temporarily_locked

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temporarily_locked last won the day on November 2 2008

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  1. focus on your cornering and your jumping will come. 0:36 - You are coming in to far to the right. If you are going to go outside line up all the way outside down the strait. Get the bike leaned over and use the start of the rut/berm so you don't have to brake as hard. You are entering it late and not flowing with it. 0:42 - you do good down the strait, but then you dive super deep into that corner and hit a sharp apex. on that strait smoothly make your way to the right side of the track similar to what you did, but at the first hay bail covered with while plastic you should start braking and working your way back to the left and going to the inside on that left turn. 1:06 - same as 0:36 your coming in to far to the right. 1:59 - practice going inside there. The run up is shorter, but I can hear you blip the throttle before the jump face when you go outside. From the inside would be a good one to learn to seat bound on.
  2. Your form is where it should be for the skill level you are at. You're neutral on the bike, jumping smoothly having to make minimal corrections, which leads to the style you have: which is very much just floating along with the bike through the air. This is exactly how you want to start out jumping because you are getting comfortable with the basic motions. You are minimizing the unexpected things that can happen to you on the face and in the air. Where to go from here is either going further inside on the corner before the jump so you are forced to stay sitting and accelerate harder up the face to clear the jump. Or go wider through the corner so you can carry extra speed, stand up early and soak the face up with you legs to jump lower and not overjump. Your style will evolve as you start having to give more inputs on the jump face and make more adjustments in the air.
  3. Coming up short wasn't your problem as much as the fact that your rear end swung to your left a little bit. When your front clears the knuckle but the rear doesn't with your back end kicked out to the left, the rear of the bike rebounds to the right. The front stays relatively strait but the back end swings, you crank the bars to the right trying to save it but get ejected to the left when the bike straitens and stands up. In those situations your better off landing front wheel first so there is still a chance the front will follow the back and reduce the swap. Had you jumped strait you probably would have been fine.
  4. I've tacked on a bolt and used a slide hammer to pull those before
  5. Haha that makes sense. There's nothing wrong with hitting the rev limiter, I probably do it a couple times a lap. Usually it's in the air, but sometimes it's on the straits when I'm trying to stretch out third gear. When I'm feeling out lines a lot of times I'll ride 3rd to the limiter and it gives me an idea if I should grab 4th the next time around. Ocassionally there are sections i hit it regularlly. And if you hit jumps pinned, any gas to bring the front end up you hit the limiter
  6. weINer
  7. Yz250. Done.
  8. I'm interested. I think you message box is full?
  9. This is a good thread. I was suprised you didn't get any bites. I know when I get tired I start having the same problem. I stop leading with my lean and the bike starts standing up. Most of my tracks get rutted so the front washing isn't an issue. On flat corners I would look at where you transition from standing to sitting if your having issues with the front washing. Smooth braking and throttle transition with minimal coasting. I'd try to isolate where and when it's washing and adjust accordingly.
  10. make sure you get some good knee pads. I don't like neck braces, but i do really like the Leatt Dual Axis Knee/Shin Guards.
  11. ride on the balls of your feet, grip with your ankles and calves. Really gripping with your legs isn't as important as body position that anticipates the acceleration. Staying low by bending at your knees and hips makes it a lot easier. If you stay infront of the bike and get push through the pegs, you don't really have to get pulled through your arms at all. I'm 6'4" on bike thats stock except for low bars with minimum sweep. It keeps me down and forward, wide open is no problem.
  12. Double post
  13. If you assume bike weight to be 250 lb, that 50% difference in rider weight is only a 19% difference in combine rider /bike weight. Noticeable? Yeah. But in practice it makes little difference for amateurs. On 90 percent of jumps, if you can corner well , you can over jump so far to flat it's disgusting. Even if your on the husky side, weight isn't going to hold you back.
  14. Sitting allows you to lean the bike over further. The more you are leaned the faster you can change direction ie turn. This is most effective when you have something to bank off of, like a rut or berm.
  15. Op said he only trail rides. So this may be one of those situations where you just have to twist it in 1st gear. Cutting the corner isn't a bad idea to get the jump figured out if it's possible