ThoughtlessCRF

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About ThoughtlessCRF

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  1. sounds like youve got yourself a keeper !! they are seriously impressive bikes. when i watched the previous owner take off down the road i was honestly amazed at how fast it got up to speed. and it was all stock besides the pipe. i gotta say it really wouldnt surprise me if it could keep up with my 450. it would be awesome to throw on some modern forks and shock though.
  2. Yeah its sort of preference in my opinion when it comes to whether you want boyesen or v force. However what is nice about the boyesen rad valve is i believe there is no modification required because it includes its own intake boot. so it does right off the bat have the upper hand in convenience. Personally this is my first 2 stroke bike. and im really just choosing it because my cousin years ago on his rm 125 bought v force reeds and he said he loved the difference. i personally remember even hearing a difference with out the bike revved. so for me it was a no brainer. But i will say boyesen has made such good quality products you can't go wrong. id say if you want something thats truly a bolt on part that will require nothing but simply replacing the reed system boyesen is the way to go. Another thing is since i had to mod this v force one if i had known what i needed to do that off the bat i probably wouldnt have chosen it. whats nice about the boyesen is you know that air boot that comes with it is specifically designed for their reeds which could possibly mean more flow ie more power over all.
  3. Its all good man ! Well personally over the years of working on engines and always focusing on squeezing as much power as possible out of them. You learn that any hard edges inside of an intake runner ( ie the intake boot connecting to the v force reeds. ) causes alot of turbulence. The veforce reeds intake port corners were sticking out when it was bolted up to the cr's intake boot. you could run your fingers along each corner and feel a hard edge because of its shape and size. so all i did was trace the cr's factory boot shape with a pencil on the reeds face and it left the exact shape of what the honda's boot shape is. its actually surprising to me that they arent manufactured like this because haveing those edges like that would have disrupted the air flow. When i matched the edges with the boot i not only technically increased the volume of air (not alot just marginally ) more importantly i eliminated those hard edges so the air flowing through at high speed will essentially slip by those edges instead of snagging on them.
  4. Nice bike man ! I really enjoy alot about the bike already !! I got the V-force 3 reeds installed now and the carb. I had to re-jet the carb because where i bought the bike it was at sea level, and i live at 4500 ft. talked to my local dirt bike shop and they recommended a step down on both pilot and main jet. But regardless i think it will be a process to get it properly tuned. i purchased a couple plugs aswell. i think however i may have made a mistake already lol. When i was cutting the air boot i completely forgot to use the washer they include to know how far to cut it off as there is supposed to be slight raised edge. so i checked it with the included gasket and sure enough there is a slight gap between the boot face and the reed face. so i just made a gasket that fills that void but doesnt impede any of the air flow. I also noticed on the V force system it was actually slightly smaller than the size of the boots intake so you could feel the edges of it. so i ported it a bit to match the stock boot shape to eliminate the edges so it all flows with out much interruption. After using my dremel to get that reed housing matched to the factory boot intake is better personally. when i ran my fingers along the inside there was no hard edges or anything that would cause turbulence.
  5. Hey everyone ! Okay so i've only owned 4 strokes my entire life. the first bike i've ever riden was a 2 stroke and i just miss the 2 stroke scene. so recently i was looking at some CR's and came across a 1996 CR250 that was still the original owner so it hadn't been flipped around. The bike was a beast when he took it down the road and idled nicely. i didn't test ride it because i just don't like the liability involved with it incase anything happens but he was more than willing to take it down the road and go through the gears. Here are some of the claims that are a bit unlikely but he swore by them. He claims the bike has its original bars, grips, front tire and said the bike has probably 30 original hours on it. Claims he bought it just because of how well jeremy mcgrath was going and was garage kept for years and riden and modded some what. Only things i can see that were changed are the frame is powdercoated, procircuit platnum pipe and factory sound silencer. it does have excel wheels so id imagine if its the original front tire he probably just bought the wheels and put it back on. Anyways heres when i brought it home you can tell he was going for a more blacked out look but im not to into it. After looking at all the Jeremy Mcgrath cr250's of this year i just wanted to bring it back to red. I also went on motocal and designed a set of graphics that are similar but not identical to the Jeremy mcgrath graphics, i just didn't want to be the typical cr250 with the same graphics as everyone else. Just going to do some light things like cleaning up, correct plastics, new radiators and hoses, putting a new procircuit platnum because the current one has been almost twisted and its to the point where it will not fit into the exhaust port straight and it wont seal. i've tried to bend it a bit but its just not going back into the proper alignment. also got some V-force3 reeds. One of the details i noticed on mcgraths factory bike is he had a carbon fiber airbox so i bought some wrap and wanted to try to wrap it to give it that look that its CF. i may tear this one off and try again but i think i'll leave it and maybe just try to smooth out some areas first. Next on the list is the tires which i ordered so it will be a couple days. hopefully i'll get the new reed's in and the carb back in. hopefully will have the new fatty in this week. and then the plastics aswell. can't wait to get this thing back together.
  6. Yeah my 86 xl600 came with it on the bike and its nothing special. i personally see them purely for just forestry compliance and nothing more.
  7. Ohh okay. So i decided to pull the motor and check the cam timing with the T mark lined up and the cams marks are spot on. i didn't take a pic of it but they were perfectly level on both ends with the surface of the head. Also after removing the engine i noticed the stator ground wire that screws to the block near the drive gear was half sheered off because who ever put it on basically screwed the magneto cover bolt right over it.
