drzvfr

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About drzvfr

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    Virginia
  1. I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something. Required Tools: Set of Allen wrenches #3 Phillips screwdriver small flat head screwdriver 8 & 10 mm sockets 13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate) snap ring pliers gasket scraper compressed air Required Parts: New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00 Tube or can of RTV sealant Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil) 1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way. 2. Remove right side radiator cover. 3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic). 4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike. 5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off. 6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way. 7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below. 8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily. 9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here: 10. Remove the plastic gear. 11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here: 12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here: 13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover. 14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up. 15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect): 16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out. 17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13. 18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike. 19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly. 20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on. 21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt. 22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover. 23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant. 24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp. 25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw. 26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike. 27. You are done, go ride!
  2. Uh, the best way to fix it is to read and follow the instructions (the 1st post to this thread) and buy the following items: Tube or can of RTV sealant clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00 In other words no, you shouldn't need a new water pump and/or impeller
  3. Buy it now for $219! I think I did good getting mine for $50 and locally too.
  4. Bronco, I just picked up a used newer shock from a newer model S (2006 I think) to replace the 01 stock S shock on my bike. The bike it came off of had about 3K miles. I have the appropriate weight race-tech spring on the old shock for my size and can easily swap it out to the newer shock but my question is should I have my newer shock serviced first? If so, what should be done to it and is there a recommendation for a place to do this? TIA
  5. I'll come, got a bike I can use? http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
  6. Nice post, now you only need a better place to post your pics as they can't been seen anymore as Photobucket has put a bandwidth cap on them.
  7. Is your reservoir still full? If so I wouldn't bother with it until you see coolant leaking from the weep hole. My Honda VFR has the smell of coolant if I leave it sit for a month or so and then mysteriously goes away after a few rides. I've never had to fill the reservoir so I ride it!
  8. Actually I could give you my SSN. Without other information about me you can't do anything with it. Same goes for your tag number you drive down the street with your tag displayed on the make and model of your car/bike/truck every day! Have you ever heard of this so called coping of tags every happening???? I never have and it could just as easily of happened to someone driving down the road. I would guess your more likely to win a large lottery then to have this happen. Its like people not wanting to buy stuff over the Internet with their CC number, its not warranted.
  9. I still think its total paranoia and SUPER unlikely to EVER happen but if it makes y'all feel better then go for it!
  10. I spent $200 for the work. At the end though, I think he wanted more as it took more time then he expected: Chong's Upholstery 14775 Build America Dr Woodbridge, VA 22191 (703) 490-6900
  11. That's what I did. Got a torn stock seat off Ebay for $20 and took it to an upholstery shop. Check out my couch: My butt never gets sore anymore
  12. I didn't need longer lines with mine. Just reroute them a bit and they fit just fine.
  13. I gotta know, why are people so paranoid to show their license plate numbers? How is showing it on this forum any different then driving down the street?
  14. The pump assembly has been updated. I assume Suzuki realized there was an issue. Some people have not been able to stop the leak with the above fix so replacing the whole assembly should do it. In my situation being the cheap bastard I am, I would try the above fix and then only replace the entire assembly if it still leaked. I fixed mine two years ago and its still OK.
  15. Yes, the gasket should be flush. Sounds like you have it right.