marcavella11

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About marcavella11

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    South Africa
    Great bike very nice handling and soft suspension.
    Fully rebuilt motor, suspension a little stiff but otherwise a great bike.
  1. Thanks a lot for the advice. That definitely makes a lot more sense to me now, i will definitely change the oil pump just to be safe and build it properly once , as from what i have experienced there is no other way with these high performance motors.. I have a kx250f EFI as well but still prefer the yamahas handling in the corners and overall feel. Cheers Marc Thanks a lot for the advice. That definitely makes a lot more sense to me now, i will definitely change the oil pump just to be safe and build it properly once , as from what i have experienced there is no other way with these high performance motors.. I have a kx250f EFI as well but still prefer the yamahas handling in the corners and overall feel. Cheers Marc
  2. Hi Ron, thanks for the reply , there is actually a whole lot more to it , just wanted to keep the question as simple as possible incase someone has had the same issue before.. initially I bought the bike used and decided to do a piston change that's when I noticed the pitting on the small end part of the pin. I then changed the piston and pin to a Wossner , bike rode perfectly for about 10 hours until the crank bearing seized which I believe was due to low oil.. the oil tank and eye caused the confusion after standing a while the level appears to be more .. never the less I got the bottom end rebuilt and used the same piston with a new pin.. that ended up being a big mistake as the pin ripped out from underneath the piston and destroyed my cylinder .. The pin was also badly scored don't know if that happened before or after the piston broke like that.. I want to rebuild the motor again from bottom to top but I feel reluctant as I don't see how these older motors get enough oil to the sleeve and piston pin when there is no oil jet from below that squirts oil to the piston and pin?
  3. Noticed pitting on my piston pin that went through the coating when changing the piston. Also dont see any oil jet to lubricate the pin . Oil pickup screen is clean and have checked all pasages.. Could a bad oil pump be causing this? Cam journals are all fine.. Have also checked oil pressure bolt during idle and oil does come out.
  4. Other things you can test are the tps and ignition coil. All details in manual
  5. Okay so got my bike working finally! Still don't know exactly what caused it but what I did was.. Get the stator tested by an expert. Then spray all connections with wd40. Take a 12v battery and connect it to where the capacitor/condenser connects and start bike . If problem persists , remove plug from Ecu and remove tape from wiring harness and check that crimped connectors inside are not corroded from water entering during washing. Also check that stator is producing enough voltage while running on battery by disconnecting regulator/rectifier plug and checking with a multimeter set to AC. Should make over 100 volts while revving . If all else fails , check fuel pressure remains at 3 bar with guage. Make sure injector is clean and make sure you run fresh unleaded fuel . I had a nightmare of an issue but if you check all those things you should be good otherwise let me know
  6. Still struggling , got a brand new coil and cleaned the contact to the plug cap all reading fine with multimeter . Bike still doing the same . Starts up runs for a bit , then backfires and dies. No more spark after it dies.. Checked crank sensor resistance when there was no spark and it was within range too.. Could this be the Ecu then? This is the most frustrating problem I have ever had on any machine in my life
  7. Thanks for the response , I have ordered a new ignition coil but not the cap. Hopefully that's the problem.. Glad to hear that these problems do exist with Kawasaki as the bike shops I have spoken to said they have never replaced ignition coils on a 250f.
  8. Was this on a 2011 model?
  9. I would say first identify the problem properly ie weak or intermittent spark. If that is the case , remove your stator, capacitor ,regulator/rectifier, Ignition coil , plug cap and plug and take them to a motorcycle electrician and get each component bench tested with voltage through them. Ignition coils can go bad once they get hot and may read fine when cold. I have been away from home for a couple of weeks but that is what i would do before replacing things
  10. Hey man tried a lot of other things and looks like it's not sparking correctly and intermittent spark when it gets hot . Try starting your bike and letting it die . When it dies take your plug out and connect it to the lead and ground it to the frame and kick. If no spark then get your ignition coil tested and stator or the capacitor . I have not had time lately but will update you as soon as I fix it
  11. It's usually the top end that wears out . Rings aren't sealing and allowing the fuel to burn
  12. Jetting should never really be drastically changed from stock unless you are at a high altitude. Sounds to me like your bike needs a new piston and rings . My kx did the same and would foul plugs all the time. The rings not sealing causes the fuel not to burn properly