Jeremyf1

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About Jeremyf1

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  1. Hopefully you’ll open her up and find nothing rattled loose yet. I know opening up the top end on a bike you JUST got is probably not high on your list of things to do. lol. You should be able to get a decent look at your piston by looking up the exhaust port with pipe off. If it looks really good you could just get away with new rings, and new cir-clips if you remove piston to drill the bridge lube holes. Heat is definitely your friend for getting the gummed up screws out on these if they are still tight.
  2. Couple more tidbits of info. If you don’t have a propane torch, get one. The setscrew that holds the “arm” on PV shaft IS loc-tited from the factory. I cracked it on my 98 before knowing this. Heat it up good till you begin to get some smoke off the arm from the oil residue, and it will come right off. You won’t be able to get a driver on the lower guide retaining screws till the shaft has been removed. Heat also helps for getting the castle nuts off the secondary valves. Oil gets in the threads and gives a false sense that they’re tight, when really they’re just stuck in place with hardened sticky goo. Also keep in mind that the Allen bolts that goes through the secondary PVs is threaded into the valve itself, then castle nut is tightened over that. Not a bad idea to buy a new rod clip (#38) These are made of nylon and get brittle with age.
  3. There’s not much room to get a screwdriver on those top PV cover screws, which reminds me. Be sure to use JIS (Japanese industrial standard) drivers on the screws. Regular philips has a tendency to screw up the tops. Even if there’re not loose yet I’d still remove them all, Thoroughly clean threads, and loc-tite them all anyway. Regular blue screw strength is fine for the screws, but the PV nuts use a high temp-high strength threadlocker. I found the backside of a old sawzall blade in a vice works great for holding the round castle nuts. You could pull the entire cylinder, leaving the head on to save yourself on buying a head gasket. Another thing i just thought of is the OEM pistons do not have the exhaust bridge lubricating holes. Even if you don’t end up replacing piston, I do recommend to go ahead and drill the lube holes in piston skirt. Rings and cylinder will last much longer. Edit; I actually don’t know the PSI for stock engine. Guessing I’d say 160 with stock head gasket and around 180 with optional gasket. Both mine have modified heads and much higher compression. I do know that 245 is a bit too much. Ha ha. Mine are around 215-225 now.
  4. No problem The 95’s were the last year for the Inverted forks. All the kinks hadn’t been worked out, so Suzuki went back to the conventionals in 96. I know there are/were radiator guards available. Not sure who made them though. Both my RMXs’ are hopped up, so I need as much airflow through the radiators as possible to keep them cool. The Power Valves inspection is something you’ll want to do right away. It’s one of those “spend a little now, or a LOT later” situations. Mainly it’s the retaining screws and secondary PV nuts that come loose. My 98 when I bought in ‘00 with 20 hrs. and my 96 both had the PV nuts loose and were grinding away on the rings. The 96 was a bit worse. That one had ALL the screws loose, which allowed the secondary PV springs to migrate to the trans and get ground up by the gears. This is is what you don’t want to see. lol A little loc-tite goes a long way.... PS. There are aftermarket Chinese radiators on eBay for about $140. OEM rads are unavailable. If yours are mint, you might want to go with the china rads and keep your OEM off to the side looking new.
  5. lol. I almost bought that bike the first time I saw it on CL. Welcome to TT. Cool to see you on here!!! Good bikes. I’ve got two. First thing you should do is a immediate top end inspection. These bikes are notorious for Power valve problems. Good idea to replace piston and rings while your in there and get the optional 1.2 head gasket. Don’t waste your money on a Clymer. There’s a OEM Service manual for 96 here; https://mega.nz/#!3FkTzRDS!EFqE9tzdU9BjByRn0ymw3605UvQGoeLg6Xj4chXIH4Y Only thing that changed from 96-98 was seat cover and shroud color. The Ricochet skid plates are pretty nice. Requires the factory case guard to be removed. Installing one on my 96. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Ricochet-Skid-Plate-Suzuki-RMX250/221981906338?varId=520858755354&_mwBanner=1
  6. Something with your ring doesn’t look quite right to me. What’s going on here? I also noticed your piston looks shoved against the exhaust side in the first few photos. Is there any movement front to back? Wondering if this isn’t the end gap I’m seeing here, and ring was somehow installed over the top of end gap locating pin ???
  7. The volume of the pipe. (Or lack of, I should say) The reduced volume makes for less short-circuiting of the intake charge, and less raw fuel ends up exiting the exhaust. Good from a emissions point of view, or for de-tuning, (another reason they didn’t just use the RM pipe) but bad for power as there is more dilution going on with the exhaust and A/F mixture.
  8. Looking good. If you can find yourself a aftermarket pipe (expansion chamber) the combination of pipe and your new silencer will give you a nice boost in power. Stock RMX pipes were designed to be quiet and to minimize emissions....
  9. Hi,

    I,m getting ready to order from Zeeltronic. I have a 93' RMX250 with a Keihin basic A.S. carb. Need some advice on what to order. Would rather not bother with programming if I can get (You mentioned this somewhere) it pre-programmed. What advice to proceed?