  8. Okay so im looking into this cdi he gave me. Apparently its an advanced timing one. Is there a chance its a bit too far advanced and causing spark while the intake valves are still open when its idling which would cause the lack of complete combustion ?
  9. Well i have it running and from what i've heard XR's only is a good place to have your XR/XL engine done. Maybe i've read wrong though. But its mainly just idling with the popping and stalling. When you open it up it wants to pick up speed and has a decent amount of power. Im just wondering if there is a lack of voltage when there is a lower rpm to generate enough spark to efficiently idle the engine. I may just have to pull the motor to check the cam timing. Im not really sure if i should get an OEM cdi or a better brand one and a new stator or not.
  10. Hey everyone, Okay so i bought a project bike for a cafe racer type build but my first focus is to get it running good. To start off the guy i bought it from said he was having a hard time getting it started and hes 61 so he didn't even want to bother with it even though he claims he just had XR's Only rebuild the top end after he had a stretched valve issue. He showed me pictures of inside the cyl and it looks healthy and still has the crosshatching as well as looking through the caps that allow you to adjust your valve clearance everything looks new and clean with no sludge. So i've started working on this thing and started stripping it down to where i can access everything. I cleaned the carbs which did need it. he also handed me a bunch of extra main jets for the bike aswell as two cdi boxes. One of them is an after market one and the other oem one. First thing i noticed is it is impossible to get the bike running with the stock cdi box. Plugged in the cdi box made by " electro sport " or something like that that says " XR600r increased " starts up. I spent awhile tuning the primary carb and playing with different jets etc. eventually i got it so you can rev it but idle it pops and wants to die. I did do some test riding and it seems to have pretty decent power but soon as you let off and pull in that clutch to let the idle go down it just pops and wants to stall. so far i have it dialed in enough to get it to start on about the second to third kick when cold with the choke in. I've had some people tell me to measure my stator which i did atleast from what i've searched on which wires to test i from ie black/red wire and ground. I get 114 ohms on it. I contacted ricky stators and they said it should be in the 300 ohm range and that its way out of spec if its reading that. But im not even sure if im reading the proper wires. I ordered a shop manual for the bike but until it arrives does anyone have any input ? Also i made sure the valves were in spec which i was told its .004 for intake and .005 for exhaust. I want to check the cams gear timing but im not wanting to pull the motor out. Thanks ! Kody
  11. I mean for radiators that are cheaper its not bad. Usually if you want larger tank radiators for better cooling for the most part you'll end up buying fluidynes which are 500 dollar radiators. I had them and they did work good... But yeah as long as it doesn't leak you'll be fine. Ebay has policy's that allow the buyer to get full refunds or exchanges if the product is not operating. So you should be fine. I have a pair of DPL radiators i'll try to take a pic of the welds on those. They are good knock offs of the fluidynes. They cool really good too.
  12. Im also currently on the market for a CR. I prefer however anything over the year 2000. I don't like the looks of most the CR's cosmetically from before 2000. I hear alot that the CR's that used the electronically controlled RC valve with the servo motor have problems. but at the same time i've heard that when they work, they work great. Im simply repeating what i've heard so i don't actually know. I've never actually owned a CR and i've only riden a Cr 125 once years ago and loved it. But ive primarily been riding 4 strokes for the last 14 years. Just wanna get an ideal CR that is a great bike. Personally the servo motor issue doesn't scare me. Im mechanically inclined and work on all my bikes and cars so i have a basic understanding of mechanical and electronic things.
  13. I have 4 different helmets. I'll say personally i never wear gear thats conflicting with one another... like wearing fly gear with a troy lee designs helmet or like a fox helmet etc. Usually the companies that you can wear with just about any gear are bell, shoei, arai, evs and more. I have the FLY F2, the Troy lee designs 3x wardy, EVS T7, and AGV AX8 EVO The cheapest helmet is the EVS T7, its an alright helmet but the mouth piece sticks out really far which i hate. I like helmets that have a close mouth piece preferably 2 fingers away from my mouth. also the EVS T7 isn't the most comfortable its the type of helmet that feels like the foam inside it just never feels broken in. The TLD helmet is one of my favorites as it has very soft nice fitting foam and the mouth piece is close so it doesn't have that affect like the mouth piece is sticking out like its 20feet infront of you. The Fly F2 has a nice construction and feels very comfortable, also good mouth piece distance. One of the problems with it however is my SPY ACE goggles fit sort of snug in the opening so its sort of a challenge to get the goggles off sometimes. But overall i love the style and feel of that helmet and it has amazing ventilation. The last helmet AGV AX8 evo in my opinion is the best of the 4, its interior is super plush and soft and really good are moisture wicking. The mouth piece covers a large area where your chin and mouth is. And the opening for the goggles fits my ACE's nicely. It's light and feels like its one with your head. I personally love everything about the AGV. The italians really know what they are doing. Personally i believe you should set a price to start off. But also you don't want to cheap out. I prefer helmets that are minimum 200 dollars. If that seems steep that you can go with the EVS which ranges 70-80 dollars. It works but its not exactly the most comfortable. If anything save up about 200-300 dollars... look around for some brands you like and buy it.
  14. i understand its just not in my budget. If i were to sell my crf250 maybe.. But in general i don't feel like i need more power out of my bike. Going from my 05 250 to a 2016 450 was a huge jump. I will say id like to get an idea for maybe the future though. It would be cool to have another built motor. My 250 was built by procircuit top to bottom and that was pricey. Im not sure if his motors price wise would cost similar. but back then i paid about 4k to have my motor fully built. I messaged him on his FB page. no response. i'll try to message him on here.
  15. 0 reviews

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