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  1. I have a Yaris 4-dr sedan with a 5m tranny. If I drive 75 on the interstate, I get about 36 mpg. If I drive real easy in mixed surface streets and 2 lane, it gets about 41-43 mpg, which is what I get most of the time. GPS measrued top speed is electronically limited to 115mph. It is not quick, but it is adequate, cruises at 80 mph with no trouble. It has more trunk and seat room than my Impreza by a good margin. It is no sports car, soft suspension wide trans ratios, not much power, etc. but it is still a very good point a to point b car, completely competent no joke car- unlike a "Smart" "car." As for the Prius battery plant ruining the environment in that Canadian city (whose name I forget): My dad visited that city in the 1960's. He said it was ruined then. It was ruined from copper mines 40 years before Toyota produced the Prius. It just a good move for them to open the battery plant there because that area had already been ruined, so a spill wouldn't mess it up worse.
  2. Britishbikes

    Identify year of bike from serial number?

    If you wan to identify the bike from a serial number the best way to do it is to go to the Kawasaki web site and go to owner info, parts diagrams, and enter the serial number. The year/model of the bike should come up.
  3. Britishbikes

    Single Track Trails on KLR 650

    The stock tires are not good in sand or mud. With real knobbies and Progressive suspension at both ends, the bike can do real Florida single track. It is a lot of work but it will do it. If you weigh 220lbs and are in good condition this will help, but the stock suspension is not going to be stiff enough for sand whoops. Also the windshield will hit your chest in whoops, so you might want to take that off. In fact I have taken a KLR down single track with the stock tires and sagglebags, but I had to be pretty careful and slow. Even with improvements, a KLR on single track feels like a school bus at Deals Gap.
  4. Britishbikes

    Do the RADIATOR and PUMP Guard really work??

    KLR setup depends on what works for the rider. Mine has no blinkers, horn fairing, luggage rack, reflectors, etc. and the heavy stock muffler is replaced with a lighter unit. But a 398 pound bike with no radiator seems less ridable than a 399 pound bike with a radiator, so it has a guard. Having bushes catch the levers is not fun, so it has bark busters. Cases that hold oil are good, so it has a bash plate. I hate weight, but some parts have to be there so I can get home. Lots of dirtbikes have skidplates and rad guards and bark busters and are still light. What makes the KLR heavy is the 6 gallons of fuel and the big 650 engine with its dual balance shafts and electric starter. To me those three things are worth the weight (most of the time).
  5. Britishbikes

    KLR 685 Dyno results

    It was on some other kind of dyno, I just need to scan the graph at work if i get a chance. I don't know what kind other than it was an inerta dyno, like a dynojet. I didn't see any names on it.
  6. Britishbikes

    Do the RADIATOR and PUMP Guard really work??

    I got a Dualstar radiator guard. It does work. It is good. If you don't have it you can mess up the rad. I have bent the smaller one on my klx400 and my old klr. My new klr has one and even a sideways trip through the air which dislocated the shroud didn't ding the rad. Just because 420 didn't need a rad guard yet doesn't mean they are a waste of metal. I mean a rad guard is lighter than a helmet, so 420 could get a rad guard and leave his helmet at home and come out ahead right? He seems to be pretty hard headed anyway.
  7. Britishbikes

    KLR 685 Dyno results

    I don't have a scanner, but here are some of the numbers: 4000 rpm 30.92 hp 40.79 tq 4500 rpm 36.23 42.51 5000 rpm 40.36 42.61 tq peak 5500 rpm 42.65 40.94 6000 rpm 43.73 38.46 6200 rpm 44.62 peak hp 37.99 6500 rpm 43.92 35.66 7000 rpm 41.62 34.35 7500 rpm 36.68 25.82 This engine has: Schnitz 685 kit Schnitz .010 base gasket for 9.85:1 compression Supertrapp muffler and midpipe, all but 3 discs in w/o endcap. Dynojet stage 2 jetkit 150 main/ clip at 4th from top. No airbox cover/ no screen- stock filter. (shop owner said K&N lets sand pass here in FL) Webcam midrange cams which allow stock springs, guides, shims and valve cutouts. 3 angle valve job. 93 octane pump gas 20w-50 oil The peak number is about 1 hp down on the Patman engine which had a Big Gun muffler and header and a ported big valve head, but stock cams. His motor was running a little richer too, which would have helped mine at the expense of fuel milage and range. The a/f was 14.33 at the peak number but 12.41 at 4500, so a richer mainjet might have only hurt the lower midrange to get a bigger peak number and worse milage. One big advantage of the Patman motor was that it had better overrev, it was 3 hp better at 7000. Mine falls a little on top, but the midrange is real real good and only falls behind a little over 6000 rpm. This was an example of what can be done with easy to find parts and basic machine work, no tricky porting or odd fitting fabrications. The engine is leaking a little around the cam chain tunnel base, but it is a small leak. No other problems, idles almost as well as stock, starts almost as well as stock. Fuel economy is still resonable at about 40 mpg street even with constant break-in throttle roll ons.
  8. Britishbikes

