difference compression number is with oil. If it’s a big difference, time for some new rings.....)) I know you changed gasket for more power, but you can definitely go too far/high and actually hurt power and reliability. Increasing compression on 2t typically increases low-mid RPM power. Not so much at high RPM. I remember you saying you run in sand often? This puts a high load on engine. Also high octane fuel may be required for the higher compression. Don’t know if that will be a issue for you... For sand or extended high RPM use I would try and keep compression somewhat conservative. 180-200psi. (or equivalent in Kpa/bar), if high octane fuel not a problem. Also wanted to mention on squish clearance. A easy way to check that you have enough clearance is to clean cylinder and head surfaces throughly, than set head on cylinder without gasket or bolting together. You then rotate engine by hand with flywheel back and forth TDC several times to see if piston contacts and ‘lifts’ head off cylinder. As long as there is no contact, you’ll know that you will have at least the gasket thickness that you’re using of clearance... I wouldn’t imagine Suzuki would make the MLS gaskets with the oblong holes to fit both bolt patterns if there was clearance issue, but.... It’s a simple check. Why chance it? Modifiying your new gaskets will not be easy. Using drill and making holes bigger will most likely damage them. I would recommend clamping old gasket to new, and using a carbide rotary file in high speed tool such as a ‘Dremel tool’ to match bolt holes. Good price, but lots of trouble to get to fit. Since it is weekend, you may be able to contact seller and cancel order???
  15. Did you measure the squish clearance with your new gasket? From the writing on it, it looks to be 1.5mm I mentioned before your combustion chamber may be different than what we have in US. You need to measure first, or you may risk piston contacting head. Should be no less than 1mm. clearance. I assume your asking if 89RM gasket will fit without modifying bolt holes? Looks to me like no. 89 RM 250 gasket. Optional RMX Optional sitting on top of 89 gasket. I also prefer the optional MLS gaskets. Composite is such a mess to remove...