• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

174 Excellent

About arthur6

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. We're always looking for cool pipes for these bikes. We have been looking in 2016 and in 2018. Always looking
  2. We've submerged many bikes. Remove sparkplug, lift bike onto rear wheel, like a wheelie, water will run out of the exhaust. Flip bike all the way over, upside down. Water will run out of the spark plug hole. Spin rear wheel with transmission in gear, water will run out of the engine and spit out of spark plug hole. Put bike right-side up, install spark plug, Squeez water out of air filter. Loosen the carb drain screw, drain the carb, tighten screw. Loosen stator cover bolts, crack the clover so water can run out, tighten the bolts Start bike, it'll start. We've done this on the trail MANY times. When you get home change oil.
  3. That's funny
  4. Guys, a 2001 XR100 has different plastic than a 2000 - I think... 2000 is the older style - without tank shrouds. 2001 looks like a CRF - with the tank shrouds. Left & Right number plates - do they swap? Will the different plastic fit each bike? Thanks
  5. Get yourself a YZ250f, it has power more like a 125 2 stroke. Ride the less powered bike for a while then work up to that 250n2 stroke.
  6. We're all kids inside
  7. I read tons of posts on here that say a bike won't run but the carburetor has been cleaned twice, three times, whatever. We've bought and sold and parted out hundreds of bikes, MANY were small XR Hondas. Small XRs are our thing, we buy every bike we can. Most of the bikes we buy are not running. I'd say 80% of the time all we do is clear the pilot jet and the bike runs fine. In our experience the carb doesn't have to be "clean", we've started many bikes (just clearing the pilot jet) with REALLY crusty carb insides. ... Also we've had bikes that look brand new, carb is super clean inside but that pilot jet is clogged. It never seems to matter if the valves are "in spec" or in compression is really low, the bike will start. May not run well but it'll start and idle just fine. The first thing we do is make sure there's oil in the engine, then we remove the carb and clear the pilot jet. Most of the time the engine starts. We've never had a bike that "jumped timing" or the cam chain was too worn out to run. ..... IF the engine has not been apart or "rebuilt"
  8. That's funny and I agree 100%
  9. Is 60 stock size ? 14 front? I've had several TL125s... one I put a 12 on the front, you couple easily walk faster than 1st gear would go.
  10. This is just a thread about oil to gas ratios. In the early 70s the manufactures recommended 16 to 1. Then it went to 20 to 1 recommendation. You can mix whatever you like, your bike will run just fine with proper jetting. We run and have always run 100:1 or so. 200:1 with alcohol. You probably won't run alcohol, its expensive, difficult to buy and only gives about 30% more power. Run any oil to gas ratio you like, we've found more oil means more oily mess from the exhaust.
  11. Was just a comment on "rebuilt" engines. A four stroke doesn't need oil in the gas. You should have known better.
  12. You can change the main jet to HUGE and the engine won't run. Too small engine wont run either. Regardless of oil to gas ratio. You run straight gas and you'll have no oil dripping from the exhaust, engine wont last long. Try a 10 to 1 oil to gas ratio, oil will be pouring out the exhaust. Engine will run fine with proper jetting. We had a CR500 we ran on alcohol, that fuel burns about twice as fast as gas, we mixed 200 to 1 oil, ran great for over a year. Jetting changes the fuel to air ratio, this thread is about oil to gas ratio. ... Also most of the bikes we buy that have "rebuilt" engines don't run. ... TONS on threads right here on ThumperTalk about rebuilt engines the guy cant get running. We didn't say every engine rebuild is a failure... a LOT are but not all. Here's a pic of a rebuilt YZ450 head that ran for about 2 minutes. We bought it and parted it out on eBay.
  13. Oil doesn't make power, gasoline does. Less oil = more gas for power (combustion). Or less gas - more oil = less power (combustion). Oil doesn't burn - More oil (too much oil) just drips out the exhaust. We've all seen bikes with that black goo running out of the silencer and at the pipe at the cylinder. Some guys (MANY threads on here) give tips on how to "seal" the pipe to the cylinder and stop that "leak". Can't be done - won't ever work. The pipe must be "loose" at the cylinder or it will crack a solid mount. That's why there's rubber mounts everywhere the pipe mounts to the bike, engine, frame, everywhere. ... 4 strokes are different, exhaust is mounted solid everywhere... Oil "leaking" from a 2 stroke pipe is just more oil than can be burned off during combustion. If more oil is better why not run 10 to 1 ? If less is better why not run 500 to 1 ? Consumer motorcycle engines are VERY forgiving in this regard. Obviously you can run anywhere form 20:1 to 100:1 and be safe as far as engine wear in concerned. We've always run around to 100:1, never had an oil related engine failure. Also we never have that oily mess oozing from an exhaust. My 2 ¢