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temporarily_locked last won the day on November 2 2008

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    Dirtbike, RC Car, 85 Bronco
  1. The short answer is it can be, but it’s more complicated then that. For pros usually they have there foot off because it’s still off from having it out for the corner. It feels like it saves energy to stand by seat bouncing a little and the foot being off doesn’t really do anything. Weighting the pegs unevenly alone doesn’t cause it though. It’s that uneven weighting causing the lean of the bike to change up the face. You can have the bike kick out with the pegs evenly weighted or not kick out at all favoring either peg. It happened to me a lot as a beginner standing, weighting the outside peg while cornering into the face and standing the bike up
  2. Most issues arise from changing the lean of the bike. If your going to jump turning and leaning, keep the same amount of turn and lean up the entire jump face. Stopping turning and standing the bike up while going off the lip makes weird things happen. Usually what I do is throw a small whip so I can lean the bike a little extra once I’m in the air. It makes the back end swing out further but it comes back.
  3. You sound like someone who’s land would be fun to trespass on.
  4. Before you start ripping (with the tractor) get some stakes or cones and map out your plan and let them/you ride it. Start off using the terrain logically, up and down the hills, maybe an off camber. Turns right at the top of bottom of the hills, or longer runs up if you want to jump up and down. Ride it both directions and see if one way is better. once you have the basic layout then you start looking at where you want to put your jumps. Long straits into hair pins. Longer straits broken up with a sharp s. Tight radius, sweepers, corner small strait corner. Increasing/decreasing radius. If it’s set up for small bikes put the jumps on shorter straits close to corners to keep speeds down . You want straits long enough they can get the bike going and up to speed but not so long that they end motoring along too long in a strait line. More turns > jumps/straits. Maximize space but still keep laptimes reasonable. berms are time consuming for building and maintainence. Pick a couple good ones but look to use the terrain and keep them flat
  5. Your right foot won’t be on the peg when you are sitting. It will depend on when you go from sitting to standing. If you stop braking before sitting then you would probably get your foot back on the peg. If you are already sitting and braking when you put your foot out then you wouldn’t be touching your pegs.
  6. Yeah I think the spinning track probably has less effect then the spinning rear wheel. As for whips I don’t think anyone is adding weight to the wheels. You get more gyro from having the wheel spin faster. Hang time is also part of it. It’s much easier to throw big whips over a 90 foot jump then a 65 or 70 footer. I think you see that with the best whip comps too. Over time they have moved the ramps back. On Mx tracks the faster jumps are easier to whip on. Fast second or third gear jumps minimum. Trying to throw whips on slower vet track jumps that everyone seem to like are sketch
  7. I’m only 28 but it’s very area, track and event specific. I know I can range from back of the pack novice to front of pack intermediate. Seems like as I’ve gotten older people’s general attitudes have gotten better. Guys are out there for fun, and a battle is still a battle even if it’s just to not get last haha. Lots of guys who have been racing their whole lives along with guys just getting into it. Do some practice days you can get a good idea of where you stand.
  8. One thing racing allows you do do is go ride new places you have never been or places you might not normally have access to. For me riding a variety of terrains and places keeps riding fun. It’s really easy to plateau as a one track or riding area hero
  9. I have a 2015 yz450f and a 2006 yz250. Unfortunately the two strokes still vibrate, even the 18 125’s. I don’t notice it very much but other people do. Seems to help to keep a loose grip and keep the bike revved out. New (or newer) bikes are always awesome. Keep in mind to get the most out of it you want to be able to get the suspension revalved and sprung for you within a few months of getting the bike. Along with any other set up stuff, bars, brakes, sprockets and tires. the new bike may not add a whole lot. Its the fine tuning, set up and small incremental gains that get you to those big jumps in speed and endurance.
  10. Even with weight transfer, if your braking transfers 80% of the weight to the front (I doubt you’re braking that hard), your giving up one fifth of your braking power by not using the rear brake. Brake less with the front, you give up even more not using the rear. Unless the rear wheel is coming off the ground coming into a corner, you will slow faster using the rear brake.
  11. There are too many factors to narrow anything down. It could be the bike, or you. Set up, suspension, motor, ergos. It could also be your used to your bike so you can ride it harder, and you aren’t pushing as hard on a borrowed bike you are unfamiliar with. generally bike weight and power make the biggest difference in fatigue for similar set up bikes for me. I can ride longer on 125/250 over 250f/450
  12. 1. Standing. Get your weight back. Further then normal. Harder braking and stopping faster means more force on your body. Get back and use your legs to resist braking. 2. Feed in the rear brake. I go where to my rear wheel starts skipping with out sliding or locking up. 3. Then start feeding in front brake. Eventually you can do front and rear at the same time. 4. Transition to sitting keeping both brakes applied. Thats what I would start out practicing
  13. Open public lands are going to continue to go the direction they are currently going. More and more people confined to less more beat trails. The secret stuff is all ok though. The places you can’t find but have to be shown. Screen the peeps you show. Build your own trails. Network with like minded people. You get out what you put in.
  14. I have a 2015 with 80 hours on it that I’m tearing down to put and piston and cam chain in. I wish I could afford to just sell it and buy new.
  15. Moving the pegs back doesn’t change much. The bikes cg stays in the same spot, the pegs will be further from it. That only effects the rotation of the bike when it pitches forward and back like over a jump or in whoops. The effects aren’t noticeable because your bars are further from the cg making those inputs better for leverage in rotating the bike. How acceleration, braking and gravity/jumps interact between bike rider and contact points are all still the same. It’s done for rider preference.