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sledmanMDH

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About sledmanMDH

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    Montana

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  1. sledmanMDH

    The KTM 200 Club

    I live in Missoula , run a Lectron on my 200 the last 5 years, played with needles and might be able to help. Fittment can be an issue on some bikes, I often machine the carb to fit specific models and thats a big help in taking the carb on and off to adjust jetting. The lectrons are not perfect, just way more perfect than the stock carbs, KTM has changed the Keihins that are stock on their two stroke bikes struggling to find better jetting. They have tried 36 38 40 mm Keihins without much success, good bikes just lazy and cheap on factory setup. So the carb your bike was shipped out with size wise and the Lectron size you want to install may not be real compatible ? But a little adjusting and things can be more compatible. If you live close to Missoula call me 406 240 1726
  2. sledmanMDH

    Scored piston minutes after new rebuild (Pics)

    If you work as a bike mechanic and take apart two stroke engines that have run for 10 minutes, not unusual to find some verticals lines in the piston and maybe some fine lines in the cyl. I see it all the time in snowmobile engines. Some engines come apart perfect , others light scuff marks ??. Four stroke pistons, othen look un used after 10 minutes run time. Your 10 minute run piston and rings will not be a problem. When you look at OEM two stroke cyl, seldom will you find them with as much chamfering as the after market guys do, the after market guys have to show the shade tree mechanics that we by golly champered the port. Reality is a new or redone honed to size YZ250 from stock or from a recoat aftemarket won't hang a ring in a port . Ports are too small and the ring can't go in there. Almost all scuffing at start up is HEAT HEAT HEAT, ABOUT 10 heat cycles is what I give a new sled, because the factory puposefully makes sloppy piston fit to allow for the general publics infatuation with hitting the first big long climb right out of the box thats with looooose factory fit. When I redo one of my KTM two stokes, Wiesco pistons, check ring gap, more than ten heat cycles before I leave for a ride, and the last KTM200 I redid, just piston and rings not rebore, I tore it down after 30 minutes of riding to reshape the exhuast valve, piston has as much or more light scuff marks in the graphite coating on the intake size ? There is lots and lots of good reading on this subject on line from guys who have paid the price, and especially from the big bore two stroke aftermarket guys who have to deal with their go and blow customers that just refuse to have breakin patience. Working on factory two strokes MX bikes in the 70's, we set them up loose on purpose so no brake in, let them rattle out of the box and put in new piston Every other week. It took the Japanese bike companies awhile to figure this out when they first came to the MX game. CZ 250 .008 clearance stock, converted DT-1 y Yamaha race bikes 3-.004 clearance, the Yamaha was a sure seizure first day in a 45 minute motor. Water cooling and Nickle plating have allowed less clearance with safety as long as things are clean and your ride it reasonable to start with.
  3. sledmanMDH

    Hot weather offroad helmets

    725 miles dirt bike ride through SW Montana a week ago, we stopped about three times a day, layed in a creek or river, filled our helmets with water and had air conditioned Yamaha's for the next 40 miles. 90 plus each after noon, good way to cook your brain. Air flow was pretty good through my FLY, large off road sunglasses instead of googles, slow tedious single track sections were blistering hot without the water douche.
  4. sledmanMDH

    TTR 225 Carb Problems

    I have worked on several yamaha 225 that had carb problems. But after puttting the carb in good condition, probem did no go away. The symptons: would start with choke but took lots of cranking, choke on choke off will rev up a little when warm, then die, then hard to start. Fouled looking plug and a new plug seemed to improve things for about on minute than back to poor idle and no power. The solution on several of these 225: take off your right side cover, pull out of its little box your cdi/ecu and trace the wires under the battery box to snap together connections on the left side of the battery. Clean then all very carefully. Pay particular attention to the black ground wire. If this wire is loose or corroded it will produce the symptons of carb problems, this black wire connection does not have good water proof connector on the older 225 and is particularlly susceptible to mud and water and then sitting for 6 month. All the onwers with this problem had just replaced their batteries and had loosed this black ground wire, even disconnected most 225's will start and runs like chit even with the black ground totallly disconnected. Runs like carb problems, but has wiring issues.
  5. sledmanMDH

