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temporarily_locked last won the day on November 2 2008

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    Dirtbike, RC Car, 85 Bronco
  1. Line choice. Your technique needs some work, but it won't matter if your not hitting the correct lines. Next time have the filmer get videos of your corners. You need to try to find ruts and berms to bank of off. If your going to take the corner flat you need to set up wider and use a broader arc. Be on the gas later, set later braking points and brake harder. Accelerate harder. You have lots of options for things to work on.
  2. Depends on the rut. Tight ruts hairpins where you pivot you want to be far forward. On faster ruts side to side lean and balance is more important then forward or back. climbing out to the outside is always a lean issue for me. If I lean to late i go strait and over the rut. If I lean to early I end up having to stand the bike up mid rut and climb out. It's all in the lean
  3. What's the track? I like to stay standing late, get my braking done early so I can be slightly on the gas as I enter the corner, still standing. I try to sit right around the apex, when I sit it's far forward I lay the bike down further leaning down with it. I 'bury' the bike but am getting hard on the gas at the same time as I make my exit so it works well and you shoot out of the corner.
  4. Stand up more. Sitting you get pulled through your arms, standing you get pushed through the pegs.
  5. Even if you are high in the rpm's on the jump face the panic rev will keep the the front end up more then if you chop the throttle and drop the front end
  6. Diablo Mx? There are two ways to control your body's balance in this situation. How far forward your Cg is rotated from the pegs and the distance your cg is from the pegs. If your already forward then try to keep your weight lowers. Lowering your weight reduces the leverage pulling you back.
  7. California

    video of me from Barona a few weeks back
  8. California

    Cahuilla Saturday
  9. Someone got some good quality footage of me and gave it to me so I made an edit. edit: this one was good too
  10. smooth straits you can be far forward and more strait legged ( legs in line with your back) when you shift. As things get rougher you start having to bring your weight back. You still keep your head forward but bend your knees, get you butt back and keep your body low when shifting. This crouching takes more energy. If you can get the power down enough to lighten up the front wheel after your shift you can start to try to straiten your legs a bit if you can keep the front end light and stay on the gas. You have to be on the gas if you want to be forward and not get beat up.
  11. focus on your cornering and your jumping will come. 0:36 - You are coming in to far to the right. If you are going to go outside line up all the way outside down the strait. Get the bike leaned over and use the start of the rut/berm so you don't have to brake as hard. You are entering it late and not flowing with it. 0:42 - you do good down the strait, but then you dive super deep into that corner and hit a sharp apex. on that strait smoothly make your way to the right side of the track similar to what you did, but at the first hay bail covered with while plastic you should start braking and working your way back to the left and going to the inside on that left turn. 1:06 - same as 0:36 your coming in to far to the right. 1:59 - practice going inside there. The run up is shorter, but I can hear you blip the throttle before the jump face when you go outside. From the inside would be a good one to learn to seat bound on.
  12. Your form is where it should be for the skill level you are at. You're neutral on the bike, jumping smoothly having to make minimal corrections, which leads to the style you have: which is very much just floating along with the bike through the air. This is exactly how you want to start out jumping because you are getting comfortable with the basic motions. You are minimizing the unexpected things that can happen to you on the face and in the air. Where to go from here is either going further inside on the corner before the jump so you are forced to stay sitting and accelerate harder up the face to clear the jump. Or go wider through the corner so you can carry extra speed, stand up early and soak the face up with you legs to jump lower and not overjump. Your style will evolve as you start having to give more inputs on the jump face and make more adjustments in the air.
  13. Coming up short wasn't your problem as much as the fact that your rear end swung to your left a little bit. When your front clears the knuckle but the rear doesn't with your back end kicked out to the left, the rear of the bike rebounds to the right. The front stays relatively strait but the back end swings, you crank the bars to the right trying to save it but get ejected to the left when the bike straitens and stands up. In those situations your better off landing front wheel first so there is still a chance the front will follow the back and reduce the swap. Had you jumped strait you probably would have been fine.
  14. I've tacked on a bolt and used a slide hammer to pull those before