hungrycamel

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About hungrycamel

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  1. Changing the seals didn't fix the problem unfortunately. Still working to solve it.
  2. I have a '02 YZ426F that I've plated with lights, but everything is running off of a small 12v battery that only manages the headlight/tailight for a few hours before it dies. I want to ride during the night for more than an hour or so and not have to worry about power. I've read quite a bit about this but am still confused about my particular situation. The whole WR flywheel/stator swap isn't worth it for me at about $500, but I found this 35-watt lighting stator for my bike: http://www.rickystator.com/product/stators/yamaha/yamaha-yz426f-35-watt-lighting-stator-assembly-all-years My question is this: that comes with one yellow lighting lead that should output AC, correct? I want to run a 20W LED bulb that I currently have, so I want to convert to DC. I also want a battery so I can stop the bike and have lights. My taillight is LED and uses a watt or less. I want to hook this up: https://www.trailtech.net/7004-rr150 This diagram shows how to wire it. Would it work if I took the one yellow lead from that stator, spliced it into the two yellow leads coming from the regulator, and wired everything else as the diagram suggests? Or do I need to "float the ground" as many have talked about? All I want is minimal, steady headlight and taillight lighting, so any other solutions are welcome.
  3. Don't like to revive a thread, but I think it's worth it to anyone who might find it later. Although the above solution honestly seemed to work for a while, as it got colder, the smoke returned, became far heavier, and the duration increased. Leaving school meant I left a cloud of grayish smoke in the parking lot that hung around for a bit. Always cleared up in about a minute though. Anyway, I decided on valve stem seals after further research - bought the seals, head gasket, and spring compressor. I'll change them as soon as possible and try to update this for future readers.
  4. Well, turns out I owe you one for that tip... Took out the air box today and sure enough, the connecting boot to the carb was coated liberally in engine oil, and the box itself had some nasty pooling in the bottom. The bottom edge of the filter was soaked with a mix of engine oil and air filter oil as well. In the process of cleaning them up now; then I'll drain some oil because I definitely overfilled it on the last change, and that's what I assume was causing excessive buildup through the breather.
  5. Definitely getting the jet kit now, haha! I initially found the decel popping pretty cool, until I started getting headaches hearing mini explosions behind me... After I order new rear wheel bearings and a replacement bearing chain roller (can't stand the stock one rattling) and get those in, jet kit is up next. I'm hesitant to start messing with jetting because I've had bad luck with carburetors in general so far, but I think it'll be worth it. Thanks guys.
  6. Haven't gotten around to checking the air box recently, but I'll try to take a look soon. Today was around 40F in the morning, and there was a lot more than usual on warm up. Large cloud of smoke accumulated in my driveway because there was little wind. Seems to be worse with lower temperatures.
  7. Well, adjusting the screw didn't solve the problem, but did improve it somewhat. It seems I have to go too many turns out (>3) to get where I need it. Also, there is a really bad popping on decel which was also helped somewhat by the screw adjustment. Thinking about going for a bigger pilot jet at least, and eventually considering full jet kit and airbox mods as zig suggested.
  8. What should the exhaust smell like...? I haven't noticed any oil consumption, but I may have slightly overfilled it on the last change; could that have something to do with it? The odometer broke when I hit a tree a while ago, and it read 11,000; my GPS speedometer app that I tried to use on every ride shows ~3,000, so I'd say the bike is approaching around 15-17K miles. And plugeye, why check for oil in the box? Obviously there's a bit of air filter oil smudged on the bottom - is that what you meant?
  9. Ah, no I haven't... I remember drilling that plug out, but I never actually adjusted it :/ I'll try that today and report back, thanks!
  10. I put an FMF Powercore 4 pipe on my '01 650 a while back, and have only shimmed the needle with a washer to compensate. From what I understand, those pipes make the bike run leaner; the shimming made a noticeable difference at 3/4-WOT, confirming that partially. The airbox and carb are otherwise stock. My problem is, as the cold weather is starting (at least in the mornings), full choke is barely enough to maintain idle for the bike to warm up. It'll catch easy and stumble around really low RPMs for a minute, and sometimes it will just die. I've never had to restart it more than twice however. My other issue that occurred during the summer is stalling from idle when opening the throttle. For example, I was in bumper-to-bumper coasting in 1st with the clutch pulled at ~5MPH and the bike idling fine. I opened the throttle normally and starting slipping clutch to accelerate and the bike snapped to a halt and the engine died, nearly tossing me over the bars and brake-checking the person behind me. Sometimes blipping the throttle at lights out of habit will do the same thing - engine 'snaps' right off, and I can hear the starter motor clutch(?) make that kickback wind noise. My theory is that the pilot jet at least is far too lean - would getting a larger one fix that? Or should I just go with a new jet kit altogether to match the pipe?
  11. My '01 DR650SE has recently been blowing white smoke out the exhaust (FMF Powercore 4 btw, if relevant). It only does this for the first minute or two of warm-up, and I noticed it first when the recent cold, early-fall mornings started and the bike has dew covering the seat (I have to keep it on the driveway sometimes.) Blipping the throttle shoots out a big puff of the stuff, but as I said, only for the first minute or two. Once idling normally, it's absent. From what I've read, it could just be condensation, but I'd like some further confirmation to put my mind at ease. Some people were saying things about leaky valve seals letting oil in the cylinder while resting... So, does this sound like harmless condensation? The smoke dissipates fairly quickly as well, but hangs around long enough to be noticeable.
  12. My buddy said his bike was off, so I rode it and it seemed perfect until I got on the road (It's street equipped) and WOT in first - horrible stripping/grinding sound and loss of acceleration. Upshifted and rode to a parking lot, and tested it out; seems to only do this under hard throttle in first gear. I was able to slip the clutch hard in second and wheelie fine. WOT in third and low speed so it was really stressed, and no issues. No noticeable slipping in other gears, so do I pretty much have this narrowed down to a bad first gear in the tranny? New assemblies are $80, and I'm no professional, but I have some successful experience - a couple top ends, a bottom end swap, kick start shaft replacement, etc. How hard is replacing the transmission myself?
  13. Well I messed with it more today and got the main rattles to quiet down substantially by tweaking the valves again. It's running about how it used to now except for a slightly different and quieter noise, not sure how to describe it... What you're talking about, is that tested by grabbing the connecting rod and checking for play? If so, which direction(s) of free play indicate damage?
  14. So, it may have been the decomp because I spun it around until I felt no pressure on it anymore. Messed with the valve clearance again and started it up - bike still makes a racket but the power is definitely back. I still don't know what's making the chattering noise because those valves are pretty tight...
  15. It very obviously has far less power than before. As for the history, I know very little. It was my friends who i bought it from, he had no title or any maintenance history. It was essentially a learner bike for me and my friends. As for the cam chain, it has a manual tensioner, and I think I adjusted it well enough. I tightened the adjuster until I got some resistance. I'm very confident in the timing otherwise. The main thing I'm so concerned with is how drastic the power loss is; I feel like it's something bigger I'm missing. I recently read some similar threads and found something mentioning the decompressor, that would result in very poor power, right? I didn't pay much attention to it on reassembly, so I'll take a look.