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About ItsJuniorJ

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    United Arab Emirates

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  1. ItsJuniorJ

    how is your 03/04 250 clutch cable routed?

    I’ll try and get a photo of mine for you tomorrow.
  2. Be sure to check that the male and female sides of the gears all mesh. If you’ve installed any of the gears the wrong way around (if removed from the shafts during your rebuild), then the drum and forks won’t be able to function correctly due to lack of allowed travel. I’d pull the whole transmission out again, including the removal of gears from shafts, and reinstall everything again. That’s how everything should line up on a ‘97.
  3. ItsJuniorJ

    Stock CC

    I’m currently working on solid advice and information from another thread I started, discussing engine knock on my 2006 KX250. Since discovering the knock, I’ve adjusted the air gap to 0.99mm (0.039”), and have been gradually increasing the mid-range fuel flow (low-mid RPM is when my bike knocks), to help irradiate the issue. Today I’ve had the least noticeable amount of engine knock since I realised it was even occurring. However, looking into this issue further I’ve found many KX owners speaking about cylinder head modification and checking that the bike is at “stock CC”. The cylinder head modification and squish I’ve learned enough on. So I’d like to know more about checking “stock CC” of the engine? Any help/advice on this would be most appreciated!
  4. ItsJuniorJ

    Cylinder Head

    Got the head and cams in. It’s all running. I need to source an aftermarket exhaust to compliment the increased flow. Thank you for the info! It’s worked out great!
  5. ItsJuniorJ

    2006 KX250 Shock

    The bladder is being pressured to 165psi, as per the Race Tech setup which Mike (Race Tech Guy) sent through, as part of my gold valve setup. With regard to oil leaking, gas leaking, or any kind of leak for that matter- I’ll obviously run the shock with the repairs it’s seen. If the shock goes more than 4 rides without losing “pressure”, then I’m ready to call it “fixed”. If it goes again, then there will be an issue directly related to what you guys are describing here now obviously.
  6. ItsJuniorJ

    2006 KX250 Shock

    I appreciate the input a lot! There wasn’t oil loss, but there was air cavitation occurring in the oil. The bladder is KYB original, which kits I started using based on your previous advice actually. It’s been noted that the coating on the inside of the shock seal bushing is worn slightly, so I’ve sourced that part separately with KYB, and that will see the shock through to its next full service. The shop have been great, and said to bring the shock back once the bushing arrives, so they can fit that and recheck their work. My intervals are Race Tech, so what you’ve noted about use of other model shocks- them coming with different internals won’t be an issue.
  7. ItsJuniorJ

    2006 KX250 Shock

    The feelings were bitter sweet when the shop informed me about what they found. What I was most upset about of course, is that I’d bought 3 rebuild kits in close succession, which the total value of, would have covered the cost for a whole replacement used shock. Needless to say, this diagnosis was by a different shop and specialist- who genuinely know suspensions. They’re my new go-to for this work from now on. I’m busy servicing the linkage and swing-arm bearings now, so the rear is as plush as it can be.
  8. ItsJuniorJ

    2006 KX250 Shock

    Found the cause of my shock losing “pressure”. There was the smallest of marks on the shaft, which was allowing air to get into the oil side of the assembly, each time it moved past the seals. The shaft has been swapped out for one from a donor 250F shock, but I don’t know which year. We just know the clevis and shaft measured up equal, and it has the rebound adjuster- so I finally have an “air tight” shock again.
  9. ItsJuniorJ

    ‘06 KX250 Knocking

    I actually bought this as an online PDF file Lol Part No.99924-1298-04 I didn’t realise it was an ‘03-‘05 manual until now, when you’ve asked for these details! Hahaha
  10. ItsJuniorJ

    ‘06 KX250 Kick Start Lever

    Does anyone know what options we have for replacement KX250 kick start levers? I’ve looked online and can only seem to find original levers, which isn’t a problem- but if there’s aftermarket or other KX model options, it would be nice to have the choice. Thanks in advance!
  11. ItsJuniorJ

    ‘06 KX250 Knocking

    No idea, but it is correct to my bike. As long as I pay attention to where it clearly states certain unique fitment differences from the 125 to 250.
  12. ItsJuniorJ

    ‘06 KX250 Knocking

    This is the one. A “fourth edition”, apparently. I can’t find the part number on it?
  13. ItsJuniorJ

    ‘06 KX250 Knocking

    The manual I have is a KX125/KX250 shared manual for the ‘06-‘08 models. It’s original Kawasaki material though!
  14. ItsJuniorJ

    ‘06 KX250 Knocking

    Ok, so the manual shows a bearing for only the KX125, and not the KX250. This may be where I’ve messed up! Where I found this steel ball may be from the parts of a CR125 I’m working on. This would also explain why the parts fiche doesn’t show a ball being available for my bike.
  15. ItsJuniorJ

    ‘06 KX250 Knocking

    Lol I’m starting to think I should move to save money on re-plating! Ok, another issue here: Before opening the bike up, my clutch was perfect. After reassembling, I have no clutch function. I’ve attached a photo of the gap between the pressure and friction plate, which is approximately the same size of the ball bearing which sits between the push rod its cap. I’ve removed the entire clutch assembly to check all washers etc are in place, according to the OEM diagrams, and nothing is missing. In fact, this diagram doesn’t show a ball bearing, but the manual does? I even removed the stator to remove and check the shaft which the cable and push rod work with. That part is perfectly functional and damage free as well. I’m lost for what else to check for here?