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NewBlue

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About NewBlue

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    Texas
  1. NewBlue

    Aftermarket 426 muffler

    I put the Yoshimura RS-3 on my wr426. and I have been very happy with it. It has a very nice build quality to it. I have done a sound test on it; however, I do know that they make some type of quiet insert for it.
  2. NewBlue

    best type oil and brand name...

    Yeah this thread is sort of a dead horse. The previous post that said "all" synthetic oil is dino based is incorrect. Ester based oils, such as Motul snythetics are made from esters. These are derived from things like coconuts. Have you ever ridden behind someone that uses Motul Synthetics? It smells sort of nice. These synthetics have very high film strengths. As far as a cost analysis goes, synthetics may very well not be the cheapest in the long run. I change my oil too frequently as it is, but I love my bike and don't mind the additional cost. The bike only holds 1.5 liters, so worst case scenario is that I spend an extra $20.00 per oil change. I am not wealthy, but I can stomach the extra expense. Use whatever oil you like. Now the Amsoil thing, they are very "amway" in my book. They tout the stuff as being better than anything. The product appears to be just fine; I just don't think it's all that they hype it to be. Every product Amsoil makes, is supposedly better than everyone else's. Just my two cents.
  3. NewBlue

    $5,400 for new 2002 426 a good deal?

    My .02 worth. I purchased a non-current 2002 wr 426 about two months ago. Brand new out of the box, and the price was $4,000.00 Hurst yamaha in Katy, TX has two 2001 yz 426f's that are still brand new, and I would think that someone could get one for about $3,500.00. For $5,400.00 you can have mine. It has JM Racing suspension, bark busters, frame guards, radiator guards, and a few other goodies. For $5,400, I should expect that the dealer would atleast cuddle with you after a f*cking like that.
  4. NewBlue

    How often should I change my oil?

    I recommend that you purchase a zip-ty magnetic drain plug, it will always pull stuff out of the oil. I like the synthetics. They have higher film strengths and can take the heat that these monsters generate. I personally have taken a liking to Motul 300v. It is a pure ester based synthetic. It's pricey at $14.00 a liter, but I consider it cheap insurance. I think most people in here are changing the oil after: each race day, 100-200 miles, or after they see a signifigant color change in their oil. I would use your judgement as well. You will know if it was really dusty, if the bike had some excessing over-heating, or if you were hammering the dog sh*t out of it. You will also know if there is a chance that you got some water in the crank case. Clean your air filter often as well. I clean mine after each ride. I tend to over-maintain, so use your own judgement.
  5. Well Greg, it has only been out of the crate for about 2 months. I bought it as a non-current model. The metalic flakes looking like finely milled aluminum shavings or something.
  6. I, too, have the zip ty magnetic drain plug. It has had plenty of crud on it every time that I have changed the oil. This is the first engine that I have ever had that has had this many shavings and metalic pieces in the oil. I have a Yamaha Road Star and it has never had anything close to this in the oil changes. All of my other toys are made by Honda and they have had what I consider normal oil changes. I love the performance of the 02 wr426, but the the suspended metal in the oil does worry me. If I hadn't already put $1,000.00 or so worth of goodies on it; I would most likely trade it in due to my fears of engine failure. For right now though, I am going to wait and see. If the engine should fail, this will be my last Blue purchase.
  7. The biggest reason that I have been doing the changes so frequently is because of the metal pieces floating in the oil and the larger metal pieces in my oil filter. I agree that I do maintenance the sh*t out of my things, but I hardly ever have mechanical failure. I generally increase the oil change intervals after about the first 100 or so miles. The oil that is use is top notch and should last quite some time. It even smells good. Motul 300v seems to hold up well under the heat, but at $14.00 per liter it isn't cheap. P.S. I really appreciate the takes that you guys have on things.
  8. The oil that I use is somewhat transparent and you can see if there is anything suspended in it. Whenever I change the oil it looks as if there are millions of miniscule pieces of aluminum suspended in it. The engine performs well, and it seems to be in top notch shape. I do much more than the required amount of maintenance. I have 146 miles on the bike and it has had five oil changes, and the same amount of air filter cleanings. I don't neglect the bike, so whatever it is has me baffled. Any ideas?
  9. This is just such a curious product. I have had many people swear that it is the miracle coolant, and have had just as many have the same experience as myself. The difference may be that some of us have rciher/leaner running sleds. The engine ice didn't have much trouble in the wide open and quick running stuff. It did; however, boil like crazy when I was in the very slow technical stuff. I have had my sons out with me on the last few rides and they require me to stop and wait at times. The engine ice began boiling over every time that I would stop and wait for more than a few seconds. The prestone(EG blend) didn't boil over at all. Maybe its just me, maybe its just my bike; either way I will use the EG until someone has a better snake oil. NCMM seems to be very pleased with the Evan's product, if this current combination doesn't hold up; I will change over to it. Best Wishes
  10. I switched to engine ice to make my bike ready for the summer here in TX. I went out about a week ago and rode some woods trails and the bike boiled over on me 4 or 5 times. I flushed the cooling system out several times and installed the plain old Prestone antifreeze that states that it will work with all colors of antifreeze. It also claimed to protect aluminum radiators. I substituted several ounce of the antifreeze with Water Wetter. I rode all day yesterday in the woods and it was warmer outside than the previous outing. I could tell that the bike was getting kind of warm at times, but it didn't boil over once. Oh yeah, I bought the premixed antifreeze if anyone was curious about that.
  11. I spoke with someone from No-toil earlier, because my new uni airfilter were coming apart at the seams. The rep from no-toil said that the isoporpyl alcohol in the no-toil breaks down the adhesive in the uni filters. They will replace your uni filters that have come apart at the seams with a free no-toil filter if you mail them into them. Just thought you guys may have run into the same problem sooner or later. Their address is P.O. Box 3070, Yuba City, CA 95992. Good luck
  12. NewBlue