    The KTM 200 Club

    A couple of the thoughts on posts from the last page I run for tires 450 x 18 Kenda 57p rear, 325 x 21 73p front. Here in Western Montana we ride single track endless rock, tree roots and baseball rock uphills. The dual sport looking tires glide over the rough rocks with far less side delfection than knobbies,no where near as busy, some young cross country racers proved this to me several years ago riding deserty type fast trails at Pipestone, was hard for me give up 50 years of running knobbies..... times change. Bigger tires fit great. Just can get over the knobby deal, I wouldn't go that big for spirited mx. I run 13 /52 for rocks and steep single track. Mid range detonation ( significantly different situation that PRE IGNITION...........don't confuse those ) on all the 200 motors, common if your jetting is no correct. A good three mile paved uphill road where you can ride 4 and 5 gear with steady throttle at about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle almost lugging the motor, DETONATION will be heard if its a problem, as a steady tick tick tick that can go away with throttle position. Race fuel can take it away, but you will BE too lean to achieve really good throttle response. I have found the same deto situaion with my stock 40 mm Keihin, 38 Keihin, 28mm Keihin and my 36 LECTRON. Its a product of the 200 head design and compression and you need to tune it out with adequate fuel flow. Hard to do with the Keihins and do a way with lots of midrange drool and sponge, but better to clean up the bike than replace pistons and bearings. Even when you don't deal with it, if its there and you ride back and forth through past this lean DETO, you are shortening the life of your piston and rod bearing...... oh well.
  6. sledmanMDH

    The KTM 200 Club

    Yes I concur with daddister's post. I can eliminate the sponge on my KTM 200, but running that clean, I am giving up the best bottom end pull and grunt. I have been bouncing back and forth between two different Lectron NEEDLES........if I recall the 3-2 and the xl.......don't quote me on that I haven't picked up a Lectron needle in a couple of months. xl runs super clean but gives up the nice can't kill it grunt. I have to run it almost two turns in richer and its still lean and clean. I run 60:1 CENEX full synthetic 2 stroke oil Lectron 38..........should have a 36 Boyseen Rad Valves Stealthy fly wheel stock pipe and muffler( tried three pipes but alway come back to stock ) mildly cleaned up ports and power valves 13/51 gearing Almost all slow single track trail. I like to fiddle with things, I have had two different Lectrons 36 and 38, 36 is a little better, but running the 38.......splitting hairs here. After the Lectron, total RACE TECH Gold Valve suspension rebuild with 2" lowering........wow.
  7. sledmanMDH

    The KTM 200 Club

    getting rid of he sponge with stock carb is not a realistic goal if you want the bike to pull in the bottom rpm ranges. some things that will help..............60:1 with a good synthetic oil, replace the stock KTM packing with new clean pipe insulation, RAD valves help, Lectron helps a lot, but with all those mods on my 200's, when pulling good in the bottom low mid, on tight trails, you have rich enough jetting that there always seems to be some drool.
  8. sledmanMDH

    TT-R 250/325 dual sport?

    So far for my riding, 14/48 is a more road , but ok easy single track gearing. Many of these bikes came 14/44 in Europe/Australia/Orient. Most riders found that to be road only gearing. AS you probably have found out 13/52 for trail riders is the gearing of choice. but its a little revy for those short pavement runs.
  9. sledmanMDH

    TT-R 250/325 dual sport?

    I am converting a 2005 TTr 250 to a dual sport bike. After riding around the back roads of Mt, ID and Wy, I came to the realization I didn't need the power of my dual sport converted KTM xcw, just expensive engine wear for no gain. So far on the TTR, lights, blinkers horn mirror brake lights, next is lowering the bike 2.5 inches with shock and fork spacers. Question is gearing suggestion. I am not building a I90 cruiser, but on occasion I have to ride interstate for 8 or ten miles, big majority of the rough back roads riding is lots of 25mph. I geared my KTM to high, ended up with 13/48 as nicest 20-40mph ride. What have you guys found works of the TTR 250. GAS tank.............so I would like to maybe have 3.5 gallons. On the KTM I just carried a 1.5 flat can and made some 200 miles stretch's with no issue. Suggestions for the TTR, I have rack panier set up almost done in AL, so I can carry gas.
  10. sledmanMDH