    Klr650 Kawaski

    The KLR intake ports are not ideal for top end power, and there doesn't look like there is much room to port without cutting into the water jacket or valve gally. Porting and slightly bigger valves is good for 2 hp, but if you add this in with other improvements it is a significant gain. Without the headwork, a 685 kit, supertrapp muffler, a set of mild Web cams, a thinner base gasket, airbox mods and a jet kit, it woke right up, especially in the midrange. It will pull the front end up with throttle only, even if I sit on the tank. Megacycle and Web both have several grinds available for KLR cams. They weld and regrind the old cams, so no, they are NOT discontinued. Without reworking of the ports, ie heliarcing and reshaping, it isn't going to scare the new 450's much, but it can be made faster without radical work, but the modifications can't just be a new muffler and an airfilter. You have to do several things in concert, as with almost any hot rod job. The cams have to match the rpm limits of the carb and ports, etc. After looking at the ports on the KLR motor, I decided that a mild cam would be best. With the mild cam, the motor has very good midrange and pulls all the way to the redline, very nice, like a 454 Chevy that can rev to 7500. Not counting the new motocross type racebikes, the KLR685 is the most powerful single I have ridden, including much more exstinsively worked over 500's.
  9. Britishbikes

    Help on a KLR 650 Engine rebuild

    You know that $1270 number sounds pretty low for that amount of work. It sounds like the cost of parts alone... I just hopped up my KLR and just the top end- cams, muffler, jet kit and 685 kit cost around $1300. That includes the valve cut and bore. The engine was in good shape when I tore it down. Just did it to hop it up... But remember most of the work was done by me. When I worked on BSA's and Triumphs, a complete rebuild cost around $2500-$3000, not including shipping. Of course the cases had to be polished, and the external fasteners replaced with new or recad plated, but the cost without that would still be only a couple of hundered less. Most of the engines we worked on were twins, but the singles were only about $100 or so cheaper, since they needed only two valves, but the single pistons cost almost as much as a set for a twin. The steel liners in the aluminum bores were harder to cut than the cast iron cylinders on the twins... British engine parts are about on par with Japanese parts as far as cost so I figure all the work he just described would run around $2000+ if you brought the motor to him out of the frame. Figure another 6 hours to remove, reinstall and test ride the engine in the bike. Having done work on Japanese singles too, the $1270 cost for a top and bottom end job sounds really low. I do remember one guy who hit the oil plug on a rock with his KLR and he said he only needed a bore job and a piston... but several years ago this still cost him $1100 to have the work done. That being said, if you know Deep South Cycles in Thomasville, GA, thet have competent ADULT mechanics and they even lent me a bike to ride home when a repair took longer than they expected. (A minor warranty repair on a streetbike.) PS did your mechanic actually do a teardown or just guess at the damage? Lots of times the ball and roller crank bearings survive as they need relatively little oil. My first guess as to which bearings would go bad besides the piston rings would be the plain cam bearings. Again I have seen this before on older Jap 4cylinders. And on the British twins which ran out of oil it was the plain rod bearing farthest from the oil pump that bit the dust first, not the ball or rollers. A the only plain bearings in a KLR are the cam bearings and the top end rod bearing, with the cam bearings being the most sensitive to oil starvation. Anyway, if you aren't used to deciding what needs to be done inside a damaged engine, I would consider getting a few more estimates, and be weary of a low one... try to find some consistancy in which parts are going to need to be replaced etc. The low bid may get you going, but the work may not be satisfactory in the long run. You can pull the crank yourself and have an auto machine shop called Hytech in Albany Ga replace the pin and rod if it needs to be done. If they don't have the equipment they will know someone who does. They are very conpetent people who are bike nuts too. They can also do the valve job.
  10. There is no way to know the internal condition of the engine without a teardown and an examination by a meachanic who knows how to gage wear from measurements and experience. Even if the bottom end is sound, the valves and guides may be worn out. Probably time for a cam chain too. Usually the valve gear lives pretty long on Japanese bikes, but still needs to be looked at. The compression ratio of the piston will determine if it is a good bet for a bike with stock cams, and wether or not you need to run race gas. If you work closely with an experinced motorcycle mechanic, he can help with this decision. Based on the fact that you didn't include important data on the high comp piston, I would not expect you to be an experinced engine builder and therefore you would be well advised not to go inside the motor without help.
  11. Britishbikes

    why dont they make...?

