hungrycamel

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About hungrycamel

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    Michigan

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  1. My buddy's '98 had this happen and it caused the tranny shaft to shear, causing first and second gear to grind. I rebuilt the entire motor and it ran fine for months until last night we noticed a rattle, and found the idler gear missing three teeth, two of which are adjacent so it slips when kicking. Buying another idler gear, but is there any fix for this other than treating the gear as a wear item and replacing?
  2. Thanks, I did look into that thoroughly only to be talked out of it by my local shop based on their experience with them. I decided to buy the only oversize piston I could find on eBay because even the shop couldn't find anything. I'll have the shop bore my cylinder .020" over once I get the piston and slap it all together.
  3. Huh, interesting... Since mine blew up from obviously skipping timing, rocker arms couldn't cause that. So I guess either the cam chain was worn but the rocker arms were responsible for the noise, or my rockers are fine and the chain was the noise. I guess I'll only know when I get the cylinder serviced and the bike back together. Definitely will put in a new cam chain before even trying to run it, so if it still makes the noise, I'll know what to replace next. Thanks a lot for the tip
  4. Before it blew up, no. I hadn't noticed any loss however. I do however have 0 compression now haha.
  5. My piston wrist pin has no bearing with the rod - just spins on a film of oil I guess. I also thought about cam chain guides being worn out, but they didn't look bad as far as I could tell. I did notice that tightening the manual chain tensioner made no difference to the sound, which lead me to believe the chain was stretched past the point of help by the tensioner.
  6. Fix it ASAP. My bike ran for a few months in snow riding and the issue was always present, then one day my buddy was riding it up a hill and it was stalling when clutch engaged. I started it and revved it up to try and it clunked and shut off. Turns out the intake valve destroyed the piston; hammered the crap out of it and shattered the rings and piston skirt. Dented cylinder and pieces are now in the case, but the valve itself is fine. I assume timing jumped due to stretched cam chain, hence the rattling. I recommend a new cam chain, I'll be installing one during my complete rebuild.
  7. Contacted them twice through email, got a response back, but it hardly answered my question. Didn't receive a message back when I repeated the question either time. I ordered it anyway with a TrailTech reg/rec, and I plan on running a ground wire through the bike (floating the reg/rec side instead of the stator side) as to avoid voiding my 1-year warranty on the stator. Will update when I get them installed.
  8. I have a 1987 DR200 dirt bike with a taillight, headlight, and no regulator. The headlight bulb is 25 watts, the tail 5 watts. The system is 6 volts, AC, and no battery. As it stands, the wires are routed like this: live wire from stator through the headlight, to the taillight, and then to ground (in series). The "ground" is about 5 wires meeting in a common splice. My lights stopped working so I replaced the bulbs, and they immediately blew upon startup. I rode it for months without lights and started finally working on them tonight. Here's what happens: If I crank it with the headlight installed and the taillight installed, the taillight ONLY will flash. If I start it fully, the taillight blows instantly, and the headlight never flashes. If I short out the two leads heading to the taillight, the headlight only will flash when cranking. I cannot get them both to light under any circumstances. Update: I just now wired them separately from the live wire to ground (in parallel). This causes both to work at idle, but revving past idle made them brighten, flicker, and blow. Update 2: Okay, I think the PO messed up. Apparently the stator and the rest have separate circuits? There are two lighting wires coming from the stator; I had the black going to the ground splice and the live wire used as described. I just now separated the black wire and made this circuit (no taillight because I blew my last one): stator live > headlight > shorted taillight > stator black. The headlight worked fine and let me rev it sky high without blowing. I'll order a tail bulb and see what happens. Can someone explain to me why this happens even if I kinda solved my own problem?
  9. Can anyone tell me with confidence that the 1987 DR200 shares the same engine case with a DR125 of the same year? Parts sites are saying they're the same part, but I was just wondering if anyone could confirm
  10. Changing the seals didn't fix the problem unfortunately. Still working to solve it.
  11. I have a '02 YZ426F that I've plated with lights, but everything is running off of a small 12v battery that only manages the headlight/tailight for a few hours before it dies. I want to ride during the night for more than an hour or so and not have to worry about power. I've read quite a bit about this but am still confused about my particular situation. The whole WR flywheel/stator swap isn't worth it for me at about $500, but I found this 35-watt lighting stator for my bike: http://www.rickystator.com/product/stators/yamaha/yamaha-yz426f-35-watt-lighting-stator-assembly-all-years My question is this: that comes with one yellow lighting lead that should output AC, correct? I want to run a 20W LED bulb that I currently have, so I want to convert to DC. I also want a battery so I can stop the bike and have lights. My taillight is LED and uses a watt or less. I want to hook this up: https://www.trailtech.net/7004-rr150 This diagram shows how to wire it. Would it work if I took the one yellow lead from that stator, spliced it into the two yellow leads coming from the regulator, and wired everything else as the diagram suggests? Or do I need to "float the ground" as many have talked about? All I want is minimal, steady headlight and taillight lighting, so any other solutions are welcome.
  12. Don't like to revive a thread, but I think it's worth it to anyone who might find it later. Although the above solution honestly seemed to work for a while, as it got colder, the smoke returned, became far heavier, and the duration increased. Leaving school meant I left a cloud of grayish smoke in the parking lot that hung around for a bit. Always cleared up in about a minute though. Anyway, I decided on valve stem seals after further research - bought the seals, head gasket, and spring compressor. I'll change them as soon as possible and try to update this for future readers.
  13. Well, turns out I owe you one for that tip... Took out the air box today and sure enough, the connecting boot to the carb was coated liberally in engine oil, and the box itself had some nasty pooling in the bottom. The bottom edge of the filter was soaked with a mix of engine oil and air filter oil as well. In the process of cleaning them up now; then I'll drain some oil because I definitely overfilled it on the last change, and that's what I assume was causing excessive buildup through the breather.
  14. Definitely getting the jet kit now, haha! I initially found the decel popping pretty cool, until I started getting headaches hearing mini explosions behind me... After I order new rear wheel bearings and a replacement bearing chain roller (can't stand the stock one rattling) and get those in, jet kit is up next. I'm hesitant to start messing with jetting because I've had bad luck with carburetors in general so far, but I think it'll be worth it. Thanks guys.
  15. Haven't gotten around to checking the air box recently, but I'll try to take a look soon. Today was around 40F in the morning, and there was a lot more than usual on warm up. Large cloud of smoke accumulated in my driveway because there was little wind. Seems to be worse with lower temperatures.