    The KTM 200 Club

    we have two 200 running lectrons. increased my overal range from 70 mile to well over 100 on several rides. these things require jetting adjustments for perfect performance, we have bounced back and forth between 3-2 needle and the xl needle. all run great, but perfect is better than great, so try different settings. lots of change can be made with the power jet ( as long as you have the dial power jet ), experiment with the power jet to get an idea of weather you need to use a leaner or richer setting, the power jet will effect fuel ratio from idle on up so its great stop and 1/4 turn and you will feel the difference.
  11. quite few threads on the SNOWEST snow bike forum on cutting your air box, I don't have any pictures o the box cut, but using a rotozip I cut all the flat bottom area out of the stock air box. The reason for this mod is to let the snow fall back out the bottom of the air box rather than pack in and make a great big ball of hard snow/ice. Your oil choices all will work. I run 0-30 synthetic, no issues. Make sure your engine runs good temperature, like over 170 as much as possible, otherwise your FI over fuels and runins your oil. We have canned the radiators on our bikes and run head exchangers to keep engine temps constant and avoid over heating in spring time riding. I have seen240 degress on my 500 in spring time riding with just radiators. We ride in Western MOntana and rarely if ever ride when its below 15 or 20 degrees so starting the bikes etc is not a problem. The biggest running issue is early season in handlebar deep powder all day, again air intake can plug, may ice you your throttle, cold and wet, make sure you buy the best riding gear you can afford, this taint a snowmobile, your are right out in the elements.
  12. sledmanMDH

    Experience with KTM lowering kit

    LOWERED a 2013 KTM 500 xcw yesterday. .780 spacer between the valving stack and the seal head, dropped the bike 2.100 inches. This was as far as you can reasonably go and still slide the forks up in the triple clamps and not have the wheel bottom out in the front fender. The bike had bar risers so sliding the forks up was an inexpensive way to go. The goal was to make a dual sport bike easier to get on and off with saddle bags and rack with sleeping bags etc. I pulled the plastic plug out of the kickstand, sawed 1.4 inches off the kickstand and reinserted the plastic foot with some epoxy . I have lowered the same vintage bikes as much as 4 inches but it for sure requires spacers in the front forks, 4 inches makes a great commuter bike and fast dirt road dual sport bike.
  13. sledmanMDH

    Experience with KTM lowering kit

    Unless you are humping a mx track and ride in the pro class you will not get your shock hot. Every try air in your tires, nitrogen is better, but air works ok. I work on shocks constantly, and hydraulic rams, same application, air will work. OK, next time you glide by a diesel shop with Nitrogen, have them hit your shock..............all good. Read up on why you need to pressurize a shock, then you won't be afraid of air. Air in a bladder/air behind a floating piston, WAY DIFFERENT THAN AIR IN THE SHOCK BODY.
  14. sledmanMDH

    Experience with KTM lowering kit

    Lowering your KTM. 1. if you are image conscious then it could hurt your ego and lower your self esteem. 2. if you are performance conscious then it can be the best mod for your bike. 3. after lowering the seat height on Ktm'S, kAW, YAM, everyone riding them has the same 1st reaction, wow does it handle better on tight fast trails. 4. If you regularly hit triples at 60 mph plus then proceed with caution and lower about 1/2" at a time. If you are not a household name in the DIRT magazines, then your riding skills can improve with a bike setup for who you are, how tall you are and what terrain you ride. DONOT shave your seat, bad idea, why abuse your body more..........just don't go there. 5. A lot of ways to lower, best is internal shock spacer and fork spacers, you need new shock oil anyway, you just need some nitrogen when you are done, easier than a top end job for sure. No nitrogen in your town, not to worry, 99% of the riders could not tell the difference between 175psi air or 175psi nitrogen.
  15. My riding partner has same year bike, same big bore ( likely ), two years of throttle abuse with a TS 120 kit, all good, no issues, he has FI control box on it made by the guys in Bozeman, lots of fooling around and sometimes to lean and starts hard, left with near stock fuel management, works great. I run same year 500, they run near identical in steep climbs, his feel snotty er but when run side by side, very little difference. I have bottom cut out of stock air box, no problems. He was running the stock TS snorkle, early season powder we had to stop and clean his snorkle, ditto for my buds kx450 with the same setup.............can't take prolonged deep powder. ', stock air box with bottom cut out seems to work real well in extreme over the head powder. Just set the valves on mine today, very nice easy procedure, watch the ROCKY MTN CYCLE video for setting the valves on this bike, odd but easy to do.
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