    Detroit Diesel used to make a two stroke engine very similar to the one you described, except it was a diesel commercial truck engine. I have never driven a truck with one, but they were V-8's with a roots type blower. They have a distinct sound and were once pretty common in class 7 amd 8 trucks. A friend of mine said they had a quick throttle response and lots of torque. I don't know why they were discontinued; I have never heard anything bad about them. Looking into this design would be a starting point; you might find some limiting factors which would preclude its use in a high performance gasoline application. I have a feeling that the new direct injection for gas engines would work here, Bimota worked on a direct injected two stroke streetbike in the 90's but they could never get it to run without fuel delivery glitches and then they gave up. Perhaps the newer injection is better. You have to remember that a two stroke engine spinning 13k would require an injector to cycle about 4 times faster than in a four stroke passenger car engine and about 12 times faster than in a heavy truck engine. This was one of the problems for Bimota. Another thing I have thought about is that since a two cycle engine almost has to have the exhaust and intake strokes happening at the same time, it would be little advantage to have the extra weight and expense of a blower because any attempt at actually supercharging the cylinder would just blow most of the charge out the exhaust port. You would never have more power than a regular four stroke running one atmosphere (15.8psi) of boost, even if the breathing was 100% efficient. So it would make more sense if you already are going to spend money on a blower, to run an intercooler and blow a regular four cycle engine at about 20psi or more. If all you want is to not have to premix the oil and gas, you know older two stroke streetbikes and dualsports had a separate oil tank and a little pump to mix the oil for you, so that when you filled up at a gas station you just put in gas. Lots of two-cycle outboard engines have a similar feature. You're not the only one to dream of how to pressure oil the bottom of a two stroke and supercharge the top. So far the only productive way to force a two cycle to make lots more power is with NOS, at least that I have seen.
  12. Britishbikes

    New KLR650

    How is lowering a dirt bike going to update it? A KLR is not going to be much of a street bike no matter how you change the ride height. For the same price an EX500 will run rings around it and cruise easily at the KLR's flat on the tank top speed. The EX500 is also much more comfortable on long trips. The KLR is a long range dirt bike that is well suited to dirt roads and jeep trails. It slides very well and the gear ratios are closer in the top three than the bottom two, making it happiest on dirt roads but a handful on single track. A real offroad bike will out gun it, but the KLR is still a very fun dirt ROAD bike. I never ever said to myself, "Gee I wish this bike had less suspension travel..." I always wished it had a stouter front fork and more top end power. If you tune for more bottom end, you usually lose out on top. So in my mind, Kawasaki did just the opposite of what I hoped they would do. Those new suspension numbers remind me of the bad old days. PS I dragraced my '03 KLX 400SR with a removed spark arrestor , jetting and taller gearing against a '00 KLR 650 which had a pipe, jetting and guy who outweighed me by about 40 pounds. We raced on hardpack dirt twice. We were even until I had to shift into 5th on the 400 at about an indicated 80mph. Then the 650 pulled ahead. I got bored of the 400 with no range and crappy gear ratios for higher speeds. I bought my second KLR and am happy with it. The 650 has an old school type of power band. It pulls from 2k to the 7500 rpm redline with no glitch and with a much stouter delivery than the 400. That and the shorter suspension of the KLR makes it an almost magical flat tracker, but is still enough to handle ok in rough situations. Once again I think less travel will skew the balance. I think the old geometry is pretty good, but the fork is too bendy.
  13. Britishbikes

    2008 Kawasakis !!!!

    I think the 650 is taking a huge step in reverse. It only has 7.9/7.3" travel. The old one was marginal at 9.1 inches. They have also tuned the engine for more low end torque, this on an engine that already had a torque peak at 2700 rpms, and a power peak at 6300. The last thing anyone ever asks for on a KLR is more bottom end, and a case that is almost a freaking two inches closer to the ground. If you have suspension with that short of travel, and stiffen it to keep it from bottoming, it WILL BEAT YOU TO DEATH, and break wheels. This is especially true on a big heavy bike like a KLR that will run over 80mph all day long on dirt roads. They should have given it a stouter fork and stiffer springs front and rear, then they would have something, but they have detuned it into a giant foo foo bike. It is a very simple mod to lower a KLR, if you are a short rider.
  14. Britishbikes

    $500 for a valve adjustment????

    I paid about $165 (I think) for my 4cyl 16 valve Connie with threaded adjusters and a gazillion fairing parts to take off. They said a Ninja with shims would have been about $50 bucks more because they have to remove the cams to get to the shims. So $500 for an unfaired single is just rediculous. They must have been trying to run you off.
  15. Britishbikes

    LC4 Main Transmission Bearing Failure Notice

    You should not pull a bearing from an aluminum housing. Doing so will gall the aluminum. The correct procedure is to heat the case and it will expand enough to let the bearing fall out, or be pulled with very little pressure. It is about the right temp when your spit beads up on the case. Use an oxy-acetelyne torch and keep it moving, it takes a fair amount of heat to get the case hot enough. Have the new bearing wrapped in plastic and frozen so that you can plop it in when you get the old one out. I have done this many many times on older Britishbikes with no problems. I was taught this procedure from a factory trained BSA mechanic. You have to get a feel for how much heat is the right amount. Do not heat springs! If the bearing housing is steel sleeved, there may be a different procedure. I have a blind hole puller, it is a slide hammer deal and cost about $300 10 years ago, with all the attachments. When the case is hot it takes a tap tap tap not a wham wham wham to get the bearings out. I have never seen a case fail from heat stress from the torch, including race tuned engines, but I have seen bearings spin from having been forced into a cold case or wheel hub.