    Thanks,

    ventabular

    1. Jeremyf1

      Jeremyf1

      PM sent. 

  10. Thanks, It’s really noticeable from 1/2 to full throttle. Prior to port work and RAD valve, not much difference between half and full.... The 24B is for 94-95 RM 250 24XA is for 93?-98 RMX The valves themselves are identical. Only difference is 24B has shorter 1st stage reeds. Boyesen makes quality stuff. The Super stock reeds will be fine for the stock reedcage. You wouldn’t want the 2.0mm gaskets I have. The thinner gasket is what your after. Cometic gaskets should be fine as far as quality goes. Just a FYI. The Wiseco “complete” top end piston kit I had came with a 1.5mm gasket. Another option is a 89-90 RM 250 head gasket (1.0mm) I source a lot of my parts off eBay... I’ll be darned. lol. Looked aftermarket. Ours are made of stamped steel and weigh a ton.... Looking at photos on the internet, the 96 RM 250 aftermarket pipes sure looks close to yours. Only question would be if it will clear the pre-mix pump cover right below it...???
  11. I actually did the welding and machining. Good plan. Looking at the photos in your other post, the intake boot looks a lot like my 1998. My guess is a 24B or 24XA Yup, that’s the basics. On mine the cylinder skirt and piston blocked a lot of air flow. Also has some really sharp angles that don’t help flow either. Here’s some before and after Picts of my cases. The transfer and boost ports in the cylinder are actually quite adequate. Main thing was smoothing out the entrances and opening it up around piston skirt so it can breathe... Kinda looks like you do have a aftermarket silencer. I can only guess on what pipes will fit your RMX. Since it’s low slung, I’d guess somewhere between 96-00 RM 250 ??? Hopefully someone else can help you out there.... OEM (1.7mm) gasket for USA RMX is 11141-29E10 Optional (1.2) is 11141-05D20 Somewhere around my shop I have some 2.0mm head gaskets which I believe are 97-98 non-USA RMX. I’ll have to see if I can find them. I remember they were identical other than thickness. The stoppers don’t wear. Unless there is damage to reed assy. sealing area, reeds should be all you need. Be sure to clean the screw threads well, and use blue loc-tite on them. Nope, it’s the one on the right. The polishing makes it hard to see. We’ll just have to see what your chamber looks like when you take it off.. Zig’s a good guy and always offers good advice. Post lots of Picts and we all can help ya out where we can. No problem!!!
  12. Here in the US our RMXs’ didn’t evolve like the non-US RMXs’. My 1998 RMX engine is based off the 89-92 RM engine. No premix auto-oiling, so I’m unfamiliar with what you have, or how reliable it is. The couple bikes I've had with auto oilers I removed and premixed the oil with fuel. Unless you forget and dump straight fuel in, there’s no doubt that the engine is getting lubricant and one less thing that can go wrong... I have tried V-Force reeds in my RMX and was not happy with them. Bought and returned 3 sets that all had manufacturing flaws (warpage) that caused reeds not to seal. Went back to the Boyesen RAD valve instead. Power gains were minimal at first until I did port work in the cases. That’s where my RMX was “choked up”. Best power gains I’ve gotten from my RMX are aftermarket pipe/spark arrestor, aftermarket ignition, the 1.2mm. “optional head gasket”, and modifying my cylinder head for additional compression with a functional squish band welded in. Our RMXs have poorly shaped cylinder heads. I believe your head might have a actual squish band ??? Probably just needs to have clearance modified for optimal squish (1.0-1.2mm.) A new piston and top/bottom end inspection is always a good idea on any used bike. Being 20+ year old you should seriously consider new crank seals. Our RMXs’ had problems with the Power Valves, so be sure to clean and do a thorough inspection of yours.....
  13. 89-91 RM 250 used a larger head pipe diameter, so unless your cylinder has been switched with earlier model, does not fit. FMF discontinued the 92 RM 250 pipes a couple years ago. Best option now is Pro-Circuit. https://www.procircuit.com/platinum-pipe-rm250-92.html The 1992 RM FMF Fatty pipe did fit my 1998 RMX, but hit one of the side PV cover bolts (required a small dent to fit), so don’t see why 93-98 RMX pipes wouldn’t fit. Problem with that is only pipe available from FMF for 93-98 RMX 250 is the Gnarly, which completely neuters top end power... I’d go with the PC...
  14. I had a ‘00 that I sold years ago. One of the things unique to the ‘00 & ‘01 RM 250’s is that they used a Power Valve Solenoid. This gets gummed up often and can cause the powervalves to not open when they should, which causes detonation, and a loss of top end power. It’s kind of an expensive part $100~. Many guys just removed them. If it’s gone, or gummed up beyond repair, leave the breather hose open to atmosphere and set your power valve adjustment knob to 1 full turn clockwise instead of 1/2 and you’ll regain some of the lost bottom end power.
  15. Those provide air to the pilot jet and the main jets emulsion tube to atomize the fuel. If you’re getting a lot of blow back, check your reeds...