    Engine Ice isn't so cool in my wr

    I disagree with the ever putting anything acidic in a cooling system, especially one with aluminum in it. Vinegar is just the common name for acetic acid. It is used to clean coffee makers out because it reacts with calcium carbonate(which is basic) that is built up in the coffee maker. If you have demineralize or distilled water, there should be no calcium carbonate build up inside of the cooling system. I do think that I will try the aluminum heat reflectice tape on the radiator. Has anyone wrapped their header pipe with ceramic tape? I have heard different things about the ceramic tape, but may just give it a go and see what happens.
  13. NewBlue

    Chain Lubricant

    My two cents worth! WD-40 is fine for non o-ring or x-ring chains. Wd-40 and o-rings don't mix well with time. I have had reasonably good results with Motorex's enduro chain lube. It's in a redish colored can. It is clear and it has about the right mix of adhesion and removability. Give it a try and I believe that you will like it.
  14. NewBlue

    boyesen ap cover w/40lj

    The screws wouldn't line up properly, and I had a hard time getting them in the holes. I thought that maybe the holes weren't exactly drilled, or that the powder coating was in them. I didn't remove my carb to install the ap cover, it just loosened the screws that connected the carb to the air box and the engine and rotated it. I rode for the majority of last Friday, and I had two situations where it stalled. I am most impressed with this bike now. I may try the two cool stuff soon. I have used semi-synthetic to break it in , and full synthetic since the first oil change. The oil looked kind of funny to me, so I suspected some blow by. This last oil changed looked real good. As hot as these bikes get, it seems that using dino oil would be marginally irresponsible. Frequent synthetic oil changed seem like cheap insurance to me.
  15. I decided to give Engine Ice a try despite the warnings of NCMount. and Indy. I never boiled the bike over with the stock E/G in the radiators. I put engine ice in it and have boiled it over three or four times. I added some water wetter to it, and it still boiled over, just less often. Yesterday I flushed the engine ice out and put in the premixed prestone stuff that they claim works with any color anti-freeze and has alum. protectant in it. I added a few ounces of water wetter to it as well. I'll report back with my findings. When in doubt, it pays to listen to mountain men.
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